This hanging paper towel holder is a soft, cottage-style twist on a kitchen basic. One flat cream cord folds over a wall peg into a neat inverted V, wraps around two wooden dowels, and carries two little lavender sprigs. The sprigs have puffy purple bobble buds and sage-green leaves.
The palette is calm: warm cream for the strap, lavender purple for the buds, and muted sage for the stems and leaves. The upper dowel holds a standard paper towel roll. The lower dowel is a handy bar for a tea towel.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The assembled holder is about 14 in (35.6 cm) wide and about 15 in (38.1 cm) tall from peg to lower dowel. The strap measures 44 1/8 in x 3/4 in (112.1 cm x 1.9 cm) after its border.
To make it, you crochet one long strap in three rows of single crochet. Then you make two bobble lavender spikes with stems and six leaves, sew the sprigs on, and work a slip-stitch border around the strap. Last, you block the strap and wrap it around the dowels.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (assembled): about 14 in (35.6 cm) wide x 15 in (38.1 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 9 crocheted pieces: 1 strap, 2 lavender spikes with stems, 4 large leaves, 2 small leaves
- Layout: One strap folded at its center over a peg, forming an inverted V, with 1 sprig on each diagonal
- Strap size before border: 44 in x 0.6 in (111.8 cm x 1.5 cm)
- Border depth: about 1/16 in (0.2 cm) per edge
- Strap size after border: 44 1/8 in x 3/4 in (112.1 cm x 1.9 cm)
- Sprig size: about 4 3/4 in (12.1 cm) long
Materials
Use a smooth, firm cotton or cotton blend in worsted weight. Cotton holds its shape under the weight of a full roll and stands up to kitchen humidity. Avoid splitty or very stretchy acrylic for the strap.
- Cream (strap): 50 g / 90 m
- Lavender purple (buds): 10 g / 18 m
- Sage green (stems and leaves): 10 g / 18 m
All quantities include a safety margin of about 25%.
Tools:
– 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– 4 locking stitch markers
– Scissors and a measuring tape
– 2 wooden dowels, 3/4 in (1.9 cm) diameter x 14 in (35.6 cm) long
– A wall peg or knob for hanging
– Rust-proof pins and a blocking surface
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- bob – bobble (see below)
Special stitch: bobble (bob). *Yarn over, insert hook in the indicated stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops; repeat from * 2 more times in the same stitch (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops. Push the bobble to the right side with your finger.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 18 sc and 20 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in single crochet with the 4.0 mm hook.
Test piece first. Ch 19. Work 3 rows of sc as in the strap pattern below (18 sc per row). The swatch should be 4 in (10.2 cm) long and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide. It is a short version of the real strap, so the test tells you exactly how your strap will behave.
Checkpoints:
– Strap after Row 1: 44 in (111.8 cm) long, without stretching.
– Strap after Row 3: 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide.
– Strap after border: 44 1/8 in x 3/4 in (112.1 cm x 1.9 cm).
– Lavender spike: about 3 in (7.6 cm) long.
– Stem: about 1 3/4 in (4.4 cm).
– Large leaf: about 1 3/4 in (4.4 cm) x 1/2 in (1.3 cm).
– Small leaf: about 1 1/8 in (2.9 cm).
If your test piece is too big, go down to a 3.75 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 4.5 mm hook. Strap length matters most, because it controls the triangle angle and the dowel spacing. Sprigs can vary slightly without changing the fit.
Strap
Work with cream.
Foundation: Ch 199.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (198 sc)
Checkpoint: 44 in (111.8 cm) long.
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in each st across. Turn. (198 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (198 sc) Do not fasten off. Set the strap aside with a stitch marker in the live loop. You will use this loop for the border.
Checkpoint: 198 sts per row, 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide.
