The Snowfall Star Cutlery Holder is a cream five-point star with a pocket for a fork and spoon. Ten raised ridges run out from the center, one to each tip and one to each inner corner, so the star looks folded or carved. A firm single-crochet rim frames the edge.
It is worked in one solid cream yarn, which gives it a quiet, Scandinavian look on a holiday table. Make one for each place setting. The cream sits well next to red napkins, white plates and greenery.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide from side tip to side tip and 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall from the top tip to the line between the two bottom tips.
How it’s made:
1. Work two identical star panels: a ridged circle in rounds, then five points worked in short rows.
2. Give each panel one round of single-crochet border.
3. Hold the panels together and work a joining round through both layers. Leave the two edges of the top point unjoined to form the cutlery opening.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide × 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate (post stitches, short rows, decreases)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 2 star panels (front and back), joined into 1 holder
- Layout: Front panel stacked directly on the back panel, wrong sides together
- Piece size before border: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide × 5.75 in (14.6 cm) tall
- Size after the joining round: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) × 6.25 in (15.9 cm)
- Border depth: 1/4 in (0.6 cm) total over 2 rounds
Materials
Yarn: Choose a smooth worsted-weight yarn in cotton, a cotton blend, or soft acrylic. Cotton keeps the ridges crisp and washes well after messy dinners. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they blur the post-stitch lines.
- Cream (one color): 30 g / 60 m (65.6 yd) per holder
Quantities include a margin of about 25% for your gauge test and tails. For a set of 6 holders, plan on 180 g / 360 m (393.7 yd).
Tools:
– 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stitch markers (at least 2)
– Blocking mat and rustproof pins
– Spray bottle with water
– Ruler or tape measure
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together
- sc3tog – single crochet 3 together
- FPdc – front post double crochet
- BPdc – back post double crochet
- MR – magic ring
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
Special stitches:
– FPdc: Yarn over and insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below. Yarn over, pull up a loop, then [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice.
– BPdc: Work the same way, but insert the hook from back to front to back around the post. On WS rows, a BPdc makes the ridge stand out on the RS.
– hdc2tog: [Yarn over, insert hook in next st, pull up a loop] twice, then yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.
– sc3tog: [Insert hook in next st, pull up a loop] 3 times, then yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 hdc × 12 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in flat hdc.
Make one complete front panel before you start the second, and check it against these measurements:
- After Rnd 3: the circle measures 2 in (5.1 cm) across.
- After Rnd 5: the circle measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
- Each point: 1.4 in (3.6 cm) long, measured from the edge of Rnd 5 to the tip.
- Panel before border: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide × 5.75 in (14.6 cm) tall.
If your circle is too big (more than 3.75 in / 9.5 cm after Rnd 5), go down to a 4 mm hook. If it is too small (under 3.25 in / 8.3 cm), go up to a 5 mm hook. A circle that ruffles usually means your hdc are too loose. A circle that cups usually means your post stitches are too tight. Pull up each post loop to the full height of the round.
Star Panel (Make 2)
Work in joined rounds with the RS facing. The beginning ch 2 never counts as a stitch. Join each round to the first stitch made, not to the chain.
Rnd 1: Make a MR, ch 2, then work 10 hdc in the ring. Pull the ring closed and sl st to the first hdc. (10 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, FPdc around next hdc, hdc in top of the same hdc. Repeat from * 9 more times. Sl st to the first FPdc. (20 sts: 10 FPdc, 10 hdc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, FPdc around next FPdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. Repeat from * 9 more times. Sl st to the first FPdc. (30 sts: 10 FPdc, 20 hdc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, FPdc around next FPdc, hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. Repeat from * 9 more times. Sl st to the first FPdc. (40 sts: 10 FPdc, 30 hdc)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, FPdc around next FPdc, hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. Repeat from * 9 more times. Sl st to the first FPdc. (50 sts: 10 FPdc, 40 hdc)
Fasten off. Checkpoint: the circle measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
You now have 10 sections, and each one is 1 FPdc followed by 4 hdc. Starting with any FPdc, mark every other FPdc as a valley ridge (5 in total). The other 5 FPdc are the tip ridges. Each point is worked over 9 stitches: 4 hdc, a tip ridge, then 4 hdc. Each valley ridge is left unworked between two points. Check: 5 points × 9 sts + 5 valley sts = 50 sts.
