The Harbor Stripe holder is a three-tier wall organizer that keeps three spare rolls in sight and within reach. It has a crisp nautical look: deep navy and bright white clusters that look like small waves around each basket, finished with a clean white rim.
Each basket has a solid navy base. The walls alternate rounds of white and navy clusters, and each round is offset from the one below, so the white bobbles sit between the navy ones. Two slim navy side straps link the baskets. A tapered navy tab with one white stripe holds the whole piece on a wooden ring.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide and about 20 in (50.8 cm) long, measured from the bottom of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket. Each basket is 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.
How it’s made: you crochet three identical baskets in joined rounds, two long side straps in rows, and one tapered hanging tab in rows. Then you sew the straps to the sides of the baskets, sew the tab inside the back of the top basket, and fold the tab’s strap over the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide × about 20 in (50.8 cm) long
- Skill level: Easy–Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 6 (3 baskets, 2 side straps, 1 hanging tab)
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets, with 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps
- Piece size (basket): 5.75 in (14.6 cm) diameter × 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall
- Basket height before rim border: 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- Rim border depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth, firm 100% cotton or cotton-blend worsted yarn. Cotton keeps the basket walls upright and handles bathroom humidity well. Avoid fuzzy or very soft acrylics, because they let the baskets sag.
- Navy: 180 g, about 340 m
- White: 100 g, about 190 m
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- One 3 in (7.6 cm) wooden ring
- 4 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Spray bottle and a towel for blocking
These quantities include a margin of about 20% for gauge swatches and differences in tension.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Cluster (cl): [Yarn over, insert hook in the indicated stitch or space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 3 times. You now have 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through all 4 loops.
Beginning cluster (beg cl): Ch 2, then work [yarn over, insert, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times in the same stitch or space. Yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. The ch-2 counts as the first leg of the cluster.
Color change: Work the final yarn over of the joining slip stitch with the new color. Keep the old color on the inside and carry it loosely up the inside of the wall. It never floats for more than one round.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm), worked with the 4.5 mm hook.
Make the base of one basket (Rounds 1–12) before you do anything else. That base is your real gauge test.
- After Round 6 (36 sts): diameter is 2.9 in (7.4 cm)
- After Round 12 (72 sts): diameter is 5.75 in (14.6 cm)
- After Round 20: wall height is 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- After Round 24: total height is 4.25 in (10.8 cm)
If the base is too big: change to a 4.0 mm hook. A base that is too big gives you a floppy basket and a roll that tips over.
If the base is too small: change to a 5.0 mm hook. Do not add increase rounds. The cluster pattern needs exactly 72 stitches.
If the base ripples or cups: you are working looser or tighter than gauge. Change the hook size rather than the number of increases.

Basket (Make 3)
Start with navy.
Base
Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, then inc in each st around. Join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, then work [sc 1, inc] 6 times. Join. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, then work [sc 2, inc] 6 times. Join. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, then work [sc 3, inc] 6 times. Join. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, then work [sc 4, inc] 6 times. Join. (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, then work [sc 5, inc] 6 times. Join. (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, then work [sc 6, inc] 6 times. Join. (48 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, then work [sc 7, inc] 6 times. Join. (54 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, then work [sc 8, inc] 6 times. Join. (60 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, then work [sc 9, inc] 6 times. Join. (66 sts)
Round 12: Ch 1, then work [sc 10, inc] 6 times. Join. (72 sts)
Tip: on even rounds, move the increases half a repeat so they don’t stack. The base will stay round instead of turning into a hexagon.
Walls
Round 13 (turning round): Ch 1, then sc in the BLO of each st around. Join. (72 sts) The unworked front loops make a sharp edge where the base meets the wall.
Round 14: Ch 1, then sc in each st around. Join, changing to white. (72 sts)
Round 15 (white): Beg cl in the same st, ch 1, skip 1 st. Cl in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st. Repeat from * 34 more times. Join to the top of the beg cl, changing to navy. (36 cl, 36 ch-1 sps)
Round 16 (navy): Sl st into the next ch-1 sp. Beg cl in the same sp, ch 1. Cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Repeat from * 34 more times. Join, changing to white. (36 cl, 36 ch-1 sps)
Each cluster sits in a space of the round below. This is what offsets the clusters, so the white and navy bobbles nest between each other.
Round 17 (white): Repeat Round 16, changing to navy at the join. (36 cl)
Round 18 (navy): Repeat Round 16, changing to white. (36 cl)
Round 19 (white): Repeat Round 16, changing to navy. (36 cl)
Round 20 (navy): Repeat Round 16, changing to white. Fasten off navy. (36 cl, 36 ch-1 sps)
Checkpoint: the wall measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) from the turning ridge, and the basket still measures 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
Go straight on to the rim border below. Then make two more baskets the same way.
Make All Pieces
Baskets (3): each needs about 40 g navy and 25 g white.
Side straps (2), navy: Ch 4. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch across. (3 sts) Rows 2–71: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sts) Fasten off and leave a long tail. Each strap measures 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide × 15.75 in (40.0 cm) long.
Hanging tab (1): With navy, ch 21.
- Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch across. (20 sts)
- Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog. (18 sts)
- Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (18 sts)
- Rows 4–7: Repeat Rows 2–3 twice. (16, 16, 14, 14 sts) At the end of Row 7, work 1 more decrease row (14 → 12 sts) as Row 8, and change to white on its last yarn over.
