This hanging holder stores three spare rolls in a small strip of wall space. It has three round baskets stacked one above the other and held by two side straps. The straps meet in a loop around a wooden ring, so you can hang the holder on any hook or towel knob.
Each basket is soft peach with a cream zigzag band around the middle. The look is warm and a little retro, and it suits neutral bathrooms with wood and plant accents. The fabric is dense single crochet, so the baskets keep their shape without stiffener.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall. The finished holder hangs about 17 in (43.2 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket.
Here is the order of work. First you crochet three baskets from the bottom up: a flat base, then a straight wall with a tapestry chevron band. Next you make two long single crochet straps and edge them. Then you sew the straps to the baskets and wrap them around the ring. Last, you finish each basket rim with a crab stitch border.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished hanging length: about 17 in (43.2 cm), including the ring
- Basket size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across × 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate (tapestry colorwork, crab stitch)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets + 2 straps), plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 1 column × 3 baskets, stacked vertically
- Gap between baskets: 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Basket wall height before border: 3.25 in (8.3 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), one round of crab stitch on each rim
Materials
Yarn advice: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton-acrylic blend. Cotton makes firm, matte stitches that hold their shape and are fine in a damp room. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarn, because the baskets will sag under the weight of the rolls.
The amounts below assume about 155 m per 100 g:
- Peach (main color): 120 g / 186 m
- Cream (contrast color): 30 g / 47 m
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- One 2 in (5.1 cm) wooden ring
- Tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Pins or clips for joining
These quantities include a margin of about 25% for your gauge swatch, carried strands, and sewing.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- MR – magic ring
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- P – peach
- C – cream
Crab stitch (reverse sc): Work from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. This makes a twisted, rope-like edge.
Tapestry color change: Work the last sc before the change until 2 loops are left on the hook. Yarn over with the new color and pull through. Lay the color you are not using along the tops of the stitches and work over it, so it stays hidden inside the fabric.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in joined rounds.
That works out to 3.5 sts and 4 rnds per inch. Everything in this pattern depends on it: base size, wall height, and how well the strap rows line up with the wall rounds.
Test one piece first. Make one full basket before you start the others. Check it at these points:
- After Rnd 5 (30 sts): base about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across
- After Rnd 10 (60 sts): base about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and lying flat
- After Rnd 15: wall about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall, measured from the BLO ridge
- After Rnd 23: wall 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall
- After the border: wall 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
If the basket is too big, the roll will slide around and the wall may slump. Go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, a roll will not fit. A standard roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. Go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Do not change stitch counts. The chevron repeat and strap positions rely on exactly 60 sts.
Basket (Make 3)
Base
Use P. Join every round with a sl st to the first sc. Ch 1 at the start of each round; it does not count as a stitch.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) × 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) × 6. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) × 6. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) × 6. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) × 6. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) × 6. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: (Sc 7, inc) × 6. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: (Sc 8, inc) × 6. (60 sts)
Check: the base should be 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and flat. If it ruffles, your increases are too loose. If it cups, they are too tight.
Wall
Rnd 11 (turning round): Working in BLO, sc in each st around. (60 sts)
Working in the back loop makes a ridge, and the wall turns up from here. Put a marker in the first st of this round (st 1) and another in st 31. These are the two strap positions, directly opposite each other.
Rnds 12–15: Sc in each st around. (60 sts per round)
Chevron Band (Rnds 16–20)
Join C at the start of Rnd 16 and carry both colors through Rnd 20. Each round has 6 repeats of 10 sts, so the 5-round zigzag forms 6 peaks and 6 valleys around the basket.
Rnd 16: (P4, C2, P4) × 6. (60 sts)
Rnd 17: (P3, C4, P3) × 6. (60 sts)
Rnd 18: (P2, C2, P2, C2, P2) × 6. (60 sts)
Rnd 19: (P1, C2, P4, C2, P1) × 6. (60 sts)
Rnd 20: (C2, P6, C2) × 6. (60 sts)
Each repeat adds up to 10 sts in every round, so every round stays at 60 sts. In Rnd 20, the C2 at the end of one repeat sits next to the C2 at the start of the next. That makes a 4-st-wide peak, the same width as the 4-st valley in Rnd 17, so the zigzag line looks even.
Cut C at the end of Rnd 20, leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail to weave in.
Upper Wall
Rnds 21–23: With P, sc in each st around. (60 sts per round)
Check: the wall is now 13 rounds tall (Rnds 11–23), which is 3.25 in (8.3 cm).
Fasten off P, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. Keep the live loop on a marker; you will come back to it for the border. Leave both strap markers in place.
The joined-round seam lines up with st 1, so the strap will cover the small color jog.
Strap (Make 2)
The strap is worked in short rows. Its rows line up with the wall rounds, which makes sewing simple.
With P, ch 4.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (3 sts)
Rows 2–68: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (3 sts per row)
At 4 rows per inch, 68 rows = 17 in (43.2 cm). The strap is 3 sts wide, about 0.9 in (2.3 cm).
Edging: Do not fasten off. Ch 1 and sl st evenly around the whole strap:
- 1 sl st in each row-end down each long side (68 per side)
- 1 sl st in each st across each short end (3 per end)
Total: 68 + 68 + 3 + 3 = 142 sl sts. Join and fasten off, leaving a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing.
The edging tidies the row-ends so they sew more cleanly. It does not change the strap’s width or length.
Strap map (counting from Row 1):
- Rows 1–14: Basket 3 (bottom)
- Rows 15–20: gap, 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Rows 21–34: Basket 2 (middle)
- Rows 35–40: gap, 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Rows 41–54: Basket 1 (top)
- Rows 55–68: top leg; Rows 63–68 wrap around the ring
Mark the first row of each section with a scrap of yarn before you start sewing.
