This bag holder keeps plastic grocery bags tidy and still looks good on a kitchen or laundry-room wall. The Seaside Shell Bag Holder is a tall cobalt-blue tube with an open diamond mesh. You stuff bags in through the top and pull them out one at a time through a round hole near the bottom.
Two cream scallop trims give it a coastal look: one around the top rim and one where the solid base meets the mesh. Three ribbed cream shells run up the front, centered over the dispensing hole. A blue strap hangs it from a hook or doorknob.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 15.4 in (39.1 cm) tall and 4.75 in (12.1 cm) in diameter, with a 15 in (38.1 cm) circumference.
You work it from the bottom up in joined rounds. First comes a flat circle, then a solid wall with a chain-slot hole, then a chain-loop trellis mesh, and finally a solid top band. After that you add the scallop trims, make three shell appliqués and sew them on, and attach the strap.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 15.4 in (39.1 cm) tall without the strap, 4.75 in (12.1 cm) diameter
- Height with strap peak: about 19.4 in (49.3 cm)
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: US H-8 (5.0 mm)
- Number of pieces: 1 tube, 3 shell appliqués and 1 strap
- Layout: one vertical column of 3 shells on the front, centered above the hole
- Tube circumference: 60 sts = 15 in (38.1 cm)
- Size before trims: 14.9 in (37.8 cm) tall
- Trim depth: the scallops add about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) at the top rim
Materials
Use a smooth, firm cotton. It holds its shape under the weight of the bags and shows the mesh clearly. Acrylic also works, but the mesh will stretch more.
- Color A, royal blue: 85 g / 145 m (about 159 yd)
- Color B, cream: 15 g / 26 m (about 28 yd)
- US H-8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
The quantities are based on a 50 g / 85 m cotton and include about a 15% margin.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- BPdc: back post double crochet. Yarn over, insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch, and complete a dc.
- BLO / FLO: back loop only / front loop only
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- sk: skip
- MR: magic ring
- st(s): stitch(es)
Special stitch: Scallop. Sk 2 sts, 5 dc in the next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in the next st. Each scallop uses 6 sts.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in joined rounds.
Mesh gauge: 1 ch-5 loop spans 4 sts = 1 in (2.5 cm) across, and 2 mesh rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm) tall when the piece hangs.
Before starting, work the base circle through Rnd 10 and measure it. It should be about 4.5 to 4.75 in (11.4 to 12.1 cm) across.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 10, the base lies flat at about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
– After Rnd 28, the solid wall is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 38, the mesh is about 5 in (12.7 cm) tall when hanging.
– After Rnd 52, the tube is 14.9 in (37.8 cm) tall.
If your piece is too big: go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small: go up to a 5.5 mm hook. If the base ruffles, your tension is loose, so go down a hook size. If it cups, go up a size.
Base
With Color A:
Rnd 1: In the MR, ch 1 and work 6 sc. Sl st to the first sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st, sl st to the first sc. (12)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc 1, inc 6 times, sl st to join. (18)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 2, inc 6 times, join. (24)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc 3, inc 6 times, join. (30)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc 4, inc 6 times, join. (36)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc 5, inc 6 times, join. (42)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc 6, inc 6 times, join. (48)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc 7, inc 6 times, join. (54)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc 8, inc 6 times, join. (60)
Checkpoint: the circle is flat and about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
Solid Wall with Dispensing Hole
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of each st, join. (60) This makes a crisp fold line where the base turns up.
Rnds 12–18: Ch 1, sc in each st, join. (60)
Rnd 19 (hole): Ch 1, sc 25, ch 10, sk 10, sc 25, join. (60: 50 sc + 10 ch)
Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc 25, sc in each of the 10 ch, sc 25, join. (60)
Rnds 21–26: Ch 1, sc in each st, join. (60)
Rnd 27: Ch 1, sc in each st, join. (60)
Rnd 28: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of each st, join. (60) This leaves 60 free front loops on Rnd 27 for the lower scallop trim.
The slot is 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide and centered on stitches 26–35. That makes the gap between sts 30 and 31 the front center of the holder. Place a marker there.
Checkpoint: the wall from Rnd 11 to Rnd 28 is 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Diamond Trellis Mesh
Rnd 29: Ch 1, sc in the first st, ch 5, sk 3, sc in the next st 14 times, sk 3, ch 2, dc in the first sc. (15 loops)
Stitch check: 1 sc + 14 × (3 skipped + 1 sc) = 57 sts, and the final 3 skipped sts bring the total to 60. The ch-2 + dc closes the 15th loop and brings your hook to the center of that loop, so the rounds don’t drift.
Rnds 30–48: Ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 loop 14 times, ch 2, dc in the top of the joining dc. (15 loops in each round)
Each sc sits at the center of a loop below it, which creates the diamond lattice. Checkpoint after Rnd 48: 20 mesh rounds, about 10 in (25.4 cm) tall when hanging.
