This beaded curtain is made of long vertical strands. Each strand alternates lacy almond-shaped leaves and small round medallions, with a cream pearl bead between every pair of motifs and a full tassel at the bottom. All thirteen strands loop over a wooden curtain rod, so light comes through the open stitches and the leaf veins show clearly.
Every motif is worked in one warm copper-rust cotton. The pearls add a soft champagne shine, and the single color keeps the boho look calm rather than busy. This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
The finished curtain measures about 38″ (96.5 cm) wide on the rod and 63.5″ (161.3 cm) from the rod to the tassel tips. A single leaf is 5.5″ × 2″ (14.0 × 5.1 cm). A single medallion is 2″ (5.1 cm) across.
Here is how it comes together. You make 78 leaves and 78 medallions, plus 13 tassels. Short beaded chain links join them into 13 strands, and a chain loop at the top of each strand slides onto the rod.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 38″ (96.5 cm) wide × 63.5″ (161.3 cm) long
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Fingering (#1), mercerized cotton
- Hook: 2.5 mm
- Number of pieces: 78 leaves, 78 medallions, 13 tassels, 156 pearl beads
- Layout: 13 strands; each strand alternates 6 leaves and 6 medallions, leaf on top, tassel at the bottom
- Piece size: leaf 5.5″ × 2″ (14.0 × 5.1 cm); medallion 2″ (5.1 cm) diameter
- Leaf size before border: 5″ × 1.5″ (12.7 × 3.8 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25″ (0.6 cm) on every edge of each leaf (Rounds 3–4)
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth, mercerized fingering-weight cotton or cotton blend. A crisp yarn holds the vein openings and the scallops well, and it won’t stretch much as the strands hang. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy fibers.
- Copper rust: 250 g / about 850 m (5 balls of 50 g / 170 m). The project uses about 706 m.
Tools and notions:
- 2.5 mm crochet hook
- 156 pearl beads, 10 mm, cream or champagne, with a hole of at least 2 mm (buy about 170 to allow for spares)
- Big-eye beading needle or dental floss threader to string the pearls
- Stiff card, 5″ (12.7 cm) tall, for the tassels
- Tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers
- Wooden curtain rod, 1″ (2.5 cm) diameter, at least 42″ (106.7 cm) long
- Blocking mat and rustproof pins
The yarn amounts include a margin of about 20% for gauge differences, yarn tails, and one test piece of each motif.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sk – skip
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd – round
- rev sc – reverse single crochet
Special stitches:
- Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Work from left to right (if you crochet right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and draw through both loops. This makes the twisted, rope-like edge on the leaves.
- Bead chain (bch): Slide one pre-strung pearl up against the hook, yarn over behind the bead, and draw through. The bead is locked inside that chain.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 28 sc and 30 sc rows = 4″ (10.2 cm). That is 7 sc per inch.
Make one leaf and one medallion before you start the full set, and measure each one at the checkpoints below.
Leaf checkpoints:
- After Rnd 1: 4.5″ × 0.75″ (11.4 × 1.9 cm)
- After Rnd 2: 5″ × 1.5″ (12.7 × 3.8 cm)
- After Rnd 4: 5.5″ × 2″ (14.0 × 5.1 cm)
Medallion checkpoints:
- After Rnd 1: 0.6″ (1.5 cm)
- After Rnd 2: 1.1″ (2.8 cm)
- After Rnd 3: 1.4″ (3.6 cm)
- After Rnd 4: 1.75″ (4.4 cm)
- After Rnd 5: 2″ (5.1 cm)
If your pieces are too big, go down to a 2.25 mm hook. If they are too small, go up to a 2.75 mm hook. Being off by 0.25″ (0.6 cm) on a leaf adds up to 1.5″ (3.8 cm) over six leaves on a strand. Match all 13 strands to each other first, and to the stated length second.
Leaf (Make 78)
The leaf is worked in rounds around both sides of a foundation chain. The chain becomes the center vein. Both ends taper to a point.
Foundation: Ch 33.
Rnd 1 (center vein): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 28 ch, hdc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch (tip). Rotate and work along the opposite side of the foundation chain: hdc in next ch, dc in next 28 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. Join with sl st to first sc.
Count: 65 sts (31 per side + 3 at the tip).
