This hanging holder stores three spare toilet rolls in a neat vertical stack. Three oval baskets in soft light blue hang one above the other on two flat straps, and the straps loop over a short wooden dowel at the top.
Each basket has a white daisy with a yellow center and two small green leaves on the front. The walls are worked in lemon peel stitch for a bumpy, dense texture, and each rim finishes with a rolled reverse single crochet edge. The style is cottage-fresh and practical.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures about 6.25 in (15.9 cm) wide and 20 in (50.8 cm) from the bottom of the lowest basket to the dowel fold. Each basket is about 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm) at the base and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
Construction is simple: crochet three oval baskets from the base up, make two straps in short rows, add the daisy and leaf appliqués, then sew everything together row-to-round.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6.25 in (15.9 cm) wide x 20 in (50.8 cm) tall to the dowel fold
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (medium #4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 14 (3 baskets, 2 straps, 3 daisies, 6 leaves)
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets, hung on 2 vertical straps
- Piece size (one basket): 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm) base, 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Wall height before border: 3 in (7.6 cm)
- Border (rim) depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape and stands up to a humid bathroom. Acrylic works too but gives softer walls. The amounts below assume a skein of about 100 g / 200 m.
- Light blue (main color): 120 g / 240 m
- White (petals): 15 g / 30 m
- Yellow (daisy centers): 10 g / 20 m
- Green (leaves): 10 g / 20 m
All quantities include a margin of roughly 15 to 20 percent for swatching and sewing.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 6 stitch markers
- Straight pins or clips
- Wooden dowel, 12 in (30.5 cm) long, 3/8 to 1/2 in (1.0 to 1.3 cm) thick
- Scissors and a measuring tape
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- rev sc – reverse single crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- rep – repeat
Reverse single crochet (crab stitch): Working from left to right (right-handers), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. It makes a rolled, corded edge.
Lemon peel stitch (in rounds): Alternate sc and dc. On the next round, work dc into each sc and sc into each dc. The short and tall stitches push each other into small bumps.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sts and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc. Lemon peel stitch, worked as written, matches the same gauge.
Make one full basket before starting the rest. It serves as your gauge swatch.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 5: the base measures about 4.25 in x 2.5 in (10.8 cm x 6.4 cm).
- After Rnd 9: the base measures about 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm) and lies flat.
- After Rnd 21: the walls stand 3 in (7.6 cm) above the base fold.
- After Rnd 23: the finished basket stands 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
If your base is too big, go down a hook size, to 4.5 mm. If it is too small, go up to 5.5 mm. If the base ruffles, your increases are too loose; if it cups, they are too tight. Get the gauge right here, because the strap math depends on 4 rnds per inch.
Basket (Make 3)
With light blue, ch 9.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch; working along the underside of the chain, sc in next 6 ch, 2 sc in last ch (the same ch as the first sc). Join with sl st to first sc. (18 sts: 6 per side, 3 per end)
From here on, each round begins with ch 1 (does not count) and ends with a sl st join to the first st. The two straight sides stay at 6 sts. All increases happen at the two curved ends, 3 per end each round.
Rnd 2: Sc in next 6, 2 sc in each of next 3; rep from * once. (24 sts: 6 per side, 6 per end)
Rnd 3: Sc in next 6, (sc in next, 2 sc in next) 3 times; rep from * once. (30 sts: 6 per side, 9 per end)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 6, (sc in next 2, 2 sc in next) 3 times; rep from * once. (36 sts: 6 per side, 12 per end)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 6, (sc in next 3, 2 sc in next) 3 times; rep from * once. (42 sts: 6 per side, 15 per end)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 6, (sc in next 4, 2 sc in next) 3 times; rep from * once. (48 sts: 6 per side, 18 per end)
Rnd 7: Sc in next 6, (sc in next 5, 2 sc in next) 3 times; rep from * once. (54 sts: 6 per side, 21 per end)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6, (sc in next 6, 2 sc in next) 3 times; rep from * once. (60 sts: 6 per side, 24 per end)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 6, (sc in next 7, 2 sc in next) 3 times; rep from * once. (66 sts: 6 per side, 27 per end)
Check the base against the checkpoint. It should be about 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm).
Rnd 10 (base fold): Sc BLO in each st around. (66 sts)
The unworked front loops form a crisp ridge, and the walls start to rise.
Rnd 11 (lemon peel A): Sc in next st, dc in next st; rep from * around. (66 sts: 33 sc + 33 dc)
Rnd 12 (lemon peel B): Dc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around. (66 sts: 33 dc + 33 sc)
Rnds 13–21: Repeat Rnds 11 and 12 alternately, ending with an A round on Rnd 21. (66 sts each round)
The walls now measure 3 in (7.6 cm) from the base fold, across 12 rnds (Rnds 10–21). Do not fasten off. You’ll work the rim in the Border section.
Strap (Make 2)
The straps are worked in short rows, so each strap row lines up with exactly one basket round.
With light blue, ch 4.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (3 sts)
Rows 2–96: Ch 1 (does not count), sc in each st across, turn. (3 sts)
Fasten off. Each strap measures about 7/8 in (2.2 cm) wide and 24 in (61.0 cm) long. At 16 rows per 4 in (10.2 cm), 96 rows = 24 in.