Top Band
Rnd 49 (conversion): Ch 1, 2 sc around the post of the joining dc, 4 sc in the next ch-5 loop 14 times, 2 sc in the ch-2 space, sl st to the first sc. (2 + 56 + 2 = 60 sts, or 15 loops × 4 sc)
Rnds 50–51: Ch 1, sc in each st, join. (60) Fasten off Color A.
Rnd 52: Join Color B. Ch 1, sc in each st, join. (60)
Checkpoint: the tube is 4 + 10 + 0.9 in = 14.9 in (37.8 cm) tall.
Edgings
Edging gauge: 1 scallop = 6 sts = 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide and about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deep.
Top rim (Rnd 53): With Color B, sl st in the first st, then work 10 Scallops. The last sl st lands in the first st. (10 scallops) Fasten off.
Lower trim: Hold the tube upside down. Join Color B with a sl st in any free front loop of Rnd 27. Working only into those free loops, make 10 Scallops, ending in the joining st. (10 scallops) Fasten off. The scallops flip down over the solid wall.
Hole edging: Join Color A at the right corner of the slot. Work 10 sc into the 10 free sts of Rnd 18, 1 sc in the corner, 10 sc into the underside of the 10 chains, and 1 sc in the corner. Sl st to join. (22 sc) Fasten off. With this firm edge, the 2.5 in (6.4 cm) slot opens to a round hole about 1.6 in (4.1 cm) across when the holder is full.
Why the math works: Each round has 60 sts and each Scallop uses 6, so 60 ÷ 6 = 10 scallops with no leftover stitches. The hole edging uses exactly 10 sts per long edge, matching the 10 skipped sts and the 10 chains, plus 1 sc per corner.
Shell Appliqués (Make 3)
With Color B:
Ch 4.
Row 1 (RS): 7 dc in the 4th ch from the hook. The skipped ch counts as the first dc. Turn. (8 dc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1. BPdc around the next st, dc in the top of the same st 8 times. Turn. (16 sts: 8 BPdc + 8 dc)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1. Sc in the next dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the next BPdc 8 times. (24 sc + 8 ch-1 picots)
The BPdc posts show as raised ribs on the RS, and each one ends in a picot tip.
Foot: Ch 1 and work 3 sc evenly along the straight base edge. Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
Each shell measures about 2.4 in (6.1 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Placement and Strap
Shells: Center the shells on the front-center marker, in a single column directly above the hole, with the ribs fanning upward. Center them on Rnds 34, 39 and 44, which spaces them 2.5 in (6.4 cm) apart center to center. Sew around the outer edge through the mesh strands, catching every picot and the foot. Don’t pull the stitches tight.
Strap: With Color A, ch 41.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (40) Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (40) Fasten off.
The strap is 10 in (25.4 cm) long. Sew one end inside the rim at st 15 and the other at st 45. Each end should overlap the top band by 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along stitch columns of the same color.
- Slide a rolled towel or an empty 2-liter bottle into the tube.
- Mist the holder lightly, or steam it from 1 in (2.5 cm) away. Don’t press.
- Use your fingers to open the mesh diamonds evenly, so all 15 line up straight around.
- Push each scallop flat and curve the shell ribs outward.
- Shape the hole into a circle with two fingers.
- Let it dry fully on the form, then hang it and check the 15.4 in (39.1 cm) height.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The base is flat, 60 sts, about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
- The solid wall is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- The hole is centered on the front marker and edged with 22 sc.
- There are 15 mesh loops in every round, with no spiral drift.
- Each scallop trim has 10 even scallops.
- The 3 shells form a straight column above the hole.
- The strap ends sit directly opposite each other at sts 15 and 45.
Troubleshooting
- Mesh spirals: you skipped the ch-2 + dc closing. Redo the round and finish it correctly.
- Wrong loop count: Rnd 29 must skip exactly 3 sts between each sc.
- Scallops ruffle or pull: the round isn’t exactly 60 sts. Recount Rnd 27 or Rnd 52.
- Hole too tight: loosen the edging, or work Rnd 19 as ch 12, sk 12. If you do, change both sc 25 groups to sc 24 and use 12 sts per long edge in the hole edging (26 sc total).
- Holder sags too long: use a firmer cotton, or cut the mesh to 18 rounds.
- Shells droop: sew through the center and through each rib, not just the edge.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, roll it in a towel, and dry it flat over a form. Reshape the mesh while it’s damp.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain:
- 60 sts at 16 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 15 in (38.1 cm) circumference and a 4.75 in (12.1 cm) diameter.
- The solid wall is 4 in (10.2 cm), the mesh 10 in (25.4 cm) and the top band 0.9 in (2.3 cm), for 14.9 in (37.8 cm) before trims.
- The 0.5 in (1.3 cm) top scallop brings the holder to 15.4 in (39.1 cm).
Each trim round uses 60 ÷ 6 = 10 scallops with no leftover stitches. Keep 60 stitches in every solid round and 15 loops in every mesh round, and the holder will hang straight and full.
Happy crocheting!