Mauve crocheted wall organizer with two lace pockets and wooden dowels hanging on beige linen wall.

Plum Fan Lace Two-Tier Hanging Basket Crochet Pattern

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This two-tier hanging organizer keeps bathroom items off the counter. Two matching oval baskets hang one above the other, and each one sits on its own short wooden dowel. Each basket has a firm single crochet base, a band of open fan lace and a neat rope-like rim. The top cord forms a triangle and hangs from a single wall hook.

The sample uses one solid plum (deep mauve-purple) cotton, which makes the fan lace easy to see. The top basket holds soap pumps and small bottles. The lower basket fits two standard toilet rolls side by side.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 10¼ in (26.0 cm) long, 4¼ in (10.8 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. Once assembled, the organizer hangs about 22 in (55.9 cm) from the hook to the bottom of the lower basket. The dowels are 12 in (30.5 cm) long.

Construction overview: you work an oval base, turn up the wall and work solid rounds, then four lace rounds. A closing round brings the count back to the base count, and a two-round border finishes the rim. Tabs and single crochet cords join everything together.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Basket size: 10¼ x 4¼ x 4 in (26.0 x 10.8 x 10.2 cm)
  • Overall hanging length: about 22 in (55.9 cm)
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 2 baskets, 4 dowel tabs, 1 hanging cord, 2 connector cords, plus 2 wooden dowels
  • Layout: 1 column x 2 tiers
  • Piece size (one basket): 90 sts around the rim
  • Size before border: 3½ in (8.9 cm) tall after Round 18
  • Border depth: ½ in (1.3 cm), 2 rounds

Materials

Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape when the baskets are loaded and handles bathroom humidity well. Avoid fuzzy or stretchy yarns.

  • Plum (only color): 250 g / 425 m (465 yd)

Tools:

  • 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
  • 2 round wooden dowels, 12 in (30.5 cm) long, ⅝ in (1.6 cm) in diameter
  • 4 locking stitch markers
  • Tapestry needle and scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Rust-proof pins and blocking mat
  • 1 sturdy wall hook

The yarn amount includes a margin of about 15% for differences in tension.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • BLO: back loop only
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • sp(s): space(s)
  • sk: skip
  • rep: repeat
  • inc: 2 sc in the same st

Special stitches:

  • V-st: (dc, ch 3, dc) in the same st.
  • Fan: (dc, ch 1) 6 times in the same sp, then 1 more dc in that sp. This gives 7 dc and 6 ch-1 sps.
  • Reverse sc (crab stitch): Work sc from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next st to the right, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 14 sc x 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm), which works out to 3.5 sts per inch.

Finish one whole basket before starting the second. The base works as your gauge swatch.

  • After Round 4: about 8 in (20.3 cm) long x 2 in (5.1 cm) wide.
  • After Round 8: 10¼ in (26.0 cm) x 4¼ in (10.8 cm).
  • After Round 13: the wall is 1¼ in (3.2 cm) tall.
  • After Round 15: the wall is about 2½ in (6.4 cm) tall.
  • After Round 18: the wall is 3½ in (8.9 cm) tall.
  • After the border: the wall is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.

If your base is too big, go down one hook size. If it is too small, go up one size. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the lace repeat needs exactly 90 sts.

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Basket (Make 2)

Base

Ch 24.

Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook (end A), sc in next 21 ch, 3 sc in last ch (end B). Rotate the work. Sc in next 21 ch along the bottom loops. Sl st to the first sc. (48 sts: 3 + 21 + 3 + 21)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 21 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 21 sts. Sl st to the first sc. (54 sts: 6 + 21 + 6 + 21)

Round 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, inc) 3 times, sc in next 21 sts, (sc in next st, inc) 3 times, sc in next 21 sts. Sl st to the first sc. (60 sts: 9 + 21 + 9 + 21)

Round 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 21 sts, rep the part in brackets 3 times, sc in next 21 sts. Sl st. (66 sts: 12 + 21 + 12 + 21)

Round 5: Same as Round 4, but work (sc in next 3 sts, inc) at each end. (72 sts: 15 + 21 + 15 + 21)

Round 6: Work (sc in next 4 sts, inc) at each end. (78 sts: 18 + 21 + 18 + 21)

Round 7: Work (sc in next 5 sts, inc) at each end. (84 sts: 21 + 21 + 21 + 21)

Round 8: Work (sc in next 6 sts, inc) at each end. (90 sts: 24 + 21 + 24 + 21)

Place markers at the first and last st of each 21-st long side. These four sections (24, 21, 24, 21) stay the same all the way up to the rim.

Solid Wall

Round 9 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Sl st. (90 sts) The unworked front loops make a crisp ridge where the base turns into the wall.

Rounds 10–13: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st. (90 sts each round)

Fan Lace Band

Round 14 (V round): Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 3, sk next 4 sts, V-st in next st, ch 3, sk next 4 sts; rep from * 8 more times. Sl st to the first sc. (9 sc, 9 V-sts, 18 ch-3 sps)* Each repeat uses 1 + 4 + 1 + 4 = 10 sts, and 9 x 10 = 90.

Round 15 (fan round): Ch 1, sc in same sc, ch 2, sk ch-3 sp, Fan in ch-3 sp of next V-st, ch 2, sk ch-3 sp, sc in next sc; rep from * 8 more times, ending the last repeat at . Sl st to the first sc. (9 fans: 63 dc, 54 ch-1 sps, 9 sc)* The fans open upward from one point.

