This hanging holder stores three spare rolls on one wall hook. Each pocket is a rounded half-bowl. Open rays fan up from the bottom like a sunburst, and above them a solid band and a rope-textured rim keep the pocket’s shape.
The sample uses one peach-coral cotton, which looks warm and natural against white rolls, light walls and green plants. A small wooden ring at the top completes the boho look. All instructions use US crochet terms.
The finished holder is about 8.5 in (21.6 cm) wide and about 23.5 in (59.7 cm) long from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest pocket. Each pocket holds one standard roll.
Each pocket has two parts: a cupped front worked in turned rows from a magic ring, and a flat semicircular back. You crochet the front and back together, add a two-round rim, and then sew the pockets onto two long straps that wrap around the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 8.5 in (21.6 cm) wide × about 23.5 in (59.7 cm) long, ring included
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 8 (3 pocket fronts, 3 pocket backs, 2 straps)
- Layout: 3 pockets stacked vertically, 6 in (15.2 cm) from rim to rim
- Pocket size: 8.5 in (21.6 cm) wide × 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall × 4.25 in (10.8 cm) deep
- Pocket height before border: 4.25 in (10.8 cm)
- Border depth: about 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth, firm 100% cotton or cotton blend in worsted weight. Cotton holds the bowl shape better than acrylic and doesn’t sag under a roll.
- Peach-coral: 150 g, about 255 m (at roughly 85 m per 50 g)
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– 2 in (5.1 cm) wooden ring
– Tapestry needle
– 4 stitch markers
– Rust-proof pins
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
The yarn amount includes a margin of about 25% for your gauge swatch and seaming.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- rev sc – reverse single crochet
- MR – magic ring
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – rev sc (crab stitch): Working from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. This makes the rope-like rim.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc × 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). Eight rows of dc measure about 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
Make one complete pocket (front, back, join and rim) before making the rest. Measure it at each checkpoint below.
- Front after Row 4: about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ring to the edge.
- Front after Row 25: each straight edge made of row ends measures about 6.75 in (17.1 cm).
- Back after Row 10: about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall.
- Back after Row 19: 8.5 in (21.6 cm) across the straight edge and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.
If your pieces are too big: use a 4.5 mm hook. If they are too small: use a 5.5 mm hook. Don’t change stitch counts, because the front and back have to match exactly.
Pocket Front (make 3)
The front is worked in turned rows. The magic ring sits at the bottom center of the pocket and the rows fan out to make a half-bowl.
Row 1 (RS): Make an MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), work 6 dc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and turn. (7 dc)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same st, then work 2 dc in each st across, ending in the top of the turning ch. Turn. (14 dc)
Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in the next dc, ch 1, dc in the next dc; repeat from * across, working the last dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. (14 dc, 13 ch-1 sps)
Row 4: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in the next dc, ch 2, dc in the next dc; repeat from * across. Turn. (14 dc, 13 ch-2 sps)
Rows 3 and 4 form the open sunburst rays.
Row 5 (conversion row): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a stitch), hdc in the first dc, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, hdc in the next dc; repeat from * 13 times, ending in the 3rd ch of the turning ch. Turn. (14 hdc in dc + 13 hdc in sps = 27 hdc)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st; repeat from * 9 times. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st; repeat from * 9 times. Turn. (45 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st; repeat from * 9 times. Turn. (54 sc)
Rows 9–25: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (54 sc in each row)
Because Rows 9–25 have no increases, the fabric curls forward into a bowl. Fasten off at the end of Row 25, which is a RS row.
Edge check: Each straight edge made of row ends goes from the top corner down to the ring. It contains 20 sc rows, 1 hdc row and 4 dc rows.
Pocket Back (make 3)
The back is a flat half-circle of sc.
Row 1 (RS): Make an MR, ch 1, work 4 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and turn. (4 sc)
Rows 2–19: Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc in the next (row number − 2) sts, 2 sc in the next st; repeat from * 3 times. Turn.
Each row adds 3 stitches, so Row n has 3n + 1 sc:
| Row | Sts | Row | Sts | Row | Sts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | 7 | 8 | 25 | 14 | 43 |
| 3 | 10 | 9 | 28 | 15 | 46 |
| 4 | 13 | 10 | 31 | 16 | 49 |
| 5 | 16 | 11 | 34 | 17 | 52 |
| 6 | 19 | 12 | 37 | 18 | 55 |
| 7 | 22 | 13 | 40 | 19 | 58 |
For example, Row 2 is sc in the first st, then 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, for 7 sc. Fasten off after Row 19. (58 sc on the curved edge; 19 row ends on each half of the straight edge)
Straps (make 2)
Foundation: Ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 sc)
Rows 2–100: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (5 sc in each row)
Each strap measures 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide × 22.2 in (56.4 cm) long. Place markers at the top of Rows 14, 41, 68 and 92. Fasten off.
Make All Pieces
All 8 pieces use peach-coral:
- 3 pocket fronts
- 3 pocket backs
- 2 straps
Layout (wall view):
( ring )
/ \
strap strap
[==== Pocket 1 ====]
| |
[==== Pocket 2 ====]
| |
[==== Pocket 3 ====]
Joining
Front to back
- Hold one front and one back WS together, with the front facing you and the open edges lined up at the top.