Rnd 2 (open side veins): Ch 1. Side A: sc in first st, hdc in next st, [tr in next st, ch 1, sk next st] 13 times, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st. This uses 31 sts.
Tip: sc in next sc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in center tip sc, sc in next sc.
Side B: sc in next st, hdc in next st, [tr in next st, ch 1, sk next st] 13 times, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st. This uses 31 sts.
Base: ch 2, join with sl st to first sc.
Count: 18 sts and 13 ch-1 sps per side, 4 sc and one ch-2 sp at the tip, and one ch-2 sp at the base. That is 40 sts, 26 ch-1 sps, and 2 ch-2 sps.
The tr stitches with ch-1 gaps between them make the slanted openwork ribs that run out from the center vein.
Don’t fasten off. Go straight on to the border (Rounds 3–4) below.
Medallion (Make 78)
Rnd 1: Ch 6, join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join to first sc.
Count: 12 sc.
Rnd 2 (spokes): Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), [dc in next sc, ch 1] 11 times, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.
Count: 12 dc and 12 ch-1 sps.
Rnd 3 (solid ring, conversion round): Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1. [2 sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc] 12 times, join to first sc.
Count: 12 sc (one per dc) + 24 sc (two per ch-1 sp) = 36 sc.
Rnd 4 (loop ring): Ch 1, [sc in next sc, ch 3, sk next 2 sc] 12 times, join to first sc.
Count: 12 sc and 12 ch-3 loops.
Rnd 5 (scalloped edge, conversion round): Sl st in first ch-3 loop. Work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-3 loop around, then join to the first sc.
Count: 12 loops × 5 sts = 60 sts, 12 scallops.
Fasten off and weave in the ends. The center dc of scallop 1 is the top joining point. The center dc of scallop 7, directly opposite, is the bottom joining point.
Make All Pieces
For the full curtain, make the following, all in copper rust:
- Leaves: 6 per strand × 13 strands = 78
- Medallions: 6 per strand × 13 strands = 78
- Tassels: 13
- Pearls: 12 per strand × 13 strands = 156
Layout of one strand (top to bottom):
[rod loop]
Leaf 1
pearl
Medallion 1
pearl
Leaf 2
pearl
Medallion 2
... (repeat leaf / pearl / medallion / pearl)
Leaf 6
pearl
Medallion 6
pearl
[tassel]
Curtain layout (seen from the front):
S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7 S8 S9 S10 S11 S12 S13
|<- 3" (7.6 cm) between strand centers, 12 gaps ->|
All 13 strands are identical and hang side by side, so the leaves line up in straight horizontal rows.
Joining
Each strand is joined with 12 beaded links. That is 11 links between the 12 motifs, plus 1 link from Medallion 6 to the tassel. Each link measures 1″ (2.5 cm) from one motif edge to the next, including the pearl.
Stitch-to-stitch logic:
- String 1 pearl onto a 12″ (30.5 cm) length of yarn.
- Join with sl st in the bottom joining point of the upper piece. On a leaf, use the ch-3 loop at the lower end. On a medallion, use the center dc of scallop 7.
- Ch 2, bch 1, ch 2.
- Sl st in the top joining point of the lower piece: a leaf’s ch-3 loop, or the center dc of scallop 1 on a medallion.
- Fasten off and weave the ends back through the link chains.
Every link uses the same 5 chains. That is what keeps the motif rows level across all 13 strands.
Hanging loop: Join yarn with sl st in the top ch-3 loop of Leaf 1. Ch 30, sl st back into the same loop, then work 1 sc in each of the 30 ch around the loop. Fasten off. The loop is about 3.75″ (9.5 cm) around. It fits over the 1″ (2.5 cm) rod and hangs 1.5″ (3.8 cm) below it.
Tassel: Wrap the yarn 40 times around the 5″ (12.7 cm) card. Tie the top with the last link’s tail, then cut the bottom. Wrap the neck tightly 0.5″ (1.3 cm) below the top, 8 times, and trim the ends even at 5″ (12.7 cm).
Tension advice: Keep the link chains firm and even. Loose chains let the pearls twist sideways and make strands different lengths. Lay each finished strand next to the first strand and compare them link by link.
Strand size checkpoint: 1.5″ (3.8 cm) loop drop + 33″ (83.8 cm) of leaves + 12″ (30.5 cm) of medallions + 12″ (30.5 cm) of links + 5″ (12.7 cm) tassel = 63.5″ (161.3 cm).
