The Sunny Bloom holder turns a plain spare roll into a cheerful bit of bathroom decor. It is a flat sunflower with a caramel-brown center and 16 pointed golden petals. It hangs from a wall peg by a sturdy strap, and a wooden dowel across the front carries the roll.
The colors are simple: one golden yellow for the petals, ring, straps, and roll cap, and one warm caramel brown for the center. A raised chain vein runs down each petal and a crisp outline finishes the edge, so the flower reads clearly even from across the room.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished flower measures 10 in (25.4 cm) across, from petal tip to petal tip.
Construction is straightforward. You work the center in joined rounds, add one yellow ring, build the petals straight off that ring, and finish with an outline border. Then you make a hanging strap, two dowel straps, and a two-layer teardrop cap, and sew it all together around an 8 in (20.3 cm) dowel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 10 in (25.4 cm) across the flower
- Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 6 crocheted pieces (1 flower panel, 1 hanging strap, 2 dowel straps, 2 cap halves) plus 1 wooden dowel
- Layout: One flower panel with the strap at the back top and the roll assembly across the lower front
- Center disc size: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) after Round 10
- Size before border: 9.5 in (24.1 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per side
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton of about 170 m per 100 g. Cotton holds its shape, takes blocking well, and stands up to bathroom humidity. Acrylic works too, but the petals will be a little softer.
- Color A, golden yellow: 80 g, about 136 m (149 yd)
- Color B, caramel brown: 20 g, about 34 m (37 yd)
Both amounts include a margin of about 20% for your gauge swatch and seams.
Tools and notions:
- 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Small handful of polyester fiberfill
- Wooden dowel, 3/4 in (1.9 cm) diameter, 8 in (20.3 cm) long, sanded smooth
- Optional: clear-drying craft glue and fabric stiffener
- Rustproof pins and a blocking mat
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sp: space
- sk: skip
- MR: magic ring
- WS: wrong side
- rep: repeat
Special stitch: petal sequence (10 sts). Work 1 st into each of 10 chains or loops in a row, in this order: sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc. The sequence is symmetrical, so it reads the same in either direction.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc rows. That is 4 sts and 4.5 rows per 1 in (2.5 cm).
Use the flower center as your real test piece. It is quick to make and shows your gauge in the round better than a flat swatch.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 5 (30 sts): about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across
- After Round 10 (60 sts): 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across
- After Round 11 (64 sts): 5 in (12.7 cm) across
- After Round 13: each petal is 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long from Round 11, and the flower is 9.5 in (24.1 cm) across
- After Round 14: 10 in (25.4 cm) across
If your center is too big, go down to a 3.75 mm (F-5) hook. If it is too small, go up to a 4.5 mm (7) hook. If the disc ruffles, your rounds are too loose for the increases, so go down a hook size. If it cups, go up one. A flat center matters most, because the petals copy whatever the center does.
Flower Panel
Work joined rounds with the right side facing you throughout. The ch 1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch.
Center (Color B)
Round 1: Make a MR, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, join with sl st to first sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, rep 6 times, join. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep 6 times, join. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep 6 times, join. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep 6 times, join. (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep 6 times, join. (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep 6 times, join. (48 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep 6 times, join. (54 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep 6 times, join. (60 sts)
Fasten off Color B. Pull the starting tail to close the ring tightly and weave it in.
To keep the rounds looking circular, stagger the increases. On even rounds, work half the plain sts before the first increase. This keeps the disc from turning into a hexagon.
Yellow Ring (Color A)
Round 11 (conversion round): Join Color A in any st. Ch 1, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep 4 times, join. (60 sts worked 1 per st + 4 extra = 64 sts)
This round only adds 4 sts. Its job is to give you a count that divides evenly by 16 petals: 64 ÷ 16 = 4 sts per petal.
Petals, First Halves
Round 12: Sl st in each of next 2 sts, ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook work the petal sequence down the chain (10 sts), sk next 2 sts of Round 11, rep 15 more times. Join with sl st to first sl st. (16 petal halves, 2 sl sts between each)
Each repeat uses exactly 4 sts of Round 11: 2 sl sts and 2 skipped sts. That gives 16 × 4 = 64 sts. The first half of each petal leans over the 2 skipped sts, and the unworked side of the chain faces the sl sts.
Petals, Second Halves and Tips
Round 13: Sl st in the next sl st so you sit at the base of the first petal chain. Working up the free loops on the bare side of the chain, work the petal sequence (10 sts). In the tip ch (the ch you skipped in Round 12), work (sc, ch 2, sc). Working down the first half, sc in each of the 10 petal sts. Sl st in each of next 2 sl sts, rep 16 times. On the last repeat, the 2 sl sts land in the first sl sts of the round. Fasten off.
Count per petal: 10 + 2 + 10 = 22 sts and 1 ch-2 sp, plus 2 sl sts in the valley, for 24 sts. Round total: 16 × 24 = 384 sts plus 16 ch-2 sps.
The second half mirrors the first, and the original chain now runs up the center of the petal as a raised vein. The flower should measure 9.5 in (24.1 cm) across.
Make All Pieces
You need one panel plus these small parts, all in Color A:
| Piece | Qty | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Flower panel | 1 | 10 in (25.4 cm) across |
| Hanging strap | 1 | 0.75 × 12 in (1.9 × 30.5 cm) |
| Dowel strap | 2 | 1.25 × 8 in (3.2 × 20.3 cm) |
| Teardrop cap half | 2 | 3 × 1.5 in (7.6 × 3.8 cm) |
Hanging strap: Ch 4. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn (3 sts). Rows 2–54: ch 1, sc in each st, turn (3 sts). Fasten off with a long tail. 54 rows ÷ 4.5 rows per in = 12 in (30.5 cm).
