This bed runner is a single rectangle of soft blush-pink lace. Five columns of interlocking ovals run along its length. Each oval holds a leaf-shaped opening with a solid center vein, and smaller leaf shapes sit in the gaps between the columns. A mesh border with bobble drop points frames the lace, and matching tassels hang from the points.
The runner uses one color, a warm blush pink that suits white bedding and light wood furniture. The style is romantic but structured. Because the ovals line up in straight columns, the piece looks deliberate rather than busy.
All instructions use US crochet terms. After blocking, the finished runner measures 20 in x 74.5 in (50.8 cm x 189.2 cm), not counting tassels. The tassels hang about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) below the edge.
The construction is simple. You work the lace body in short rows across the width, so the rows stack up along the runner’s length. Next you add a three-round border all the way around and block the piece. The tassels go on last.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 20 in x 74.5 in (50.8 cm x 189.2 cm), plus tassels
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (category 4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 (one continuous lace panel, no joining)
- Layout: 5 oval columns across, 23 ovals per column
- Body size before border: 16 in x 70.5 in (40.6 cm x 179.1 cm)
- Border depth: 2 in (5.1 cm) on every side
- Body stitch count: 64 stitches wide, 141 rows long
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton. Cotton shows the oval ribs crisply and blocks flat. Avoid fuzzy yarns, which blur the leaf openings.
- Blush pink, body: 400 g / 760 m (831 yd)
- Blush pink, border: 120 g / 228 m (249 yd)
- Blush pink, tassels: 180 g / 342 m (374 yd)
- Total: 700 g / 1,330 m (1,455 yd), about seven 100 g / 190 m balls
Buy all the yarn from one dye lot. These quantities include a margin of about 15% for swatching and tension differences.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle and scissors
- Stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Stiff card 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, for tassels
- Blocking mats, rust-proof pins, and a spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- rep – repeat
- RS – right side
Special stitch – Drop Point (DP): Ch 4. In the 4th ch from hook, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops; rep from * 3 more times (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops. This makes a 4-dc bobble that hangs on a short chain stem.
Position rule: In the body, every chain counts as 1 stitch. Work each dc into the top of the stitch directly below it, whether that stitch is a dc or a chain (insert the hook under the chain’s top loops). Each “ch 1, sk 1” passes over one stitch below. This keeps every row at exactly 64 stitches and makes the ribs shift cleanly.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Body gauge: 16 sts and 8 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in the oval pattern, measured after blocking.
Make a test swatch first. The pattern repeat is 12 sts plus 4, so a 2-oval swatch is easy:
- Ch 30. Work Row 1 (28 dc).
- Work Rows 2–7 as written, but work each bracketed repeat 1 time instead of 4 (Rows 2, 3, 4, 6, 7), or 2 times instead of 5 (Row 5).
- Blocked swatch: 7 in (17.8 cm) wide and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
If your swatch is too big, go down one hook size. If it is too small, go up one hook size. Get the width right first, because it controls the border math.
Checkpoints on the runner (lightly stretched):
- After Row 1: 16 in (40.6 cm) wide
- After Row 25 (4 repeats): 12.5 in (31.8 cm) long
- After Row 73 (12 repeats): 36.5 in (92.7 cm) long
- After Row 141: 16 in x 70.5 in (40.6 cm x 179.1 cm)
Body
Each oval is made from two 3-dc ribs. The ribs move one stitch apart per row and then one stitch back, which draws the oval outline. The space inside becomes a leaf opening with a 2-dc vein. The space outside becomes a smaller leaf between the columns.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 66. Dc in 4th ch from hook (the skipped ch count as the first dc) and in each ch across. Turn. (64 dc)
From here on, the ch 3 at the start of each row counts as a dc. Work the last dc of each row into the top of the turning ch.
Row 2 (ovals meet top to bottom): Ch 3, dc in next 4 sts. Dc in next 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2; rep from * 3 more times. Dc in next 6 sts, dc in last 5 sts. Turn. (48 dc + 16 ch = 64 sts)
Row 3 (ovals open): Ch 3, dc in next 3 sts. Dc in next 3 sts, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1; rep from * 3 more times. Dc in next 3 sts, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 3 sts, dc in last 4 sts. Turn. (46 dc + 18 ch = 64 sts)
Row 4 (ovals widen, vein starts): Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts. Dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 3 sts, ch 2, sk 2; rep from * 3 more times. Dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. Turn. (46 dc + 18 ch = 64 sts)
Row 5 (widest row, ovals touch side to side): Ch 3, dc in next st. Dc in next 3 sts, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * 4 more times. Dc in last 2 sts. Turn. (44 dc + 20 ch = 64 sts)
Row 6: Rep Row 4. (64 sts)
Row 7: Rep Row 3. (64 sts)
Rows 2–7 make one oval repeat. In Row 2, the two ribs of each oval meet as a 6-dc block, linking each oval to the one below it. In Row 5, the outer ribs of neighboring ovals meet as a 6-dc block, linking the columns sideways.
Rows 8–139: Rep Rows 2–7 twenty-two more times, for 23 full repeats.
Row 140: Rep Row 2 to close the last ovals. (64 sts)
Row 141 (RS): Ch 3, dc in each st across. (64 dc) Fasten off.
The body now measures 16 in x 70.5 in (40.6 cm x 179.1 cm).
