Meadow Bloom Letter F Keychain Crochet Pattern

This is a small, sweet monogram charm: a mint-green capital letter F with a cascade of spring flowers down its left side. Two lilac blossoms, one cream blossom, a round lilac bud and a few sage leaves sit along the stem, and a gold key ring finishes it so it can hang from a bag, a set of keys or a zipper pull.

The letter is worked flat in tight single crochet rows, so the surface looks neat and even. One round of single crochet edging and a round of back-loop slip stitches give it a crisp, slightly raised rim. The flowers are worked separately and sewn on.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished charm measures 3.4 in (8.6 cm) wide and 4.4 in (11.2 cm) tall, not counting the hardware.

Here is the order of work: first the letter in rows from the bottom up, adding each arm with a chain extension. Next comes a two-round edging. Then you block the letter, make the appliqués, sew them on and attach the key ring.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 3.4 in (8.6 cm) wide × 4.4 in (11.2 cm) tall
  • Skill level: Easy to Advanced Beginner
  • Terminology: US crochet terms
  • Yarn weight: DK / light (#3), cotton or cotton blend
  • Hook: 3.0 mm (C/2–D/3)
  • Number of pieces: 1 letter, plus 6 small appliqués sewn on
  • Layout: One single-layer letter F, with appliqués stacked down the left edge of the stem
  • Letter size before border: 3.0 in (7.6 cm) wide × 4.0 in (10.2 cm) tall
  • Stem width before border: 1.4 in (3.6 cm)
  • Border depth: about 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every edge

Materials

Choose a smooth, mercerized or matte cotton DK yarn, about 125 m per 50 g. Cotton gives the clean stitch definition you see here and holds its shape well on a keychain that gets handled a lot. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarns, because the letter will lose its sharp outline.

  • Mint green (letter): 10 g / 25 m
  • Lilac (2 flowers, 1 bud): 5 g / 12 m
  • Cream (1 flower): 3 g / 7 m
  • Pale yellow (flower centers): 2 g / 5 m
  • Sage green (leaves): 3 g / 7 m

All quantities include a comfortable margin for swatching and sewing tails.

Tools:

  • 3.0 mm crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers (2–3)
  • Small scissors
  • Gold split key ring, 1 in (2.5 cm), with a short chain of about 1 in (2.5 cm)
  • Gold jump ring, 6–8 mm, and 2 pairs of flat-nose pliers
  • Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
  • Fabric glue (optional, for extra security behind the appliqués)

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
  • BLO – back loop only
  • MR – magic ring
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • RS / WS – right side / wrong side

Special stitch – sc2tog across a corner: Insert the hook in the first position, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert the hook in the second position, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. In the edging, the two positions are on different edges that meet at an inside corner, such as the last chain loop under an arm and the next row end on the stem. Working them together keeps the inner angle sharp and flat.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 5 sc and 6 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) in sc worked flat with a 3.0 mm hook.

Make a swatch before you start. Chain 11, work 10 sc, then work 12 rows. It should measure 2 in (5.1 cm) square. A keychain is small, but a gauge error of half a stitch per inch changes the letter by almost 0.4 in (1.0 cm) across the top arm.

Checkpoints while working:

  • After Row 8: stem is 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide and 1.33 in (3.4 cm) tall
  • After Row 14: width across the middle arm is 2.4 in (6.1 cm), and total height is 2.33 in (5.9 cm)
  • After Row 18: total height is 3 in (7.6 cm)
  • After Row 24: 3 in (7.6 cm) wide across the top arm and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
  • After the border: 3.4 in (8.6 cm) × 4.4 in (11.2 cm)

If your piece is too big: go down to a 2.75 mm hook, or tighten your loops. If it is too small: go up to a 3.25 mm hook. A difference of 0.1 in (0.3 cm) is fine. Anything more is worth fixing, because the flower cascade is sized to fit the stem.

Crocheted bag charm with sage-green base, lavender and cream flowers with pearlescent bead centers and gold chain.

Letter F

Work with mint green. Every row starts with ch 1, which does not count as a stitch. Row 1 is the RS. Odd rows run right to left and even rows run left to right, when viewed from the RS. This puts the end of every even row at the right edge, which is where both arms grow.

Lower Stem

Foundation: Ch 8.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (7 sc)

Rows 2–8: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (7 sc per row)

Row 8 ends at the right edge. Do not fasten off.

Middle Arm

Arm chain: At the end of Row 8, ch 6 and turn.

