The Golden Grace Angel is a small lace ornament with a vintage feel. It has a round ivory head, two fan-shaped wings with open spokes, and an A-line skirt with six-petal flowers. A corded gold edge outlines the wings and skirt, and a gold halo and hanging loop finish it.
The colors are kept simple on purpose: soft ivory cotton and one metallic gold. The ivory shows off the lace texture, and the gold catches the light from tree bulbs. Make one for a gift tag, or make a group for a matching tree.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished angel is about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide across the wings and 5 in (12.7 cm) tall, plus a 2 in (5.1 cm) hanging loop.
You’ll crochet a stuffed ball head, two wings and one skirt worked flat in rows, a gold collar, a halo and a hanger. Then you add the gold border, sew the parts together and block.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 5 in (12.7 cm) tall, plus a 2 in (5.1 cm) hanging loop
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Sport (#2) cotton; fine metallic for the gold
- Hook: 2.75 mm
- Number of pieces: One ornament made from 7 small parts (head, 2 wings, skirt, collar, halo, hanger)
- Layout: Wings behind the neck, skirt below, head on top
- Skirt size before border: 4 in (10.2 cm) wide at the hem x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Skirt size after border: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) x 3.75 in (9.5 cm)
- Wingspan: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) before the border, 5 in (12.7 cm) after
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth mercerized cotton. Fuzzy or very soft yarns blur the flower clusters. For the gold, choose a metallic that is about the same thickness as the cotton, or hold a thinner metallic doubled.
- Ivory sport cotton: 20 g, about 62 m
- Gold metallic yarn: 6 g, about 25 m
- 2.75 mm crochet hook
- A small pinch of fiberfill (about 2 g)
- Tapestry needle
- Locking stitch markers
- Rustproof pins and a blocking mat
- Spray bottle; fabric stiffener (optional)
- Scissors
These quantities include a margin of about 25 percent for swatching and sewing tails.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec – sc2tog (single crochet 2 together)
- MR – magic ring
- sp – space
- tch – turning chain
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Cluster (cl): Yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch or space, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * 2 more times in the same place, then yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.
Fan: (cl, ch 3, cl, ch 3, cl) in the same stitch or space. Each fan makes 3 petals.
Rev sc: Work sc from left to right (right-handed). This makes the corded gold edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 25 dc = 4 in (10.2 cm). The 11 skirt rows measure 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
Make one wing before anything else. It’s small, and it tells you right away whether your tension matches. Use these checkpoints:
- Wing after Row 5: 1.75 in (4.4 cm) from the ring to the shell tips, and 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across the shells.
- Head: 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
- Skirt after Row 4: 4 in (10.2 cm) across the row, and about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall.
- Skirt after Row 8: about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall.
- Skirt after Row 11: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with a 4 in (10.2 cm) hem.
If your pieces come out too big, go down 0.25 mm in hook size. If they’re too small, go up 0.25 mm. Small differences of about 0.125 in (0.3 cm) can be fixed when you block.
Head (Ivory)
Work in continuous rounds and mark the first stitch of each round.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc) 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–7: Sc in each st around. (18 sts in each round)
Rnd 8: (Sc in next st, dec) 6 times. (12 sts)
Stuff the head firmly into a smooth ball.
Rnd 9: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Close the hole and keep the tail for sewing. Checkpoint: 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
Wings (Ivory, Make 2)
Ring: Ch 4, then sl st into the first ch to form a ring.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 6 dc in the ring. Turn. (7 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1). *Dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * 4 more times. Dc in the top of the tch. Turn. (7 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same st. *Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * 5 more times, working the last 2 dc into the tch. Turn. (14 dc in 7 pairs, 6 ch-2 sps)
These doubled spokes make the striped look of the wing.
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next dc. *Ch 3, dc in each of the next 2 dc; repeat from * 5 more times. Turn. (14 dc, 6 ch-3 sps)
Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 dc. *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-3 sp, sc in each of the next 2 dc; repeat from * 5 more times. (6 shells, 14 sc)
Fasten off. Checkpoint: 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long and 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across the shells.
Skirt (Ivory)
The skirt is worked flat in rows, from the neck down.
Ring: Ch 4, then sl st into the first ch to form a ring.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 6 dc in the ring. Turn. (7 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1). *Dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * 4 more times. Dc in the top of the tch. Turn. (7 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)
Row 3: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3). *Dc in next dc, ch 3; repeat from * 4 more times. Dc in the 3rd ch of the tch. Turn. (7 dc, 6 ch-3 sps)
Row 4 (conversion): Ch 3 (counts as dc). 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc; repeat from * 5 more times. Turn. Total: 7 dc worked one into each dc, plus 18 dc added in the spaces, for 25 dc. Checkpoint:* 4 in (10.2 cm) across.
First Flower
Row 5 (top petals): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each of the next 8 sts. Skip 3 sts, work a fan in the next st (st 13). Skip 3 sts, dc in each of the last 9 sts. Turn. (18 dc, 1 fan)
Row 6 (flower center): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each of the next 8 dc. Ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2. Dc in each of the last 9 dc. Turn. (18 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch-2 sps, 1 ch-3 center sp)
Row 7 (bottom petals): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each of the next 8 dc. Skip the ch-2 sp and the sc, then work a fan in the center ch-3 sp. Skip the sc and the ch-2 sp, then dc in each of the last 9 dc. Turn. (18 dc, 1 fan)
The three petals from Row 5 and the three from Row 7 meet around the Row 6 space. Together they make one six-petal flower with an open center.
Row 8 (conversion): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each of the next 8 dc. Dc in the first cl, 2 dc in the next ch-3 sp, dc in the center cl, 2 dc in the next ch-3 sp, dc in the last cl. Dc in each of the last 9 dc. Turn. Total: 21 stitches worked one into each dc or cl, plus 4 dc added in the spaces, for 25 dc. Checkpoint: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall.
