These airy tab-top curtains are made of round lace medallions. Each one has a ridged fern-like leaf in the center, and all the leaves point upward toward the rod. Peach and cream motifs alternate in a checkerboard, and small rosettes sit at every point where four motifs meet. Daylight passes through the mesh and leaves soft, leaf-patterned shadows on the floor.
The palette is warm and gentle: soft peach and creamy ivory in mercerized cotton. The look is cottage-romantic with a hint of vintage Irish lace, but the construction is simple. Each motif is worked in the round and joined to its neighbors as you go.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished panel measures 22.5 in (57.2 cm) wide by 45.75 in (116.2 cm) long to the top of the band. The tabs add 3 in (7.6 cm), for a total of 48.75 in (123.8 cm). You will make two panels.
Construction overview: each leaf is worked around a foundation chain. A frame of chain loops and graded stitches then rounds the oval leaf into a circle, and mesh and scallop rounds finish the motif. The last round joins each motif to its neighbors. Rosettes fill the gaps, and a top band with tabs finishes each panel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished panel size: 22.5 in × 45.75 in (57.2 cm × 116.2 cm), plus 3 in (7.6 cm) tab loops
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Sport (2), mercerized cotton
- Hook: 3.25 mm (US D/3)
- Number of pieces: 36 leaf motifs and 20 rosettes (18 motifs and 10 rosettes per panel)
- Layout per panel: 3 motifs wide × 6 motifs tall
- Motif size: 7.5 in (19.1 cm) in diameter, measured across the picots
- Size before border: 22.5 in × 45 in (57.2 cm × 114.3 cm)
- Border depth: a 0.75 in (1.9 cm) top band; the sides and bottom keep the motif scallops
Materials
Choose a smooth mercerized cotton in sport weight, about 155 m per 50 g. Cotton gives crisp stitch definition, keeps the leaf ridges sharp, and holds its shape when hung.
- Peach: 250 g / 775 m (18 motifs, 10 rosettes)
- Cream: 300 g / 930 m (18 motifs, 10 rosettes, 2 top bands, 14 tabs)
Quantities include a margin of about 20% for gauge swatches and differences in tension.
Tools:
– 3.25 mm (US D/3) hook
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers
– Rustproof pins and a blocking surface
– Spray bottle
– Measuring tape
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet (yo twice)
- dtr – double treble crochet (yo 3 times)
- trtr – triple treble crochet (yo 4 times)
- BLO – back loop only
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Picot: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook.
Joining picot: ch 1, sl st in the matching picot of the neighboring motif, ch 1, sl st in the top of the last sc made.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete motif before you start the curtain. Block it and measure it.
- Leaf (after Rnd 3): 3.75 in (9.5 cm) long, point to point, and 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide
- After Rnd 6: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) diameter
- After Rnd 7: 6.25 in (15.9 cm) diameter
- After Rnd 8: 7 in (17.8 cm) diameter
- After Rnd 9: 7.5 in (19.1 cm) diameter, measured across the picots
Band gauge: 28 sc = 5 in (12.7 cm).
If your motif is larger than 7.5 in (19.1 cm), change to a 3.0 mm hook. If it is smaller, change to a 3.5 mm hook. A difference of 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per motif adds up to 0.75 in (1.9 cm) across the width and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) down the length, so correct your gauge now.
Leaf Motif (make 36: 18 peach, 18 cream)
The Leaf
Ch 16. The slip-knot end becomes the leaf tip.
Rnd 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in the next 2 ch, dc in the next 9 ch, hdc in the next 2 ch, sc in the last ch. Ch 3 for the tip point. Working along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in the first ch, hdc in the next 2 ch, dc in the next 9 ch, hdc in the next 2 ch, sc in the last ch. Ch 3 for the base point. Join with a sl st to the first sc.
(30 sts, 15 per side, + 2 ch-3 points)
Rnd 2: Ch 1. Working in BLO: sc in each of the 15 sts of side A, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the tip ch-3 sp, sc in each of the 15 sts of side B, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the base ch-3 sp. Join.
(34 sc + 2 ch-2 sps; 17 sc per side, counting 1 sc on each side of each point)
The unworked front loops form a ridge along each side, which creates the vein texture.
Rnd 3 (serrated edge): Sl st in the base ch-2 sp. Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in the same sp. Along side A: sc in the next 4 sts, [picot, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times, picot, sc in the next 4 sts. Work (sc, ch 3, sc) in the tip ch-2 sp. Repeat the side A instructions along side B. Join.