- Join the yarn at the right top corner, through the end of front Row 25 and the first st of back Row 19.
- Working through both layers, sc down the front’s first row-end edge. Work 1 sc in each of the 20 sc row ends, 1 sc in the hdc row end and 2 sc in each of the 4 dc row ends. That is 29 sc.
- Pass the bottom ring and work up the second edge the same way in reverse, for another 29 sc.
The seam totals 58 sc, exactly matching the 58 sts on the back’s curved edge. Join one stitch to one stitch and don’t skip or add any. Keep your tension even and relaxed so the seam curves smoothly instead of puckering. Fasten off.
Checkpoint: The joined pocket measures 8.5 in (21.6 cm) wide, 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall and about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) deep.
Straps to pockets
- Lay both straps flat with the WS up and the bottom ends (Row 1) at the bottom. Then lay the pockets face down on top of them, with the back panels touching the straps.
- Place each strap so its outer long edge sits 0.5 in (1.3 cm) in from the side corner of the pocket.
- Bottom pocket: Line up strap Rows 1–14 on the back, with the top of Row 14 level with the top of the rim. This covers about 3.1 in (7.9 cm).
- Middle pocket: Use strap Rows 28–41, with the Row 41 marker at the rim.
- Top pocket: Use strap Rows 55–68, with the Row 68 marker at the rim.
- Whipstitch both long edges and the bottom end of each strap section through the back panel only.
This leaves 13 free rows, 2.9 in (7.4 cm), between pockets. The pockets sit 6 in (15.2 cm) apart from rim to rim, with a gap of 1.25 in (3.2 cm) between the bottom of one pocket and the rim of the next.
Ring
Rows 69–92 stay free, about 5.3 in (13.5 cm) long, and form the V. Pass Rows 93–100 of both straps through the ring from front to back, side by side. That section is about 1.8 in (4.6 cm). Fold it down and whipstitch Row 100 across the back of Row 85.
Checkpoint: The holder measures about 23.5 in (59.7 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest pocket.
Border (Pocket Rim)
Sew the strap ends back onto a pocket last, after its rim is finished, or work the rim before you attach the straps.
Border gauge: 4 sc per in (2.5 cm), the same as the main gauge.
Rnd 1: With the RS facing, join the yarn in the first st of front Row 25 and work around the top opening:
- Front edge: Sc in each of the 54 front sts. (54 sc)
- First half of the back’s straight edge: Sc in the next 6 row ends, skip 1, sc in the next 6, skip 1, sc in the next 5. (17 sc over 19 row ends)
- Second half: Sc in the next 5 row ends, skip 1, sc in the next 6, skip 1, sc in the next 6. (17 sc)
- Join with a sl st to the first sc. (54 + 17 + 17 = 88 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (88 rev sc)
Why the math works:
– The 54 rim stitches on the front equal the front’s own Row 25 count. At gauge that is 13.5 in (34.3 cm), close to the curve of a half-circle 8.5 in (21.6 cm) across.
– The back’s straight edge is 8.5 in (21.6 cm) long. At 4 sc per in, it needs 34 sc. Working 1 sc in all 38 row ends would make the edge ruffle, which is why you skip 4.
– The opening measures 13.5 + 8.5 = 22 in (55.9 cm), or 88 sts ÷ 4.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the seams.
- Mist the whole holder with water until it is damp but not soaked.
- Put a roll wrapped in a plastic bag into each pocket to shape the bowls.
- Pin the straps flat and straight, and make sure the strap sections between pockets measure 2.9 in (7.4 cm).
- Gently press the rays open with your fingers so the gaps look even.
- Let the holder dry flat for at least 24 hours, then remove the rolls.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each front has 54 sts on the rim and 29 sc on each row-end edge.
- Each back ends with 58 sts.
- Each rim has 88 sts in both rounds.
- All three pockets measure 8.5 in (21.6 cm) wide.
- The pockets are spaced evenly, 6 in (15.2 cm) from rim to rim.
- The strap seams go through the back panels only.
- The holder hangs straight, with no twist at the ring.
Troubleshooting
The front ruffles instead of cupping: Your sc rows are too loose. Go down 0.5 mm and redo Rows 9–25.
The back doesn’t match the seam: Recount Row 19 (it should have 58 sts) and the front’s row ends (29 per side).
The rim waves: Check that you skipped 4 row ends on the back edge.
The rays look closed: Make sure you worked ch-2 spaces in Row 4, not ch-1.
The holder tilts: The strap positions don’t match. Compare the marker rows on both straps.
The pockets sag: Use a tighter gauge, or choose a firmer cotton.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the water with a towel, and dry flat with the pockets reshaped around rolls. Don’t machine dry.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other:
– Gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
– Front: 54 sts at the rim = 13.5 in (34.3 cm), with 29 row-end sts per side.
– Back: 58 sts on the curve, matching the front’s 58 seam sts. The straight edge is 8.5 in (21.6 cm).
– Rim: 88 sts = 22 in (55.9 cm).
– Spacing: 27 strap rows = 6 in (15.2 cm) between rims.
– Finished length: about 23.5 in (59.7 cm).
Check each of these numbers as you go and all three pockets will come out the same size.
Happy crocheting!