Pearl Meadow Strand Curtain Crochet Pattern

The Pearl Meadow Strand Curtain is a light, airy hanging made from many separate vertical strands. Each strand alternates pointed, ridged leaves with five-petal flowers. Short chains link the motifs, and each chain holds one shiny pearl. A soft tassel finishes the bottom, and a flat crocheted tab loops over the curtain rod at the top.

The whole curtain uses one ivory cotton, so the texture carries the design. The leaves have a raised center vein and ridges, the flower petals are outlined, and the pearls shine against the matte yarn. The style is romantic and boho, and the curtain works in a doorway, in a window, or as a room divider.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. One strand measures 81.5 in (207.0 cm) from the top of the rod to the tip of the tassel. The full curtain uses 24 strands spaced 2 in (5.1 cm) apart, covering 48 in (121.9 cm) of rod.

First you crochet the leaves and flowers separately. Then you connect them into strands with beaded chain links and add a hanging tab and a tassel to each strand. The strands are not joined to each other; they hang side by side.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished strand length: 81.5 in (207.0 cm), including tab drop and tassel
• Curtain width: 48 in (121.9 cm) with 24 strands at a 2 in (5.1 cm) pitch
• Skill level: Intermediate
• Terminology: US
• Yarn weight: Sport (2), mercerized cotton
• Hook: 3.25 mm (US D/3)
• Number of pieces: 24 strands; each strand has 8 leaves, 8 flowers, 17 beaded links, 1 tab and 1 tassel
• Layout: 24 hanging strands in one row, alternating Strand A and Strand B
• Piece sizes: leaf 4 in x 2 in (10.2 x 5.1 cm); flower 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across
• Size before border: linked motif section 75.5 in (191.8 cm)
• Border depth: tab drop 2 in (5.1 cm) at the top, tassel 4 in (10.2 cm) at the bottom

Materials

Choose a smooth, mercerized cotton in sport weight. It shows the stitches clearly, keeps the leaf points crisp and stretches very little when the strands hang. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarns, because the strands would get longer over time.

• Ivory sport-weight cotton: 900 g / 2790 m (18 balls of 50 g / 155 m)
• 10 mm ivory glass pearls, 2 mm hole: 420 (408 needed)
• 8 mm ivory glass pearls (flower centers): 200 (192 needed)
• 3.25 mm (US D/3) crochet hook
• Fine beading needle that fits through a 2 mm hole
• Tapestry needle
• Ivory sewing thread and sharp needle
• Scissors, tape measure, rust-proof pins
• Stiff card 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall for tassels
• Curtain rod up to 1.25 in (3.2 cm) in diameter

The yarn and pearl quantities include about 15% extra for gauge differences, tails and swatching.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• BLO – back loop only
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sp – space
• sk – skip
• Rnd – round

Picot: ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.

Joining hdc: at the end of a round, ch 1, then hdc in the first st. Together, the ch 1 and the hdc act as a ch-2 sp, and they leave your hook in the right place for the next round.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 22 sc and 24 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc rows. That is 5.5 sts and 6 rows per inch.

Before making anything else, make one leaf and one flower. Pin them flat and measure them.

• Leaf after Rnd 1: 3.5 in x 1 in (8.9 x 2.5 cm)
• Leaf after Rnd 3: 4 in x 2 in (10.2 x 5.1 cm)
• Flower after Rnd 2: 1 in (2.5 cm) across
• Flower after Rnd 4: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across
• One beaded link: 1.5 in (3.8 cm)

If your motifs are too big, go down 0.25 mm in hook size. If they are too small, go up 0.25 mm. Each strand has 16 motifs, so small errors add up quickly. If every leaf is just 0.25 in (0.6 cm) too long, each strand gets 2 in (5.1 cm) longer.

Leaf (make 192)

The leaf is worked in rounds around both sides of a foundation chain. Taller stitches in the middle and shorter ones at the ends make the pointed oval shape. Working in the back loop creates the raised ridges and the center vein.

Ch 19.

Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 12 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, (sc, ch 2, sc) in last ch for the tip. Rotate and work along the bottom loops of the chain: hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 12 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in last ch. Join with joining hdc to first sc; this makes the stem sp. 36 sts, 2 ch-2 sps (18 sts per side).

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc around joining hdc, sc BLO in next 18 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in tip ch-2 sp, sc BLO in next 18 sts, sc in stem sp. Join with joining hdc to first sc. 40 sc, 2 ch-2 sps (36 sts worked 1 per st + 4 point sts; 20 sc per side).

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc around joining hdc, [sc in next 2 sts, picot] 10 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in tip ch-2 sp, [sc in next 2 sts, picot] 10 times, sc in stem sp, ch 2, sl st to first sc. Fasten off. 44 sc, 20 picots, 2 ch-2 sps (40 sts worked 1 per st + 4 point sts).

Weave in the ends. The front loops left unworked in Rnd 2 form a clear ridge around the center vein.

Flower (make 192)

Rnd 1: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, 10 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. 10 sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 3, sk next st, [sc in next st, ch 3, sk next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc. 5 sc, 5 ch-3 sps.

Rnd 3: Sl st into first ch-3 sp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-3 sp around, sl st to first sc. 35 sts, 5 petals of 7 sts.

Rnd 4: Ch 1. Working in BLO, sc in sc, sc in hdc, sc in next dc, 2 sc in center dc, sc in next dc, sc in hdc, sc in sc; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to first sc. Fasten off. 40 sc* (35 sts worked 1 per st + 5 extra at petal tips; 8 sc per petal).

Sew one 8 mm pearl to the center ring with sewing thread, passing the thread through it twice. Weave in the ends.

Number the petals 1 to 5 in the order you worked them. The top joining point is the gap between the 2 center sc of petal 1. The bottom joining point is directly opposite: the valley between the last sc of petal 3 and the first sc of petal 4.

Beaded Link (make 408)

Each link connects one piece to the next.

1. Thread one 10 mm pearl onto the yarn end and slide it about 12 in (30.5 cm) along the yarn.
2. With a slip knot on the hook, sl st into the bottom joining point of the upper piece.
3. Ch 3, slide the pearl up to the hook, then ch 3 more. The first of these chains locks the pearl in place.
4. Sl st into the top joining point of the lower piece.
5. Fasten off, leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail, and weave both tails into the motifs.

On a leaf, the joining points are the ch-2 sps: the tip sp at the top and the stem sp at the bottom.

Make All Pieces

Every piece is made in Ivory.

Piece	Per strand	For 24 strands
Leaves	8	192
Flowers	8	192
Beaded links	17	408
Tabs	1	24
Tassels	1	24

Make 12 of Strand A and 12 of Strand B. Strand A starts with a leaf and Strand B starts with a flower. This offsets the motifs, so leaves and flowers sit side by side across the curtain.

Strand A          Strand B
Tab               Tab
Link              Link
Leaf              Flower
Link              Link
Flower            Leaf
Link              Link
... (8 of each,   ... (8 of each,
alternating)      alternating)
Flower            Leaf
Link              Link
Tassel            Tassel

Rod order: A B A B A B A B A B A B A B A B A B A B A B A B

Joining

Lay out the pieces for one strand in order on a table, right sides up. Work 1 link from the tab to the first motif, 15 links between the 16 motifs, and 1 link from the last motif to the tassel. That makes 17 links per strand.

Each link joins one point to one point: one sl st into the upper piece and one sl st into the lower piece. You add no stitches to the motifs, so their stitch counts don’t change.

Keep the chains firm but not tight. If a link is too loose, the pearl slides and the motif twists. If it is too tight, the motif point puckers. Check that every link measures 1.5 in (3.8 cm).

Strand checkpoint: one repeat of leaf + link + flower + link measures 9.25 in (23.5 cm). The 16 motifs measure 50 in (127.0 cm) and the 17 links measure 25.5 in (64.8 cm). Together they make a linked section of 75.5 in (191.8 cm).

Border: Hanging Tabs and Tassel Fringe

This curtain has no stitched border around its edges. The tabs finish the top edge and the tassels finish the bottom. Work both at the same gauge as the motifs: 5.5 sts and 6 rows per inch.

