This hanging holder stores three toilet paper rolls in a column of lacy pockets. It is a practical bathroom piece that also looks pretty on the wall.
The palette is soft. The back panel and pockets are light lilac, each pocket rim has medium purple scallops, and a dark plum butterfly sits at the front of every pocket. The shell lattice keeps the pockets light, and the solid single crochet panel keeps the holder sturdy.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Hanging from the bottom edge to the top of the folded strap (ring not included), the finished holder measures about 7.8 in (19.8 cm) wide and 26 in (66.0 cm) long. Each pocket stands out about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) from the wall.
Construction overview: you work the back panel in rows, tapering the top into a strap. Each pocket is worked in the round, starting from an oval base. The butterflies are small motifs worked into a magic ring. You then sew the pockets to the panel, add a two-row border to the panel, fold the strap over a wooden ring and sew the butterflies on.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 7.8 in x 26 in (19.8 cm x 66.0 cm), ring not included
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 7 (1 panel, 3 pockets, 3 butterflies) plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 3 pockets stacked vertically on 1 panel
- Piece sizes: panel body 7 x 22 in (17.8 x 55.9 cm); pocket base 7 x 4.5 in (17.8 x 11.4 cm); pocket height 3.5 in (8.9 cm); butterfly 2.25 x 1.75 in (5.7 x 4.4 cm)
- Size before border: 7 x 22 in (17.8 x 55.9 cm) panel body
- Border depth: about 0.4 in (1.0 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth worsted cotton of about 155 m per 100 g (170 yd per 3.5 oz). Cotton holds its shape and doesn’t stretch much under the weight of the rolls. Acrylic will work, but the pockets will be softer.
- Light lilac (main color): 220 g / 340 m
- Medium purple (scallops): 25 g / 40 m
- Dark plum (butterflies): 15 g / 25 m
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
– Tapestry needle
– Locking stitch markers (at least 10)
– Straight pins
– Tape measure
– Scissors
– Spray bottle
All quantities include a margin of about 20% for gauge differences and sewing.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
- BLO: back loop only
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sp: space
- RS: right side
Special stitch: shell. Work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into the same stitch or space.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc rows. That works out to 4 sts and 4.5 rows per inch.
Make one pocket first. It is the most gauge-sensitive piece and uses every stitch in the pattern. Check these measurements as you go:
- Pocket base after Rnd 5: about 5 x 2.25 in (12.7 x 5.7 cm)
- Pocket base after Rnd 10: about 7 x 4.5 in (17.8 x 11.4 cm)
- Pocket wall after Rnd 17: about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall
- Pocket wall after Rnd 20: about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Panel after Row 18: 7 x 4 in (17.8 x 10.2 cm)
If your pieces are too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If they are too small, go up 0.5 mm. Make sure a standard roll fits inside the finished base before you continue.

Back Panel
Use light lilac.
Row 1: Ch 29, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (28 sc)
Rows 2–99: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (28 sc)
The panel body should now measure 7 x 22 in (17.8 x 55.9 cm).
Taper
Rows 100–107: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. The rows end with 26, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14 and 12 sc.
The taper is 8 rows, about 1.8 in (4.6 cm) tall.
Strap
Rows 108–125: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (12 sc)
The strap is 18 rows, 3 x 4 in (7.6 x 10.2 cm). Fasten off and leave a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail for sewing.
Mark the pocket lines. Place markers at both ends of Row 2, Row 33 and Row 64. These are the base lines for Pockets 1, 2 and 3. The base lines are 31 rows apart, which is about 6.9 in (17.5 cm).
Pocket (make 3)
Start with light lilac.
Oval Base
The base has two straight sides of 10 sts and two curved ends. Each round adds 3 sts to each curved end.
Rnd 1: Ch 13. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 10 ch. Work 3 sc in last ch. Working along the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 10 ch, then 2 sc in the first ch. Join with sl st to first sc. (26 sc)
Rnds 2–10: In the steps below, X is the round number minus 2. Ch 1, sc in first X sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts. Then sc in next X sts, 2 sc in next st 3 times. Sc in next 10 sts. Then sc in next X sts, 2 sc in next st 2 times. Join.
