Deep teal crocheted basket project showing yarn ball, crochet hooks, assembled components, and finished hanging basket in neutral home settings.

Teal Twist Hanging Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

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The Teal Twist is a tall hanging toilet paper holder with bold diagonal ridges that spiral around the whole tube. It holds a working roll at the bottom and two spares stacked above, and it hangs from a wall hook by a cream loop.

The body and discs are one deep teal, and the hanging loop is cream. The fabric is firm and dense, so the holder keeps its round shape even when it’s full.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 5.1 in (13.0 cm) across, 16 in (40.6 cm) around, and 14.0 in (35.6 cm) tall.

You start with a flat base disc and turn up into a tube. Next you work rows to leave a front dispensing opening, close it with a chain, and work spiral ridge rounds to the top. A second disc closes the top, and an optional third disc covers a stiff floor insert. A crocheted loop anchored by a D-ring goes through the top center.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 5.1 in (13.0 cm) across, 16 in (40.6 cm) around, 14.0 in (35.6 cm) tall
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US terms
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
  • Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
  • Number of pieces: 4 (tube with attached base disc, top disc, floor cover disc, hanging loop)
  • Layout: vertical tube, opening at the bottom front, loop at the top center
  • Disc size: 5.1 in (13.0 cm) across, 72 stitches in the last round
  • Size before border: 13.8 in (35.1 cm) tall, measured from the base fold
  • Border depth: 0.2 in (0.5 cm) for the top rim; 0.4 in (1.0 cm) for the opening trim

Materials

Choose a smooth, firm worsted yarn. Cotton or a cotton blend works best because it holds its shape and doesn’t fuzz. Acrylic also works, but the tube may slump slightly.

  • Teal (main color): 140 g, about 265 m
  • Cream (loop): 10 g, about 18 m

These amounts include a margin of about 25% for swatching and small gauge differences.

Tools:

  • 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
  • 1 in (2.5 cm) metal D-ring
  • Optional: plastic canvas circle, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across
  • Stitch markers
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch: chain
  • sc: single crochet
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
  • sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
  • BLO: back loop only
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • RS / WS: right side / wrong side

Special stitch – front post single crochet (FPsc): Insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch directly below. Yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. Skip the stitch behind the FPsc. Each FPsc counts as 1 stitch.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 18 sc and 20 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm), worked in sc in the round.

Your test piece is the base disc. If it matches the checkpoint below, carry straight on into the tube.

Checkpoints:

  • Base disc (Round 12): 5.1 in (13.0 cm) across
  • Rim (Round 15): 0.6 in (1.5 cm) above the base fold
  • Opening (Row 20): 4.6 in (11.7 cm) above the fold
  • Closing round (Round 36): 4.8 in (12.2 cm) above the fold
  • Each 9-round ridge repeat: 1.8 in (4.6 cm)
  • Finished tube (Round 81): 13.8 in (35.1 cm) tall

If your disc is too big: go down to a 3.75 mm (F-5) hook. If it’s too small: go up to a 4.5 mm (7) hook. A disc that’s 0.25 in (0.6 cm) off in width changes the circumference by about 0.8 in (2.0 cm), so fix it now.

The fabric should be dense. If you can see light through it, go down a hook size even if your measurements are close.

Close-up of a teal crocheted container with diagonal stitch texture and cream-colored rope handle.

Base Disc and Tube

Work the disc in joined rounds. End each round with a sl st into the first sc, then ch 1. The ch 1 doesn’t count as a stitch.

With teal:

  • Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sts)
  • Round 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
  • Round 3: sc 1, inc 6 times. (18 sts)
  • Round 4: sc 2, inc 6 times. (24 sts)
  • Round 5: sc 3, inc 6 times. (30 sts)
  • Round 6: sc 4, inc 6 times. (36 sts)
  • Round 7: sc 5, inc 6 times. (42 sts)
  • Round 8: sc 6, inc 6 times. (48 sts)
  • Round 9: sc 7, inc 6 times. (54 sts)
  • Round 10: sc 8, inc 6 times. (60 sts)
  • Round 11: sc 9, inc 6 times. (66 sts)
  • Round 12: sc 10, inc 6 times. (72 sts)

Keeping it round: On even rounds, you can offset the increases so the disc stays round instead of turning into a hexagon. For example, work Round 12 as sc 5, inc, sc 10, inc 5 times, sc 5. The total doesn’t change.