Flower Band
Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc). *Skip 3 sts, fan in next st, skip 3 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * 2 more times. Turn. (4 dc, 3 fans)
The fans land on sts 5, 13 and 21, so the middle flower sits directly below the first flower.
Row 10: Ch 3 (counts as dc). *Ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc; repeat from * 2 more times. Turn. (4 dc, 6 sc, 6 ch-2 sps, 3 ch-3 center sps)
Row 11 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc). *Fan in next ch-3 center sp, dc in next dc; repeat from * 2 more times. (4 dc, 3 fans)
The bottom petals form the scalloped hem. Fasten off. Checkpoint: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with a 4 in (10.2 cm) hem.
Gold Collar, Halo and Hanger
Collar: With gold, ch 14 and join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around (14 sc). Join and fasten off.
Halo: With gold, ch 24 and join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around (24 sc). Join and fasten off. Checkpoint: 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across.
Hanger: With gold, ch 32. Sl st into the back bump of each ch, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook (31 sl sts). Fasten off. The cord is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long and folds into a 2 in (5.1 cm) loop.
Border (Gold)
Border gauge: 2 sc per dc row-end, and 6.25 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm) along the edge. A dc is about as tall as 2 sc, so 2 sc per row-end keeps the edges flat.
Skirt Border
Hold the skirt with the RS facing. Join the gold at the Row 1 end beside the neck ring.
Row 1:
– First side: 2 sc in each of the 11 row-ends. (22 sc, not counting the corner)
– First corner: 3 sc in the first dc of Row 11.
– Hem: For each fan, sc in the first cl, 3 sc in the ch-3 sp, sc in the center cl, 3 sc in the next ch-3 sp, sc in the last cl (9 sc per fan). Sc in each middle dc (1 sc each).
– Last corner: 3 sc in the last dc.
– Second side: 22 sc along the other side, ending beside the ring.
Hem count: 3 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 3 = 35 sc, including both corner groups. Row total: 22 + 35 + 22 = 79 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, do not turn. Rev sc in each sc across. (79 rev sc) Fasten off.
Why the math works: The side counts follow the row-end gauge: 22 sc ÷ 6.25 = 3.5 in (8.9 cm), the same as the side edge. The hem is only 4 in (10.2 cm) wide, but its 35 stitches go around three curved scallops, which are longer than a straight line. The 9 sc per fan cover 6 chains and 3 clusters, so the scallops stay rounded without ruffling.
Wing Border (Each Wing)
Hold the wing with the RS facing and join the gold at the Row 1 end beside the ring.
Row 1:
– First side: 2 sc in each of the 4 dc row-ends, then 1 sc in the Row 5 end. (9 sc)
– Outer edge: 3 sc in the first sc (corner), then sc in the next sc. For each shell, sc in each of the 2 dc, 3 sc in the ch-2 sp, sc in each of the 2 dc (7 sc per shell). Sc in each sc between the shells. Work 3 sc in the last sc (corner). Outer-edge total: 14 sc + 24 dc + 18 sc in the spaces + 4 extra at the corners = 60 sc.
– Second side: 9 sc.
Row total: 9 + 60 + 9 = 78 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, do not turn. Rev sc in each sc across. (78 rev sc) Fasten off.
Assembly
- Overlap the ring tips of the two wings by 0.25 in (0.6 cm) and sew them together.
- Center the skirt’s neck ring over the joined tips and sew it in place.
- Sew the head so it sits above the skirt ring. Slide the collar over the neck seam and tack it in place.
- Tilt the halo behind the top of the head and stitch it on in 3 places.
- Fold the hanger and sew both ends to the back of the head, under the halo.
Final Blocking
- Mist the angel until it’s damp, but avoid wetting the head.
- Lay it RS up on the mat.
- Pin the skirt to 4.5 in (11.4 cm) at the hem and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
- Pin out each scallop and open each flower center with a pin.
- Pin the wings to a 5 in (12.7 cm) span and open each shell.
- Brush on stiffener if you want a crisp ornament.
- Leave it until it’s completely dry before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The head is round and 1 in (2.5 cm) across, with no fiberfill showing.
- The skirt has 25 sts in Rows 4 and 8, and 3 fans in Row 11.
- Every flower has 6 petals and an open center.
- The skirt border has 79 sts, and each wing border has 78.
- The wingspan is 5 in (12.7 cm), and both wings match.
- The halo is tilted and secure, and the hanger takes the ornament’s weight.
- All tails are woven in.
Troubleshooting
- The skirt cups at Row 4: Your chains in Row 3 are too tight. Work the ch 3 more loosely.
- The flowers look flat: Pull every cluster closed snugly, and open the centers with a pin when you block.
- The border ruffles: Use 1 sc less per fan, or go down a hook size for the border only.
- The border pulls or puckers: Check the side counts. You need 2 sc in every row-end.
- The head is lumpy: Stuff in small pieces, and add more before Rnd 9.
- The metallic yarn splits: Use a hook with a smooth, rounded head and work more slowly.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. If you stiffened the angel, spot clean only, and store it flat between layers of tissue.
Final Notes
The measurements build from one check to the next. If you have 25 dc to 4 in (10.2 cm), the skirt will measure 4 in x 3.5 in (10.2 x 8.9 cm). A 0.25 in (0.6 cm) border brings it to 4.5 in x 3.75 in (11.4 x 9.5 cm). The 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wings, joined at the neck and bordered, give a 5 in (12.7 cm) wingspan.
Check each stage as you go, and you’ll end up with a matching set of angels for your tree. Happy crocheting!