Round totals:
| Rnd | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sts | 32 | 38 | 44 | 50 | 56 | 62 | 68 | 74 | 80 |
Check the Rnd 10 count: 10 + 10 + 30 + 10 + 20 = 80 sts.
Walls
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (80 sc) The base turns upward here, and the unused front loops form a clear base line.
Rnds 12–13: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (80 sc) These rounds make the solid band at the bottom of the wall, about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall.
Shell Lattice
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in next st, skip next st, shell in next st, skip next st. Repeat from * 20 times total, then join to first sc. (20 shells, 20 sc)
Rnd 15: Sl st in next 2 dc and in the ch-1 sp. Ch 1, sc in same sp, shell in next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * around, ending with a shell in the last sc. Join to first sc. (20 shells, 20 sc)
Rnds 16–17: Repeat Rnd 15. Each round shifts the shells half a repeat, which builds the diamond lattice.
Checkpoint: The wall should be about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall.
Top Band
Rnd 18 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in first sc. Sc in first dc of next shell, skip next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, skip next dc, sc in last dc of shell, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around, leaving out the final sc. Join.
Count: 20 repeats x (1 sc in the sc + 3 sc across the shell) = 80 sc.
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (80 sc) Fasten off light lilac.
Scallop Rim
Rnd 20: Join medium purple in any st. Ch 1, sc in next st, skip next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st. Repeat from * 20 times total, then join. (20 scallops, 20 sc) Fasten off.
The finished pocket stands about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
Butterfly (make 3)
Use dark plum.
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring and work the four wings into it:
– Lower wing: ch 3, 3 dc in ring, ch 3, sl st in ring.
– Upper wing: ch 4, 4 tr in ring, ch 4, sl st in ring.
– Second upper wing: ch 4, 4 tr in ring, ch 4, sl st in ring.
– Second lower wing: ch 3, 3 dc in ring, ch 3, sl st in ring.
Pull the ring tight. (4 wings)
Rnd 2 (outline): Sl st into the first ch-3 sp. Then outline each wing:
– Each lower wing: 3 sc in ch-3 sp, 2 sc in each of 3 dc, 3 sc in ch-3 sp (12 sc).
– Each upper wing: 4 sc in ch-4 sp, 2 sc in each of 4 tr, 4 sc in ch-4 sp (16 sc).
Sl st into the ring between wings. Total: 12 + 16 + 16 + 12 = 56 sc. Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
Body: Use the tail to wrap the center vertically 4 times. Then make two straight stitches above the upper wings for antennae, each about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) long. The butterfly measures 2.25 x 1.75 in (5.7 x 4.4 cm).
Make All Pieces
- Light lilac: 1 back panel; Rnds 1–19 of 3 pockets
- Medium purple: Rnd 20 of 3 pockets
- Dark plum: 3 butterflies
Layout, top to bottom:
[ wooden ring + folded strap ]
[ taper, Rows 100–107 ]
[ open panel, Rows 82–99 ]
[ POCKET 3 – base on Row 64 ]
[ POCKET 2 – base on Row 33 ]
[ POCKET 1 – base on Row 2 ]
[ bottom border ]
Joining
Method: whipstitch with light lilac.
- Mark the back section. On each pocket, mark 28 consecutive sts of Rnd 11, centered on one straight side of the oval. These 28 sts sit flat against the panel. The other 52 sts form the curved front (28 + 52 = 80).
- Sew the base line (stitch to stitch). Line up the pocket’s 28 marked stitches with the panel’s 28 stitches on its base row (Row 2, 33 or 64). Each pocket stitch matches one panel stitch, so the panel doesn’t gather or stretch. Whipstitch each unused front loop of Rnd 10 to its matching panel stitch.