Points (work 5)
Row 1 (RS): Join the yarn with a sl st in the first hdc after any valley ridge. Ch 2, then hdc in the same st and in the next 3 hdc. FPdc around the next FPdc (the tip ridge), then hdc in the next 4 hdc. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1 (does not count). Hdc2tog, hdc in next 2 sts, BPdc around the FPdc, hdc in next 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (7 sts)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1. Hdc2tog, hdc in next st, FPdc around the BPdc, hdc in next st, hdc2tog. Turn. (5 sts)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1. Hdc2tog, BPdc around the FPdc, hdc2tog. Turn. (3 sts)
Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, sc3tog. (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail.
Skip the next valley ridge and join in the hdc after it. Repeat Rows 1–5 until you have 5 points. Every valley ridge is left unworked and forms the bottom of an inner V.
Each point decreases by 2 stitches per row (9, 7, 5, 3, 1), which makes it a symmetrical triangle with the ridge running up its center. Weave in all the point tails on the WS.
Panel Border (Rnd 1, on each panel separately)
With the RS facing, join with a sl st in any unworked valley ridge. Ch 1, then sc in the same st. This is the first valley sc.
Then work the following for each point:
1. Up the first edge: 2 sc in the end of Row 1, 1 sc in Row 2, 2 sc in Row 3, 1 sc in Row 4. (6 edge sc)
2. Tip: (sc, ch 2, sc) in the top of the sc3tog.
3. Down the second edge: 1 sc in Row 4, 2 sc in Row 3, 1 sc in Row 2, 2 sc in Row 1. (6 edge sc)
4. Valley: sc in the next valley ridge. On the last repeat, skip this step, because the first sc of the round already sits there.
Sl st to the first sc. (75 sc + 5 ch-2 sps)
Each point has 15 sc: 6 + 1 + 1 + 6 edge and tip sc, plus 1 valley sc. Each edge has 7 sc: 6 edge sc and its own tip sc. The valley sc is shared and counted separately. Check: 10 edges × 7 sc + 5 valley sc = 75 sc.
Fasten off the back panel. On the front panel, fasten off too and weave in the ends.
Make All Pieces
You need 2 cream panels per holder, each finished through the Panel Border round:
- Front panel: 1 in cream (RS facing out)
- Back panel: 1 in cream (RS facing out)
Layout (stacked, viewed from the front):
[ FRONT PANEL ] <- RS facing you
[ BACK PANEL ] <- RS facing the table
(wrong sides together, points matched tip to tip)
For a table set, repeat everything once per place setting. Six holders need 12 panels.
Joining
Hold the two panels with WS together and the front panel facing you. Line up every tip and valley exactly, and place a marker at the valley on each side of the top point.
The joining round is worked stitch to stitch: each hook insertion goes through one stitch of the front and the matching stitch of the back. Both panels have 75 sc and 5 ch-2 sps, so every stitch has a partner. The two points of the opening, where the top point meets its neighbors, are the two marked valley sc3tog.
Joining Rnd (Border Rnd 2): Start on the lower-right point. Skip the first edge sc after a valley sc, then join with a sl st through both layers in the next sc. Ch 1 and sc in the same st.
Then work as follows:
1. Up the edge: sc in the next 4 edge sc and in the tip sc. (6 sc)
2. Tip: (sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-2 sp. (2 sc)
3. Down the edge: sc in the tip sc and in the next 5 edge sc. (6 sc)
4. Valley: sc3tog over [last edge sc, valley sc, first edge sc of the next point]. (1 st)
5. Repeat steps 1–4 around.
At the top point: work the 14 sc between its two marked sc3tog through the front panel only. Work both marked sc3tog through both layers, because they lock the ends of the opening.
