This ornament is one spiral icicle made in a single soft, butter-gold yarn. It starts with a slim chain hanging loop, flares into a full, ruffled corkscrew at the top, and tapers to a neat point at the bottom. On the tree, it catches the light like a twist of golden glass.
The look comes from a simple trick: you work several stitches into every chain of a short foundation chain. The extra stitches have nowhere to go, so the strip twists into a spiral by itself. Near the top you use taller stitches, and more of them, to make the wide upper twists. Near the bottom you use shorter stitches, and fewer of them, to make the narrow point.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The spiral body measures about 4.5 in (11.4 cm), and the hanging loop adds about 1 in (2.5 cm), for a total length of about 5.5 in (14.0 cm). The widest twist is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across.
Construction is quick. You chain the loop, chain the foundation, and then work one long row back toward the loop in four graded sections. It is one piece, so there is no sewing. Most crocheters finish one in 20 to 30 minutes.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) long including the loop; spiral body about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long
- Widest point: about 1.5 in (3.8 cm), at the top twist
- Tip width: about 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Sport (CYC 2); mercerized cotton recommended
- Hook: 3.0 mm
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: a single vertical spiral, with the loop at the top and the point at the bottom
- Piece size before finishing: same as the finished size, because the stitches set the shape, not blocking
- Border depth: no separate border; the edge is the tops of the stitches in the only row
Materials
Yarn: Choose a smooth, firmly twisted sport-weight yarn. Mercerized cotton is ideal: it holds the spiral shape and has a soft sheen like the sample. Soft, fuzzy or very stretchy yarns make floppy twists and blur the stitch definition.
- Butter gold (main and only color): about 5 g / 20 m (about 22 yd) per ornament
These amounts include a margin of roughly 30 percent for a test piece, yarn tails and small differences in tension. One 50 g ball makes about ten ornaments.
Tools:
- 3.0 mm crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Ruler or tape measure
- Spray starch or fabric stiffener (optional)
- A pencil or wooden dowel about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) thick (optional, for shaping)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Special technique – working into the back bump: Turn the foundation chain over so the bumpy ridge on the back faces you, and insert the hook under that single bump for each stitch. This keeps the neat “V” loops of the chain visible as a clean spine down the center of the spiral.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge mainly affects the overall length and how full the twists look. Make one ornament and measure it before you make a set.
Chain gauge: 12 ch = 2 in (5.1 cm), measured relaxed, not stretched.
Stitch gauge (for reference): in a flat swatch, 5 dc rows = about 2 in (5.1 cm) tall. The ornament has only one row, so the chain gauge is the number that matters most.
Checkpoints:
- Hanging loop: folded flat, the 12-ch loop stands about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
- Foundation chain: 29 ch measure about 4.75 in (12.1 cm), relaxed.
- After Section B: the twisted tip is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long and about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide.
- After Section C: the twisted body is about 3 in (7.6 cm) long and about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide.
- After Section D: the full spiral is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long and about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide at the top.
If your ornament is too big: switch to a 2.75 mm hook, or chain more tightly. Don’t leave out chains, because that changes every stitch count after it.
If your ornament is too small or stiff: switch to a 3.25 mm hook. A tight chain also makes the twists cup sharply, and it makes four stitches hard to fit into one chain.
Pattern
Tension tip before you start: Keep the foundation chain even and slightly relaxed. Every chain has to hold two to four stitches, so a chain that is too snug will fight you, especially in Section D. If your chains usually run tight, make only the foundation chain with a 3.25 mm hook, then go back to 3.0 mm for the stitches.
Hanging Loop
Make a slip knot, leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail.
Ch 12. Sl st in the first ch to form a ring. This is the hanging loop.
The sl st join is the “neck” of the ornament, and everything else hangs from it.
Foundation Chain
Without turning, ch 29 from the join.
The first ch from the hook works as a turning chain and is skipped. That leaves 28 working chains. You’ll work back along these 28 chains toward the loop in four sections.
Turn the chain over so the back bumps face you.
Section A – Tip (6 chains)
2 sc in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook. 2 sc in each of the next 5 ch.
Section A count: 6 ch worked × 2 sc = 12 sc.
The tip will look like a slightly wavy strip. That’s correct: it only starts to curl properly once the taller stitches go in.
Section B – Lower Twist (6 chains)
3 hdc in each of the next 6 ch.
Section B count: 6 ch worked × 3 hdc = 18 hdc.
Running total: 12 + 18 = 30 sts over 12 ch.
Stop and give the work a gentle twist in one direction. The stitches should fan out and start to wrap around the chain spine. Check checkpoint 3.
Section C – Middle Twists (8 chains)
3 dc in each of the next 8 ch.
Section C count: 8 ch worked × 3 dc = 24 dc.
Running total: 30 + 24 = 54 sts over 20 ch.