- Sew the sides. At each end of the back section, whipstitch the pocket wall to the edge stitches of the panel, from the base line up to Rnd 19. That covers about 14 panel rows, roughly 3 in (7.6 cm).
- Tack the rim. Tack Rnd 19 to the panel at the center back and at both corners.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. If the panel puckers behind the base, loosen the stitches.
Size checkpoint: Each pocket stands out about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) from the panel. The pockets’ scallop tips sit about 3.9 in (9.9 cm), 10.8 in (27.4 cm) and 17.7 in (45.0 cm) above the panel’s bottom edge.
Sew one butterfly to the center front of each pocket, centered over Rnds 15–16.
Border
Border gauge: same as the panel. Work 4 sc per inch along the edges and 8 sc for every 9 row ends along the sides.
Row 1 (RS): With RS facing, join light lilac at the left edge of Row 99, where the taper begins. Work down the left side, across the bottom and up the right side:
– Left side: 88 sc evenly spaced along the row ends of Rows 99 to 1
– Bottom: 3 sc in the first foundation st, sc in each of the next 26 sts, 3 sc in the last foundation st
– Right side: 88 sc evenly spaced along the row ends of Rows 1 to 99
Counts: left side 88, bottom 32 (28 foundation sts + 4 extra corner sts), right side 88. Total 208. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st. Work 3 sc in the center st of each bottom corner.
Counts: right side 88, bottom 36 (32 + 4), left side 88. Total 212. Fasten off.
Why the math works: The panel has 99 rows at 4.5 rows per inch, which is 22 in (55.9 cm). At 4 sc per inch, 22 in needs 88 sc. That is 8 sc for every 9 rows, so the sides lie flat without ruffling. The bottom has one sc per foundation stitch, and each corner gets 2 extra sts per row so it turns cleanly.
The two border rows add about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) to each edge. The width becomes 7.8 in (19.8 cm) and the body length becomes 22.4 in (56.9 cm).
Ring: Fold the strap through the wooden ring toward the back. Sew Row 125 to Row 108 to make a loop about 2 in (5.1 cm) deep.
Final Blocking
- Lay the holder face up on a towel or blocking mat.
- Spray it evenly with water until damp.
- Pin the panel to 7.8 x 26 in (19.8 x 66.0 cm).
- Push each pocket open from the inside and shape the oval front.
- Pin each scallop point outward.
- Lay the butterfly wings flat with your fingertips.
- Leave it to dry completely, at least 24 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Panel measures 7.8 x 26 in (19.8 x 66.0 cm)
- [ ] Each pocket has 80 sts in Rnd 19 and 20 scallops
- [ ] Each pocket’s base line is sewn stitch to stitch: 28 sts to 28 sts
- [ ] Pocket spacing is even, 31 rows apart
- [ ] Butterflies are centered and level
- [ ] Border counts are 88 / 36 / 88
- [ ] Strap is sewn securely around the ring
- [ ] All ends are woven in
Troubleshooting
- Pocket base cups: Your tension is tight. Loosen it, or check that each end gets 3 increases per round.
- Pocket base ruffles: You have extra increases. Recount the round against the table.
- Shells lean: Check that each shell sits in an sc from the previous round.
- Panel sides wave: You have too many border sts. Keep to 8 sc per 9 rows.
- Pocket sags: Add more tacking stitches at the rim corners.
- Rolls don’t fit: Add one more base round (86 sts). Rnd 14 then needs one extra shell repeat with a different stitch skip, so recalculate before you start the walls.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. Reshape the pockets while they are damp.

Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. The 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) gauge gives a 7 x 22 in (17.8 x 55.9 cm) panel body and 80-stitch pockets with a 7 x 4.5 in (17.8 x 11.4 cm) base. Joining 28 pocket stitches to 28 panel stitches keeps every seam flat. The border’s 88 / 36 / 88 count then brings the holder to 7.8 x 26 in (19.8 x 66.0 cm). If you check each stage as you go, the three pockets will line up neatly on the wall.
Happy crocheting!