The Sage Twin Lattice Bag Holder is a double plastic bag dispenser made of two open mesh tubes side by side. A diamond lattice runs up the body of each tube, so you can see how many bags are left. Solid single crochet bands frame the top and bottom of each tube.
Everything is worked in one soft sage green cotton. Two short solid bridges hold the tubes apart, and a long strap forms a hanging triangle above the rims. A drawstring tie with popcorn “bead” ends gathers the bottom of each tube into a bow. You push bags in at the top and pull them out through the gathered bottom.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 11.6 in (29.5 cm) wide by 13 in (33.0 cm) tall, not counting the strap. The strap rises about 6 in (15.2 cm) above the rims.
Construction is simple. Each tube is worked from the bottom up in joined rounds: a solid band with an eyelet round, then 14 mesh rounds, then a conversion round back to solid stitches. You sew on the bottom bridge, work the top rim on each tube, add the top bridge, strap, and ties, then block.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 11.6 in (29.5 cm) wide x 13 in (33.0 cm) tall, plus a strap peak about 6 in (15.2 cm) above the rims
- Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 7 (2 tubes, 2 bridges, 1 strap, 2 ties)
- Layout: 2 tubes side by side, joined by a bottom bridge and a top bridge
- Piece size (one tube, flattened): 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 13 in (33.0 cm) tall
- Size before border (one tube): 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 12.2 in (31.0 cm) tall
- Border depth: 0.8 in (2.0 cm), worked as the top rim of each tube
Materials
Yarn: Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton. Cotton holds the mesh shape, doesn’t stretch much under the weight of the bags, and washes well. Acrylic also works, but the lattice will sag more.
- Sage green: 150 g, about 255 yd (233.2 m), based on a yarn with 85 yd (77.7 m) per 50 g
This amount includes a margin of roughly 40 g over the measured total. That leaves room for a gauge swatch and for ripping out a round or two.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- 4 stitch markers
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Pins and a blocking surface
- Spray bottle
- Two rolled towels or cardboard tubes, about 3 in (7.6 cm) across, for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- sk – skip
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- pc – popcorn (see below)
Special stitch – Popcorn (pc): Work 4 dc in the indicated st. Drop the loop from your hook and insert the hook from front to back in the top of the first dc of the group. Pick up the dropped loop and draw it through. This makes a small round bead.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 20 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round.
Mesh gauge: 4 mesh rnds = 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, measured with the tube lightly stretched lengthwise.
Make one complete tube first and check it against these numbers before you start the second:
- After Rnd 6 (base band): 5 in (12.7 cm) wide flattened, 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall
- After Rnd 10 (4 mesh rnds): 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
- After Rnd 21 (size before border): 12.2 in (31.0 cm) tall, still 5 in (12.7 cm) wide at the conversion round
- After the border: 13 in (33.0 cm) tall
If your base band is too wide (over 5.25 in / 13.3 cm flattened), go down one hook size. If it is too narrow (under 4.75 in / 12.1 cm), go up one hook size. If the mesh is too short, add one mesh round. If it is too long, remove one. Always change the same number of rounds on both tubes.
Tube (make 2)
Work each tube in joined rounds from the bottom up, with the right side facing you. Do not turn.
Base Band
Foundation: Ch 40 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Take care not to twist the chain.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to first sc. (40 sc)
Rnd 2 (eyelet round): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st; repeat from * 18 more times, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. (20 dc + 20 ch-1 sps = 40 sts)
These 20 spaces are the eyelets for the drawstring tie.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to first sc. (20 + 20 = 40 sc)
Rnds 4–6: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (40 sc)
Checkpoint: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide flattened, 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Diamond Lattice
Rnd 7 (mesh foundation): Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * 8 more times, ch 5, sk last 3 sts, sl st to first sc. (10 sc + 10 ch-5 loops)
Each repeat uses 4 stitches, and 10 repeats x 4 = 40, so the loops sit evenly around the band.
