This little tree ornament has three soft, scalloped tiers stacked like the branches of a fir. Each tier ends in a row of rounded shells that hangs over the tier below. The tree is flat, but it looks layered and has real depth when it hangs among the branches.
The body is a warm champagne cream and the short single-crochet trunk is olive green. Hang a few on your tree, tie one onto a gift, or stand one on a shelf. The style is quiet and classic, with a lacy vintage look that goes well with gold and natural decorations.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished ornament measures about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) wide and 4.2 in (10.7 cm) tall from the tip to the bottom of the trunk. The hanging loop adds about 1.2 in (3.0 cm). One ornament takes about an hour once you know the rhythm.
You work the whole tree in one piece, top down, in turned rows. Each tier’s scallop row goes into the front loops of a base row. The next tier then grows from the unused back loops of that same row, and that is what creates the layers. The trunk is worked into the back loops at the bottom, and a chain loop finishes the tip. You don’t sew any pieces together.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) wide x 4.2 in (10.7 cm) tall, plus a 1.2 in (3.0 cm) loop
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Sport (#2) cotton
- Hook: 2.75 mm (C-2)
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: Single ornament, no joining
- Piece size: 3.25 in x 4.2 in (8.3 cm x 10.7 cm)
- Size before scallop border: body rows 3.1 in (7.9 cm) wide x 3.2 in (8.1 cm) tall
- Border depth: each scallop row hangs about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) below its base row
Materials
Choose a smooth mercerized cotton or cotton blend in sport weight. It shows the shells clearly, holds a crisp edge after blocking, and doesn’t sag on the branch. Fuzzy or very soft yarns blur the scallops and hide the eyelets. If you make a set, use the same dye lot for all the cream.
- Champagne cream (body, scallops, loop): 5 g, about 15 m
- Olive green (trunk): 2 g, about 6 m
These amounts are for one ornament and include a margin for a gauge test and for weaving in ends.
Tools:
- 2.75 mm (C-2) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- 2 locking stitch markers
- Blocking mat, rust-proof pins, and a spray bottle
- Ruler or tape measure
- Optional: fabric stiffener or light starch spray
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- FLO – front loop only
- BLO – back loop only
- tch – turning chain
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – Shell: Work 5 dc in the same stitch.
Notes: In dc rows, the ch 3 at the start counts as the first dc. In sc rows, the ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Dc gauge: 11 dc and 5 dc rows = 2 in (5.1 cm).
Sc gauge (trunk): 6 sc and 7 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm).
The ornament is small, so the ornament itself is your gauge swatch. Make one complete tree before you start a set. Measure the work flat and unstretched, without pulling the shells open, at each checkpoint:
- After Row 2: 1.6 in (4.1 cm) wide, 0.8 in (2.0 cm) tall
- After Row 6: 2.4 in (6.1 cm) wide across the base row
- After Row 10: 3.1 in (7.9 cm) wide across the base row
- Trunk: 0.8 in (2.0 cm) wide, 1 in (2.5 cm) long
If your piece is too big, go down to a 2.5 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 3 mm hook. If only the shells flare too much, keep the hook and tighten your tension on the scallop rows. A difference of 0.2 in (0.5 cm) at Row 10 is fine, because blocking evens it out.

Pattern
Tier 1 (Top)
Row 1 (RS): With cream, make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 4 dc in the ring. Pull the ring closed and turn. (5 dc)
Row 2 (WS, Tier 1 base row): Ch 3, dc in the same st. Work 2 dc in each of the next 3 sts, then dc in the top of the tch. Turn. (9 dc)
Row 3 (RS, Tier 1 scallop row): Work this whole row in FLO. Ch 1, sc in the first st. Sk 1 st, Shell in the next st, sk 1 st, sc in the next st. Repeat from * to * once more. The last sc goes into the top of the tch. Turn.
(2 shells + 3 sc = 13 sts, made as 5 sts worked into + 8 extra dc from the shells)
The skipped stitches on each side of a shell open into the small eyelets at the base of every scallop.
Tier 2 (Middle)
Row 4 (WS): Fold the Row 3 scallops down toward the RS. The unused back loops of Row 2 now sit on top, nearest you. Ch 3 (counts as the first dc, over the Row 2 tch). Working only into the unused Row 2 loops, dc in each of the next 8 sts. Turn. (9 dc)
This row grows from behind the scallops, so Tier 1’s shells hang freely over the top of Tier 2.
Row 5 (RS): Ch 3, dc in the same st. Dc in each of the next 7 sts, then 2 dc in the top of the tch. Turn. (11 dc)
Row 6 (WS, Tier 2 base row): Ch 3, dc in the same st. Dc in each of the next 9 sts, then 2 dc in the top of the tch. Turn. (13 dc)
Row 7 (RS, Tier 2 scallop row): In FLO, ch 1, sc in the first st. Sk 1, Shell in the next st, sk 1, sc in the next st. Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Turn.
(3 shells + 4 sc = 19 sts, made as 7 sts worked into + 12 extra dc)
Tier 3 (Bottom)
Row 8 (WS): Fold the Row 7 scallops down. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then dc in the unused back loop of each of the next 12 sts of Row 6. Turn. (13 dc)
Row 9 (RS): Ch 3, dc in the same st. Dc in each of the next 11 sts, then 2 dc in the top of the tch. Turn. (15 dc)
Row 10 (WS, Tier 3 base row): Ch 3, dc in the same st. Dc in each of the next 13 sts, then 2 dc in the top of the tch. Turn. (17 dc)
Row 11 (RS, Tier 3 scallop row): In FLO, ch 1, sc in the first st. Sk 1, Shell in the next st, sk 1, sc in the next st. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Fasten off.
