Petite Bloom Letter B Keychain Crochet Pattern

This little monogram keychain is a lacy capital letter B in creamy cotton, finished with three tiny raspberry flowers and soft sage leaves. A gold split ring hangs from the top-left corner, so you can clip the letter to a tote bag, a set of keys, or a zipper pull.

The fabric is an open V-stitch lace that looks like rows of small fans. One round of single crochet outlines the outer edge and both counters (the two open windows inside the B), so the letter keeps a crisp shape. The colors are cream for the letter, raspberry petals with butter-yellow centers, and sage-green leaves.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished letter measures 2.75 in (7.0 cm) wide x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, not counting the keyring.

The letter is worked flat in 13 rows from the bottom up. To make the two counters, you work short separate strips for the spine and the bowl wall, then close each window with a chain bridge. A single-crochet border comes next. The flowers and leaves are made separately and sewn on.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) wide x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Fingering (#1 Super Fine) cotton
  • Hook: 2.25 mm (US B-1)
  • Number of pieces: 1 letter, plus 3 flowers and 4 leaves (appliqués)
  • Layout: one single letter; no pieces to join
  • Piece size: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) after border
  • Size before border: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) x 3.25 in (8.3 cm)
  • Border depth: 0.125 in (0.3 cm) per side

Materials

Choose a smooth, mercerized fingering-weight cotton (about 170 m per 50 g). It shows the lace clearly and resists fuzzing on a keychain that gets handled daily.

  • Color A, Cream: 6 g / 20 m (letter and border)
  • Color B, Raspberry: 2 g / 6 m (petals)
  • Color C, Butter Yellow: 1 g / 3 m (flower centers)
  • Color D, Sage Green: 1 g / 4 m (leaves)

Tools:

  • 2.25 mm (US B-1) crochet hook
  • Gold split keyring, about 1 in (2.5 cm), with a short chain and jump ring
  • Tapestry needle
  • 2 locking stitch markers
  • Rust-proof pins and a small blocking surface
  • Scissors and a ruler

All quantities include a margin of about 20% for a gauge swatch and tails.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • sk – skip
  • sp – space
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • MR – magic ring

Special stitches:

  • V-st (V): (dc, ch 1, dc) in the same st or sp.
  • Half-V (hV): (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in the same st or sp. The hV is shorter than a V, so it rounds the outer corners of the bowls.

Columns: Each row holds up to 5 V-sts, called columns 1 to 5. Column 1 is the spine (left edge). The right edge is the “bowl edge.”

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 17 sts = 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across Row 1, and 4 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) in V-st pattern.

Test first: work Rows 1 to 4 straight across as a swatch, with 5 V-sts in every row and no windows. It should measure 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide x 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.

Checkpoints:

  • After Row 2: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide
  • After Row 7: 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall
  • After Row 13: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall at the spine
  • After the border: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) x 3.5 in (8.9 cm)

If your swatch is too big, go down to a 2.0 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 2.5 mm hook. Height matters most. If your rows are short, pull up the first loop of each dc a little taller.

Pink crocheted flower with yellow center and green leaves attached to cream mesh keychain with gold chain on wooden surface.

Letter Body

Use Color A.

Row 1 (bottom bar): Ch 19. Dc in 4th ch from hook (the skipped 3 ch count as the first dc) and in each ch across. Turn. (17 dc)

Row 1 starts at the bowl edge and ends at the spine.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), sk next st, V in next st, (sk 2 sts, V in next st) 3 times, sk 2 sts, hV in next st, sk next st, hdc in top of turning ch. Turn. (1 dc, 4 V, 1 hV, 1 hdc – 5 columns)

Lower Window, Rows 3 to 6

The lower counter opens over columns 2, 3, and 4.

Right wall, Row 3: Ch 3, V in hV sp of column 5, dc in sp between columns 4 and 5. Turn. (1 V + 2 dc)

Right wall, Rows 4 and 5: Ch 3, V in V sp, dc in top of turning ch. Turn after Row 4 only. (1 V + 2 dc)

Fasten off after Row 5. Its last dc sits at the window edge.

