This holder keeps plastic grocery bags tidy in one slim tube that hangs on a hook. You push bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time from the narrow opening at the bottom. The open mesh shows you how full it is, and four bands of raised puff stitches add texture.
The sample is made in a soft cornflower blue cotton. A terracotta version looks just as good, and the pattern is the same for any solid color. The style is simple and practical, made for a kitchen, pantry, or laundry wall.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished tube is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide when laid flat (12 in / 30.5 cm around) and 14 in (35.6 cm) long. With the ring attached, it hangs about 16.25 in (41.3 cm) from the hook to the bottom edge.
You work the tube in one piece from the bottom up, in joined rounds, without turning. A short single-crochet base shapes the narrow bottom opening. Next come blocks of mesh and puff bands, then a solid rim. Last, you cover a ring in single crochet and sew it to the back of the rim.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat x 14 in (35.6 cm) long; 16.25 in (41.3 cm) including ring
- Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 tube + 1 covered ring, joined into one holder
- Layout: Single standalone tube; no assembly grid
- Circumference: 48 sts = 12 in (30.5 cm)
- Size before border: 13 in (33.0 cm) long after Rnd 32
- Border depth: Top rim 1 in (2.5 cm); the bottom edge is a slip-stitch round that adds no measurable length
- Bottom opening: 24 sts = 6 in (15.2 cm) around, about 3 in (7.6 cm) across when flat
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape when the tube is stuffed full and doesn’t stretch out over time. Avoid fluffy or very splitty yarns, because they hide the puff stitches and blur the mesh holes.
- Main color (cornflower blue, or terracotta for the alternate version): 110 g, about 200 m (219 yd)
Tools and notions:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- One 2.5 in (6.4 cm) plastic or metal ring (outer diameter)
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Tape measure
- Rust-proof pins for blocking
The yarn amount includes a margin of about 15 percent for your gauge swatch and small tension differences. One 100 g ball is often just short, so buy two.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sk: skip
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sp: space
- rnd(s): round(s)
- beg: beginning
- RS: right side
Special stitch: Puff stitch (puff). (Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop to about 0.5 in / 1.3 cm tall) 3 times. You now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops, then ch 1 to close. The closing ch is the top of the puff. It does not count as a separate stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge:
- 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc and in mesh pattern
- 4 sc rnds = 1 in (2.5 cm)
- 8 mesh rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), so each mesh rnd is 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
- One puff band (3 rnds) = 1 in (2.5 cm)
Test first: Before you start the holder, ch 21 and work a flat swatch. Make 4 rows of sc, 4 rows of mesh, and 3 rows of the puff band. Check that 16 sts measure 4 in (10.2 cm).
Checkpoints while you work (measure the tube flat, straight up the side):
- After Rnd 4: circumference 12 in (30.5 cm); base height about 1 in (2.5 cm)
- After Rnd 10: 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- After Rnd 16: 6 in (15.2 cm)
- After Rnd 22: 8.5 in (21.6 cm)
- After Rnd 28: 11 in (27.9 cm)
- After Rnd 32: 13 in (33.0 cm)
- After Rnd 36: 14 in (35.6 cm)
If your work is too big, the tube will be wide and floppy. Go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, bags won’t fit easily. Go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Height matters less. If your rounds come out taller or shorter, keep the same round counts and note your final length.
Bottom Base (Rounds 1–4)
Foundation: Ch 24 and sl st in the first ch to form a ring. Don’t twist the chain. This ring is the bottom opening.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st in first sc to join. (24 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times, join. (32 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times, join. (40 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times, join. (48 sts)
You add 8 sts per round. That is more than a flat circle needs, so the base curves up into a gentle cup. This makes the rounded taper at the bottom of the holder. Place a marker in the joining st and move it up each round.
Checkpoint: Circumference 12 in (30.5 cm). Flat width 6 in (15.2 cm).
Body (Rounds 5–32)
The body is four repeats of a mesh block and a puff band, then a taller final mesh block. Work every round with the RS facing you. Do not turn.
Mesh Block (3 rounds)
First mesh rnd (worked into sc): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk next st, (dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 23 times, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (24 dc + 24 ch-1 sps = 48 sts)
Following mesh rnds: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk ch-1 sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp) 23 times, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (24 dc + 24 ch-1 sps = 48 sts)
Each dc sits directly above the dc below it, so the square holes line up in neat vertical columns.
Puff Band (3 rounds)
Rnd A (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next ch-1 sp, (sc in next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp) 23 times, join. (24 sc in dc + 24 sc in sps = 48 sts; 0 added)
Rnd B (puff round): Ch 1, (puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts) 12 times, join to top of first puff. (12 puffs + 36 sc = 48 sts)
Rnd C: Ch 1, sc in each st around, working into the closing ch at the top of each puff, join. (48 sts)
The puffs form on the RS facing you, so they pop outward. The 3 sc between them keep 12 puffs evenly spaced around the tube, so 6 show across the front.