Border
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) along every edge. On the long sides, 2 sc per dc row end gives exactly 4 sc per inch, because 8 rows = 4 in. Each ch-5 loop in Round 2 spans 3 sc, which is 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
Round 1 (RS): With RS facing, join yarn in the first st of Row 141. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st, sc in next 62 sts, 2 sc in last st; ch 2 for the corner. Working down the long side: 2 sc in each row end; ch 2. Working across the foundation ch: 2 sc in first ch, sc in next 62 ch, 2 sc in last ch; ch 2. Working up the second long side: 2 sc in each row end; ch 2. Sl st to first sc.
- Short sides: 64 sc (1 per stitch) + 2 extra = 66 sc each
- Long sides: 141 row ends x 2 = 282 sc each
- Corners: 4 ch-2 sps, not counted in the side totals
- Total: 696 sc
Round 2 (mesh): Sl st in next sc (st 2 of the side). Ch 1, sc in same st. [Ch 5, sk 2, sc in next sc] 21 times, ending in st 65. Ch 5, sk last sc, (sc, ch 5, sc) in corner sp. Ch 5, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc (st 2 of the long side). [Ch 5, sk 2, sc in next sc] 93 times, ending in st 281. Ch 5, sk last sc, (sc, ch 5, sc) in corner sp. Ch 5, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc. Rep from * to * once more. Work the final corner as (sc, ch 5, sc) in the first corner sp, then ch 2, dc in first sc. The ch 2 and dc together form the last loop.
- Short sides: 22 anchor sc and 23 loops each
- Long sides: 94 anchor sc and 95 loops each
- Corners: 1 corner loop each
- Total: 240 ch-5 loops
Round 3 (drop points): Ch 1, 4 sc in the joining loop (loop 1 of the short side). [(2 sc, DP, 2 sc) in next loop, 4 sc in next loop] 11 times. (2 sc, DP, 2 sc) in corner loop. 4 sc in loop 1 of the long side. [(2 sc, DP, 2 sc) in next loop, 4 sc in next loop] 47 times. (2 sc, DP, 2 sc) in corner loop. 4 sc in loop 1 of the next short side. Rep from * to * once more, leaving out the final 4 sc. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
- Short sides: 92 sc + 11 DP each
- Long sides: 380 sc + 47 DP each
- Corners: 4 sc + 1 DP each
- Total: 960 sc and 120 DP
Why the math works: Each loop uses 3 sc, so each side needs a multiple of 3. The short sides need 2 extra sc to reach 66 (3 x 22). The long sides already have 282 (3 x 94). Each side then ends up with an odd number of loops, and the points fall on the even-numbered loops. That puts a point at the exact center of each side, so the border is symmetrical. The points sit 1.5 in (3.8 cm) apart.
Tassels
Make 60 tassels:
- Wrap yarn 20 times around the 4 in (10.2 cm) card.
- Slide a 10 in (25.4 cm) tie under the loops at the top and knot it.
- Cut the loops at the bottom.
- Wrap a second strand tightly around the tassel 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the top, knot it, and hide the ends inside.
- Trim to 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
Number the DPs along each side, not counting the corners. Put a tassel on every corner DP and on every even-numbered side DP:
- Short sides: DPs 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 = 5 tassels each
- Long sides: DPs 2, 4, 6 … 46 = 23 tassels each
- Corners: 4 tassels
- Total: 60 tassels, spaced 3 in (7.6 cm) apart
Tie each tassel through the chain stem just above its bobble. Attach the tassels after blocking.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends, hiding them inside the solid dc ribs.
- Soak the runner in cool water for 15 minutes. Press out the water gently; do not wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove excess moisture.
- Lay it flat on mats. Pin the body edges to 16 in x 70.5 in (40.6 cm x 179.1 cm) first.
- Pin each corner loop outward, then pin every DP so the border is 2 in (5.1 cm) deep.
- Check the full size: 20 in x 74.5 in (50.8 cm x 189.2 cm).
- Shape the oval ribs with your fingers so each oval curves smoothly and each leaf opens.
- Let it dry completely, then unpin it and attach the tassels.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every body row has 64 sts.
- All 5 oval columns run straight from end to end, with 23 ovals each.
- Every oval has a 2-dc vein.
- Round 1 has 66 sc on each short side and 282 sc on each long side.
- Round 2 has 23 loops on each short side and 95 on each long side.
- Round 3 has 11 DP on each short side, 47 on each long side, and 4 at the corners.
- All 60 tassels are trimmed evenly.
- Blocked size is 20 in x 74.5 in (50.8 cm x 189.2 cm).
Troubleshooting
Ovals lean or drift. A dc probably went into the wrong stitch. Count positions: each rib should sit one stitch to the side of the rib below it.
Row count is off. Make sure you skipped a stitch for every chain. Counting chains as stitches catches this right away.
Side edges wave. Your turning ch is too loose. Tighten the ch 3, or replace it with ch 2 and a dc.
Border ruffles. Your sc are too loose. Go down a hook size for Round 1 only.
Border pulls in. Use a larger hook for Round 2.
Bobbles flop backward. Pull each bobble’s closing loop snug, and pin the DPs facing forward when you block.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent, then dry flat and reshape the ovals. Do not tumble dry, because the tassels tangle and the lace stretches.
Final Notes
Every size in this runner comes from one measurement chain. A body of 64 sts and 141 rows, worked at 16 sts and 8 rows per 4 in (10.2 cm), measures 16 in x 70.5 in (40.6 cm x 179.1 cm). Round 1 turns that into 66 and 282 sc per side at 4 sc per inch. Round 2 divides those stitches into 3-st loops, and Round 3 puts a point on every second loop. The 2 in (5.1 cm) border brings the runner to 20 in x 74.5 in (50.8 cm x 189.2 cm). Check your gauge early and every count after it will work out.
Happy crocheting!