The Little Hearth Stocking is a small, flat Christmas ornament with a traditional look. It has a deep red leg and foot, a rounded cream toe, a cream heel patch, a ribbed cream cuff and a green hanging loop. It looks good on a tree, tied to a gift or hanging from a garland hook on the mantel.
The color scheme is classic red and cream with a touch of evergreen. The red body is worked in half double crochet for a firm, dense fabric. The toe and heel are small semicircles that show a center ring and radiating stitches. The cuff is worked in back-loop single crochet, which makes neat vertical ribs.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished ornament is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide and 4.3 in (10.9 cm) tall, not counting the loop. The loop adds about 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
Here’s how it’s built. First you crochet the red body in rows from the sole up, with the leg narrowing toward the back edge. Next you make two small cream semicircles. One is sewn to the front edge as the toe, and the other is sewn flat over the back corner as the heel. Last, you sew a ribbed cuff across the top and add a slip-stitch loop.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide × 4.3 in (10.9 cm) tall, plus a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) loop
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 4.0 mm (US G-6)
- Number of pieces: 1 finished ornament, assembled from 4 small parts (body, toe, heel, cuff) plus a loop
- Layout: single stocking with the toe pointing left (flip it to point right if you like)
- Red body size: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across the foot, 2 in (5.1 cm) across the leg, 3.3 in (8.4 cm) tall
- Size before border (body + toe): about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide × 3.3 in (8.4 cm) tall
- Border depth (ribbed cuff): 1 in (2.5 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight yarn so the stitches show clearly. Cotton or a cotton blend gives the crisp look in the photos, and acrylic works fine as well. The amounts below assume roughly 200 m per 100 g.
- Red (body): 6 g / 12 m
- Cream (toe, heel, cuff): 5 g / 10 m
- Green (loop): 2 g / 4 m
All quantities include a margin for swatching, tails and sewing.
Tools:
– 4.0 mm (US G-6) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– 2–3 stitch markers
– Sewing pins
– Spray bottle with water, plus a foam mat for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- hdc2tog: half double crochet two together
- BLO: back loop only
- MR: magic ring
- st(s): stitch(es)
- RS / WS: right side / wrong side
Special stitch: hdc2tog. Yarn over, insert the hook in the next st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert the hook in the following st and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops. This makes 1 stitch from 2.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 hdc × 12 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in hdc worked flat. In sc worked in BLO, 4 sts measure about 1 in (2.5 cm) and 4 rows measure about 1 in (2.5 cm).
On an ornament this small, the red body is your swatch. Crochet it first and check these points:
- After Row 4 (foot): 2.75 in (7.0 cm) wide × 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall
- After Row 10 (leg): 2 in (5.1 cm) across the leg, 3.3 in (8.4 cm) total height
- Toe and heel: each straight edge about 1.3 in (3.3 cm), each about 0.7 in (1.8 cm) deep
- Cuff: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long × 1 in (2.5 cm) tall
If the foot measures more than 2.75 in (7.0 cm), go down one hook size to 3.5 mm. If it measures less, go up to 4.5 mm. Use the same hook for every part so the toe, heel and cuff fit the body.
Pattern
Part 1: Red Body (Foot and Leg)
The body is worked in rows from the sole upward. Row 1 starts at the heel (back) end, so even-numbered rows finish at the heel. That lets the leg rise straight from the back edge.
With red, ch 13.
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. The skipped ch-2 does not count as a stitch. Turn. (11 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout), hdc in each st across. Turn. (11 hdc)
Rows 3–4: Repeat Row 2. (11 hdc in each row)
Checkpoint: The foot measures 2.75 in (7.0 cm) wide × 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall. Your yarn is now at the heel end. Place a marker in the last st of Row 4 so you can find the back edge later.
Row 5 (leg begins): Ch 2, hdc in each of the next 7 sts, hdc2tog over the next 2 sts. Leave the remaining 2 sts unworked. Turn. (8 sts: 7 hdc + 1 hdc2tog)
This row uses 9 of the 11 foot stitches (7 + 2). The 2 unworked stitches form a 0.5 in (1.3 cm) ledge at the front, and the hdc2tog gives a gentle slope at the top of the foot.
Row 6: Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn. (8 hdc)
Rows 7–10: Repeat Row 6. (8 hdc in each row)
Fasten off and leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Checkpoint: The leg is 2 in (5.1 cm) wide, and the body is 3.3 in (8.4 cm) tall in total (10 rows at 3 rows per inch). The back edge runs straight from the sole to the top.
Part 2: Toe (Cream Semicircle)
With cream, make a MR.
Row 1: Ch 2, work 6 hdc into the ring. Pull the ring tightly closed and turn. (6 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st across. (12 hdc)
Fasten off and leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail for sewing.
The straight edge is made of the row ends plus the closed ring, so it measures about 1.3 in (3.3 cm). That matches the 4-row front edge of the foot. The curved edge is about 0.7 in (1.8 cm) deep, and the closed ring makes the small center dot seen in the photos.
Part 3: Heel (Cream Semicircle)
Work exactly like the toe, Rows 1–2. (12 hdc) Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail.