(38 sc: 4 at the points and 17 per side; 8 picots; 2 ch-3 points)
Midrib: Using the yarn tail or a new strand, work surface sl sts along the foundation chain from the base to the tip. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
The Frame
Rnd 4: Sl st in the base ch-3 sp. Ch 1, sc in the same sp. [Ch 6, sc in the next picot] 4 times, ch 6, sc in the tip ch-3 sp. [Ch 6, sc in the next picot] 4 times, ch 6. Join.
(10 sc + 10 ch-6 loops)
Rnd 5 (rounding round): Each loop gets exactly 8 sts. The shortest sts go near the points and the tallest at the widest part of the leaf, which pulls the oval into a circle. Work in the loops only and skip the sc of Rnd 4.
– Point-out (P-out): 2 sc, 3 hdc, 3 dc
– Shoulder-out (S-out): 3 dc, 5 tr
– Middle (M): tr, 6 dtr, tr
– Shoulder-in (S-in): 5 tr, 3 dc
– Point-in (P-in): 3 dc, 3 hdc, 2 sc
Sl st into the first loop. Ch 1, then work [P-out, S-out, M, S-in, P-in] twice. Join to the first sc.
(80 sts: 10 loops × 8)
Rnd 6 (solid ring): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st around. Join.
(80 dc) Checkpoint: 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
Mesh and Edge
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in the first st, ch 5, skip 3 sts, sc in the next st; repeat from * around, ending with ch 5, skip the last 3 sts, and join to the first sc.
(20 sc + 20 ch-5 loops; 80 ÷ 4 = 20)
Rnd 8: Sl st in each of the next 3 ch. Ch 1, sc in the same loop, ch 6, sc in the next loop; repeat around, ending with ch 6 and a join.
(20 sc + 20 ch-6 loops)
Rnd 9 (scallop edge): Hold the motif with the leaf tip pointing up. The two loops on either side of the top center are loop 20 (left) and loop 1 (right). Number the rest clockwise. In each loop, work 4 sc, picot, 4 sc. Join and fasten off.
(160 sc + 20 picots)
Picot positions, numbered clockwise from the top:
- Top pair: picots 20 and 1
- Right pair: 5 and 6
- Bottom pair: 10 and 11
- Left pair: 15 and 16
- Diagonals: 3 (upper right), 8 (lower right), 13 (lower left), 18 (upper left)
Work Rnd 9 as written on the first motif only. On every other motif, work Rnd 9 as you join it (see Joining).
Make All Pieces
Per panel:
– 9 peach motifs
– 9 cream motifs
– 5 peach rosettes
– 5 cream rosettes
For both panels:
– 18 peach motifs
– 18 cream motifs
– 20 rosettes
Make Rnds 1–8 of every motif first. Both panels use the same layout (P = peach, C = cream, + = rosette):
Row 1: P C P
+ +
Row 2: C P C
+ +
Row 3: P C P
+ +
Row 4: C P C
+ +
Row 5: P C P
+ +
Row 6: C P C
That gives 2 rosettes per gap row × 5 gap rows = 10 rosettes per panel.
Joining
Use join-as-you-go on Rnd 9. Each side contact uses exactly 2 picots, joined one to one. No extra stitches are added at the seams, so every motif keeps 160 sc and 20 picots.
- Joining to the motif on the left: replace picots 15 and 16 of the new motif with joining picots. Picot 15 joins the neighbor’s picot 6, and picot 16 joins the neighbor’s picot 5.
- Joining to the motif above: picot 20 joins the upper motif’s picot 11, and picot 1 joins its picot 10.
Work across each row from left to right, then start the next row below. A motif with neighbors both above and to its left makes 4 joining picots.
Keep the joining sl sts at the same tension as a regular picot. If you pull them tight, the motifs pucker. If you leave them loose, the panel sags.
Rosettes: these fill the 4-way gaps.
Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in the ring. Join.
(12 dc; 1.25 in / 3.2 cm across)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in the next 3 sts, ch 5, sl st in the diagonal picot of the next motif, ch 5; repeat 4 times. Join and fasten off.
(12 sc + 4 spokes)
Join the spokes in this order: picot 8 of the upper-left motif, picot 13 of the upper-right, picot 18 of the lower-right, and picot 3 of the lower-left.