Rnd 8: Sl st in each of next 3 ch to reach the center of the first loop. Ch 1, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop; repeat from * 8 more times, ch 5, sl st to first sc. (10 sc + 10 ch-5 loops)
Each sc lands in the center of a loop from the round below, so each round shifts by half a repeat. This offset creates the diamond openings.
Rnds 9–20: Repeat Rnd 8. (10 sc + 10 ch-5 loops each round)
You now have 14 mesh rounds, about 10.5 in (26.7 cm) tall. Checkpoint after Rnd 10: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) total height.
Conversion Round
Rnd 21: Ch 1, sc in same st as join (the first sc of Rnd 20), 3 sc in next ch-5 loop, *sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch-5 loop; repeat from * 8 more times, sl st to first sc. (10 sc worked 1-per-existing-sc + 30 sc added in loops = 40 sc)
Checkpoint: 12.2 in (31.0 cm) tall, 5 in (12.7 cm) wide flattened. Fasten off and weave in the starting tail. You will rejoin for the border after sewing on the bottom bridge.
Bridges (make 2)
Row 1: Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (4 sc)
Rows 2–8: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (4 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Each bridge measures 1 in (2.5 cm) wide x 1.6 in (4.1 cm) long.
Strap (make 1)
Row 1: Ch 61, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (60 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (60 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap measures 15 in (38.1 cm) long.
Ties (make 2)
First bead: Ch 3, pc in 3rd ch from hook.
Cord: Ch 72.
Second bead: Ch 3, pc in 3rd ch from hook.
Return: Working back toward the first bead, sl st in the back bump of each of the 72 cord chains. (72 sl sts)
Fasten off and weave in both tails. Each tie measures about 18 in (45.7 cm) between beads.
Make All Pieces
Everything is sage green. Approximate weights per piece:
- 2 tubes – about 42 g each
- 2 bridges – about 3 g each
- 1 strap – about 8 g
- 2 ties – about 5 g each
Total used: about 108 g. The 150 g of yarn covers this with margin.
Layout (front view):
strap: triangle peak 6 in (15.2 cm) above rims
[ TUBE A rim ] [ TUBE B rim ]
[ lattice ]=TOP==[ lattice ]
[ lattice ] [ lattice ]
[ lattice ] [ lattice ]
[ base band ]=BOT==[ base band ]
bow bow
Joining
Flatten each tube so the round joins run down the center back. The bridges attach at the side folds. Lay Tube A and Tube B side by side, 1.6 in (4.1 cm) apart, with their inner folds facing each other.
Bottom bridge: Place one bridge flat in the gap, with Row 1 against Tube A and Row 8 against Tube B. Line up its top edge with Rnd 6 of the base band. With the tail and a yarn needle, whipstitch the 4 sts of Row 1 to Tube A’s fold column, one bridge st into each of Rnds 3, 4, 5, and 6. Repeat with Row 8 on Tube B.
This joins 4 bridge stitches to 4 tube rounds. The 4 sc rounds measure about 0.8 in (2.0 cm) and the bridge end measures 1 in (2.5 cm), so spread that small difference evenly as you sew. The edge should lie flat, not ruffle.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug but not tight. Pulling too hard narrows the gap and puckers the tube.
Size checkpoint: The joined base measures 11.6 in (29.5 cm) across (5 + 1.6 + 5 in). You’ll add the top bridge and strap after the border, because they attach near the top edge.
Border (Top Rim)
The border is the solid rim at the top of each tube. You work it on each tube separately, not across both tubes, so no seam stitches go into the count.
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the base band.
Starting count: Each tube has 40 sc from Rnd 21. Flattened, that is 20 sts per side (front and back). The count for one side is 1 tube x 20 sts = 20 sts.
Join yarn at the round join.
Rnd 22 (Border Rnd 1): Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (40 sc; 20 per side)
Rnds 23–25 (Border Rnds 2–4): Repeat Rnd 22. (40 sc; 20 per side)
Fasten off with an invisible join and weave in the end. Repeat on the second tube.