Rim

  • Round 13: sc in BLO of each st around. (72 sts) This makes the fold between the floor and the wall.
  • Rounds 14–15: sc in each st around. (72 sts)

Check: 0.6 in (1.5 cm) above the fold.

Dispensing Opening

Now work in rows over 48 sts and leave 24 sts of Round 15 unworked for the opening.

  • Row 1 (RS): ch 1, sc in each of the next 48 sts, turn. (48 sts)
  • Rows 2–20: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (48 sts)

After Row 20, don’t turn. Ch 24, then sl st in the first sc of Row 20 to bridge the gap.

Check: 4.6 in (11.7 cm) above the fold. The opening is 24 sts wide, about 5.3 in (13.5 cm), and 20 rows tall, about 4.0 in (10.2 cm).

  • Round 36 (closing round, RS): ch 1 and turn so the RS faces you. Sc in each of the 24 ch, then sc in each of the 48 sts. Join. (24 + 48 = 72 sts)

Check: 4.8 in (12.2 cm) above the fold.

Spiral Ridge Rounds

Work these rounds in a continuous spiral without joining, and move a marker up each round. Each round has 8 repeats of 9 sts.

  • Round 37: FPsc 2, sc 7 8 times. (72 sts)
  • Round 38: sc 1, FPsc 2, sc 6 8 times. (72 sts)
  • Round 39: sc 2, FPsc 2, sc 5 8 times. (72 sts)
  • Round 40: sc 3, FPsc 2, sc 4 8 times. (72 sts)
  • Round 41: sc 4, FPsc 2, sc 3 8 times. (72 sts)
  • Round 42: sc 5, FPsc 2, sc 2 8 times. (72 sts)
  • Round 43: sc 6, FPsc 2, sc 1 8 times. (72 sts)
  • Round 44: sc 7, FPsc 2 8 times. (72 sts)
  • Round 45: FPsc 1, sc 7, FPsc 1 8 times. (72 sts)

Each FPsc pair starts one stitch later than the pair below it, so the 8 raised ridges climb diagonally around the tube.

  • Rounds 46–81: repeat Rounds 37–45 four more times. (72 sts)

That makes 5 repeats, or 45 rounds, for 9.0 in (22.9 cm) of ridges. Sl st in the next st to smooth the step at the end of the spiral. Don’t fasten off yet.

Check: 13.8 in (35.1 cm) tall from the fold.

Top Disc and Floor Cover Disc

With teal, make 2 discs by working Rounds 1–12 of the base disc. (72 sts each) Fasten off. Leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail on the floor cover disc.

Check: each disc is 5.1 in (13.0 cm) across.

Hanging Loop

With cream, ch 31.

  • Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (30 sts)
  • Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st across. (30 sts)

Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strip is about 6.7 in (17.0 cm) long.

Make All Pieces

  • Teal: 1 tube with base disc, 1 top disc, 1 floor cover disc
  • Cream: 1 hanging loop
  • Hardware: 1 D-ring; plastic canvas circle (optional)

Assembly stack, top to bottom:

[ cream loop ]
[ top disc, D-ring underneath ]
[ ridge rounds 37-81 ]
[ closing round 36 ]
[ opening rows, 24-st gap at front ]
[ rim rounds 13-15 ]
[ floor cover disc ]
[ plastic canvas, optional ]
[ base disc, rounds 1-12 ]

Joining

Loop: Fold the cream strip in half. Push both ends through the magic ring at the center of the top disc, from the RS to the WS. Thread both ends through the D-ring, fold them back about 0.75 in (1.9 cm), and sew them down firmly. The D-ring sits under the disc and keeps the loop from pulling through.

Wrap the cream tail 8 times around the doubled loop just above the disc, then sew through the wrap to lock it. The loop should stand about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) above the top.

