This bag holder keeps plastic shopping bags in one place. You push bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time from the small opening at the bottom. The open mesh shows when it’s time to refill, and the rows of raised popcorns give the tube a soft texture that looks good on a kitchen or pantry wall.
The sample is shown in two colorways: warm cream, and a strong royal blue. Each holder is one color. The style is simple and farmhouse-friendly, and it’s quick enough to make one for every room. This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
The finished holder measures about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat and 16.5 in (41.9 cm) tall, not counting the hanging loop. With the loop it’s about 19.5 in (49.5 cm) overall.
It’s worked in one piece from the bottom up. You start with a foundation ring that becomes the dispensing opening and increase in single crochet to full width. Then you work the mesh and popcorn body, finish with a solid single crochet rim band, and crochet the hanging ring straight onto the rim. There is no sewing and there are no seams.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat x 16.5 in (41.9 cm) tall; 19.5 in (49.5 cm) including loop
- Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: One seamless tube worked in joined rounds
- Piece size: 12 in (30.5 cm) around at the widest point
- Size before border (rim band): 15 in (38.1 cm) tall
- Border (rim band) depth: 1.5 in (3.8 cm), plus a hanging loop of about 3 in (7.6 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape, doesn’t stretch much under the weight of the bags, and makes crisp popcorns. Avoid fuzzy or very soft acrylics, because they make the mesh sag.
- Main color (Cream or Royal Blue): 150 g, about 240 m (262 yd)
You need only one color per holder. The quantity includes a safety margin of roughly 15% for your gauge swatch and small tension differences.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Locking stitch marker
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Spray bottle and a rolled towel for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- dc – double crochet
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- pc – popcorn (see below)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
Special stitch – Popcorn (pc): Work 4 dc in the indicated space. Remove your hook from the working loop. Insert the hook from front to back into the top of the first dc of the group, put the dropped loop back on the hook, and pull it through. Don’t add a closing chain. Each popcorn counts as 1 stitch. Because you close it from the front, it puffs toward the outside of the tube.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Single crochet gauge: 16 sc x 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
Mesh gauge: 16 sts (8 dc + 8 ch-1 sps) x 8 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), so each mesh or popcorn round is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Because this is a single piece, the base works as your test piece. Work Rnds 1–9 first and measure before you continue.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 1: The ring of 24 sc lies flat at about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, a circumference of 6 in (15.2 cm).
– After Rnd 9: The tube measures 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat, which is 12 in (30.5 cm) around, and the base is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 35: The piece is 15 in (38.1 cm) tall and still 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
– After Rnd 42: The piece is 16.5 in (41.9 cm) tall, and the rim is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) wide flat.
If your base is too wide (more than 6.25 in / 15.9 cm flat), go down a hook size. If it’s too narrow (less than 5.75 in / 14.6 cm flat), go up a hook size. Mesh rounds that come out taller than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) are usually caused by loose dc; snug the yarn as you finish each dc rather than changing the stitch count.
Pattern
Work in joined rounds with the right side facing you throughout. Don’t turn. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round.
Tapered Base and Dispensing Opening
Rnd 1: Ch 24 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring, taking care not to twist the chain. Ch 1, then sc in each ch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (24 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1. Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * 6 times total. Join. (30 sts)*
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (30 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1. Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * 6 times total. Join. (36 sts)*
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (36 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1. Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * 6 times total. Join. (42 sts)*
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1. Sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * 6 times total. Join. (48 sts)*
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (48 sts)
Increasing every other round makes a gentle cone from the 3 in (7.6 cm) opening to the full 6 in (15.2 cm) width. Check your measurements here before you go on.
Mesh and Popcorn Body
The body uses 2 round types. The 48-stitch count stays the same in every round.
Rnd 10 (first mesh round): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip next st. Dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; repeat from * 23 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (24 dc + 24 ch-1 sps = 48 sts)*
Rnd 11 (Mesh Round): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip next ch-1 sp. Dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp; repeat from * 23 times. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (24 dc + 24 ch-1 sps = 48 sts)*
The dc stack on top of the dc below, which makes the square holes.
Rnd 12 (Popcorn Round): Ch 3 (counts as dc). Pc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; repeat from * 23 times, ending with pc in the last ch-1 sp. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3. (24 dc + 24 pc = 48 sts)*
Push each popcorn to the outside as you go.
