This two-tier hanging organizer pairs two oval crochet baskets with natural wooden dowels and slim crochet cords. Each basket has a solid single crochet base, a short solid band at the bottom of the wall, an open filet-style mesh in the middle and a firm solid rim. It hangs from one wall hook, with toiletries on top and spare rolls below.
The whole piece uses one olive (moss) green cotton, which suits a calm bathroom full of plants. The style is simple and modern: clean square windows, smooth edges and light wood accents. All instructions use US crochet terms.
The finished organizer is about 15 in (38.1 cm) wide at the lower dowel. It is about 22 in (55.9 cm) tall from the hook to the bottom of the lower basket. The small upper basket is 9.75 in (24.8 cm) long, 3.75 in (9.5 cm) deep from front to back and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. The large lower basket is 12.5 in (31.8 cm) long, 4.75 in (12.1 cm) deep and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.
Each basket starts as an oval base worked in joined rounds of single crochet. A back-loop round turns the wall upward. You then work solid rounds, mesh rounds and a solid rim. Two tabs worked from each rim wrap over a dowel. Finally, three crochet cords link the dowels and form the hanging loop.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 15 in (38.1 cm) wide x 22 in (55.9 cm) tall, hanging
- Skill level: Easy to Intermediate
- Terminology: US terms
- Yarn weight: worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 crocheted pieces (2 baskets, 3 cords) plus 2 dowels. The 4 tabs are worked directly onto the baskets.
- Layout: small basket on top, large basket below, stacked on one hook
- Small basket: 9.75 in x 3.75 in (24.8 cm x 9.5 cm) base, 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- Large basket: 12.5 in x 4.75 in (31.8 cm x 12.1 cm) base, 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall
- Wall height before rim: small 3 in (7.6 cm), large 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- Rim (border) depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm), 3 rounds of sc
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm 100% cotton or cotton blend in worsted weight. Cotton holds its shape, handles bathroom humidity and shows the mesh clearly. Avoid soft, drapey acrylics, because the baskets will sag.
- Olive green: 250 g, about 425 m (465 yd) in total
- Small basket with tabs: about 70 g / 120 m
- Large basket with tabs: about 110 g / 187 m
- Three cords: about 25 g / 43 m
- The rest is spare for swatching
Quantities include a margin of about 20% for gauge differences and swatching.
Tools
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 2 wooden dowels, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) diameter: one 12 in (30.5 cm) long, one 15 in (38.1 cm) long
- Tapestry needle
- 8 locking stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Wall hook rated for at least 11 lb (5 kg)
- Optional: fine sandpaper for the dowel ends
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- BLO – back loop only
- rnd(s) – round(s)
Special stitch – mesh unit: dc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts. One mesh unit always uses 3 sts of the round below. It becomes 1 dc plus 1 ch-2 sp.
Joining note: join every round with a sl st to the first st. The ch 1 at the start of sc rounds does not count as a stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc. In mesh, 8 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), so 1 mesh rnd is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Make the small basket first. It works as your gauge test, and it is the quicker of the two.
Checkpoints:
- After base Rnd 4 (small): about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide.
- Finished small base: 9.75 in x 3.75 in (24.8 cm x 9.5 cm), 84 sts, lying flat with no ruffling.
- After the 4 solid wall rnds: the wall is 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
- After the mesh: the wall is 3 in (7.6 cm) on the small basket and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) on the large.
- After the rim: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) small, 4.25 in (10.8 cm) large.
If your base is too big, go down 0.5 mm. If it is too small or stiff, go up 0.5 mm. If only the curved ends ripple, your increases are loose. If the base cups, your tension is tight. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the mesh and tabs depend on them.
Basket Base (Both Sizes)
Instructions are written for the small basket, with the large basket in brackets [ ]. Where only one number is given, it applies to both.
Foundation: ch 24 [30].
Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 21 [27] ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate and work along the other side of the chain: sc in next 21 [27] ch, 2 sc in last ch (the same ch that holds the first sc). Join. (48 [60] sts)
Each curved end holds 3 sts. The starting end is split: 1 st at the start of the round and 2 sts at the end.
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 21 [27], 2 sc in each of next 3, sc in next 21 [27], 2 sc in each of last 2. Join. (54 [66] sts)
Rnds 3–7 [3–9]: for each round, let k = the round number minus 2. Ch 1, (sc in next k, 2 sc in next) once, sc in next 21 [27], (sc in next k, 2 sc in next) 3 times, sc in next 21 [27], (sc in next k, 2 sc in next) twice. Join.
Each of these rounds adds exactly 6 sts, 3 at each curved end. The straight sides stay at 21 [27] sts every round.
- Rnd 3: 60 [72] sts
- Rnd 4: 66 [78] sts
- Rnd 5: 72 [84] sts
- Rnd 6: 78 [90] sts
- Rnd 7: 84 [96] sts (small base complete)
- Rnd 8 (large only): 102 sts
- Rnd 9 (large only): 108 sts (large base complete)
Base check: small 84 sts, 9.75 in x 3.75 in (24.8 cm x 9.5 cm). Large 108 sts, 12.5 in x 4.75 in (31.8 cm x 12.1 cm). Lay the base flat and confirm before moving on.
Basket Walls
Rnd 1 (turning rnd): ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (84 [108] sts)
This round leaves the front loops as a neat ridge and turns the wall upright.
Rnds 2–4: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (84 [108] sts)
Wall check: 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Mesh Rnd 1: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), sk next 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts; repeat from * 26 [34] more times. Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-5. (28 [36] dc and 28 [36] ch-2 sps)
Math check: 84 ÷ 3 = 28 and 108 ÷ 3 = 36, so the mesh closes evenly with no partial unit.
Mesh Rnds 2–4 [2–5]: ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), dc in next dc, ch 2; repeat from * 26 [34] more times. Join in 3rd ch of beginning ch-5. (28 [36] dc and 28 [36] ch-2 sps)
Every dc stacks directly above the dc below, which creates the square windows. Work 4 mesh rnds for the small basket and 5 for the large.
Wall check: 3 in (7.6 cm) small, 3.5 in (8.9 cm) large.
Rim (Border)
Rim gauge: the same as the base, 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). The rim matches the base circumference: 24 in (61.0 cm) on the small basket and 30.9 in (78.5 cm) on the large.
Rim Rnd 1 (conversion rnd): ch 1, sc in next dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp; repeat around. Join.
- Small: 28 sc worked into the dc + 56 sc worked into the spaces = 84 sts
- Large: 36 sc worked into the dc + 72 sc worked into the spaces = 108 sts
Rim Rnds 2–3: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (84 [108] sts)
Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why the math works: each mesh unit replaced exactly 3 sc (1 dc plus 2 skipped). The conversion round puts back exactly 3 sc per unit (1 in the dc plus 2 in the space). The rim therefore has the same count as the base, so the wall rises straight with no flare or pull-in. The rim is 3 rnds deep, or 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
Dowel Tabs
Each basket gets 2 tabs on its back long side.
Placing the tabs: flatten the basket so the curved ends fold evenly. Place a marker at each fold in Rim Rnd 3. Count the sts along the back half between the markers; there should be 42 [54]. Move a marker by 1 st if needed. On that back half, mark sts 5–10 and sts 33–38 [45–50].
Tab (make 2 per basket): with the outside facing, join yarn in the first marked st.
Row 1: ch 1, sc in same st and next 5 sts. Turn. (6 sts)
Rows 2–18: ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Each tab is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long.
Make All Pieces
All pieces use the single olive green color.
- Small basket with 2 tabs: 1 (about 70 g)
- Large basket with 2 tabs: 1 (about 110 g)
- Side cords: 2
- Hanging cord: 1
- Total crocheted pieces: 5
Side cord (make 2): ch 57, sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (56 sts) Length: 16 in (40.6 cm).