Floor: If you’re using plastic canvas, drop it inside onto the base disc. Lay the floor cover disc on top, RS up, and tack it to Round 13 in 6 evenly spaced spots.

Top: Hold the top disc on the tube, WS together, and match the stitches one to one (72 tube sts to 72 disc sts). You’ll join them in the border step.

Keep your tension even. If you pull too tight, the rim puckers. If you work too loosely, the top sags under the weight of the rolls.

Border

Border gauge: same as the body, 18 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).

Top Rim

With the working teal yarn, ch 1. Sc through both layers (1 tube st and 1 disc st together) all the way around. Join. (72 sts)

Why the math works: The tube has 72 sts and the disc has 72 sts. Matching them one to one, with nothing added or skipped, keeps the rim flat with no ruffles. Fasten off.

The rim adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm), so the holder is now 14.0 in (35.6 cm) tall.

Opening Trim

With the RS facing, join teal at the bottom right corner of the opening.

  • Round 1: ch 1. Sc 24 along the bottom edge, working into the unworked sts of Round 15. Sc 20 up the left side, 1 in each row end. Sc 24 across the top, 1 in the underside of each ch. Sc 20 down the right side. Join. (24 + 20 + 24 + 20 = 88 sts)
  • Round 2: ch 1. Sc 24 along the bottom and sc 20 up the left side. Across the top, work sc2tog, sc 20, sc2tog (22 sts). Sc 20 down the right side. Join. (24 + 20 + 22 + 20 = 86 sts)

Why the math works: The trim uses 1 sc per stitch and 1 sc per sc row end, which is the standard flat ratio for a single crochet edge. With no extra stitches at the corners, the corners curve gently. The 2 sc2tog in Round 2 round off the top corners into a soft arch.

The finished opening is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide and 3.2 in (8.1 cm) tall inside the trim. To load the holder, feed the spare rolls up through the opening one at a time. Seat the last roll on the floor so the stack rests on it.

Final Blocking

  1. Lightly mist the holder with water.
  2. Fill it with 3 rolls, or with a rolled towel about 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
  3. Straighten the ridges so they run in even diagonals.
  4. Pat the opening trim flat and shape the top corners into curves.
  5. Pinch the base fold and the top rim into crisp edges.
  6. Let it dry completely while filled, for at least 24 hours.
  7. Measure it: 5.1 in (13.0 cm) across and 14.0 in (35.6 cm) tall.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • 72 sts in every disc and every tube round
  • All 8 ridges shift evenly with no stacked or doubled steps
  • The opening sits centered on the front when the holder hangs
  • The base fold and the top rim are crisp
  • The D-ring is sewn securely under the top disc
  • The loop wrap is tight and the tails are hidden
  • All ends are woven in at least 2 in (5.1 cm)

Troubleshooting

  • Ridges run straight up: the FPsc pairs aren’t shifting. Each pair must start one stitch later than the pair below it.
  • The disc cups: your tension is too tight, so go up a hook size. The disc ruffles: your tension is too loose, so go down a hook size.
  • The tube is too wide: remake it with a smaller hook. Keep 72 sts, because the ridges need a multiple of 9.
  • The opening edge flares: work 19 sc per side in both trim rounds. That changes the totals to 86 and 84.
  • The holder tilts on the hook: re-sew the loop so it sits dead center on the top disc.

Care

Hand wash in cool water. Dry it lying down with a filler inside to hold the shape, and keep it out of the dryer.

Teal crocheted toilet paper holder with cream strap mounted on light bathroom wall.

Final Notes

Your gauge of 18 sc and 20 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) controls every measurement. It gives 72-st discs that are 5.1 in (13.0 cm) across and a tube that’s 16 in (40.6 cm) around. The tube measures 13.8 in (35.1 cm) tall before the rim and 14.0 in (35.6 cm) after it. The one-to-one 72-st top join keeps the rim flat, and the 88-to-86 trim rounds off the opening.

Check the disc, check the closing round, and count to 72 often.

Happy crocheting!

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