Make All Pieces
Before joining you should have:
- 3 baskets: each 60 sts around, Rnds 1–23 done, border not yet worked
- 2 straps: each 68 rows, edged
- 1 wooden ring: 2 in (5.1 cm)
The color work happens only in the baskets. Each basket uses peach for the base, the lower and upper wall, and the rim, and cream only in Rnds 16–20. Both straps are all peach.
Layout (front view):
( ring )
/ \
strap A strap B
| [Basket 1] |
| |
| [Basket 2] |
| |
| [Basket 3] |
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with the P tail through the outer loops. Join one row of strap to one round of wall.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: The wall has 13 rounds before the border (Rnds 11–23). The basket section of each strap has 14 rows. Rows 1–13 are sewn to Rnds 11–23, and Row 14 is left free for now. After the border is worked, Row 14 is sewn to the border round. Since both the strap and the wall work up at 4 rows/rounds per inch, nothing needs to be eased in.
Steps:
- Basket 3. Pin Strap A to the outside of Basket 3, centered on the st 1 column. Row 1 should sit on the Rnd 11 ridge. Whipstitch both long edges of Rows 1–13 to Rnds 11–23. Repeat with Strap B on the st 31 column.
- Basket 2. Leave Rows 15–20 free; this is the 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gap. Sew Rows 21–33 of each strap to Rnds 11–23 of Basket 2, on the matching columns.
- Basket 1. Leave Rows 35–40 free. Sew Rows 41–53 of each strap to Rnds 11–23 of Basket 1.
- Ring. Bring both top legs up and pass Rows 63–68 of each strap through the wooden ring from front to back. Fold them down onto Rows 57–62 and whipstitch all around. Strap A and Strap B should sit side by side on the ring.
Tension: Sew firmly but don’t pull. Each stitch should just close the gap between the edges. If you sew too tightly the wall will pucker; if you sew too loosely the straps will lift away when the basket is full.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder from the ring. Each gap should be 1.5 in (3.8 cm). The length from the top of Basket 1 down to the base of Basket 3 should be 13.5 in (34.3 cm): three baskets at 3.5 in (8.9 cm) plus two gaps at 1.5 in (3.8 cm). The baskets should hang level and not tilt.
Border
Border gauge: Crab stitch is worked 1 st into each stitch, the same as the sc gauge of 3.5 sts per inch. It adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of height.
Work this on each basket:
Rnd 24: Put the live P loop back on the hook. Ch 1. Working from left to right, crab stitch in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first st. (60 sts)
Count per half: The two strap columns split the rim into two halves of 30 sts each:
- Front half: st 1 to st 30 = 30 sts
- Back half: st 31 to st 60 = 30 sts
- Total: 30 + 30 = 60 sts
The strap columns are counted as st 1 and st 31. They belong to the halves, not to a separate count, so nothing is counted twice.
Fasten off and weave in the end. Now whipstitch Row 14 (Basket 3), Row 34 (Basket 2), and Row 54 (Basket 1) of each strap to the crab stitch at the strap columns.
Why the math works: The border uses one stitch per existing stitch, 60 into 60, so the rim stays 17 in (43.2 cm) around and does not flare or pull in. Thirteen wall rounds plus one border round makes 14 rounds, which matches the 14-row basket section of each strap. Together they give 3.25 in (8.3 cm) + 0.25 in (0.6 cm) = 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends inside the walls, going through the carried strands.
- Mist each basket lightly with water until it is damp but not wet.
- Stuff each basket with a toilet roll or a folded towel about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide so the wall stands straight.
- Shape each base flat and round, and press the BLO ridge into a crisp edge.
- Lay the straps straight and smooth them so they are an even 0.9 in (2.3 cm) wide.
- Let everything dry completely, about 24 hours, before hanging.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Each basket has 60 sts around, with 30 on each half between the strap columns
- [ ] Base 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across, wall 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall after the border
- [ ] Six even chevron peaks on each basket, with no carried strands showing
- [ ] Straps 68 rows long and edged with 142 sl sts
- [ ] Gaps 1.5 in (3.8 cm) each
- [ ] Ring loop doubled and sewn securely
- [ ] Baskets hang level and each holds a roll snugly
- [ ] All ends woven in and secure
Troubleshooting
Cream shows through the peach. The carried strand is sitting too high. Keep it along the tops of the stitches and wrap it with every yarn over.
The chevron leans in a spiral. You worked a spiral instead of joining each round. Join with a sl st every round so each repeat stacks straight.
The wall flares outward. Your tension loosened up the wall. Rework the round with a tighter grip, or switch to a 4.5 mm hook for the wall only.
A basket tilts forward. The straps are not opposite each other. Count again: the strap columns must be st 1 and st 31.
The straps stretch over time. Cotton relaxes under weight. Sew a second line of whipstitch down the center of each sewn strap section.
The rim curls inward. Your crab stitch is too tight. Loosen up, or use a hook one size larger for Rnd 24.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat with a roll inside each basket. Don’t tumble dry, because heat can shrink the cotton and pull the straps out of line.
Final Notes
Here is how the measurements link up. Gauge is 14 sc and 16 rnds to 4 in (10.2 cm). That gives a 60-st base 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and a 13-round wall 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall. The 0.25 in (0.6 cm) crab stitch border brings the wall to 3.5 in (8.9 cm). Each strap’s 14-row basket section matches that height, and the 6-row gaps add 1.5 in (3.8 cm) between baskets. Altogether the holder hangs about 17 in (43.2 cm). If your gauge is right, everything else follows.
Happy crocheting!