The Linen Loop holder is a calm, natural bathroom piece. It is one long panel with three snug pockets, each holding a spare toilet roll, and it hangs from a smooth wooden ring. Hang it on a hook beside the sink or behind the door and your spare rolls are tidy and easy to reach.
The holder uses a single natural beige cotton. The dense half double crochet fabric looks like woven linen and holds its shape well. The pockets have a crisp ridge at the base and a firm single crochet rim, so they stay round and upright even when empty.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. After the border, the panel measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide and 22.25 in (56.5 cm) long, plus a 3 in (7.6 cm) wooden ring. Each pocket fits a standard roll up to about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.
You’ll make one back panel in rows, shape the top into a neck, and gather the neck onto the ring. Then you’ll make three pockets in the round, sew them to the panel at measured rows, and finish with one round of single crochet edging.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5.5 in x 22.25 in (14.0 cm x 56.5 cm), plus the ring
- Skill level: Easy / Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Aran / heavy worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 4 (1 back panel + 3 pockets)
- Layout: 3 pockets stacked in one vertical column on the panel
- Panel before border: 5 in x 22 in (12.7 cm x 55.9 cm)
- Pocket size: base 4.8 in (12.2 cm) across, wall about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each long side and the bottom edge
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth, firm cotton or cotton blend in aran weight, about 170 m per 100 g. Cotton holds shape better than acrylic and copes with bathroom humidity. Avoid fluffy or very stretchy yarns, or the pockets will sag.
- Natural beige: 200 g (about 340 m). The holder itself uses about 135 g (about 230 m): roughly 60 g for the panel and 25 g per pocket.
These quantities include a margin for your gauge swatch, sewing tails, and small tension differences.
Tools:
- 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
- Tapestry needle
- 6 locking stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
- Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
- A toilet roll, for checking fit and shaping the pockets
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- RS – right side
- ( ) x10 – repeat the bracketed steps 10 times
Special stitches:
- hdc2tog: Yarn over, insert hook in next st, pull up a loop. Yarn over, insert hook in following st, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.
- Ring sc: Hold the ring just above the work. Insert the hook from front to back through the center of the ring, then into the next st. Yarn over and pull the loop back through the st and the ring. Yarn over and pull through both loops. This stitch locks the fabric around the ring.
Note: In rows and rounds, the turning or starting ch-2 does not count as a stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 hdc and 10 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in hdc rows. Each hdc row is 0.4 in (1.0 cm) tall, and every 4 hdc span 1 in (2.5 cm).
Test one piece first. Make one pocket before you start the panel. It is small, works as a real gauge swatch, and lets you check fit with an actual roll.
Checkpoints:
- Pocket, after Rnd 6: the flat base is 4.8 in (12.2 cm) across.
- Pocket, after Rnd 15: the wall is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall and a roll slides in with slight resistance.
- Panel, after Row 1: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide.
- Panel, after Row 45: 18 in (45.7 cm) long.
- Panel, after Row 55: 22 in (55.9 cm) long.
If your pieces are too big, change to a 4.5 mm hook. If they’re too small or the roll won’t fit, change to a 5.5 mm hook. Don’t change stitch counts. All the placement and border math depends on them.
Pocket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds with the RS facing you. Don’t turn.
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 2, then work 10 hdc in the ring. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (10 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around. Join. (20 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) x10. Join. (30 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, (hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) x10. Join. (40 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, (hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st) x10. Join. (50 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, (hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st) x10. Join. (60 sts)
Checkpoint: the base lies flat and measures 4.8 in (12.2 cm) across. Pull the magic ring tight and weave in the tail.
Rnd 7 (base-turn round): Ch 2, hdc in BLO of each st around. Join. (60 sts: 60 worked 1-per-stitch + 0 added)
Working in the back loops leaves the front loops of Rnd 6 free. This creates the crisp ridge where the base turns up into the wall. You’ll use those free loops later when sewing.
Rnds 8–14: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. (60 sts in each round)
Rnd 15 (rim round): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (60 sts: 60 worked 1-per-stitch + 0 added)
Fasten off, leaving an 18 in (45.7 cm) tail for sewing.
