This window valance has a lace header in soft taupe with a sea-glass green scalloped edge. Seven beaded strands hang from it. Four of them carry an openwork seahorse with a mint belly of rib-like slots, a taupe outline, a picot crest, a long snout and a curled tail. The three strands in between carry small crochet beads only. Every strand ends in a taupe diamond drop.
The colors are quiet and coastal: taupe, sage-mint green and one dark bead eye per seahorse. It suits a beach house, a bathroom window or a nursery.
The pattern uses US terms. The finished header is 35.5 in (90.2 cm) wide and 6.75 in (17.1 cm) tall. Each strand drops about 14 to 14.5 in (35.6 to 36.8 cm), so the whole valance hangs about 21.25 in (54.0 cm).
You’ll make seven 5 in (12.7 cm) lace squares, join them in one row and add a border with one deep green scallop per square. Then you’ll make the seahorses, beads and drops and build the strands. Each strand hangs from a scallop point.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: header 35.5 in x 6.75 in (90.2 cm x 17.1 cm); total drop about 21.25 in (54.0 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK (#3) cotton
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 7 header squares, 4 seahorses, 30 beads, 7 diamond drops
- Layout: 7 squares in 1 row; 7 strands, alternating seahorse and bead strands
- Piece size: each square 5 in (12.7 cm); each seahorse about 7 in x 3 in (17.8 cm x 7.6 cm)
- Size before border: 35 in x 5 in (88.9 cm x 12.7 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on the top and sides; 1.5 in (3.8 cm) at the scallop points
Materials
Use a smooth, mercerized DK cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps the lace open and the seahorse ribs crisp, and it fades less in window light. The amounts below assume about 110 m per 50 g.
- Color A, Taupe: 150 g, about 330 m (squares, border round, seahorse heads, outlines and tails, beads, drops, cords)
- Color B, Sage Mint: 50 g, about 110 m (scallop rows, seahorse belly panels, beads)
These amounts include a margin of about 15–20%.
Tools:
– 3.5 mm (E-4) hook
– Yarn needle
– 4 black beads or safety eyes, 6 mm
– A small amount of polyester fiberfill
– Stitch markers
– Blocking mat, rustproof pins, spray bottle
– 8 curtain clip rings and a rod
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch chain
- sl st slip stitch
- sc single crochet
- hdc half double crochet
- dc double crochet
- tr treble crochet
- sc2tog single crochet 2 together
- sk skip
- sp space
- st(s) stitch(es)
Picot: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 18 sc and 20 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). Make and measure one complete square before you start the others, because every later number depends on it.
Square checkpoints (measured flat, across the middle):
– After Rnd 1: about 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
– After Rnd 2: about 2.75 in (7.0 cm)
– After Rnd 3: about 3.75 in (9.5 cm)
– After Rnd 4: about 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
– After Rnd 5: 5 in (12.7 cm) per side
If your square is more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm) too big, go down half a hook size. If it’s too small, go up half a size. Change the hook, not the stitch counts, because the border math depends on them.
Header Square (Make 7, Color A)
Rnd 1: Magic ring. Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), then (dc, ch 1) 11 times in the ring. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (12 dc, 12 ch-1 sps: the wheel spokes)
Rnd 2: Sl st into the first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp, (ch 5, sc in next ch-1 sp) 11 times, ch 5. Join to the first sc. (12 ch-5 loops)
Rnd 3 (squaring): Sl st into the first loop. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the same loop for a corner. 5 dc in each of the next 2 loops, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the next loop; repeat from * twice more. Finish with 5 dc in each of the last 2 loops and join to the top of the ch-3. (64 dc: 16 per side between the corner ch-3 sps)*
Rnd 4 (mesh): Sl st into the corner sp. Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), dc in the same sp. (Ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) 8 times along the side, ch 1, then (dc, ch 2, dc) in the corner sp; repeat from * around. End with ch 1 and join to the 3rd ch of the ch-5. (Each side: 2 corner dc, 8 side dc and 9 ch-1 sps)*
Rnd 5 (trim): Ch 1. Sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp, and work 3 sc in each corner ch-2 sp. Join. (88 sc. Each side has 23 sts, counting both corner sts; the corner st is the middle sc of each 3-sc corner.)