Part 4: Assembly of Toe and Heel
Toe: With the body RS facing and the toe end on the left, line up the toe’s straight edge with the front edge of Rows 1–4. Pin the ring at the middle of that edge. Whipstitch the edges together through the outer loops, about 2 stitches per row end. The toe now forms the rounded front of the foot and extends about 0.7 in (1.8 cm) past the red.
Heel: Place the heel on the RS of the body at the back lower corner, using the marker from Row 4 as your guide. Line up the heel’s straight edge with the back edge of Rows 1–4, curved side pointing toward the toe. Whipstitch the straight edge to the back edge. Then sew the curved edge flat onto the red fabric with small running stitches through the back loops of Row 2. The heel lies on top of the red and does not add width.
Weave in the toe and heel tails on the WS.
Border: Ribbed Cuff
The only border on this design is the cuff across the top of the leg. It’s worked sideways in short rows, so each BLO ridge becomes a vertical rib once the cuff is turned.
Border gauge: 4 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) across the cuff height. 4 BLO rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) along the cuff length.
With cream, ch 5.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (4 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count), sc BLO in each st across. Turn. (4 sc)
Rows 3–9: Repeat Row 2. (4 sc in each row)
Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail.
Checkpoint: The cuff measures 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long × 1 in (2.5 cm) tall and shows clear vertical ribs.
Per-side counts:
– Long side (attaching edge): 9 row ends
– Short sides: 4 sts each (the foundation ch on one end, the Row 9 sts on the other)
– Top long side: 9 row ends (stays open)
Attaching: Turn the cuff so its ribs run vertically. Center one long edge (9 row ends) along the 8 sts at the top of Row 10. Whipstitch row end to stitch, easing in the extra row end across the center 3 stitches.
Why the math works: The leg is 8 hdc at 4 sts per inch, which is 2 in (5.1 cm). The cuff is 9 rows at 4 rows per inch, which is 2.25 in (5.7 cm). The extra 0.25 in splits evenly, so the cuff overhangs the leg by 1/8 in (0.3 cm) on each side. That small overhang gives the cuff a slightly flared look. The cuff adds 1 in (2.5 cm) of height, so the total is 3.3 + 1 = 4.3 in (10.9 cm).
Hanging Loop
With green, ch 16. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (15 sl st) This makes a firm cord about 3 in (7.6 cm) long.
Fold the cord in half. Sew both ends to the WS of the cuff at its center top, between the ribs of Rows 4 and 6, stitching about 0.25 in into the cuff. The loop stands about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the cuff.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining tails on the WS. Run each one through stitches of its own color so it can’t show through.
- Lay the ornament RS up on a foam mat.
- Pin the outline: the straight back edge, the flat sole, the round toe and the top edge of the cuff. Check that the overall width is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) and the height is 4.3 in (10.9 cm).
- Lightly mist the ornament with water until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Gently press the heel patch flat with your fingertips so it lies smoothly on the red.
- Let it dry completely, usually 4–6 hours.
- Unpin it and check the measurements again.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Foot is 11 hdc wide and leg is 8 sts wide
- [ ] Body has 10 rows and is 3.3 in (8.4 cm) tall
- [ ] Back edge is straight from sole to cuff
- [ ] Toe and heel each have 12 hdc in Row 2 and a tightly closed center ring
- [ ] Toe is centered on the front edge, with the ring at the middle
- [ ] Heel lies flat over the back corner, with its curve facing the toe
- [ ] Cuff has 9 rows of 4 sc, with ribs running vertically
- [ ] Cuff overhangs the leg by 1/8 in (0.3 cm) on each side
- [ ] Loop is centered, secure and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall
- [ ] No tails show on the RS
Troubleshooting
Foot edges lean or slant. You may be working the ch-2 as a stitch. Ch 2 does not count, so start every row’s first hdc in the very first stitch.
Leg sits in the middle instead of at the back. Row 1 began at the wrong end. Just flip the body so the leg is at the back. The toe will then point the other way, which works fine.
Toe or heel ruffles. Your tension in Row 2 is looser than in the body. Redo it with a 3.5 mm hook.
Toe or heel cups. Your stitches are too tight. Redo the piece with a 4.5 mm hook.
Center ring has a hole. Pull the magic ring tail firmly before you work Row 2, and secure it with a knot on the WS.
Cuff ribs are faint. Make sure every stitch after Row 1 is worked in the back loop only.
Cuff is much wider than the leg. Remove Row 9 and use 8 rows. The cuff will then match the leg at 2 in (5.1 cm).
Care
Spot clean with cool water and a little mild soap, then reshape and dry flat. Store it flat or hanging, away from direct heat.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. The 11-st foot measures 2.75 in (7.0 cm), and the 8-st leg measures 2 in (5.1 cm). Ten rows bring the body to 3.3 in (8.4 cm). The toe’s 4-row-end straight edge matches the foot’s 1.3 in (3.3 cm) front edge, which brings the width to 3.5 in (8.9 cm). The 9-row cuff covers the 8-st leg with 1/8 in (0.3 cm) to spare on each side and brings the height to 4.3 in (10.9 cm). If your first body checks out at Row 4, the rest of the pieces will fit.
Happy crocheting!