(4 shells + 5 sc = 25 sts, made as 9 sts worked into + 16 extra dc)
Trunk
Turn the tree so the WS faces you, and fold the Row 11 scallops away from you. The 17 unused back loops of Row 10 now lie along the bottom edge. Count from the right and mark the 7th loop and the 11th loop. The 5 loops from marker to marker, markers included, are the center stitches.
Row 1 (WS): Join olive green in the 7th loop. Ch 1, then sc in the same loop and in each of the next 4 loops. Turn. (5 sc)
Rows 2–7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, then turn. (5 sc)
Fasten off after Row 7. The trunk is 0.8 in (2.0 cm) wide and 1 in (2.5 cm) long. The bottom scallops cover its top 0.4 in (1.0 cm), so 0.6 in (1.5 cm) shows below the tree. Because the trunk starts behind the scallops, it looks tucked under the lowest branches.
Border: Scallop Edges and Hanging Loop
On this single ornament, the border is the three scallop rows plus the hanging loop. Each scallop row is the lower edge of its tier, and each tier has only one bordered side, its bottom edge.
Border gauge: One shell repeat (sk 1, Shell, sk 1, sc) uses 4 base stitches and covers about 0.73 in (1.9 cm) of the base row. Each scallop is about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) deep.
Bottom edge counts per tier:
- Tier 1: 9 base sts → 2 shells + 3 sc = 13 sts
- Tier 2: 13 base sts → 3 shells + 4 sc = 19 sts
- Tier 3: 17 base sts → 4 shells + 5 sc = 25 sts
Why the math works: Each repeat uses 4 stitches, and the opening sc needs 1 more. So N shells need a base row of 4N + 1 stitches: 4 x 2 + 1 = 9, 4 x 3 + 1 = 13, and 4 x 4 + 1 = 17. Each increase row adds exactly 2 stitches, one at each edge, so every base row lands on one of these numbers. Every scallop row starts and ends with an sc, so both corners of each tier are neat and match.
Hanging loop: With the RS facing, join cream with a sl st in the top of the middle dc of Row 1, at the tip. Ch 18, then sl st in the same st. Turn and sl st in each of the 18 ch back around the loop, then sl st in the base and fasten off. (18 ch + 18 sl st) The doubled cord is about 1.2 in (3.0 cm) long and stays firm without twisting.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the WS, hiding them inside the dc rows and the trunk.
- Spray the ornament until it’s evenly damp but not dripping.
- Lay it RS up on the mat and smooth each scallop row down over the tier below it.
- Pin the bottom tier to 3.25 in (8.3 cm) wide, with one pin through the center of each shell to keep the scallops round.
- Pin the middle tier to about 2.6 in (6.6 cm) and the top tier to about 1.8 in (4.6 cm).
- Check that the tip-to-trunk height is 4.2 in (10.7 cm), then pin the trunk straight and centered.
- If you want, mist lightly with stiffener or starch.
- Let it dry completely, usually 6–12 hours, before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Row 2 has 9 dc, Row 6 has 13 dc, and Row 10 has 17 dc.
- The tiers have 2, 3, and 4 shells from top to bottom.
- Every scallop row starts and ends with an sc.
- All scallops sit on the RS and overlap the tier below.
- The trunk has 5 sc in each of its 7 rows and is centered under the middle shells.
- The hanging loop is centered at the tip and doesn’t twist.
- The ornament measures 3.25 in (8.3 cm) x 4.2 in (10.7 cm), without the loop.
- No tails show on the RS.
Troubleshooting
The scallops sit on the back: You worked a scallop row with the WS facing. Scallop rows are always the odd-numbered RS rows 3, 7, and 11, worked in FLO.
The next tier won’t start cleanly: You worked the scallop row through both loops. Rip it back and redo it in FLO so the back loops stay free.
The shells don’t fit: Count the base row. It must have 9, 13, or 17 stitches. Usually a missed dc in the top of the tch is the problem.
The tiers ruffle or cup: Your shells are looser than your dc rows. Tighten your tension on the shells, or use a hook 0.25 mm smaller for the scallop rows only.
The tiers look narrow and stiff: Your dc rows are too tight. Go up a hook size for the body rows and check the Row 6 checkpoint again.
The trunk is off-center: Count the 17 loops of Row 10 again. The trunk always uses loops 7 to 11.
The tree leans: Re-block it with a ruler along the center line, and pin the tip directly above the trunk.
The eyelets close up: Make sure you skipped a stitch on both sides of every shell.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll the ornament in a towel to remove water, and dry it flat. Re-block and re-stiffen as needed, and store it flat between sheets of tissue so the scallops keep their shape.

Final Notes
The measurement chain is short and predictable. Row 2 sets the top tier at 1.6 in (4.1 cm), Row 6 sets the middle tier at 2.4 in (6.1 cm), and Row 10 sets the bottom tier at 3.1 in (7.9 cm). The shells then spread the bottom edge to 3.25 in (8.3 cm). The 0.6 in (1.5 cm) of trunk that shows brings the height to 4.2 in (10.7 cm), and the 1.2 in (3.0 cm) loop finishes it. If your first tree meets every checkpoint, the rest of your set will match it.
Happy crocheting!