Hanging cord (make 1): ch 85, sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (84 sts) Length: 24 in (61.0 cm).
Leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail at both ends of every cord.
Layout (front view):
[ hook ]
/ \
hanging cord hanging cord
/ \
o===[ 12 in dowel ]===o
| ( small basket ) |
side cord side cord
| |
o====[ 15 in dowel ]====o
( large basket )
Joining
Tabs to dowels: slide the 12 in (30.5 cm) dowel behind the small basket’s two tabs. Fold each tab over the dowel toward the inside of the basket. Sew the last row of the tab to the inside of Rim Rnd 1, directly below the tab’s first row, matching 6 sts to 6 sts. Whipstitch through both loops of each st. Repeat with the 15 in (38.1 cm) dowel and the large basket.
Each tab loop leaves the center of the dowel about 1 in (2.5 cm) above the rim. Center the basket so the dowel sticks out equally on both sides.
Side cords: fold the last 3 in (7.6 cm) of one side cord around the small basket’s dowel, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) in from the dowel’s end. Sew the tip flat to the cord. Fold the other end the same way around the large dowel, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) in from its end. Repeat on the other side. The visible span between the dowels is 10 in (25.4 cm).
Hanging cord: wrap each end of the hanging cord around the upper dowel, on top of the side cord loop. Sew it through both cord layers. This makes the cord look continuous from the hook down to the lower dowel. Each side of the hanging cord spans 9 in (22.9 cm).
Tension advice: sew snugly but not tightly. The loops should only slide on the dowel with a firm push. Keep both side cords exactly the same length, or the lower basket will tilt.
Size check: hang the organizer. The upper dowel should sit level, and the lower dowel should hang 10 in (25.4 cm) below it. The total height is about 22 in (55.9 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket with water until damp, not wet.
- Stuff each basket firmly with a towel to shape the oval.
- Square the mesh windows with your fingers so the dc columns run straight up.
- Flatten the base on a table and press the rim level.
- Let the baskets dry completely, about 24 hours.
- Remove the towels and hang the organizer again.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Small base has 84 sts; large base has 108 sts.
- Base sizes are 9.75 in x 3.75 in (24.8 cm x 9.5 cm) and 12.5 in x 4.75 in (31.8 cm x 12.1 cm).
- Mesh has 28 and 36 windows per round, all lined up vertically.
- Rim counts match the base counts.
- Tabs are 6 sts wide, 18 rows long and placed symmetrically.
- Side cords are identical, 16 in (40.6 cm) each.
- Both dowels hang level.
- All ends are woven in for at least 2 in (5.1 cm).
Troubleshooting
Base ripples: you have too many sts for your tension. Go down a hook size or tighten the increases.
Base cups upward: your tension is too tight. Go up a hook size.
Mesh leans in a spiral: you are working the dc into a ch instead of into the dc. Always insert the hook under both loops of the dc below.
Rim flares: you worked 3 sc into a space. Use exactly 2 sc per ch-2 sp.
Basket tilts: the tabs are uneven or the cords are different lengths. Recount the tab positions and compare the cords side by side.
Tabs slide along the dowel: tighten the cord loops on the outside of each tab, or add a small dab of wood glue under each cord loop.
Care
Remove the dowels and hand wash the baskets in cool water with mild soap. Reshape over a towel and dry flat.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. A gauge of 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives bases of 84 and 108 sts, which measure 24 in (61.0 cm) and 30.9 in (78.5 cm) around. Each mesh unit uses 3 sts, so the walls have 28 and 36 windows. The conversion round restores the original count, so the rim matches the base. Tabs of 18 rows hold the dowels. Cords of 56 and 84 sts set the 10 in (25.4 cm) and 9 in (22.9 cm) spans. Check each stage, and the organizer will hang straight and level.
Happy crocheting!