The Sage Frost Lace Square is a soft, vintage-style motif. A sage green four-petal flower sits inside a cream lace frame. The petals are solid and textured. The cream border is open and airy, and each point ends in a small three-loop trefoil.
There are only two colors, sage green and cream. Together they look calm and seasonal. The motif suits winter tables, gift tags, coasters, or a single decorative doily. It is shown laid flat and set on point as a diamond.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished motif measures 5 in (12.7 cm) per side. With the trefoil picots, it measures about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) from point to point.
You make the motif in the round from the center out. Rounds 1–5 are worked in green and build the flower and its square outline. Rounds 6–8 are worked in cream and form the lace border. You only need one piece, and there is no joining.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5 in (12.7 cm) per side; about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) point to point including picots
- Skill level: Easy–Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 1 single motif
- Layout: One square motif, displayed on point as a diamond
- Piece size before border: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) per side after Round 5
- Border depth: about 0.875 in (2.2 cm) per side (Rounds 6–8)
Materials
Use a smooth, mercerized or matte worsted-weight cotton. Cotton keeps the petals crisp and holds the picots open after blocking. Avoid fuzzy yarns, which blur the lace.
- Color A, sage green: about 8 g / 15 m
- Color B, cream: about 10 g / 19 m
These quantities include a margin of about 20% for gauge swatching and weaving in ends.
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- 2 stitch markers
- Blocking mat and rustproof pins
- Spray bottle with water
- Ruler or measuring tape
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – trefoil corner: Work (sc, ch 4, sc, ch 6, sc, ch 4, sc) all into the same corner space. This makes three loops in a row: small, large, small. The large loop forms the point of the motif.
Starting chains: In Rounds 2–4, ch 3 counts as the first dc. In Round 5, ch 4 counts as the first tr. In all sc rounds, ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make this one motif first and check it as you go. Size depends on how firmly you hold the yarn.
Base gauge: 18 sc and 20 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in cotton with a 4.5 mm hook.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 1: the ring measures about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across, with a center hole of about 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
- After Round 2: about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across.
- After Round 4: about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across, measured petal tip to petal tip.
- After Round 5: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) per side.
- After Round 7: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) per side.
- After Round 8: 5 in (12.7 cm) per side.
If your motif is too big: Go down to a 4 mm (US G-6) hook, or hold the working yarn more firmly.
If your motif is too small: Go up to a 5 mm (US H-8) hook. Make sure your tr stitches are fully pulled up and not squashed.
Small differences of up to 0.25 in (0.6 cm) can be fixed in blocking.
Center Flower (Color A, Sage Green)
Round 1: Ch 6, then sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, then work 16 sc into the ring. Sl st to the first sc to join. (16 sc)
Keep the ring loose and even. The open center is part of the design, so do not pull it closed.
Round 2 (petal base): Ch 3 (counts as dc), then dc in the same st. Work 2 dc in the next st, ch 2, and sk the next 2 sts. Work 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts, ch 2, sk the next 2 sts. Rep from * to * 2 more times. Sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (16 dc in 4 petals of 4 dc; 4 ch-2 sps)
Each petal uses 2 sts and each gap skips 2 sts. Four repeats of 4 sts uses all 16 sts.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), then dc in the same st. Dc in the next 2 dc, then 2 dc in the last dc of the petal. Ch 2 and sk the ch-2 sp. Work 2 dc in the first dc of the next petal, dc in the next 2 dc, 2 dc in the last dc, then ch 2 and sk the ch-2 sp. Rep from * to * 2 more times. Sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (24 dc in 4 petals of 6 dc; 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), then dc in the same st. Dc in the next 4 dc, then 2 dc in the last dc of the petal. Ch 3 and sk the ch-2 sp. Work 2 dc in the first dc of the next petal, dc in the next 4 dc, 2 dc in the last dc, then ch 3 and sk the ch-2 sp. Rep from * to * 2 more times. Sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (32 dc in 4 petals of 8 dc; 4 ch-3 sps)
Each petal now looks like a rounded wedge. The ch-3 gaps between the petals will become the corners of the square.
Round 5 (squaring round): Sl st into the next 7 dc, then sl st into the ch-3 sp. Ch 4 (counts as tr), then work (tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in the same sp. This is the first corner.
Along the petal, work hdc in the next 2 dc, sc in the next 4 dc, and hdc in the next 2 dc.
Work (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in the next ch-3 sp. Then hdc in the next 2 dc, sc in the next 4 dc, and hdc in the next 2 dc. Rep from * to * 2 more times. Sl st to the top of the beg ch-4. Fasten off Color A.
Stitch count for Round 5: Each side between two corner ch-2 sps has 2 tr + 2 hdc + 4 sc + 2 hdc + 2 tr = 12 sts. For the whole round, that is 48 sts and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
The tr stitches lift the corners up to the height of the petal tips. The short sc stitches flatten the middle of each petal into a straight side. The open space next to each tr keeps the lacy gaps between petals.
Checkpoint: The square measures 3.25 in (8.3 cm) per side.
Border (Color B, Cream)
Border gauge: 18 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). Round 7 has 21 sc per side plus the corner spaces, which gives the 4.5 in (11.4 cm) checkpoint.