Strap row map (from Row 1 up):
- Rows 1–14: bottom basket
- Rows 15–24: gap, 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
- Rows 25–38: middle basket
- Rows 39–48: gap, 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
- Rows 49–62: top basket
- Rows 63–80: rise to the dowel, 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
- Rows 81–88: loop around the dowel, 2 in (5.1 cm)
- Rows 89–96: folded back and sewn behind Rows 73–80
Mark Rows 14, 24, 38, 48, 62 and 80 with stitch markers now.
Daisy (Make 3)
Rnd 1: With yellow, make a magic ring, ch 1, 8 sc in ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (16 sts) Fasten off yellow.
The center measures about 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
Rnd 3: Join white in any st. (Ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, sl st) in next st, sl st in next st; rep from * 7 more times, working the last sl st into the joining st. (8 petals)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The daisy measures about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across.
Leaf (Make 6)
With green, ch 7.
Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, (sc, ch 2, sc) in last ch for the tip; working along the underside, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. Sl st to first sc. (12 sts plus a ch-2 tip)
Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Each leaf measures about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide.
Make All Pieces
- Light blue: 3 baskets, 2 straps
- Yellow and white: 3 daisies (yellow centers, white petals)
- Green: 6 leaves
Layout (front view, straps behind):
[ ===== dowel ===== ]
|S| |S| rise and loop (Rows 63-96)
[ leaf DAISY leaf ] top basket (Rows 49-62)
|S| |S| gap (Rows 39-48)
[ leaf DAISY leaf ] middle basket (Rows 25-38)
|S| |S| gap (Rows 15-24)
[ leaf DAISY leaf ] bottom basket (Rows 1-14)
Joining
Appliqués first. On each basket, the side opposite the round joins is the front. Center a daisy on the front, with its center on Rnd 16. Whipstitch around the yellow center and tack each petal tip with the white tail. Sew one leaf on each side, tips angled slightly up, with the leaf base tucked under a petal.
Straps to baskets. Place a basket face down. Lay a strap on the back wall so its outer edge is flush with the curved end of the basket. Repeat at the other end. The straps sit about 5.4 in (13.7 cm) apart, center to center.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: each finished basket wall is 14 rnds tall (Rnds 10–23), and each basket section of the strap is 14 rows. Match strap Row 1 to Rnd 10 of the bottom basket, Row 2 to Rnd 11, and so on, up to Row 14 at Rnd 23. Whipstitch both long edges of the strap to the wall, one stitch per row-end. Attach the middle basket to Rows 25–38 and the top basket to Rows 49–62 the same way.
Tension: pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. The strap should lie flat against the wall without puckering it.
Size checkpoint: from the bottom of the lowest basket to the rim of the highest, the stack measures 62 rows = 15.5 in (39.4 cm). Each gap measures 2.5 in (6.4 cm).
Dowel loops: pass the end of each strap over the dowel from front to back. Fold Rows 81–88 around the dowel, lay Rows 89–96 against the back of Rows 80–73, and whipstitch all around the overlap.
Border
The border is the basket rim. Work it on each basket right after Rnd 21, before joining.
Border gauge: 14 sts and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the walls.
Rnd 22: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (66 sts: 33 across the front half + 33 across the back half)
Rnd 23: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (66 sts: 33 front + 33 back)
Strap edging (optional, after joining): sl st along each free long edge of the strap, 1 sl st per row-end. The strap ends are hidden in the fold, so no corner stitches are added.
Why the math works: both rim rounds are worked 1 stitch into each existing stitch (66 + 0), so the rim doesn’t flare or pull in. The two rounds add 0.5 in (1.3 cm), so the walls grow from 3 in (7.6 cm) to 3.5 in (8.9 cm). That is exactly 14 rnds, matching the 14-row strap sections.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket with water until damp, not soaked.
- Place a toilet roll or a folded towel inside each basket to shape the oval.
- Press the base fold (Rnd 10) into a crisp edge with your fingers.
- Lay the joined holder flat on a towel and pin the straps straight, checking each gap at 2.5 in (6.4 cm).
- Shape the daisy petals with your fingertips so they lie flat and evenly spaced.
- Let everything dry completely, about 24 hours.
- Slide the dowel through the loops and hang.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each basket has 66 sts on Rnds 9 through 23.
- Each base measures about 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm).
- Each basket stands 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
- Each strap has 96 rows and is 24 in (61.0 cm) long.
- Both straps are sewn on matching rows, so the baskets hang level.
- Each daisy has 8 even petals and sits centered on the front.
- All tails are woven in at least 1 in (2.5 cm) and trimmed.
Troubleshooting
Base ruffles: your increases are too loose. Go down a hook size for Rnds 1–9 only.
Base cups before Rnd 10: your tension is too tight. Go up a hook size for the base.
Walls lean outward: check that Rnd 10 was worked in the back loop only, and keep the count at 66.
Lemon peel looks like plain stripes: you have worked dc into dc. Each round, every dc must sit on top of an sc.
Baskets hang crooked: one strap was attached a row higher than the other. Unpick it and re-match Row 1 to Rnd 10.
Rolls fit too tightly: add one more lemon peel round before the rim, and add 1 extra row to each basket section of both straps.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and lay flat to dry. Reshape the baskets with a roll inside while damp.
Final Notes
The whole holder rests on one measurement chain. A gauge of 4 rnds per inch gives a 14-round basket wall of 3.5 in (8.9 cm), which matches 14 strap rows exactly. Three baskets plus two 10-row gaps make a 62-row stack of 15.5 in (39.4 cm). The 34-row top section rises, wraps the dowel and folds back, for a 96-row strap of 24 in (61.0 cm). Check gauge on the first basket, and everything else falls into place.
Happy crocheting!