Count check: 19 sts between corner groups plus 3 corner sc is 22 per repeat, and 4 x 22 = 88. Counting by sides, 4 x 23 = 92, minus the 4 shared corners, is also 88.
Fasten off and weave in the ends. Steam each square to 5 in (12.7 cm).
Make All Pieces
- Color A: 7 squares, 4 seahorse heads, 4 outlines, 4 tails, 13 beads, 7 diamond drops
- Color B: 4 belly panels, 17 beads
Layout (front view):
[Sq1][Sq2][Sq3][Sq4][Sq5][Sq6][Sq7]
H B H B H B H
H = seahorse strand, B = bead strand.
Seahorse (Make 4)
Belly panel (Color B): Ch 23.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (22 sc)
Row 2 (ribs): Ch 1, sc in the first 2 sc. Then (ch 1, sk 1 sc, work a post st in the next sc) 10 times. Work the 10 posts in this order: 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc. Turn. (2 sc + 10 posts + 10 ch-1 sps = 22)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first 2 sc. Then work 1 sc in each ch-1 sp and 1 sc in each post. The exception is the ch-1 sp just before each tr post: work 2 sc in that sp. (2 + 10 + 8 + 4 = 24 sc) Fasten off.
Row 3 has 2 more sts than Row 1, so the panel curves into a crescent. Row 3 is the belly edge and the foundation is the back. Checkpoint: about 5 in x 1 in (12.7 cm x 2.5 cm).
Outline (Color A):
Rnd 1: Join at the neck end of the foundation edge. Sc in each foundation ch (22), work 3 sc across the 3 row ends at the tail end, 24 sc along Row 3, and 3 sc across the neck row ends. Join. (52 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join. (52 sc)
Rnd 3 (back crest only): Ch 1. Over the 22 back-edge sts, work (sc in next st, picot, sc in next st) 11 times. Fasten off. (11 picots)
Checkpoint: about 5.5 in x 1.75 in (14.0 cm x 4.4 cm).
Head (Color A):
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st. (12. This round is the eye ring.)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. (18)
Snout: Ch 9. Working in the back bumps, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across (8 sc). Sl st in the next head st.
Head crest: Sk 3 head sts, then work (sc in next st, picot) 3 times. Fasten off.
The head measures about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across and the snout is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long. Sew the eye into the center of the ring.
Tail (Color A): Ch 21. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 7 ch, then work 2 sc in each of the last 12 ch. (8 + 24 = 32 sc) The increases make the strip spiral. Roll it into a tight curl about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across and tack it in place.
Assemble: Sew the head to the neck end over about 4 sts, with the snout pointing toward the belly side. Sew the straight end of the tail to the tail end of the body so the curl turns toward the belly. The finished seahorse measures about 7 in x 3 in (17.8 cm x 7.6 cm).
Beads and Drops
Bead (make 13 in A, 17 in B):
– Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6)
– Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st. (12)
– Rnd 3: Sc in each st. (12)
– Rnd 4: Sc2tog 6 times. (6)
Stuff firmly and close. Each bead is about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) across.
Diamond Drop (make 7, Color A):
– Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6)
– Rnd 2: (Sc, 2 sc in next) 3 times. (9)
– Rnd 3: (Sc 2, 2 sc in next) 3 times. (12)
– Rnd 4: (Sc 3, 2 sc in next) 3 times. (15)
– Rnd 5: Sc in each st. (15)
– Rnd 6: (Sc 3, sc2tog) 3 times. (12)
– Rnd 7: (Sc 2, sc2tog) 3 times. (9)
– Rnd 8: (Sc, sc2tog) 3 times. (6)
Stuff and close. Each drop is about 1.5 in x 1 in (3.8 cm x 2.5 cm).
Joining
Lay the squares in one row. Hold two neighboring squares right sides together and sl st through the back loops of both edges, one stitch to one stitch. Each seam is 23 pairs, from corner st to corner st. Make 6 seams.
Keep the slip stitches as loose as your trim round, because tight seams pull the header into a curve. Each seam should lie flat and measure 5 in (12.7 cm).
Checkpoint: the joined strip measures 35 in x 5 in (88.9 cm x 12.7 cm).
Border
The border is worked at the same gauge as the squares: 23 sts per 5 in (12.7 cm).
Rnd 1 (Color A, all around): Join in any edge st. Sc in each st around, working 3 sc in each of the 4 outer corner sts. At the seams, work 1 sc in each of the two corner sts, with nothing added.
