This little doily is all about leaves. Eight textured leaves fan out from a tiny eight-window flower, with airy chain mesh between them. A ring of pointed picot scallops finishes the edge. It is made in a single solid emerald green, so the stitch texture does the decorating.
The finished doily measures about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) across. It works as a coaster, a jar topper, a small table accent, or a frameable piece of lace. The style is classic thread lace with a fresh, botanical feel.
This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
You work the doily in the round as one single piece. Three rounds make the center flower. The fourth round adds the eight leaves, each built on a chain and worked down one side and up the other. Round 5 ties the leaf tips together with mesh. Rounds 6 and 7 form the border: one round of chain loops and one round of pointed picot scallops.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) diameter after blocking
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Super fine (#1), fingering-weight mercerized cotton
- Hook: 2.5 mm (US B/1 or C/2, depending on brand)
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: Single round motif, no joining
- Piece size: 6.5 in (16.5 cm)
- Size before border (after Round 5): 5 in (12.7 cm)
- Border depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm) on each side, adding 1.5 in (3.8 cm) to the diameter
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth, tightly plied, mercerized cotton in fingering weight. Mercerized cotton shows the leaf veins clearly and blocks crisply. Avoid fuzzy or loosely spun fibers, because they blur the lace.
- Emerald green: 20 g, about 68 m (74 yd)
The doily itself uses about 12 g. The quantity above includes a margin for your gauge swatch and weaving in ends.
Tools:
- 2.5 mm crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Locking stitch marker
- Blocking mat or folded towel
- Rust-proof pins
- Spray bottle with clean water
- Ruler or tape measure
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
Special stitches:
- Picot: Ch 3, then sl st into the stitch or chain named in the instructions.
- Leaf: Ch 11. Side 1 works back toward the base, through the back bumps of the chain. Skip the first ch from the hook (this is the tip ch). Then work sl st in the next ch, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, tr in next 2, dc in next, hdc in next, and sc in the last ch: 10 sts. Sl st into the base stitch on the doily. Side 2 works up the free loops of the same chain, from base to tip: sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st, for 10 sts. Then ch 3 and sl st into the skipped tip ch to make the tip point. Each Leaf has 20 sts plus a tip point. The chain between the two sides stands up as a raised center vein.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge isn’t critical for a doily, but it decides the final size. Work Rounds 1–3 first as your test piece and measure the flower flat, without stretching.
- After Round 1: about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) across
- After Round 3: 2 in (5.1 cm) across
- One Leaf chain (11 ch): about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long
- After Round 4 (leaf tip to leaf tip): 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
- After Round 5: 5 in (12.7 cm)
- After Round 6: 5.75 in (14.6 cm)
- After Round 7 (blocked): 6.5 in (16.5 cm)
If the flower is bigger than 2 in (5.1 cm): go down to a 2.25 mm hook, or tighten your chains.
If it’s smaller: go up to a 2.75 mm hook.
Chains are the most common source of size trouble in lace. Keep them the same height as your sc, not tight little knots.
Pattern
Round 1 (center ring)
Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as the first dc). Work 15 dc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and sl st into the top of the beginning ch-3.
Stitch count: 16 dc.
Round 2 (eight windows)
Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st, ch 2. Dc in next 2 sts, ch 2. Rep from * 6 more times. Sl st into the top of the beginning ch-3.
Stitch count: 16 dc (1 dc in each existing st) plus 8 ch-2 sps. The ch-2 sps form the 8 small windows of the center ring.
Round 3 (petal flower)
Sl st into the first ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then 4 dc in the same sp. Sc in the gap between the next 2 dc. 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in the gap between the next 2 dc. Rep from * 6 more times. Sl st into the top of the beginning ch-3.
Stitch count: (8 sps × 5 dc = 40 dc) + 8 sc = 48 sts, making 8 rounded petals.
Checkpoint: the flower measures 2 in (5.1 cm) across.
Round 4 (leaves)
Sl st into the next 2 dc, so you are in the 3rd (center) dc of the first petal. This dc is the base of Leaf 1.
Work 1 Leaf from this dc. You finish at the tip point of the Leaf. Ch 9, then sc into the center (3rd) dc of the next petal. This sc is the base of the next Leaf. Rep from * 7 more times. On the last repeat, the ch-9 ends with a sl st into the base of Leaf 1 instead of an sc. Fasten off.
Count check: 8 Leaves (20 sts plus a tip point each) and 8 ch-9 strands. Each strand runs at an angle from one leaf tip down to the base of the next Leaf, filling the wedge between them.
Lay the piece flat. Each Leaf should point straight outward, like a spoke. Checkpoint: the distance from leaf tip to opposite leaf tip is 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
Round 5 (mesh)
Join the thread with a sl st in the ch-3 tip point of any Leaf. Ch 1, then sc in the same tip point.