Row 9 (WS): Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 4 ch (5 sc). Sc in each of the 7 stem sts. Turn. (12 sc)

Rows 10–14: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (12 sc per row)

Row 14 ends at the tip of the middle arm. The arm sticks out 1 in (2.5 cm) from the stem.

Upper Stem

Row 15: Ch 1, sl st in each of the first 5 sts (across the top of the arm), then sc in each of the next 7 sts. Turn. (5 sl st + 7 sc; the 7 sc are the working row)

Work the slip stitches loosely so the top of the arm stays flat. The edging will cover them later.

Rows 16–18: Ch 1, sc in each of the 7 sc only, turn. (7 sc per row)

Row 18 ends at the right edge. Do not fasten off.

Top Arm

Arm chain: At the end of Row 18, ch 9 and turn.

Row 19: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 7 ch (8 sc). Sc in each of the 7 stem sts. Turn. (15 sc)

Rows 20–24: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (15 sc per row)

Fasten off and weave in the ends on the WS. The top arm sticks out 1.6 in (4.1 cm) from the stem.

Checkpoint: the letter should be 3 in (7.6 cm) wide × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. Stitch tally for the body: 8 rows × 7 + 6 rows × 12 + 4 rows × 7 + 6 rows × 15 = 56 + 72 + 28 + 90 = 246 sc.

Border

Border gauge: the same as the body, 5 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm). Along the side edges, work 1 sc into each row end. At 6 rows per inch this packs slightly tighter than 5 stitches per inch, which helps the rim curl up gently and look raised.

Placement rule: work 1 sc in each stitch or row end. At each of the 7 outer corners, work 3 sc into the corner stitch. At each of the 3 inner corners, work sc2tog across the two positions that meet there.

Round 1 (RS, mint green)

With the RS facing, join the yarn in the top-left corner stitch of Row 24 and work clockwise:

  1. Top-left corner: 3 sc in the corner st
  2. Top edge: sc in the next 13 sts (13)
  3. Top-right corner: 3 sc in the last st (3)
  4. Top arm tip: 1 sc in each row end of Rows 24–19 (6)
  5. Top arm, bottom-tip corner: 3 sc in the first free chain loop (3)
  6. Underside of top arm: sc in the next 6 chain loops (6)
  7. Inner corner 1: sc2tog over the last chain loop and the row end of Row 18 (1)
  8. Stem between the arms: sc in the row ends of Rows 17 and 16 (2)
  9. Inner corner 2: sc2tog over the row end of Row 15 and the first sl st on top of the middle arm (1)
  10. Top of middle arm: sc in the next 3 sl sts (3)
  11. Middle arm, top-tip corner: 3 sc in the last sl st (3)
  12. Middle arm tip: 1 sc in each row end of Rows 14–9 (6)
  13. Middle arm, bottom-tip corner: 3 sc in the first free chain loop (3)
  14. Underside of middle arm: sc in the next 3 chain loops (3)
  15. Inner corner 3: sc2tog over the last chain loop and the row end of Row 8 (1)
  16. Lower stem, right side: 1 sc in each row end of Rows 7–1 (7)
  17. Bottom-right corner: 3 sc in the first foundation loop (3)
  18. Bottom edge: sc in the next 5 foundation loops (5)
  19. Bottom-left corner: 3 sc in the last foundation loop (3)
  20. Left side: 1 sc in each row end of Rows 1–24 (24)

Join with a sl st to the first sc. (99 sc)

Why the math works: the outline has 88 base positions. These are 15 + 6 + 8 + 4 + 5 + 6 + 5 + 8 + 7 + 24 = 88, counting the top edge, top arm tip, top arm underside, stem between the arms, top of middle arm, middle tip, middle underside, lower right stem, bottom edge and left side. The 7 outer corners each add 2 stitches (+14). The 3 sc2tog each remove 1 stitch (−3). 88 + 14 − 3 = 99.

Round 2 (RS)

Sl st in the BLO of each sc around. Join to the first sl st. (99 sl st)

Keep these slip stitches the same size as your sc, without pulling tight. This round makes the clean, raised rim and stops the edge from flaring. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Checkpoint: 3.4 in (8.6 cm) × 4.4 in (11.2 cm). The stem measures 1.8 in (4.6 cm) wide and the middle arm 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide.

Appliqués

Leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail on every piece for sewing.