Why the math works: 40 sc at 16 sc per 4 in = 10 in (25.4 cm) around, or 5 in (12.7 cm) flat. The base band also has 40 sts, so the rim and base match exactly and the tube walls stay parallel. The conversion round turns the 10 mesh loops back into 40 sts (10 + 30), so the rim neither flares nor pulls in. Four border rounds at 0.2 in (0.5 cm) each add 0.8 in (2.0 cm), bringing the tube to 13 in (33.0 cm).
Top Bridge
Place the second bridge in the gap at the top, with its top edge level with Rnd 21. Whipstitch its first st to the Rnd 21 sc at the fold. Sew the remaining 3 sts to the sc and loop legs of Rnd 20 directly below. Repeat on the other tube. Check that the gap is still 1.6 in (4.1 cm) at both bridges.
Strap
Lay the strap behind the tubes. Center one end at the back of Tube A’s rim, overlapping the inside of the rim by 0.8 in (2.0 cm) so it covers Rnds 22–25. Whipstitch around the whole overlap. Repeat with the other end on Tube B. The strap forms a triangle with its peak about 6 in (15.2 cm) above the rims.
Ties
Start at the center front of a tube. Weave one tie in and out of the 20 eyelet spaces of Rnd 2, going over each dc and under the next ch-1 sp. Both beaded ends should come out at the center front. Pull to gather the bottom to a 1 in (2.5 cm) opening and tie a bow. Repeat on the other tube.
Final Blocking
- Untie the bows and loosen the ties fully.
- Slide a rolled towel or cardboard tube, about 3 in (7.6 cm) across, into each tube.
- Spray the whole holder until it is damp but not soaking.
- Gently pull the lattice lengthwise until each tube measures 13 in (33.0 cm) tall.
- Even out the diamonds with your fingers so each opening is the same size and the sc knots line up in neat diagonal rows.
- Lay the holder flat, check that the total width is 11.6 in (29.5 cm), and pin the bridges straight.
- Let it dry completely, about 24 hours.
- Remove the forms, rethread the ties if needed, and tie the bows.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each tube is 5 in (12.7 cm) wide flattened and 13 in (33.0 cm) tall.
- Rnd 2 has 20 eyelet spaces on each tube.
- Each mesh round has 10 loops, and the diamonds are even all the way up.
- Rnd 21 and all border rounds have 40 sc.
- Both bridges are 1.6 in (4.1 cm) long and parallel.
- The total width is 11.6 in (29.5 cm).
- The strap is centered and both ends are firmly sewn.
- The bows tie easily and the beads are fully closed.
- All tails are woven in and trimmed.
Troubleshooting
The mesh spirals or leans. You’re probably starting each round in the wrong place. Always sl st across exactly 3 ch to reach the loop center before the first sc.
A mesh round has 9 or 11 loops. Count the loops before joining. Remove any extra, or add the missing ch-5 and sc, before closing the round.
The rim flares. Your conversion round has too many sts. Recount to 40 (10 + 30).
The rim pulls in. Check Rnd 21 for a missed sc on top of an old sc, or go up a hook size for the border only.
The bottom will not gather. The tie may be caught in a dc. Rethread it over each dc and under each ch-1 sp.
The popcorn opens up. Pull the dropped loop through tightly and work 1 ch to lock it before you continue.
The holder tilts when hung. The strap ends aren’t centered. Re-sew them so both sit at the center back of each rim.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll in a towel to remove moisture, and dry flat over the blocking forms. Avoid the dryer, which can shrink the cotton and distort the lattice.
Final Notes
The measurements build in a simple chain that’s easy to check. A 40-st ring gives a tube 5 in (12.7 cm) wide when flattened. The base band reaches 1.5 in (3.8 cm), and 14 mesh rounds add 10.5 in (26.7 cm). The conversion round brings each tube to 12.2 in (31.0 cm), and the 4-round border finishes it at 13 in (33.0 cm). Two tubes plus the 1.6 in (4.1 cm) gap give a total width of 11.6 in (29.5 cm). If each checkpoint matches, the finished holder will too.
Happy crocheting!