Mark the strap. Count from the center outward on each half, with 99 sts per half. Place a marker after:
– St 50 – end of the diagonal, 11.1 in (28.2 cm)
– St 61 – end of the upper dowel wrap, 11 sts, 2.4 in (6.1 cm)
– St 83 – end of the vertical drop, 22 sts, 4.9 in (12.4 cm)
– St 94 – end of the lower dowel wrap, 11 sts, 2.4 in (6.1 cm)
The last 5 sts, 1.1 in (2.8 cm), are the overlap tail. Check the sum: 50 + 11 + 22 + 11 + 5 = 99 sts per half, and 99 x 2 = 198 sts.
Since you only have 4 locking markers, mark the first half now. Mark the second half with scrap yarn, or move the markers over after assembly on that side.
Lavender Spike with Stem (make 2)
Work the spike with purple. Number the chains from the hook: h1 is next to the hook, and h14 is the first chain you made.
Foundation: Ch 14.
Side 1 (toward the tip): Sl st in h2, *bob in next ch, sl st in next ch; repeat from * 5 more times. You end with a sl st in h14. (6 bob + 7 sl st = 13 sts)
Tip: Ch 1. Rotate to work in the free loops on the other side of the foundation chain.
Side 2 (back toward the base): *Bob in next free loop, sl st in next free loop; repeat from * 5 more times. Then sl st in the last free loop at h2. (6 bob + 7 sl st = 13 sts)
The Side 2 bobbles sit in h14, h12, h10, h8, h6 and h4. The Side 1 bobbles sit in h3, h5, h7, h9, h11 and h13. This offset gives the staggered, alternating buds.
Close: Sl st in h1. Fasten off purple. (12 bobbles total)
Checkpoint: spike about 3 in (7.6 cm) long.
Stem: Join sage green with a sl st in h1, at the base of the spike. Ch 9. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back to the spike (8 sl st). Sl st in h1. Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail for sewing.
Checkpoint: stem about 1 3/4 in (4.4 cm). Whole sprig about 4 3/4 in (12.1 cm).
Leaves
Work with sage green.
Large leaf (make 4): Ch 9.
- Side 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in last ch. (8 sts)
- Tip: Ch 1 to form the point.
- Side 2: Working in the free loops, sc in the first loop, hdc in next 2, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2, sc in last loop. (8 sts)
- Finish: Sl st in the first sc. Fasten off and leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail. (16 sts plus the ch-1 tip)
Small leaf (make 2): Ch 6.
- Side 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. (5 sts)
- Tip: Ch 1.
- Side 2: Working in the free loops, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. (5 sts)
- Finish: Sl st in the first sc. Fasten off and leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail. (10 sts plus the ch-1 tip)
The dc stitches at the middle of each side give the widest point. The sc stitches at each end and the ch-1 tip give the pointed willow-leaf shape.
Make All Pieces
| Piece | Color | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Strap | Cream | 1 |
| Spike with stem | Purple + sage | 2 |
| Large leaf | Sage | 4 |
| Small leaf | Sage | 2 |
Layout grid (front view):
( peg )
/ \
[sprig L] / \ [sprig R]
/ \
=|==========roll==========|= upper dowel
| |
| |
=|========================|= lower dowel
Each sprig sits on its diagonal with the bud tip toward the peg and the stem toward the upper dowel.
Joining the Sprigs to the Strap
- Lay the strap flat with Row 3 facing you. This is the right side.
- On each half, place the bud tip 9 sts, 2 in (5.1 cm), from the center. Center the spike on the strap. The sprig runs about 21 sts down the strap, so the stem base sits at about st 30 from the center.
- Use the purple tail or a matching length of yarn to whipstitch the spike to the strap through the sl sts between the bobbles. Do not sew through the bobbles, so they keep their shape.
- Sew the stem flat with the green tail, one stitch every 2 sl sts.
- Tuck 1 large leaf on each side of the spike base, angled outward at about 45 degrees. Sew only the bottom 1/2 in (1.3 cm) of each leaf to the strap and leave the tips free. Place the small leaf just below the left-hand large leaf on the left sprig and below the right-hand large leaf on the right sprig, so the two sprigs mirror each other.
Tension: Keep the sewing stitches snug but not tight. If they pull, the strap puckers and loses length. Run a finger under the strap after sewing. It should still lie flat.