Five-Petal Flower (make 2 in lilac, 1 in cream)

Round 1 (pale yellow): 10 sc in a MR, pull it closed and join with a sl st. (10 sc) Fasten off yellow.

Round 2 (petal color): Join in any st. (hdc, 2 dc, hdc) in the next st, sl st in the next st, repeat from * 4 more times. (5 petals; 20 petal sts + 5 sl st = 25 sts)

Fasten off. Each flower is about 1 in (2.5 cm) across. The tops of the 10 yellow sc make the beaded ring in the center. For a fuller center, add one French knot in yellow in the middle.

Bud (make 1 in lilac)

6 sc in a MR, join with a sl st. (6 sc) Fasten off. Thread the tail through the front loops of all 6 sts and pull it tight to cinch the circle into a little ball about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) across.

Leaf (make 4 in sage green)

Ch 7. Working from the 2nd ch from the hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, then 3 sc in the last ch. Now work along the other side of the chain: hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. (13 sts)

Fasten off. Each leaf is about 1 in (2.5 cm) long, with a pointed tip.

Final Blocking

  1. Block the letter before you sew anything onto it. The appliqués will not block well once they are attached.
  2. Spray the letter evenly until it is damp but not dripping.
  3. Lay it RS up on a gridded blocking mat.
  4. Pin all 7 outer corners first. Use the grid to set the top edge at 3.4 in (8.6 cm) and the full height at 4.4 in (11.2 cm).
  5. Add pins along the left side and both arm tips so every edge sits on a straight grid line.
  6. Push the 3 inner corners into neat right angles with your fingertip. Don’t pin them, because a pin can stretch an inner corner out of shape.
  7. Let it dry completely, at least 6 hours.
  8. Lightly steam the flowers and leaves, then pat the petals flat by hand.

Assembly

  1. Lay out the appliqués along the left side of the stem. From top to bottom: bud at the top-left corner, lilac flower, cream flower, lilac flower near the bottom-left corner. Let each flower overlap the left edge by about 0.2 in (0.5 cm).
  2. Tuck the leaves behind the flowers so their tips peek out to the left: one beside the bud, one between the bud and the first lilac flower, one beside the cream flower, and one at the bottom.
  3. Sew each leaf down along its center line with small running stitches.
  4. Sew each flower down around the edge of its yellow center, then tack each petal tip with one hidden stitch.
  5. Sew the bud on with 3–4 stitches through its base.
  6. Open the jump ring with the pliers. Pass it through 2 stitches of the Round 1 sc at the top-left corner, add the end link of the chain, and close it tightly.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Letter measures 3.4 in (8.6 cm) × 4.4 in (11.2 cm)
  • Round 1 counted at 99 sc and Round 2 at 99 sl st
  • All 7 outer corners are rounded evenly and all 3 inner corners are sharp
  • Arm tips line up straight on the right side
  • The slip stitches on top of the middle arm are hidden under the edging
  • Each flower has 5 even petals
  • Appliqués overlap the left edge evenly, with no gaps between them
  • No ends or sewing stitches show on the RS
  • Jump ring is fully closed and anchored through 2 stitches

Troubleshooting

  • The arms tilt upward: your arm chain was too tight. Rework the chain loosely, or chain with a hook one size larger.
  • Inner corners bulge: you probably worked an sc into each position instead of an sc2tog. Check steps 7, 9 and 15 of Round 1.
  • The rim ripples: the Round 2 slip stitches are too loose. Rework them a little tighter.
  • The rim pulls the letter inward: the Round 2 slip stitches are too tight. Rework them with a looser hand or a slightly larger hook.
  • Petals look cupped: add one more sl st’s worth of slack between petals, or steam and finger-press them flat.
  • The letter flexes too much: sew a piece of matching felt to the WS, trimmed 0.1 in (0.3 cm) inside the rim.

Care

Spot clean with mild soap and cool water, then press it flat and let it air-dry. Avoid soaking, because the metal hardware can tarnish.

Pale green crocheted F-keychain with purple and white flowers hanging from a beige leather handbag beside fresh flowers.

Final Notes

The measurement chain is simple. Gauge of 5 sc × 6 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) gives a letter of 3 in (7.6 cm) × 4 in (10.2 cm) after Row 24. The 99-stitch border adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every edge, for a finished size of 3.4 in (8.6 cm) × 4.4 in (11.2 cm). The 1 in (2.5 cm) flowers then fit neatly down the stem. If you check your swatch, count both border rounds and block before sewing, your F will match these numbers every time.

Happy crocheting!

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