The walls (Rnds 7–14) are 8 hdc rounds, or 3.2 in (8.1 cm). The sc rim brings the wall to about 3.5 in (8.9 cm). Firm, even rim stitches keep the pocket mouth from flaring.
Mark the back: Find the join seam of Rnd 15. Count 16 sts to the left of it and place a marker in the next st. Place a second marker 13 sts farther along, so the two markers frame the 14 back sts with the seam hidden at the side. Mark the 14 free front loops of Rnd 6 directly below them the same way.
Back Panel
The panel is worked in turned rows, starting at the bottom edge.
Foundation: Ch 22.
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (20 sts)
Rows 2–45: Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn. (20 sts in each row)
Checkpoint: the panel is 5 in x 18 in (12.7 cm x 45.7 cm).
Shoulder shaping (each row is 2 sts shorter than the one before):
- Row 46: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 16 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (18 sts)
- Row 47: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 14 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (16 sts)
- Row 48: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 12 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (14 sts)
- Row 49: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 10 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (12 sts)
- Row 50: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 8 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (10 sts)
These 5 rows add 2 in (5.1 cm) and narrow each side by 5 sts, which forms the rounded shoulders.
Neck:
Rows 51–55: Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts in each row)
Checkpoint: the panel measures 22 in (55.9 cm) from the foundation edge to the top of Row 55.
Row 56 (ring row): Ch 1, then work 1 ring sc in each st across. (10 sts)
The 10 sts gather slightly along the bottom curve of the ring, just like the photo. Fasten off and weave the tail back down through the neck stitches.
Make All Pieces
| Piece | Color | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Back panel | Natural beige | 1 |
| Natural beige | 3 |
Layout, from the front, top to bottom:
( RING )
\ neck / Rows 51–56
/ shoulders \ Rows 46–50
| free | Rows 41–45
| [POCKET 3] | Rows 32–40
| gap | Rows 26–31
| [POCKET 2] | Rows 17–25
| gap | Rows 11–16
| [POCKET 1] | Rows 2–10
|_____________| Row 1 / bottom edge
Joining
Sew the pockets to the panel with a whipstitch through the matching stitches. Lay the panel flat with the RS facing up and the foundation edge toward you.
Placement rows:
| Base row | Rim row | |
|---|---|---|
| 1 (bottom) | Row 2 | Row 10 |
| 2 (middle) | Row 17 | Row 25 |
| 3 (top) | Row 32 | Row 40 |
The pockets are spaced 15 rows apart, which is 6 in (15.2 cm). That leaves 7 free rows, about 2.8 in (7.1 cm), between one rim and the next base, so there’s room to grab a roll.
Mark the panel: On each placement row, put a marker in the 4th st and the 17th st. These frame the center 14 sts and leave 3 sts free on each side.
Stitch-to-stitch logic:
- Base seam: Thread the pocket tail onto the needle. Whipstitch the 14 marked front loops of the pocket’s Rnd 6 to the 14 marked hdc on the base row, one to one. Go through the front loop on the pocket and under the top of the hdc on the panel.
- Rim seam: Fold the pocket upward. Whipstitch the 14 marked sc of the pocket’s Rnd 15 to the 14 marked hdc on the rim row, one to one, going through both loops of each sc and around the post of each panel hdc.
That makes 14 pocket sts joined to 14 panel sts on both seams, with no extra or skipped stitches. The other 46 pocket sts curve out in front and form the D shape.
Tension: The pocket wall is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, but the two seam rows are 8 rows apart, or 3.2 in (8.1 cm). That small amount of ease makes the front bulge outward a little instead of pulling flat. Pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. The panel should stay completely flat behind the pocket.
Checkpoint: Slide a roll into each pocket. It should go in with light pressure, and the top of the roll should show about 0.5 in to 1 in (1.3 cm to 2.5 cm) above the rim. The panel should still measure 5 in (12.7 cm) wide at every pocket.
Border
Border gauge: 4 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm). Hdc rows are 0.4 in (1.0 cm) tall, so each pair of rows needs about 3 sc.
Work the border as an open U-shape. Go down one long side, across the bottom, and up the other side, but not across Row 56 at the ring.
With the RS facing, join yarn at the end of Row 55 on the right edge.