Checkpoint: a joined row of 3 motifs measures 22.5 in (57.2 cm). All 6 rows measure 45 in (114.3 cm).
Border: Top Band and Tabs
The sides and bottom keep their natural scallops, so the border is worked across the top edge only.
Band gauge: 28 sc = 5 in (12.7 cm), or 5.6 sc per inch.
Row 1 (leveling row): With cream and the right side facing, join at picot 17 of the top-left motif. Ch 5 (counts as dtr).
Across each top-row motif, work into its 8 upper picots (17, 18, 19, 20, 1, 2, 3, 4), with ch 5 between them: dtr, tr, hdc, sc, sc, hdc, tr, dtr. The first dtr of the first motif is the starting ch-5.
At each junction between motifs: ch 5, trtr through both joined picots (5 and 16), ch 5.
(Stitches: 3 motifs × 8 picots + 2 junction trtr = 26 sts. Ch-5 spaces: 3 × 7 within motifs + 2 × 2 at junctions = 25 sps.)
The graded heights fill the dips between the arcs and level the edge.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st and 4 sc in each ch-5 sp.
(26 + 25 × 4 = 126 sc)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. Dc in each st across.
(126 dc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across.
(126 sc) Do not fasten off.
Why the math works: 126 sc ÷ 5.6 sc per inch = 22.5 in (57.2 cm), which matches the width of the motifs. The 126 sts also divide exactly into 7 tabs × 6 sts + 6 gaps × 14 sts (42 + 84 = 126).
Tabs: Turn.
Row 1: Sc in the first 6 sts.
Rows 2–38: Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO across.
(6 sc per row)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Skip 14 sts, rejoin, and repeat. You will make 7 tabs.
Each tab is about 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide and 6 in (15.2 cm) long. Fold each tab to the back and whipstitch its end to the back of Row 3 to form a 3 in (7.6 cm) loop. The loops fit rods up to 1.5 in (3.8 cm) in diameter.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the dc rings or the leaf ridges.
- Soak the panel in cool water for 10 minutes and press the water out gently. Do not wring it.
- Lay the panel flat and pin the top band straight at 22.5 in (57.2 cm).
- Pin each motif into a circle 7.5 in (19.1 cm) across. Place one pin in every edge picot.
- Check that the motif rows are spaced 7.5 in (19.1 cm) apart along the length.
- Pin the leaf tips and points so that each leaf points straight up.
- Let the panel dry completely before you remove the pins, then hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every motif has 80 dc in Rnd 6 and 20 picots in Rnd 9.
- All leaves point up toward the top band.
- The peach and cream motifs form a correct checkerboard.
- Each side contact is joined at exactly 2 picots.
- All 10 rosettes per panel are joined to 4 diagonal picots.
- Row 2 of the top band has 126 sc, and there are 7 tabs evenly spaced.
- The panel measures 22.5 in × 45.75 in (57.2 cm × 116.2 cm).
- The tabs are firmly sewn, and all ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
The leaf twists or curls. Rnd 1 is too tight. Chain more loosely, or use a hook one size larger for the foundation chain only.
The motif cups after Rnd 5. The dtrs are too short. Pull up each loop fully, or work the M loops with 2 tr and 6 dtr in total, still 8 sts per loop.
The motif ruffles after Rnd 7. Change the loops to ch 4 and check the size again.
The rosette spokes pull the motifs inward. Change the spokes to ch 6 instead of ch 5.
The top band is wavy. Work the Row 1 chains with ch 4 instead of ch 5, or block the band firmly.
The panel is too long. Remove one motif row: 7.5 in (19.1 cm) less, and 5 fewer motifs and 2 fewer rosettes per panel. Fewer motifs also means less yarn.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent, then reshape and dry flat. Avoid strong, direct sun on dyed cotton if you want the peach to keep its color for many seasons.
Final Notes
Everything depends on one measurement chain:
- A 3.75 in (9.5 cm) leaf becomes a 5.5 in (14.0 cm) ring and then a 7.5 in (19.1 cm) motif.
- Three motifs make a 22.5 in (57.2 cm) width, held by a 126-stitch band.
- Six rows make 45 in (114.3 cm), plus a 0.75 in (1.9 cm) band and 3 in (7.6 cm) tabs.
Check your measurements at each stage and your curtains will hang straight and even.
Happy crocheting!