Switching from hdc to dc adds height, so the spiral gets visibly wider here. Keep twisting the work the same way as you go, so every turn spirals in the same direction. Check checkpoint 4.
Section D – Top Twists (8 chains)
4 dc in each of the next 8 ch.
Section D count: 8 ch worked × 4 dc = 32 dc.
You should now be at the last chain before the loop join.
Final total: 12 + 18 + 24 + 32 = 86 sts over 28 ch.
Chain check: 6 + 6 + 8 + 8 = 28 working chains, plus 1 skipped turning ch = 29 ch. Every chain except the skipped one has stitches in it.
Finishing the Top
Sl st into the sl st that joined the hanging loop. Fasten off, leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail.
Weave the top tail down through the first few dc of Section D and back up, so it anchors the neck firmly. Weave the starting tail around the base of the loop the same way. The neck carries the weight of the ornament, so make both tails secure.
Check checkpoint 5.
Border
This ornament has no added border round. The edge you see is just the tops of the 86 stitches from the single row. That is what gives the spiral its soft, scalloped outer rim.
Edge count: 12 sc + 18 hdc + 24 dc + 32 dc = 86 edge sts.
Why the math works: A strip lies flat only when its outer edge is about as long as its spine. Here the spine is 28 chains, but the outer edge holds 86 stitches, and the top of each stitch is about as wide as one chain. The outer edge is roughly three times longer than the spine, so the extra length has to go somewhere. It wraps around the spine as a corkscrew.
The ratio of stitches to chains changes along the ornament:
- Section A: 2 sts per ch – a slight ripple, right for the point
- Section B: 3 short sts per ch – a tight, narrow twist
- Section C: 3 tall sts per ch – a wider twist
- Section D: 4 tall sts per ch – the fullest ruffle, at the top
A sc or sl st edging would stiffen the rim and flatten the twists, so it isn’t recommended.
Final Blocking
The stitches do most of the shaping, but a light block makes the spiral crisp and even.
- Shape by hand. Hold the loop and twist the body the same way the stitches naturally curl. Nudge each twist so it sits evenly on the spine.
- Optional dowel. For very even twists, wrap the body around a pencil or dowel about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) thick, letting the stitch tops flare outward.
- Mist. Spray lightly with water or diluted spray starch. Don’t soak it.
- Reshape. Pinch each twist so the stitch fans stand out and the tip comes to a clean point.
- Dry hanging. Hang the ornament by its loop, or stand the dowel upright, until it is completely dry. This takes a few hours.
- Measure. The finished ornament should be about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) long including the loop, and about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) at the widest twist.
For a firmer ornament that keeps its shape for years, use fabric stiffener instead of starch and let it dry overnight.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The hanging loop is about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall, and its base is firmly secured.
- The foundation chain had 29 ch, with 28 chains worked.
- The section counts are 12 sc, 18 hdc, 24 dc and 32 dc, for 86 sts in total.
- Every twist spirals in the same direction.
- The widest twist is at the top, and the ornament narrows steadily to the tip.
- The tip forms a clean point about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
- The spiral body is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long.
- Both tails are woven in and hidden inside the stitches.
- The ornament hangs straight from its loop.
Troubleshooting
The spiral doesn’t twist. Your chain may be loose compared with your stitches, or some increases may be missing. Recount: each chain must hold the full number of stitches for its section.
The twists go both ways. You twisted the work in both directions while crocheting. Untwist the body completely, twist it one way only, and block it.
The tip is blunt. Check that Section A uses sc, not hdc. Working the first six chains a little more tightly also helps.
It’s hard to fit 4 dc into one chain. Your chain is too tight. Make the foundation chain with a hook one size larger, then switch back to 3.0 mm for the stitches.
The ornament leans to one side. The tails at the neck are pulling unevenly. Re-weave them so they balance on both sides of the loop base.
The twists are floppy. The yarn is too soft or stretchy. Use mercerized cotton, or stiffen the finished piece.
The ornament is much longer than 5.5 in (14.0 cm). Your chain gauge is loose. Check that 12 ch measure 2 in (5.1 cm), and change hooks if needed.
Care
Spot clean, or hand wash gently in cool water. Roll it in a towel, reshape it and hang it to dry, and stiffen it again after washing if you used stiffener.
Final Notes
The whole ornament comes from one chain of measurements. The 12-ch loop gives about 1 in (2.5 cm) of hanger. At 12 ch = 2 in (5.1 cm), the 29-ch foundation makes a spine about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) long. The 86 stitches worked in four graded sections along its 28 working chains twist that spine into a spiral body about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long. The spiral widens from 0.5 in (1.3 cm) at the tip to 1.5 in (3.8 cm) at the top. Loop plus body gives a finished ornament of about 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
Once your first ornament matches these numbers, the rest go quickly. Hang several at different heights on the tree, or tie one onto a gift as a small golden finishing touch.
Happy crocheting!