Mesh Round worked over a Popcorn Round: Work it exactly like Rnd 11, skipping each pc where you would skip a ch-1 sp. The new dc sit on the dc of the popcorn round, so the mesh columns stay lined up. (48 sts)
Rnds 13–33: Repeat the sequence [Mesh Round, Mesh Round, Popcorn Round] 7 times. Your popcorn rounds are Rnds 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30 and 33, for 8 popcorn bands in total. (48 sts in every round)
Rnds 34–35: Work 2 more Mesh Rounds. (48 sts each)
Checkpoint: The body (Rnds 10–35) is 26 rounds x 0.5 in = 13 in (33.0 cm). Adding the 2 in (5.1 cm) base gives 15 in (38.1 cm).
Border: Rim Band and Hanging Loop
Border gauge: The rim is solid single crochet at the same 16 sc x 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) gauge, so 7 rounds make about 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
Rnd 36 (conversion round): Ch 1. Sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around. Join. (24 sc in dc + 24 sc in ch-1 sps = 48 sts)
This closes the mesh into a solid edge without changing the width.
Rnd 37 (decrease round): Ch 1. Sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * 6 times total. Join. (48 − 6 = 42 sts)*
Rnds 38–42: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (42 sts each)
Don’t fasten off.
Why the math works: 48 sts at 4 sts per in is 12 in (30.5 cm) around, or 6 in (15.2 cm) flat. Decreasing to 42 sts gives 10.5 in (26.7 cm) around, or 5.25 in (13.3 cm) flat. That slight narrowing at the top is what you see in the finished holder, and the firm rim keeps the bags from spilling out.
Hanging loop (worked from the rim):
- With the loop still on your hook at the join of Rnd 42, ch 4. This is the stem.
- Ch 20, then sl st into the 20th ch from the hook (the first ch after the stem) to close a ring of 20 ch.
- Ring: Work 30 sc into the ring, then sl st to the first sc. (30 sc) The ring finishes about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across.
- Stem: Sc into the back bump of each of the 4 stem chains, working back toward the rim. (4 sc)
- Sl st into the next 2 rim sts to anchor the stem firmly.
Fasten off and weave in all ends securely. Weave the loop tails through the stem a second time, because this point carries the weight of the bags. The loop adds about 3 in (7.6 cm) to the overall height.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the whole holder with water until it’s damp but not dripping.
- Stuff it firmly with a rolled towel, or with plastic bags inside a smooth towel, so the tube is fully rounded.
- Shape it to 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat across the body and 16.5 in (41.9 cm) tall.
- Square up the mesh holes with your fingers so the columns run straight up the tube.
- Pinch each popcorn outward so it sits proud of the surface.
- Round out the bottom opening to about 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
- Lay the ring flat and round it out.
- Let it dry completely while stuffed, then remove the towel.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every round has 48 sts from Rnd 8 through Rnd 36, and 42 sts from Rnd 37 through Rnd 42.
- There are 8 popcorn bands, and all popcorns face outward.
- The mesh columns are straight, not spiraling.
- The base tapers evenly from 6 in (15.2 cm) to a 3 in (7.6 cm) opening.
- The rim lies flat without flaring.
- The hanging ring is round, and the stem is securely anchored with no wobble.
- All ends are woven in with no tails showing through the mesh.
Troubleshooting
Popcorns push to the inside: You’re closing them from the back. Insert the hook from front to back into the first dc of the group.
Mesh columns drift diagonally: Your joins are landing in the wrong place. Always join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4, and start the next round on that same column.
The tube flares wider than 6 in (15.2 cm): Your dc are loose. Tighten your tension, or go down a hook size for the body only.
The bottom opening is too tight for bags to pass: Your foundation chain is tight. Redo Rnd 1 with a hook one size larger for the chain only.
The rim ruffles: Check that you have 6 decreases in Rnd 37 and 42 sts afterward.
The loop stretches: Use the smaller hook for the ring and pack the 30 sc tightly.
Care
Hand wash in cool water or machine wash on a gentle cycle in a laundry bag. Reshape while damp and dry flat or stuffed with a towel.
Final Notes
Here is the full measurement chain:
- A 24-st ring makes a 3 in (7.6 cm) opening.
- The base grows to 48 sts, or 6 in (15.2 cm) flat, in 2 in (5.1 cm) of height.
- The 26 mesh and popcorn rounds add 13 in (33.0 cm), for 15 in (38.1 cm) before the rim.
- The 7-round rim band adds 1.5 in (3.8 cm) and narrows to 5.25 in (13.3 cm), for 16.5 in (41.9 cm) total.
- The hanging loop brings the overall length to 19.5 in (49.5 cm).
If you check the base against its checkpoints first, the rest of the holder will come out the right size. Make one in cream and one in a bold blue, and hang them side by side.
Happy crocheting!