Right side (Rows 55 down to 1): Ch 1. Work 2 sc into the end of each odd-numbered row and 1 sc into the end of each even-numbered row. That’s 28 odd rows x 2 = 56 sc, plus 27 even rows x 1 = 27 sc. (83 sc)
Bottom edge: Work 3 sc in the first foundation ch, 1 sc in each of the next 18 ch, and 3 sc in the last foundation ch. That’s 20 sc worked 1-per-stitch plus 4 extra corner sc. (24 sc)
Left side (Rows 1 up to 55): Work 2 sc in each odd-numbered row end and 1 sc in each even-numbered row end. (83 sc)
Total: 83 + 24 + 83 = 190 sc. Fasten off and weave the tails into the neck.
Why the math works: At 2.5 rows per inch and 4 sc per inch, a perfect match would be 1.6 sc per row. The 2-then-1 rhythm gives 1.5 sc per row, so 83 sc cover the 22 in (55.9 cm) side at a slightly firm tension. That keeps the long edges straight with no ripple. The shoulder row ends slant, so the same rhythm follows the curve without cupping. Across the bottom, the 20 foundation sts each take 1 sc, and the 2 extra sc at each corner let the edging turn the corner without pulling in. The border adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each long side, so the width goes from 5 in to 5.5 in (12.7 cm to 14.0 cm). It also adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at the bottom, so the length goes from 22 in to 22.25 in (55.9 cm to 56.5 cm).
Final Blocking
- Take out all the rolls and markers.
- Wet the holder in cool water and gently press out the extra water in a towel. Don’t wring it.
- Lay the panel face up on the blocking mat.
- Pin the long edges straight at 5.5 in (14.0 cm) apart and the length at 22.25 in (56.5 cm), measured from the bottom edge to the base of the ring.
- Push a dry roll, wrapped in a plastic bag, into each pocket to set the round D shape.
- Smooth the shoulders into an even curve on both sides.
- Leave it to dry completely, usually 24 hours, before hanging.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The panel is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide from top to bottom of the straight section.
- The length is 22.25 in (56.5 cm) to the base of the ring.
- The shoulders match on both sides: 5 decrease rows each.
- The neck has 10 sts locked around the ring, with no gaps.
- Each pocket has 60 sts, a visible ridge at the base, and a firm sc rim.
- Both seams on each pocket join 14 sts to 14 sts, centered with 3 panel sts free on each side.
- The pocket bases sit on Rows 2, 17, and 32, and the rims on Rows 10, 25, and 40.
- The border has 83 sc on each side and 24 sc across the bottom.
- All the tails are woven in and none show on the RS.
Troubleshooting
The pocket base cups instead of lying flat. Your hdc is taller than the gauge. Go down a hook size for Rnds 1–6, or make your stitches a little shorter.
The pocket base ruffles. Your stitches are too short. Go up a hook size for the base.
The roll won’t fit. Check the base against the 4.8 in (12.2 cm) checkpoint. If it’s under, remake the pocket with a 5.5 mm hook. Don’t add stitches.
The pocket seams drift sideways. Rounds made with a joining ch-2 lean slightly as they go up. Re-find the 14 back sts at the rim from the markers, not by counting from the seam.
The panel edges wave after the border. You worked 2 sc in too many row ends. Rip it out and follow the 2-then-1 rhythm exactly.
The edges pull in. Your border tension is too tight. Rework the border with a 5.5 mm hook.
The ring slides around. One or more ring sc missed the ring. Work a second line of whipstitches around the ring through the Row 56 sts.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat with a roll in each pocket. Don’t tumble dry. Take the holder off the hook now and then so it can air out in a humid bathroom.
Final Notes
The whole holder depends on one chain of measurements. A gauge of 16 hdc and 10 rows to 4 in (10.2 cm) makes each pocket base 4.8 in (12.2 cm) across. It also makes the panel 5 in (12.7 cm) wide and 22 in (55.9 cm) long over 55 rows. Pockets spaced every 15 rows land 6 in (15.2 cm) apart, and the 190-stitch border brings the panel to 5.5 in x 22.25 in (14.0 cm x 56.5 cm). Check each step as you go and the holder will hang straight, the pockets will hold their rolls snugly, and the ring will sit neatly at the top.
Happy crocheting!