This hanging bag holder is shaped like a tall lilac tulip. The body is a soft tube worked in a staggered shell stitch, so the fabric is full of little fans and open diamonds. The top finishes in eight rounded petal scallops, and two sage green leaves sit on the lower sides. A matching green strap loops over a cabinet knob or hook, and you pull plastic bags out through the small opening at the bottom.
The palette is lilac for the flower body, sage green for the leaves and strap, and a pale cream for the thin outline around each leaf. It reads as a cottage-style kitchen accessory: light, practical, and a little floral.
The pattern is written in US crochet terms. Laid flat, the finished holder measures about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 12.75 in (32.4 cm) tall, not counting the strap. The strap adds a hanging loop of about 9 in (22.9 cm).
Construction is simple. You work the body in joined rounds from the bottom up: a solid ring of single crochet for the opening, a few increase rounds, fourteen shell rounds, then the scalloped top edge. Next you crochet two leaves around a foundation chain and one flat strap, and sew all three onto the body.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (flat): 6 in (15.2 cm) wide x 12.75 in (32.4 cm) tall
- Circumference: 12 in (30.5 cm)
- Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted weight (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 4 (1 body, 2 leaves, 1 strap), sewn into one finished holder
- Layout: Leaves on the left and right sides of the front, strap ends sewn inside the top at the two side folds
- Body size before top edge: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide x 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall
- Top edge (scallop border) depth: 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
- Leaf size: about 5 in (12.7 cm) long x 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide
- Strap size: 20 in (50.8 cm) long x 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the shell shapes crisply, doesn’t stretch much when the holder is full of bags, and survives washing. Avoid fuzzy yarns, which blur the fans.
- Lilac (Color A, body): 100 g, about 155 m
- Sage green (Color B, leaves and strap): 35 g, about 55 m
- Pale cream (Color C, leaf outline): 5 g, about 8 m
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 to 6 locking stitch markers
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking surface
All quantities include a margin of about 15 percent for your gauge swatch and weaving in ends.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sk = skip
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp = space
- rep = repeat
- Rnd = round
Special stitch: Shell = 5 dc worked into the same stitch. In this pattern a shell always sits in a sc and always spans a 6-stitch repeat (sc + 5 dc).
Petal fan = 9 dc worked into the same stitch, used only on the scallop round.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) with a 4.5 mm hook. In the shell pattern, one repeat (6 sts) = 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide, and 2 shell rounds = 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Test the body base first. Rounds 1 through 6 work as your gauge swatch, and you keep them if they measure correctly.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 2: the opening ring measures 6 in (15.2 cm) around, or about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across.
- After Rnd 6: the edge measures 12 in (30.5 cm) around. Laid flat, the ring is about 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across.
- After Rnd 8: the body laid flat is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide.
- After Rnd 20: the body is 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall from the bottom fold.
- After Rnd 23: the total height is 12.75 in (32.4 cm).
If the work is too big, go down to a 4.0 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 5.0 mm hook. Do not add or remove stitches. Every count depends on the 6-stitch repeat.
Body
Use Color A. Work in joined rounds with the right side facing you. Do not turn. The ch-1 at the start of a round never counts as a stitch. The ch-3 at the start of a B round counts as 1 dc.
Foundation: Ch 24 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Be careful not to twist it.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to first sc. (24 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (24 sts)
These two rounds form the firm rim around the bag opening.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, sl st to first sc. (30 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, sl st to first sc. (36 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, *sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, sl st to first sc. (42 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, *sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, sl st to first sc. (48 sts)
Check your gauge now. You should have 12 in (30.5 cm) around the edge. From here, the body goes straight up with no more increases. The shells pull the ring into the rounded cup shape at the bottom.
Shell Rounds
Rnd 7 (Round A): Ch 1, sc in first st, *sk 2 sts, shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * 6 more times, sk 2 sts, shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st to first sc. (8 shells and 8 sc, 48 sts)
Rnd 8 (Round B): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same st as join (half shell made), *sk 2 dc, sc in next dc (center of shell), sk 2 dc, shell in next sc; rep from * 6 more times, sk 2 dc, sc in center dc of last shell, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in same st as beginning ch-3, sl st to top of ch-3. (8 shells, with 1 split across the join, and 8 sc, 48 sts)
The shells of Round B sit on top of the sc of Round A, and the sc of Round B sit in the center of the shells below. This offset is what creates the open diamond gaps.
Rnd 9 (Round A): Ch 1, sc in top of ch-3 (center of split shell), *sk 2 sts, shell in next sc, sk 2 sts, sc in next dc (center of shell); rep from * 6 more times, sk 2 sts, shell in next sc, sk 2 sts, sl st to first sc. (48 sts)
Rnds 10 to 20: Alternate Round B and Round A, ending with a Round B on Rnd 20. Even rounds are Round B, and odd rounds are Round A. (48 sts each round)
That makes 14 shell rounds in total (Rnds 7 to 20). Together they add 10.5 in (26.7 cm) of height. With the base, the body now measures 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide. Do not fasten off.
Scalloped Top Edge (Border)
Border gauge: One petal scallop is worked over one 6-stitch repeat, so each scallop is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide. That gives 8 scallops around and 4 on each flat side. The three border rounds add 1.25 in (3.2 cm): about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) for Rnd 21, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) for Rnd 22, and 0.25 in (0.6 cm) for Rnd 23.
Rnd 21 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in each st around, including the top of the ch-3, sl st to first sc. (48 + 0 = 48 sts, which is 24 sts on each flat side)
This round levels the shell tops into an even base for the petals.