Tab (make 24): Ch 6.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. 5 sc.

Rows 2–24: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. 5 sc per row.

The tab measures 0.9 in x 4 in (2.3 x 10.2 cm). Fold it in half so Row 24 lines up with the foundation chain. Sl st across through both layers (5 sl sts) to close the loop, then fasten off. The center sl st (the 3rd of 5) is the tab’s bottom joining point.

Tassel (make 24):

1. Wrap yarn 30 times around the 4.5 in (11.4 cm) card.
2. Slide a 10 in (25.4 cm) tie under the wraps at the top and knot it tightly.
3. Cut the loops at the bottom.
4. Cut 18 in (45.7 cm) of yarn and wrap it around the neck 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the top. Hide the ends inside the tassel.
5. Trim to 4 in (10.2 cm) total length. The tassel has 60 ends.

For the last link of each strand, work the second ch 3, then sl st through the tassel tie loop instead of into a motif.

Why the math works: 24 rows at 6 rows per inch makes the tab 4 in (10.2 cm) long, and folding it gives a 2 in (5.1 cm) drop. The loop is 4 in (10.2 cm) around, so it slides easily over a rod up to 1.25 in (3.2 cm) in diameter. Each 5-st tab is 0.9 in (2.3 cm) wide, so a 2 in (5.1 cm) pitch leaves a 1.1 in (2.8 cm) gap between tabs and they never crowd. Total strand length: 2 in tab + 75.5 in linked section + 4 in tassel = 81.5 in (207.0 cm). Width: 24 strands x 2 in = 48 in (121.9 cm).

Final Blocking

1. Block the motifs before you link them. Wet blocking gives cotton the crispest points.
2. Soak the leaves and flowers in cool water for 10 minutes. Press out the water in a towel; do not wring.
3. Pin each leaf to 4 in x 2 in (10.2 x 5.1 cm), with one pin in the tip and one in the stem point.
4. Pin each flower to 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across, with one pin in each petal tip. Keep the pearls dry where you can.
5. Let everything dry completely, about 24 hours.
6. After linking, hang each strand and let it rest for a day. Then measure it: it should be 81.5 in (207.0 cm).
7. Steam the tassels lightly, holding the iron well away, and comb them straight. Never steam directly on the pearls.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• Each leaf: 44 sc, 20 picots, 2 ch-2 sps; 4 in x 2 in (10.2 x 5.1 cm)
• Each flower: 40 sc, 5 even petals, center pearl secure; 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
• Each link: 1.5 in (3.8 cm), pearl locked between chains
• Each strand: 8 leaves, 8 flowers, 17 links, 1 tab, 1 tassel
• Strand length: 81.5 in (207.0 cm)
• Strands A and B alternate on the rod
• All ends woven in securely

Troubleshooting

Leaf curls or cups: Rnd 2 or Rnd 3 is too tight. Work those rounds with a hook one size larger, or wet-block the leaf flat.

Leaf is lopsided: Check that each side of Rnd 1 has 18 sts and that you worked the second side into the bottom loops.

Petals ruffle: You added more than one extra sc per petal in Rnd 4. Recount; each petal should have 8 sc.

Pearl slides along the link: The first chain after the pearl was too loose. Redo the link and tighten that chain.

Strand is too long: Measure each motif against the checkpoints and remake any that are too big.

Strands twist: Make sure every link joins at the centered points described above.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll in a towel, and lay flat or hang to dry. Do not tumble dry, and do not iron over the pearls.

Final Notes

Here is how the measurements build up. A 4 in (10.2 cm) leaf, a 2.25 in (5.7 cm) flower and two 1.5 in (3.8 cm) links make one 9.25 in (23.5 cm) repeat. Eight repeats plus one extra link give a 75.5 in (191.8 cm) linked section. Add the 2 in (5.1 cm) tab drop and the 4 in (10.2 cm) tassel for a strand of 81.5 in (207.0 cm). Twenty-four strands at a 2 in (5.1 cm) pitch fill 48 in (121.9 cm) of rod. Check your gauge early and measure often, and the finished curtain will hang evenly.

Happy crocheting!