Spine, Row 3: Join Color A with ch 3 in sp between columns 1 and 2 of Row 2. V in V sp of column 1, dc in top of Row 2 turning ch. Turn. (1 V + 2 dc)

Spine, Rows 4 to 6: Ch 3, V in V sp, dc in top of turning ch. Turn after Rows 4 and 5 only. (1 V + 2 dc each)

Spine Row 6 ends at the window edge. Don’t turn.

Bridge and right wall, Row 6: Ch 9 for the bridge. Dc in last dc of right wall Row 5, V in V sp, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (Right wall: 1 V + 2 dc; bridge: 9 ch)

Row 7 (waist bar, full width): Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hV in V sp of column 5, sk next dc. Over the bridge: sk 1 ch, V in next ch, (sk 2 ch, V in next ch) twice, sk 1 ch. Sk next dc, V in V sp of column 1, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (1 hdc, 1 hV, 4 V, 1 dc – 5 columns)

Bridge check: 1 + 1 + 2 + 1 + 2 + 1 + 1 = 9 ch, so you use all 9 bridge chains.

Row 8 (upper bowl base): Ch 3, V in V sp of each of columns 1, 2, and 3, hV in V sp of column 4, hdc in sp before the hV of column 5. Turn, leaving column 5 unworked. (1 dc, 3 V, 1 hV, 1 hdc – 4 columns)

The unworked column 5 makes the waist notch between the bowls.

Upper Window, Rows 9 to 11

The upper counter opens over columns 2 and 3. Put a marker in the live loop and pull it up long so it can’t unravel.

Spine, Row 9: Join a new strand of Color A with ch 3 in sp between columns 1 and 2 of Row 8. V in V sp of column 1, dc in top of Row 8 turning ch. Turn. (1 V + 2 dc)

Spine, Row 10: Ch 3, V in V sp, dc in top of turning ch. Fasten off. (1 V + 2 dc)

Right wall, Row 9: Go back to the live loop. Ch 3, V in hV sp of column 4, dc in sp between columns 3 and 4. Turn. (1 V + 2 dc)

Right wall, Rows 10 and 11: Ch 3, V in V sp, dc in top of turning ch. Turn after Row 10 only. (1 V + 2 dc)

Bridge and spine, Row 11: Ch 6 for the bridge. Dc in last dc of spine Row 10, V in V sp, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (Spine: 1 V + 2 dc; bridge: 6 ch)

Row 12: Ch 3, V in V sp of column 1, sk next dc. Over the bridge: sk 1 ch, V in next ch, sk 2 ch, V in next ch, sk 1 ch. Sk next dc, V in V sp of column 4, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (4 V + 2 dc)

Bridge check: 1 + 1 + 2 + 1 + 1 = 6 ch.

Row 13 (top bar): Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hV in V sp of column 4, V in V sp of each of columns 3, 2, and 1, dc in top of turning ch. Don’t fasten off. (1 hdc, 1 hV, 3 V, 1 dc – 4 columns; 14 sts and sps)

The body now measures 2.5 in (6.4 cm) x 3.25 in (8.3 cm). Weave in the strip tails before you start the border.

Border

Border gauge: 1 sc is about 0.125 in (0.3 cm). That means 2 sc fit along each 0.25 in (0.6 cm) dc row-end, and 1 sc fits along each shorter hdc row-end.

Square corners on the spine side get 3 sc in one st. Rounded corners on the bowl side get only 1 sc, which draws them into curves. The inside notch corner gets no extra st.

Outer Round: With Color A, continue from the end of Row 13 and work counterclockwise.

  • Top-left corner: Ch 1, 3 sc in last dc of Row 13. (3 sc)
  • Spine edge: 2 sc in each of 13 row-ends. (26 sc)
  • Bottom edge: Working in the underside of the foundation ch, 3 sc in first ch (bottom-left corner), then 1 sc in each of the remaining 16 ch. The last ch is the rounded bottom-right corner. (17 ch worked + 2 extra = 19 sc)
  • Lower bowl edge: 2 sc in Row 1 end, 1 sc in Row 2 end, 2 sc in each of Rows 3 to 6, 1 sc in Row 7 end. (2 + 1 + 8 + 1 = 12 sc)
  • Notch ledge: 1 sc in top of Row 7 ch-2 (rounded corner), 1 sc in hdc, 1 sc in ch-1 sp, 1 sc in next hdc. (4 sc)
  • Upper bowl edge: 1 sc in Row 8 end, 2 sc in each of Rows 9 to 12, 1 sc in Row 13 end. (1 + 8 + 1 = 10 sc)
  • Top edge: 1 sc in top of Row 13 ch-2 (rounded corner), then 1 sc in each remaining st and ch-1 sp up to the corner dc. (13 sc)

Sl st to first sc to join. The top edge has 14 sts and sps worked + 2 extra = 16 sc. Round total: 16 + 26 + 19 + 12 + 4 + 10 = 87 sc.