Ch 6, sc in the 5th (center) ch of the next ch-9 strand. Ch 6, sc in the tip point of the next Leaf. Rep from * 7 more times. On the last repeat, skip the final sc and sl st into the first sc instead.
Stitch count: 16 sc and 16 ch-6 loops (2 loops per leaf wedge).
Checkpoint: 5 in (12.7 cm) across. This is your size before the border.
Border
Border gauge: each ch-8 loop in Round 6 should span about 1 in (2.5 cm) along the edge. If the loops pull the leaves out of shape, add 1 ch per loop. If they ruffle, take 1 ch away. Make sure the loops stay at 16 either way.
Round 6 (chain loops)
Sl st into the first 3 ch of the next ch-6 loop, so you reach its center. Ch 1, then sc in the same loop.
Ch 8, sc in the next ch-6 loop. Rep from * 14 more times. Ch 8 and sl st into the first sc.
Stitch count: 16 sc and 16 ch-8 loops. There is 1 new loop for every loop of Round 5, so the round has exactly 16 sections.
Checkpoint: 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
Round 7 (pointed picot scallops)
Sl st into the first ch-8 loop. In the ch-8 loop, work 2 sc, hdc, and 2 dc. Ch 4, then sl st into the 4th ch from the hook to make a pointed picot. In the same loop, work 2 dc, hdc, and 2 sc. Rep from * in each ch-8 loop around (16 loops). Sl st into the first sc. Fasten off.
Stitch count: (16 loops × 10 sts = 160 sts) + 16 picots, making 16 pointed scallops.
Why the math works: Round 5 has 2 loops per leaf wedge, so 8 wedges give 16 loops. Round 6 copies those 16 sections. Round 7 puts 1 scallop on each loop, so you get 16 points spaced evenly: one lines up with each leaf and one with each gap. Each scallop gets 10 sts over a ch-8 loop. That is just enough to fill the loop smoothly without cupping, and the picot adds the point. Round 6 adds about 0.375 in (1 cm) on each side and Round 7 about the same. Together they make the 0.75 in (1.9 cm) border on each side, which takes the doily from 5 in (12.7 cm) to 6.5 in (16.5 cm).
Weave in all ends securely along the backs of the sts. Change direction at least once so the ends stay hidden in the lace.
Final Blocking
- Soak the doily in cool water for 10 minutes, then gently press out the water. Don’t wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove the extra water.
- Lay it face up on a blocking mat. Mark a 6.5 in (16.5 cm) circle with pins or a drawn template.
- Pin the center flower flat first. Check that the 8 windows are open and even.
- Pin the tip point of each Leaf straight out, keeping all 8 the same distance from the center.
- Pin each of the 16 picot points to the edge of the circle.
- Shape each Leaf with your fingers so the center vein sits straight and the sides lie flat.
- Spritz lightly, then let it dry completely, usually 6–12 hours.
- Unpin and measure. It should be 6.5 in (16.5 cm) across.
For a crisper finish, spray lightly with starch before it dries.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Round 2 has 8 even windows.
- Round 3 has 8 petals with 5 dc each.
- All 8 Leaves are the same length, about 1.25 in (3.2 cm).
- Each Leaf has a clear center vein and a tip point.
- Round 5 has 16 ch-6 loops.
- Round 6 has 16 ch-8 loops.
- Round 7 has 16 pointed scallops with picots.
- The doily lies flat without ruffles or cupping.
- The diameter is 6.5 in (16.5 cm) after blocking.
- All ends are woven in and hidden.
Troubleshooting
The center cups up: Your Round 1 dc may be too tight, or the magic ring wasn’t fully closed. Try a slightly looser tension in Rounds 1–3.
The Leaves curl or twist: Make sure Side 1 goes through the back bumps of the chain and Side 2 goes through the free loops. Blocking firmly will also straighten them.
The Leaves come out different lengths: Count exactly 11 ch for every Leaf, and keep your chain tension the same each time.
The edge ruffles: Your ch-8 loops in Round 6 are too long for your tension. Use ch 7 instead.
The edge pulls in or the doily cups: Your loops are too short. Use ch 9 in Round 6 or ch 7 in Round 5.
The picots look floppy: Pull each sl st snug, and pin the picots to a point while blocking.
The ch-9 strands sag in Round 4: That’s normal at this stage. Round 5 anchors their centers and pulls them into shape.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and lay flat to dry. Re-block and lightly starch as needed to restore the crisp leaf shape.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple to follow:
- The center flower measures 2 in (5.1 cm).
- The leaves bring it to 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
- The mesh brings it to 5 in (12.7 cm).
- The two border rounds add 0.75 in (1.9 cm) on each side, for a finished 6.5 in (16.5 cm) doily.
Check each stage as you go, and the final blocked size will look after itself. Enjoy watching the leaves appear one by one around the little flower.
Happy crocheting!