Round-by-Round Order
- Rnds 5–7: Mesh block (Rnd 5 is a first mesh rnd). (48 sts)
- Rnds 8–10: Puff band. (48 sts)
- Rnds 11–13: Mesh block. (48 sts)
- Rnds 14–16: Puff band. (48 sts)
- Rnds 17–19: Mesh block. (48 sts)
- Rnds 20–22: Puff band. (48 sts)
- Rnds 23–25: Mesh block. (48 sts)
- Rnds 26–28: Puff band. (48 sts)
- Rnds 29–32: Mesh block, 4 rounds this time. (48 sts)
After every puff band, start the next mesh block with the “first mesh rnd” instructions, since you are working into sc again.
Height math: the base is 1 in. Add 4 x (1.5 in mesh + 1 in puff band) = 10 in, plus 2 in for the final mesh block. That makes 13 in (33.0 cm) before the rim.
Hanging Ring
Cover the ring: Make a slip knot on your hook. Hold the 2.5 in (6.4 cm) ring and work sc tightly over it all the way around. Push the stitches together as you go. You need about 44 sc to cover it completely with no gaps. Sl st in the first sc to join. Leave an 18 in (45.7 cm) tail and fasten off.
Checkpoint: The covered ring measures about 3 in (7.6 cm) across on the outside. No plastic or metal should show through.
You attach the ring after the rim is done (see Border).
Border
Border gauge: The rim uses the same sc gauge as the base: 4 sts per inch and 4 rnds per inch. When the tube is flat, the 48 sts split into 24 front sts and 24 back sts, which is 6 in (15.2 cm) per side.
Top Rim (Rounds 33–36)
Rnd 33 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next ch-1 sp, (sc in next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp) 23 times, join. (24 sc in dc + 24 sc in sps = 48 sts; 0 added)
Rnds 34–36: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sts; 24 front + 24 back when flat)
Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why the math works: Every mesh round has 48 sts (24 dc + 24 ch-1 sps). Working 1 sc into each one gives 48 sc, with nothing added or lost. At 4 sts per inch, 48 sts measure 12 in (30.5 cm) around, or 6 in (15.2 cm) flat. That matches the base and body, so the rim stays straight and doesn’t flare or pull in. The 4 rounds add 1 in (2.5 cm), which brings the tube to 14 in (35.6 cm).
Bottom Edge
Turn the tube upside down. Join yarn with a sl st in any remaining loop of the foundation chain. Sl st loosely in each foundation loop around, then join. (24 sl sts)
This firms up the bottom opening so it keeps its round shape and doesn’t stretch out as bags are pulled through. It adds no measurable length. Fasten off and weave in.
Attach the Ring
Flatten the tube and find the 6 center sts of the back (sts 10–15 of the 24 back sts). Hold the ring behind the rim so its lower edge overlaps the rim by 0.75 in (1.9 cm). Thread the ring tail onto the tapestry needle. Whipstitch through 6 sc on the ring and the matching 6 rim sts, going through Rnds 35 and 36 of the rim. Go over the same spot a second time for strength, then weave in the tail.
Checkpoint: Hold the holder up by the ring. It should hang straight, without tilting, and measure 16.25 in (41.3 cm) long.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the sc rounds, where they hide best.
- Wet the holder in cool water and gently squeeze out the extra. Don’t wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove more water.
- Slide a rolled towel or a 4 in (10.2 cm) wide cardboard tube inside so the holder dries round.
- Ease it to 14 in (35.6 cm) long and pin the rim straight.
- Pinch each puff gently so it stands up. Line up the mesh columns so they run straight.
- Let it dry completely before you hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Flat width is 6 in (15.2 cm) at the base, body, and rim
- Tube length is 14 in (35.6 cm)
- Each puff band has 12 puffs, evenly spaced
- Mesh columns run straight, with no twisting
- Bottom opening is 24 sts and about 3 in (7.6 cm) across flat
- Ring is fully covered and stitched to the back center
- Holder hangs straight at 16.25 in (41.3 cm)
- All ends are woven in securely
Troubleshooting
The tube twists or spirals. Make sure you join into the 3rd ch of each beg ch-4. Also check that the first dc of each round goes into the correct dc, not the ch-1 space.
The puffs are flat or uneven. Pull up each loop to the same height, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm), and close firmly with the ch 1.
The bottom ruffles instead of curving. Your base is too loose. Work Rnds 1–4 with a 4.5 mm hook.
The rim flares. Check that Rnd 33 has exactly 48 sts. You may have worked 2 sc into some ch-1 sps.
The holder tilts on the hook. Remove the ring and sew it back exactly on the center back sts.
Bags fall out of the bottom. Work the bottom-edge sl sts more firmly to snug up the opening.
Care
Hand wash, or machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool water. Reshape and lay flat to dry. Avoid hot dryers, which can shrink cotton and shorten the tube.
Final Notes
Everything comes back to one number: 48 sts. Rnds 1–4 grow from 24 to 48 sts, giving you 12 in (30.5 cm) around. Every mesh round keeps 24 dc + 24 ch-1 sps = 48 sts. Every puff band turns those back into 48 sc, adds 12 puffs, and ends with 48 sc. The rim keeps 48 sc for 6 in (15.2 cm) flat.
In length, the tube builds from 1 in to 3.5 in, 6 in, 8.5 in, 11 in, and 13 in, then reaches 14 in (35.6 cm) with the rim. With the ring attached, the holder hangs 16.25 in (41.3 cm). If your checkpoints match, your finished holder will match too.
Happy crocheting!