Hanging tab: Ch 6, sl st in center sc of the top-left corner. Fasten off.

Lower Window Edging: Join Color A at any window corner. Work 9 sc along Row 2 (1 in each dc and ch-1 sp of columns 2 to 4), 8 sc along the right wall (2 per row-end, Rows 3 to 6), 9 sc in the bridge chains, and 8 sc along the spine. Sl st to join. (34 sc)

Upper Window Edging: Work 6 sc along Row 8 (columns 2 and 3), 6 sc along the right wall (Rows 9 to 11), 6 sc in the bridge, and 6 sc along the spine. Sl st to join. (24 sc)

Why the math works: the 17 foundation chains get 17 sc, and the 13 spine rows get 2 sc each to cover 3.25 in (8.3 cm). The window edgings use the exact stitch and chain totals from the rows. Corner stitches are the only additions, so the edges lie flat without ruffling or cupping.

Flowers and Leaves

Flower (make 3): With Color C, MR, 5 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (5 sc) Join Color B in any sc. (Sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in same sc, sl st in next sc 5 times. (5 petals: 25 sts + 5 sl st) Fasten off. Each flower is about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) across.

Leaf (make 4): With Color D, ch 6. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. Ch 1, rotate, and work along the other side of the chain: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. Sl st to tip. (10 sts) Each leaf is about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long.

Placement:

  • Flower 1 on the top-left corner, with 2 leaves tucked behind it pointing left
  • Flower 2 at the waist notch on the right, with 1 leaf pointing right
  • Flower 3 on the bottom-left corner, with 1 leaf pointing down-left

Sew each leaf on first. Then sew the flower on top through its yellow center so the petals stay free.

Final Blocking

  1. Block the letter before you add the flowers. Wet it, then press out the water in a towel.
  2. Pin the spine straight and the two left corners square.
  3. Ease the four bowl corners into smooth curves.
  4. Pin the waist notch into a clean inward point.
  5. Open each window into an even shape with softly rounded corners.
  6. Check for 2.75 in (7.0 cm) x 3.5 in (8.9 cm), then let it dry completely.
  7. Sew on the flowers and leaves. Slip the jump ring through the hanging tab and close it.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Row 1 has 17 dc. Rows 2 and 7 have 5 columns. Rows 8, 12, and 13 have 4.
  • The lower bridge used 9 ch and the upper bridge used 6 ch.
  • The outer border has 87 sc. The window edgings have 34 and 24 sc.
  • Spine-side corners are square and bowl-side corners are round.
  • All tails are woven in on the back.
  • Flowers and leaves are sewn on firmly and sit flat.

Troubleshooting

  • Letter is too wide: Your dc stitches are loose. Go down a hook size and test again.
  • Windows sag: The bridge chain is loose. Chain more firmly, or use a smaller hook for the bridge only.
  • Edge ruffles: You’ve added extra sc on the row-ends. Recount against the per-side totals.
  • Bowls look square: Check that you used the hV and the 1-sc rounded corners.
  • Petals cup: Steam the flowers flat and sew only through the center.

Care

Take off the metal keyring, then hand wash in cool water with mild soap and dry flat.

Person wearing cream and forest green crochet pieces with pink flowers, modeled outdoors in a garden.

Final Notes

The measurement chain is simple. The 17-dc foundation gives 2.5 in (6.4 cm) of width and 13 rows give 3.25 in (8.3 cm) of height. The 0.125 in (0.3 cm) border then brings the letter to 2.75 in (7.0 cm) x 3.5 in (8.9 cm). If you check each stage, your finished letter will match.

Happy crocheting!

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