Round 6 (inner chain loops): Join Color B in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, then work (sc, ch 5, sc) in the same sp.
Ch 3, sk the first st of the side, and sc in the 2nd st. Ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in the next st. Rep from * to * 2 more times. You now have sc in sts 2, 5, 8 and 11 of the side. Ch 3, sk the 12th st, and work (sc, ch 5, sc) in the next corner ch-2 sp.
Rep this side sequence 2 more times. Then work the last side to the 11th st, ch 3, sk the 12th st, and sl st to the first sc. (Per side: 4 sc and 5 ch-3 loops. Corners: (sc, ch 5, sc). Total: 24 sc, 20 ch-3 loops and 4 ch-5 corner loops)
Why it works: The anchors sit at sts 2, 5, 8 and 11. That skips 1 st at each end of the side and 2 sts between anchors, so all 12 sts are used and the side is symmetrical.
Round 7 (solid frame): Sl st into the first ch-5 corner loop. Ch 1, then work (3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc) in the same loop. Work 3 sc in each of the next 5 ch-3 loops, then (3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc) in the next ch-5 corner loop. Rep from * to * 2 more times. Work 3 sc in each of the last 5 ch-3 loops, then sl st to the first sc.
Stitch count for Round 7: Each side between corner ch-2 sps has 3 (from the corner) + 15 (5 loops × 3) + 3 (from the next corner) = 21 sc. For the whole round, that is 84 sc and 4 ch-2 corner sps.
The corner sc are counted only once. Each corner loop gives 3 sc to the side before it and 3 sc to the side after it.
Checkpoint: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) per side.
Round 8 (arches and trefoil corners): Sl st into the next 2 sc, then sl st into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, then work a trefoil corner, (sc, ch 4, sc, ch 6, sc, ch 4, sc), in the same sp.
Sc in the 1st st of the side. Ch 4, sk 3 sts, sc in the next st. Rep from * to * 4 more times, ending with sc in the 21st st. Work a trefoil corner in the next corner ch-2 sp.
Rep the side and corner 2 more times. Work the last side, ending with sc in the 21st st. Sl st to the first sc and fasten off.
Stitch count for Round 8: Each side has sc in sts 1, 5, 9, 13, 17 and 21, which is 6 sc and 5 ch-4 arches. Each corner has 4 sc and 3 loops. For the whole round, that is 40 sc, 20 arches and 12 corner loops.
Why it works: 21 sts = 1 anchor + 5 × (3 skipped + 1 anchor). The first and last anchors sit right next to the corner, so the trefoils start straight from the frame.
Checkpoint: 5 in (12.7 cm) per side, and about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) point to point including the large trefoil loops.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends. Weave each end into a matching color: green ends into the petals and cream ends into the Round 7 frame.
- Lay the motif face up on the blocking mat, set on point as a diamond.
- Mist it until it is evenly damp but not dripping.
- Pin the four corners so that each side measures 5 in (12.7 cm).
- Pin the large center loop of each trefoil outward so the point reaches about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) from the opposite point.
- Pin each ch-4 arch into a smooth, even curve.
- Push the center hole gently open to about 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
- Let it dry completely before you unpin it, usually 6–12 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Round 1 has 16 sc, and the center hole is open and round.
- [ ] Each petal has 8 dc after Round 4.
- [ ] Round 5 has 12 sts per side, and all four corners look the same.
- [ ] Round 6 has 5 ch-3 loops on every side.
- [ ] Round 7 has 21 sc per side.
- [ ] Round 8 has 5 arches per side and a three-loop trefoil at each point.
- [ ] The motif measures 5 in (12.7 cm) per side after blocking.
- [ ] All ends are woven in and invisible from the front.
Troubleshooting
The center cups or ruffles. In Round 1, 16 sc may be too many for a tight ring, or too few for a loose one. Adjust the ring tension instead of changing the count.
The petals curl forward. Your dc may be tighter than your sc. Go up half a hook size for Rounds 2–4 only.
The Round 5 corners look rounded. Make sure you work full tr stitches in the gaps and pull each loop up to its full height.
The border ripples. Your chains are too long. Ch a little more firmly, or use a smaller hook for Rounds 6 and 8.
The border pulls the square into a bowl. Your chains are too tight. Loosen them, or use a larger hook for the chain rounds.
The trefoils flop. Block with more water and pin each loop separately. A light spray starch helps cotton hold its shape.
Your side count is off. Recount Round 5 first. Every later round depends on its 12 sts per side.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent and press out the water in a towel. Lay flat to dry, and reshape the corners and picots while the motif is still damp.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short and easy to check:
- 1.25 in (3.2 cm) after Round 1
- 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across the petals after Round 4
- 3.25 in (8.3 cm) per side after Round 5
- 4.5 in (11.4 cm) per side after Round 7
- 5 in (12.7 cm) per side after Round 8, and about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) point to point
The stitch counts link each round to the next: 16 sc, 8 dc per petal, 12 sts per side, 5 loops per side, 21 sc per side, and 5 arches per side. If each checkpoint matches, the finished motif will lie flat and square, with crisp trefoil points.
Happy crocheting!