On the final repeat, the sc3tog uses the skipped first edge sc. Sl st to the first sc. (75 sts + 5 ch-2 sps)
Tension: Keep the stitches firm but not tight. The rim should lie flat without pulling the points inward. Before inserting the hook, push both layers’ stitches into line with your thumb so the back panel doesn’t creep.
Checkpoint: the holder measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide × 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall. The back panel’s top point stays one round shorter. This lowered back edge makes it easier to slide cutlery in.
Border
Border gauge: each sc round adds about 1/8 in (0.3 cm) to every edge. Two rounds give the 1/4 in (0.6 cm) border depth and add 0.5 in (1.3 cm) to the overall width.
| Round | Each edge | Valley | Round total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 (panel border) | 6 edge sc + 1 tip sc = 7 | 1 sc | 10 × 7 + 5 = 75 sc + 5 ch-2 sps |
| Rnd 2 (joining) | 6 sc + 1 new tip sc = 7 | 1 sc3tog | 10 × 7 + 5 = 75 sts + 5 ch-2 sps |
Why the math works: in Rnd 2, each tip adds 2 stitches, one new sc on each side of the ch-2. Each valley sc3tog removes 2 stitches by turning 3 stitches into 1. Five tips gain 10 and five valleys lose 10, so the count stays at 75.
That balance is what keeps the star shape. The outer corners grow outward while the inner corners pull in, so the V corners stay crisp and don’t ruffle.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends between the layers, away from the opening.
- Lay the holder flat on a blocking mat with the front up.
- Spray it evenly until damp, not soaked.
- Pin each tip to the finished measurements: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) side tip to side tip, and 6.25 in (15.9 cm) top tip to the bottom-tip line.
- Pin each inner V so the valley ridges point straight at the corners.
- Run a finger along each of the 10 ridges to straighten them.
- Let it dry completely, about 6–8 hours, before unpinning.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Both panels have 10 straight ridges: 5 to the tips and 5 to the inner corners.
- [ ] Each point has 9, 7, 5, 3 and 1 stitches in Rows 1–5.
- [ ] Border Rnd 1 has 75 sc + 5 ch-2 sps on each panel.
- [ ] The joining round has 75 sts + 5 ch-2 sps.
- [ ] The opening runs exactly across the top point, between the two locked sc3tog.
- [ ] The finished size is 6.5 in (16.5 cm) × 6.25 in (15.9 cm).
- [ ] No tails show on the front or inside the pocket.
Troubleshooting
Ridges lean or zigzag: You worked a post stitch around the wrong stitch. Every FPdc goes around the FPdc of the round below, never around an hdc.
The circle ruffles: Your hdc are too loose for 10 increases per round. Go down half a hook size.
Points curl toward the RS: The post stitches are too tight. Pull up a longer loop before finishing each FPdc or BPdc.
Points are uneven lengths: Check that every point starts with exactly 9 stitches and that you skipped exactly one valley ridge between points.
Inner corners flare: Make sure you worked a sc3tog at every valley in Rnd 2, not a plain sc.
The opening is too tight for a spoon: Leave one extra edge sc unjoined on each side of the top point, and work them through the front only.
Care
Hand wash or machine wash on gentle in cool water, then reshape and dry flat. Steam the ridges lightly if they soften over time.
Final Notes
Everything in this holder depends on the measurement chain:
1. Gauge: 16 hdc × 12 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
2. Rnd 3 circle: 2 in (5.1 cm) across.
3. Rnd 5 circle: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
4. Points: 1.4 in (3.6 cm) long.
5. Panel before border: 6 in (15.2 cm) × 5.75 in (14.6 cm).
6. Two border rounds: 1/4 in (0.6 cm) of rim.
7. Finished holder: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) × 6.25 in (15.9 cm).
Check each link as you go and every star in your set will match. The stitch counts should hold steady at 50 for the circle and 75 for both border rounds.
Happy crocheting!