Dowel straps (make 2): Ch 6. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn (5 sts). Rows 2–36: ch 1, sc in each st, turn (5 sts). Fasten off with a long tail. 36 rows ÷ 4.5 = 8 in (20.3 cm).
Teardrop cap halves (make 2):
Ch 11.
Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 8 ch (9 sc). Work 5 sc in last ch for the rounded end. Rotate and work along the free loops: sc in next 8 ch, then (sc, ch 2) in the last ch, which is the base of your first sc. Join. (23 sts + ch-2 sp)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st and next 8 sts (9), 2 sc in each of next 5 sts (10), sc in next 9 sts (9), 3 sc in ch-2 sp (3), join. (31 sts)
Fasten off one half. Leave the other half on the hook for joining.
Layout, viewed from the front:
[ hanging strap loop ]
||
* * * * * * * * * * * * *
* petals (brown petals *
* [strap] center) [strap] *
* | | *
* ===|====[ roll ]======|=( cap )
* * * * * * * * * * * * *
Joining
Cap: Hold the two halves WS together, with the working half in front. Ch 1. Sc through both layers in each matching pair of sts across the rounded end and down both long sides, for 24 pairs. Leave the last 7 pairs open: the 3 tip sts and 2 sts on each side. This leaves a 1 in (2.5 cm) opening at the point. Stuff lightly so the cap is puffy but still flat enough to hang neatly.
Push 3/4 in (1.9 cm) of one dowel end into the opening. Sew the opening snugly around the dowel with the tail. Add a dab of glue inside if you like.
Hanging strap: Fold the strap into a loop. Sew each end flat to the back of the two top petals, overlapping 1 in (2.5 cm), with the ends 1.5 in (3.8 cm) apart. Whipstitch stitch to stitch: each edge sc of the strap goes to a matching back loop of the panel, so nothing shows on the front.
Dowel straps: Fold each strap in half to a 4 in (10.2 cm) loop and stack the ends. Sew the stacked ends flat to the front of the panel, overlapping 1 in (2.5 cm), one strap on each side of the brown center across Round 11 and the petal bases. The top of each seam should sit level with the center of the flower. The inner edges of the two straps should be 4.5 in (11.4 cm) apart.
Keep your tension even. Pull each stitch just snug enough to close the gap without dimpling the petals.
Checkpoint: Slide the bare end of the dowel through the right strap, a 4 in (10.2 cm) roll, and the left strap. The cap should rest against the right strap, with about 1/4 in (0.6 cm) of dowel showing past the left strap. That adds up to the full 8 in (20.3 cm): 7 in (17.8 cm) across the straps and gap, 3/4 in (1.9 cm) inside the cap, and a 1/4 in (0.6 cm) tail. To change the roll, pull the dowel out to the right by its cap.
Border
Border gauge: One round of sc adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on every side. This takes the flower from 9.5 in (24.1 cm) to 10 in (25.4 cm).
Round 14: Join Color A in the first st of any petal’s second half, right after the valley sl sts. Ch 1. Working in back loops only, sc in each of next 10 sts up the side, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 10 sts down the side, sl st in each of next 2 valley sl sts, rep 16 times, join. Fasten off.
Count per petal: 10 + 3 + 10 = 23 sc, plus 2 sl sts, for 25 sts. Round total: 16 × 25 = 400 sts (368 sc + 32 sl sts).
Why the math works: The petal sides are nearly straight, so 1 sc per st lies flat without pulling or rippling. The 3 sc in each tip turn the corner and keep the point sharp. The 2 valley sl sts add no height, so the gaps between petals stay crisp. Working in back loops leaves a raised ridge on the front that outlines every petal.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the back of the panel before blocking.
- Remove the dowel and cap.
- Spray the panel with water until it is damp, or dip it and gently press out the excess.
- Lay it face up on a blocking mat and pin the center into a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) circle.
- Pin each petal tip straight out so the tips form an even 10 in (25.4 cm) circle.
- Use a ruler to check that opposite tips are 10 in (25.4 cm) apart in several directions.
- For a stiffer panel, brush on a light coat of fabric stiffener while it is pinned.
- Let it dry completely, usually 24 hours, before unpinning.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The center lies flat, with 60 sts in Round 10
- Round 11 has 64 sts
- There are 16 petals, all the same length and evenly spaced
- Each petal has a centered chain vein and a sharp tip
- The border has 400 sts and a visible ridge
- The flower measures 10 in (25.4 cm) across
- The hanging strap is sewn securely and does not show from the front
- The dowel straps are 4.5 in (11.4 cm) apart and level
- The cap is firmly attached and the dowel slides freely
Troubleshooting
The center cups: Your rounds are too tight. Go up a hook size or loosen your increases.
The center ruffles: You have extra stitches or loose tension. Recount each round against the counts above.
The petals overlap heavily: Your dc are too tall. Work the petal sequence a little tighter, or replace the middle 4 dc with hdc, dc, dc, hdc.
There are gaps between petals: Check that every repeat uses exactly 4 sts of Round 11.
The tips are rounded: Make sure you work the 3 sc into the ch-2 sp in Round 14, not into the sc beside it.
The roll drags: Make each dowel strap 2 rows longer.
The panel tilts: Move the hanging strap ends so they are centered.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat. Take off the dowel and cap first, and reshape the petals while damp.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. The center is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) and the yellow ring brings it to 5 in (12.7 cm). Petals 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long bring the flower to 9.5 in (24.1 cm), and the 0.25 in (0.6 cm) border finishes it at 10 in (25.4 cm). If you check each stage as you go, the dowel and roll will fit right into place.
Happy crocheting!