- Row 9 (white): Sc across. (12 sts)
- Row 10 (white): Decrease row. (10 sts) Change to navy on the last yarn over.
- Row 11: Sc across. (10 sts)
- Row 12: Decrease row. (8 sts)
- Row 13: Sc across. (8 sts)
- Row 14: Decrease row. (6 sts)
- Rows 15–36: Sc across. (6 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
The tapered part (Rows 1–14) is 3.1 in (7.9 cm) tall. The strap part (Rows 15–36) is 4.9 in (12.4 cm) long and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide.
Layout:
[ wooden ring ]
[ tab + strap ]
|S| [ Basket 1 ] |S|
|S| 1.5 in gap |S|
|S| [ Basket 2 ] |S|
|S| 1.5 in gap |S|
|S| [ Basket 3 ] |S|
S marks the two side straps.
Rim Border (Each Basket)
Border gauge: 4 sc per inch (4 sc per 2.5 cm). The 4 border rounds add 0.75 in (1.9 cm) of height.
To keep the counts easy to check, think of the 72 rim stitches as four quarters of 18. In Round 21, place markers in stitches 1, 19, 37, and 55. Stitch 1 is the left-side strap position, stitch 19 is the center back, stitch 37 is the right-side strap position, and stitch 55 is the center front.
Round 21 (white, conversion round): Ch 1. Sc in the top of the next cl, sc in the next ch-1 sp. Repeat around. Join. (36 sc worked into clusters + 36 sc worked into spaces = 72 sts, 18 per quarter)
Round 22: Ch 1, then sc in each st around. Join. (72 sts, 18 per quarter)
Round 23: Ch 1, then sc in each st around. Join. (72 sts, 18 per quarter) Move the markers up to this round.
Round 24: Ch 1, then rev sc in each st around, working from left to right. Join. (72 sts, 18 per quarter) Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: The base, the walls, and the rim all hold 72 stitches. Because the count never changes, the walls rise straight up with no flare. 72 ÷ 4 sts per inch = 18 in (45.7 cm) around. 18 in ÷ π = 5.73 in, so the basket is 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across. A standard roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, so it drops in with room to spare. In Round 21, each cluster and each space gets exactly 1 sc, so the 72 stitches come back without any extra increases.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with navy, going through both loops of the basket stitches and the edge stitches of the strap.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Line up the strap rows against the basket height. 4.25 in is about 19 strap rows, and 1.5 in is about 7 strap rows.
- Rows 1–19: sew onto the outside wall of Basket 1. Row 1 sits flush with the top of the rim, centered on the marker for stitch 1 or stitch 37.
- Rows 20–26: leave free. This is the gap.
- Rows 27–45: sew onto Basket 2, with Row 27 level with that basket’s rim.
- Rows 46–52: leave free. This is the second gap.
- Rows 53–71: sew onto Basket 3. Row 71 ends at the turning ridge.
That gives 19 + 7 + 19 + 7 + 19 = 71 rows.
Sew both long edges of each strap down, plus across the top and bottom of every section that sits on a basket. Use one strap on the left side (marker for stitch 1) and one on the right side (marker for stitch 37).
Tab: Center tab Rows 1–4 on the inside back wall of Basket 1, across rim stitches 9–28 (20 sts, matching the 20 sts of tab Row 1). Whipstitch along all four edges. Wrap the strap (Rows 15–36) over the wooden ring toward the back. Sew Row 36 across Row 15.
Tension advice: Pull each stitch snug, but don’t pull so hard that the wall puckers. Keep the seams on the straps’ edges so they stay out of sight.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder with no rolls in it. Each gap should measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm), and the full length should be about 20 in (50.8 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket until it is damp, not soaked.
- Put a roll wrapped in plastic, or a rolled towel 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across, inside each basket.
- Shape the walls so they are straight and the rims are round, and press the bases flat.
- Pin the tab flat so the taper looks even on both sides.
- Let everything dry upright for 24 hours.
- Hang the holder empty for a few hours so the straps settle before you add the rolls.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every basket has 72 sts at the rim and measures 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
- Every wall round has exactly 36 clusters.
- The rounds alternate white, navy, white, navy, white, navy from the bottom up.
- The color-change joins line up in one column at the back of each basket.
- The straps sit exactly opposite each other, and both gaps are 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- The tab is centered and has a single white stripe.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
The base curls up like a bowl: you are working too tightly. Go up one hook size or relax your tension.
The base ruffles: you are working too loosely. Go down one hook size.
The cluster count is off: count the ch-1 spaces in the round below. There should be exactly 36. Fix the round before going on.
The join seam travels around the basket: always start the next round in the first ch-1 space after the join.
The basket leans when hung: check that the straps really are opposite each other at stitches 1 and 37.
The tab’s edges are wavy: you probably missed a decrease row. Count the rows against the list (20, 18, 18, 16 sts, and so on).
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Reshape the holder and dry it flat, with each basket stuffed so it holds its shape.

Final Notes
Your measurements build on each other in this order:
- The gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 72-stitch base that is 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
- The 36-cluster walls rise straight to 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
- The 72-stitch rim border adds 0.75 in (1.9 cm), so each basket is 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.
- 71-row straps hold three baskets with two 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps.
- With the tab and ring, the holder hangs about 20 in (50.8 cm) long.
Check each step as you go, and the finished piece will hang straight and even. Happy crocheting!