Round 16 (fan top): Sl st in next 2 ch, next dc and next ch-1 sp. Ch 1, sc in same sp, (ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 3, sk to the first ch-1 sp of the next fan, sc in that sp; rep from * 8 more times, ending at . Sl st to the first sc. (54 sc; 45 ch-2 loops + 9 ch-3 loops = 54 loops)*

Round 17 (mesh): Sl st in first loop, ch 1, sc in same loop, ch 3, sc in next loop; rep from * around, ending ch 3. Sl st to the first sc. (54 sc, 54 ch-3 loops)*

Round 18 (closing round): Sl st in first ch-3 loop. Ch 1, 2 sc in same loop, 2 sc in next loop, sc in next loop, 2 sc in each of next 2 loops, sc in next loop; rep from * 16 more times. Sl st to the first sc. (90 sts)*

This round puts 5 sc over every 3 loops, and 18 x 5 = 90. Because it matches the base count, the wall stays straight. Line the stitches up with your markers: 24, 21, 24, 21.

Dowel Tabs (Make 4)

Ch 6.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sts)

Rows 2–14: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts)

Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Each tab is about 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide x 3½ in (8.9 cm) long.

Cords

Hanging cord (make 1): Ch 99. Sc in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (98 sts) The cord should measure 28 in (71.1 cm).

Connector cords (make 2): Ch 50. Sc in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (49 sts) Each cord should measure 14 in (35.6 cm).

Leave 12 in (30.5 cm) tails. Working into the back bumps makes a firm, rounded cord that doesn’t stretch much.

Make All Pieces

  • Plum: 2 baskets (with the Rim Border below already worked), 4 tabs, 1 hanging cord, 2 connector cords
  • Wood: 2 dowels, 12 in (30.5 cm) each
            [ wall hook ]
              /       \
        hanging cord (28 in)
            /           \
   [=====  dowel 1  =====]
   |    BASKET 1 (top)   |
 conn.                 conn.
 cord 14 in        cord 14 in
   |                     |
   [=====  dowel 2  =====]
   |  BASKET 2 (bottom)  |

Joining

Tabs: On each 24-st end, find the center 5 sts. These are sts 10–14, which leaves 9 sts on one side and 10 on the other. Fold a tab around the dowel so that one leg lies inside the wall and the other lies outside. Each leg should overlap the rim by ¾ in (1.9 cm).

Whipstitch stitch-to-stitch. Sew the 5 foundation sts of the tab to the 5 rim sts on the outside, then sew the 5 last-row sts to the same rim sts on the inside. Sew down the side edges. The 2 in (5.1 cm) loop fits snugly around the ⅝ in (1.6 cm) dowel. Repeat on all four ends. About ⅞ in (2.2 cm) of dowel should stick out past each basket end.

Connector cords: Wrap one cord end around dowel 1, ½ in (1.3 cm) from the tip. Fold back 1 in (2.5 cm) and sew it down. Each wrap uses 3 in (7.6 cm) of cord. Attach the other end to dowel 2 the same way, then repeat on the other side. This leaves 8 in (20.3 cm) of cord between the dowels and about 3¾ in (9.5 cm) of clearance below the top basket.

Hanging cord: Attach both ends to dowel 1, just outside the connector cords, using the same 3 in (7.6 cm) wrap.

Tension: Sew firmly enough to hold, but stop before the rim puckers.

Size checkpoint: Hang the organizer. Both dowels should be level, and the total drop should be about 22 in (55.9 cm).

Rim Border

Border gauge: 3.5 sc per inch. Each 21-st long side measures 6 in (15.2 cm). Each 24-st end curves about 6.9 in (17.5 cm). The full rim is about 25.7 in (65.3 cm) around.

Round 19: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st. (90 sts: 21 per long side, 24 per end)

Round 20: Ch 1, reverse sc in each st around. Sl st. Fasten off. (90 sts: 21 + 24 + 21 + 24)

Why the math works: Round 8 has 90 sts, the solid wall rounds have 90, and Round 18 brings the lace back to 90. The border doesn’t add or remove any stitches, so each side keeps its base count and the rim sits straight above the base. The reverse sc makes a firm, twisted edge that won’t stretch.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all ends.
  2. Wet each basket in cool water and press out the water with a towel. Don’t wring it.
  3. Stuff each basket with a folded towel shaped into a 10¼ x 4¼ in (26.0 x 10.8 cm) oval.
  4. Pull the wall up to 4 in (10.2 cm). Pin the fans open so the dc ribs spread evenly.
  5. Pin the cords straight at 28 in (71.1 cm) and 14 in (35.6 cm).
  6. Let everything dry completely before you assemble the organizer.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Round 8 has 90 sts and measures 10¼ x 4¼ in (26.0 x 10.8 cm).
  • The turning ridge runs evenly all the way around.
  • There are 9 fans per basket, each with 7 dc.
  • Round 18 and both border rounds have 90 sts.
  • The baskets are 4 in (10.2 cm) tall and sit flat.
  • The tabs are centered and the dowels hang level.
  • The connector cords are the same length.
  • All ends are secure.

Troubleshooting

Base cups: Your tension is too tight. Recount the end sections and use a larger hook.

Base ruffles: Check that each end has exactly 24 sts in Round 8.

Fans lean: Each repeat in Round 14 must use exactly 10 sts.

Wall flares at the top: Round 18 has more than 90 sts. Recount the groups of 5.

Baskets hang crooked: Re-sew the cord wraps so both connector cords have 8 in (20.3 cm) free between the dowels.

Care

Take out the dowels and hand wash the pieces in cool water with mild soap. Reshape them and lay flat to dry.

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Final Notes

Each measurement leads to the next. If your gauge is 14 sc to 4 in (10.2 cm), the base will measure 10¼ x 4¼ in (26.0 x 10.8 cm). If you keep 90 sts in the wall, it rises straight, and Round 18 brings the lace back to 90 so the border fits. Centered tabs and equal cords make the baskets hang level, 22 in (55.9 cm) from the hook.

Happy crocheting!

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