Border (Leaf Edging, Rounds 3–4)
The border is worked around each leaf, not around the whole curtain. It gives the leaf its raised, rope-like outline and its two hanging loops. Continue straight on from Rnd 2.
Border gauge: 6.5 sc per inch (13 sc = 2″ / 5.1 cm), measured along the curved edge. Sc worked over tr tops and ch-1 sps spreads a little wider than flat sc.
Rnd 3 (edging, conversion round): Ch 1. Side A: sc in each of the 18 sts and 1 sc in each of the 13 ch-1 sps. Tip: sc in next 2 sc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 2 sc. Side B: sc in each of the 18 sts and 1 sc in each of the 13 ch-1 sps. Base: (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp. Join to the first sc.
Count: 31 sc per side; tip 4 sc (one per tip sc) + 2 sc in the sp = 6 sc; base 2 sc. Total 31 + 6 + 31 + 2 = 70 sc and 2 ch-2 sps.
Rnd 4 (rope edge, trim round): Ch 1. Work rev sc in each sc around. In each ch-2 sp, work (rev sc, ch 3, rev sc). Join and fasten off.
Count: 70 rev sc (one per sc) + 4 rev sc (two in each ch-2 sp) = 74 rev sc and 2 ch-3 loops.
Why the math works: Before the border, half of the 5″ × 1.5″ (12.7 × 3.8 cm) almond outline is about 5.3″ (13.5 cm). Each half takes 31 side sc plus half of the tip and base stitches, which is 35 sc. At 6.5 sc per inch, 35 sc covers 5.4″ (13.7 cm). That is close enough to lie flat, with no cupping and no ruffling. The rev sc in Rnd 4 is worked one per stitch, so it doesn’t change the edge length.
Final Blocking
- Soak all leaves and medallions in cool water for 10 minutes, then press out the water in a towel. Don’t wring them.
- Pin each leaf to 5.5″ × 2″ (14.0 × 5.1 cm). Put a pin in each tip loop and pull the center vein straight.
- Open each tr-and-ch-1 rib with a pin so the slanted openings look even on both sides.
- Pin each medallion to a 2″ (5.1 cm) circle, with a pin in the tip of every scallop.
- Let everything dry completely, which takes about 24 hours.
- Assemble the strands after blocking. Hang them on the rod, mist the tassels, and comb them straight.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each leaf measures 5.5″ × 2″ (14.0 × 5.1 cm) with a straight center vein
- Each leaf has 74 rev sc and a ch-3 loop at both tips
- Each medallion has 12 even scallops and measures 2″ (5.1 cm)
- Every link is ch 2, bch 1, ch 2, with no pearl missing
- All 13 strands measure 63.5″ (161.3 cm) and their motifs line up across the curtain
- Hanging loops slide freely on the rod
- Tassels are trimmed to 5″ (12.7 cm)
- All ends are woven in and hidden
Troubleshooting
- Leaf curls lengthwise: The Rnd 1 chain was too tight. Work the foundation chain with a 3.0 mm hook.
- Leaf ruffles at the edge: Rnd 3 tension is loose. Go down half a hook size for the border only.
- Leaf cups: The tr stitches are short. Pull up each tr to full height before you yarn over.
- Medallion won’t lie flat: Check that Rnd 3 has 36 sc. A missing sc tightens the loop ring.
- Pearls won’t slide: The bead hole is too small. Use a floss threader, or choose beads with 2.5 mm holes.
- Strands differ in length: Recount the link chains and block all the pieces to the same size.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll in a towel, and dry flat before rehanging. Don’t machine wash, because the pearls and tassels can tangle.
Final Notes
The measurement chain keeps this curtain even. Get 7 sc per inch, and the leaf reaches 5″ × 1.5″ (12.7 × 3.8 cm) before the border. The 0.25″ (0.6 cm) border brings it to 5.5″ × 2″ (14.0 × 5.1 cm). Medallions finish at 2″ (5.1 cm) and links at 1″ (2.5 cm), which makes each strand 63.5″ (161.3 cm). Thirteen strands spaced 3″ (7.6 cm) apart fill 38″ (96.5 cm) of rod. Check each stage, and the full curtain will hang straight and even.
Happy crocheting!