Checkpoint: the strap still measures 44 in (111.8 cm) after sewing.
Border
The border is a sl st round that firms up the strap edges and gives the braided-chain look you see in the photo.
Border gauge: Work 1 sl st per sc along the long sides and 1 sl st per row-end along the short ends. Fold the free leaf tips toward the center of the strap so you don’t catch them.
Pick up the live cream loop at the end of Row 3.
Border round:
– Long side A (Row 3 edge): Ch 1, then sl st in each st across. (198 sl st)
– Corner: Ch 1.
– Short end: Sl st in the end of each row. (3 sl st)
– Corner: Ch 1.
– Long side B (foundation edge): Sl st in each free loop of the foundation chain. (198 sl st)
– Corner: Ch 1.
– Short end: Sl st in the end of each row. (3 sl st)
– Corner: Ch 1.
– Join: Sl st in the first sl st. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Total: 198 + 3 + 198 + 3 = 402 sl st, plus 4 ch-1 corners.
Why the math works: Each long side has exactly one sl st per existing stitch, so the strap’s length stays at 198 sts and adds only the small slip-stitch rise at each end. That brings the length to 44 1/8 in (112.1 cm). The 198 count already includes the first and last stitch of the side, so no extra corner stitches are added. The ch-1 at each corner only gives the yarn room to turn without pulling. Working one sl st per row-end keeps the 3-row ends from flaring.
Checkpoint: 44 1/8 in x 3/4 in (112.1 cm x 1.9 cm).
Final Blocking and Assembly
- Mist the strap and sprigs with water until damp, not soaked.
- Pin the strap straight to 44 1/8 in (112.1 cm) without stretching it beyond that length.
- Shape each bobble with your fingertips. Pin the leaf tips so they angle outward.
- Let everything dry completely, usually overnight.
- Upper wrap: Put the strap’s center over the peg. Slide a dowel end under the strap at the St 50 marker, 1/2 in (1.3 cm) in from the dowel end. Wrap sts 51–61 once around the dowel and stitch the end of the wrap to the strap with a cream tail.
- Vertical drop: Let sts 62–83 hang straight down. That is 4.9 in (12.4 cm).
- Lower wrap: Wrap sts 84–94 around the second dowel. Fold the 5-st tail (sts 95–99) back up the back of the strap and whipstitch it in place.
- Repeat steps 5–7 on the other half, then check that both drops are level.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each strap row has 198 sts.
- The border has 402 sl st and 4 ch-1 corners.
- Each spike has 12 bobbles, staggered 6 per side.
- You have 2 sprigs, 4 large leaves and 2 small leaves, mirrored left and right.
- Both bud tips sit 2 in (5.1 cm) from the center.
- Both diagonals are the same length and the dowels hang level.
- The inner gap between the upper wraps is 11 1/2 in (29.2 cm). That fits a standard roll.
- All ends are woven in on the back.
Troubleshooting
- The strap twists: Make sure Row 1 went into the chains the same way all along. Steam block it flat.
- The strap is too short: Your gauge is tight. Remake it with a larger hook, or move the dowel wraps 2 sts closer to the ends.
- The bobbles look flat: Push each one to the right side and keep the sl sts beside it snug.
- The leaves curl: Pin them flat while they’re damp, and use firmer tension on the hdc and dc stitches.
- The dowels tilt: Count the stitches between markers on both halves and redo any uneven wrap.
- The roll won’t fit: Slide the wraps outward to 1/2 in (1.3 cm) from the dowel ends.
Care
Remove the dowels and hand wash the strap in cool water with mild soap. Reshape it and lay it flat to dry.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple:
– 18 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
– 198 sts = 44 in (111.8 cm).
– The border brings the strap to 44 1/8 in x 3/4 in (112.1 cm x 1.9 cm).
– Each 99-st half splits into 50 + 11 + 22 + 11 + 5 sts.
– That split hangs the dowels so the holder ends up about 14 in (35.6 cm) wide and 15 in (38.1 cm) tall.
Check your gauge first and the rest falls into place, sprigs and all.
Happy crocheting!