- Long sides: 7 x 23 = 161 base sts, giving 163 sc with both corner centers
- Short sides: 23 base sts, giving 25 sc with both corner centers
- Total: 2 x 163 + 2 x 25 − 4 shared corners = 372 sc
Fasten off.
Row 2 (Color B, bottom edge only): With the right side facing, join in the last sc of the first bottom corner group. You’ll work across 161 sts and finish in the first sc of the next corner group. These 161 sts sit over the 161 base sts, so each 23-st segment lines up with one square.
Ch 1. In each segment: sc in st 1, ch 1, sk st 2, dc in st 3. Then (ch 2, sk 2, dc in next) 6 times, which puts the dc on sts 6, 9, 12, 15, 18 and 21. Ch 1, sk st 22, sc in st 23. Repeat across all 7 segments, then turn.
(Each segment: 2 sc, 7 dc, 6 ch-2 sps and 2 ch-1 sps. It uses 1 + 1 + 7 + 12 + 1 + 1 = 23 sts.)
Row 3 (Color B, scallops): Ch 1. Work each segment as follows: sc in sc, sk ch-1 sp, hdc in dc, 2 dc in sp, dc in dc, 2 dc in sp, dc in dc, 2 tr in sp, (tr, ch 3, tr) in center dc, 2 tr in sp, dc in dc, 2 dc in sp, dc in dc, 2 dc in sp, hdc in dc, sk ch-1 sp, sc in sc. Fasten off. (22 sts and 1 ch-3 point per scallop; 154 sts and 7 points in total)
Why the math works: The bottom edge is exactly 7 x 23 sts, and each scallop uses exactly 23 sts. That puts each scallop’s center dc and ch-3 point on st 12 of its square, which is the square’s middle. The scallops are symmetrical, so turning the row doesn’t move them.
Strands: Before you start each strand, thread its beads onto a long length of Color A with a yarn needle. Put the bottom-most bead on first. Join the yarn at a ch-3 point and chain down. To place a bead, slide it up to the hook and ch 1 snugly below it.
- Seahorse strand: Ch 5, bead B, ch 5, bead A, ch 3, then sl st into the head crest and fasten off. Join a new length at the base of the tail curl and work ch 2, bead B, ch 2. Sew a diamond drop to the end. (About 14.5 in / 36.8 cm)
- Bead strand: (Ch 6, bead) 6 times, alternating colors and starting with B. Ch 2 and sew a diamond drop to the end. (About 14 in / 35.6 cm)
Final Blocking
- Wet the header, press out the water and roll it in a towel.
- Pin it to 35.5 in x 6.75 in (90.2 cm x 17.1 cm), keeping the top edge straight.
- Pin out each scallop point.
- Pin each seahorse flat. Open every rib slot and pin out each crest picot.
- Let everything dry completely, then hang the valance and let the strands settle.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each square has 23 sts per side and measures 5 in (12.7 cm).
- All 6 seams are flat and matched stitch to stitch.
- Border Rnd 1 has 372 sc.
- There are 7 scallops, each centered on its square.
- Each seahorse has 10 open ribs, 11 back picots, a secure eye and a tight tail curl.
- All beads and drops are firmly stuffed and closed.
- The strands run H, B, H, B, H, B, H.
Troubleshooting
- Square ruffles: The Rnd 2 loops are too long. Try ch 4 instead of ch 5.
- Square cups: Loosen Rnd 3 or go up half a hook size.
- Header curves: Rework any tight seams more loosely.
- Scallops are off-center: Recount Rnd 1. There should be 161 sts between the corner centers.
- Seahorse is too straight: Check that Row 3 has 24 sc.
- Strands twist: Mist them and let them hang with the drops attached.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water and dry flat. Re-pin the scallops if they need it.
Final Notes
All the sizes follow from your gauge. At gauge, each square is 5 in (12.7 cm) with 23 sts per side. Seven squares make a 35 in (88.9 cm) strip with 161 sts along each long edge. The border brings the header to 35.5 in x 6.75 in (90.2 cm x 17.1 cm), with one scallop point centered on each square. Seven strands hang from those points for a total drop of about 21.25 in (54.0 cm). If each checkpoint matches, the valance will hang straight and even.
Happy crocheting!