Rnd 22 (growth round): Ch 1, sc in first st, *sk 2 sts, 9 dc in next st (petal fan), sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * 6 more times, sk 2 sts, 9 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st to first sc. (80 sts: 8 petal fans of 9 dc plus 8 sc, which is 40 sts on each flat side)
Each petal fan has 9 dc where a shell has 5, so the top flares outward like an opening tulip.
Rnd 23 (trim round): Ch 1, sl st in first sc, *sc in next 4 dc, 3 sc in next dc (center of fan), sc in next 4 dc, sl st in next sc; rep from * 7 more times, ending the last repeat with sc in last 4 dc and sl st to first sl st. (80 worked one per stitch + 16 extra = 96 sts. That is 12 per scallop and 48 on each flat side.)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: Rnds 7 to 20 have exactly 8 repeats of 6 sts. Rnd 21 keeps all 48 sts. Rnd 22 places one petal fan per repeat, so the scallops line up with the shell columns below. Rnd 23 adds 2 extra sc at the center of each of the 8 fans (16 total) so the curves stay rounded. The sl st in each sc pulls the work into a sharp V between petals.
Leaves (Make 2)
Use Color B for Rnd 1 and Color C for Rnd 2.
Foundation: With Color B, ch 21.
Rnd 1: Working into the back bumps, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 8 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 2 ch, (sc, ch 2, sc) in last ch for the tip. Rotate the work and continue along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 8 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 2 ch, sl st in last ch, sl st to first sl st. (40 sts plus a ch-2 tip sp: 20 on each side, counting the tip sc on each side)
Fasten off Color B, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail at the base for sewing.
Rnd 2: Join Color C in any st along the base. Ch 1, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in the ch-2 tip sp, sl st to first sc. (40 worked one per stitch + 3 in the tip = 43 sts)
Fasten off Color C and weave in its ends.
Center vein (optional): With Color B, work surface sl sts along the foundation chain from the base to about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the tip.
Each leaf should measure about 5 in (12.7 cm) long and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide.
Strap
With Color B, ch 81.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (80 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (80 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap should measure 20 in (50.8 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
Make All Pieces
- Color A: 1 body
- Color B with Color C outline: 2 leaves
- Color B: 1 strap
Placement, viewed from the front with the body laid flat:
[strap end] ~~~ scallops ~~~ [strap end]
| |
| shell body |
| [leaf] [leaf] |
| |
( bottom opening )
Joining (Attaching the Leaves and Strap)
Method: Use a whipstitch with the tapestry needle and matching yarn: Color B for the leaves and strap.
Strap: Lay the body flat so the two side folds sit at the edges. Place each strap end inside the body at one side fold, with 1 in (2.5 cm) of strap overlapping the inside of Rnds 19 to 21. Sew the overlap to the inside of the fabric through the sc and the shell centers. Avoid the open gaps. Leave 18 in (45.7 cm) of strap free, which forms a 9 in (22.9 cm) hanging loop.
Leaves: Pin one leaf on each side of the front. Put the base of the leaf about 2 in (5.1 cm) above the bottom opening rim, near the side fold, and angle the tip up and slightly outward. Whipstitch through the back loops of Rnd 2 (Color C), going into a sc or dc of the body, never into a gap. Sew every second stitch of the leaf edge.
Tension: Keep the sewing stitches snug but not tight. If you pull too hard, the shells under the leaf will pucker and the body won’t hang straight.
Size checkpoint: After sewing, lay the holder flat. It should still measure 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 12.75 in (32.4 cm) tall.
Final Blocking
- Wet the finished holder with cool water, or spray it until it is evenly damp.
- Gently press out the extra water in a towel. Do not wring it.
- Lay it flat with the side folds at the edges and the leaves facing up.
- Pat the body to 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 12.75 in (32.4 cm) tall.
- Pin each petal scallop at its center and open the fans so they look rounded.
- Pin the leaf tips so they lie flat against the body.
- Straighten the strap and pin it flat.
- Let it dry completely before you unpin it and hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The body has 48 sts in every round from Rnd 6 to Rnd 21.
- There are 8 shells per round, stacked in an even offset with no slanted columns.
- There are 8 petal scallops, each with 12 trim sts, for 96 sts total.
- The bottom opening has a firm sc rim and stretches enough to pull bags through.
- The two leaves match in size and sit at the same height.
- The strap ends are sewn inside at the side folds, so the holder hangs level.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
- Shell columns slant: Check that each sc of a Round B goes into the center dc of the shell below.
- The stitch count drifts from 48: Count the repeats. Most often a sk 2 was missed next to the join.
- The top flares too much: Use 7 dc per petal fan instead of 9. Rnd 22 then has 64 sts, so Rnd 23 works as sl st, sc in 3, 3 sc in center, sc in 3, for 10 sts per scallop and 80 total.
- The bottom ruffles: Your base rounds are too loose, so work Rnds 1 to 6 with a hook one size smaller.
- The leaves curl: Block them with pins before sewing.
- The holder tilts: Re-sew the strap ends exactly at opposite side folds.
Care
Hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cold cycle in a laundry bag. Reshape and dry flat.
Final Notes
The whole holder follows one measurement chain. With a gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the 48-stitch body is 12 in (30.5 cm) around and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat. Fourteen shell rounds bring the body to 11.5 in (29.2 cm). The scalloped edge adds 1.25 in (3.2 cm), for a total of 12.75 in (32.4 cm). A 20 in (50.8 cm) strap gives a 9 in (22.9 cm) hanging loop. If your checkpoints match, the leaves and strap will fit right where they belong.
Happy crocheting!