The Skyline Ripple Bag Holder is a tall, lacy tube that hangs on a hook and keeps plastic grocery bags in one place. You push bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time through a snug cuff at the bottom.
The design uses a single soft sky-blue cotton. Solid zigzag bands alternate with rounds of small eyelet holes, so the fabric looks light without losing its strength. The strap is plain single crochet, and the top and bottom bands are firm single crochet. These plain areas balance the busy chevron body.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. When hung flat, the holder measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide and 17 in (43.2 cm) tall. The strap adds a loop about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) high.
It is made in one piece from the bottom up. You start with a small single-crochet cuff, increase over two rounds to the chevron width, and work 21 chevron rounds. A leveling round flattens the zigzag edge, then a top band finishes the opening. The strap is worked straight off the rim and joined to the opposite side.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide flat × 17 in (43.2 cm) tall, plus the strap
- Skill level: Easy-Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: #4 medium (worsted), cotton
- Hook: US H-8 (5 mm)
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: one seamless tube with the strap worked from the rim
- Piece size: 13 in (33.0 cm) around the chevron section
- Size before border: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide × 16 in (40.6 cm) tall
- Border depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) top band, plus an 8 in (20.3 cm) strap
Materials
Yarn: Use a worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape when the holder is full and does not stretch out at the strap. Avoid very soft acrylic, which lets the bottom cuff relax until bags fall out.
- Sky Blue: 140 g, about 240 m (262 yd)
The quantity includes a margin of about 15% for gauge differences and your swatch.
Tools:
- US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
- Locking stitch markers (at least 2)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Spray bottle and a rolled towel for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- sk: skip
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sp: space
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
- rep: repeat
Special stitches:
- dc3tog (valley decrease): Yarn over, insert the hook in the next st, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * in each of the next 2 sts (4 loops on the hook), then yarn over and pull through all 4. This turns 3 sts into 1.
- Peak: Work 3 dc in 1 st. This turns 1 st into 3.
- Ch-1 sp: In eyelet rounds, every ch-1 counts as 1 st. In the next round, work into it as you would a stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Single crochet: 14 sc and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Chevron: one 12-st repeat = 3.25 in (8.3 cm) wide, peak to peak; 8 pattern rounds = 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
There is only one piece, so the first 14 rounds are your test. Stop and measure at each checkpoint before you go on.
- After Rnd 4: the cuff lies flat at 3.4 in (8.6 cm) wide and 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 14: Rnds 7–14 measure 5 in (12.7 cm) tall, and the tube lies flat at 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide.
- After Rnd 28: the body measures 16 in (40.6 cm) from the bottom edge.
- After Rnd 32: the body measures 17 in (43.2 cm).
If your tube is too wide, go down one hook size. If it is too narrow, go up one size. If only the height is off, keep your hook and change the number of chevron rounds in pairs (one ripple round plus one eyelet round). Always end on a ripple round.
Pattern
Join every round with a sl st to the first st. Do not turn.
The chevron rounds begin with “sl st in next st.” This one-stitch shift stacks each peak on the peak below it. Skip it and the zigzags will lean into a spiral.
Bottom Cuff
Foundation: Ch 24 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Check that the chain is not twisted.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, then join. (24 sc)
Rnds 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, then join. (24 sc)
When flattened, the cuff has 12 sts per side. This is the bag opening, so keep it firm.
Taper
Rnd 5 (growth): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 11 more times, then join. (36 dc)*
Rnd 6 (growth): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 11 more times, then join. (48 dc)*
48 sts is exactly 4 chevron repeats of 12 sts.
Chevron Body
Ripple Round: Sl st in next st, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts. Dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts; rep from * 2 more times. Work the last dc3tog over the last 2 sts and the first st of the previous round (where the old join sits). Join to the top of the beginning ch-3. (48 sts: 12 per repeat)*
Eyelet Round: Sl st in next st, ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch-1), sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc3tog over next 3 sts. Dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc3tog over next 3 sts; rep from * 2 more times. As before, work the last dc3tog over the last 2 sts and the st holding the old join. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (48 sts: 8 dc, 4 ch-1 sps, 1 dc3tog per repeat)*
Repeat check: Each repeat uses 12 sts and makes 12. The peak adds 2 sts and the dc3tog removes 2, so the count never drifts.
Rnd 7: Ripple Round. (48)
Rnd 8: Eyelet Round. (48)
Rnds 9–27: Alternate the two rounds, starting with a Ripple Round. Odd rounds are Ripple Rounds and even rounds are Eyelet Rounds. (48 each round)
That makes 21 chevron rounds: 11 solid zigzag bands and 10 eyelet rounds. Rnds 7–27 measure about 13.1 in (33.3 cm).
Rnd 28 (leveling, conversion): Sl st in next st, ch 3 (counts as dc), hdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, tr in next st, dc in next st. Dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, tr in next st, dc in next st; rep from * 2 more times. Work the last dc into the st holding the old join, then join. (48 sts worked 1 per existing st + 0 added = 48)*
The short stitches sit over the peaks and the tr sits in each valley, so the top edge comes out level. This round adds about 5/8 in (1.6 cm).
Border: Top Band and Hanging Strap
Border gauge: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), and 4 sc rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Rnd 29 (trim, decrease): Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog; rep from * 7 more times, then join. (32 sc worked 1 per st + 8 sc2tog = 40 sts)* Flattened, that is 20 sts per side.
Rnds 30–32: Ch 1, sc in each st around, then join. (40 sc: 20 per side)
Place a marker in st 1 and another in st 21. These two points are exactly opposite each other.
Strap (do not fasten off):
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in sts 1, 2, and 3 of Rnd 32, then turn. (3 sc)
Rows 2–32: Ch 1, sc in each st across, then turn. (3 sc)
Check that the strap measures 8 in (20.3 cm). Line up its last row with sts 21–23 of Rnd 32, making sure the strap is not twisted. Sl st through both layers across all 3 sts. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works:
- The cuff’s 24 sts grow by ×1.5 to 36, then by ×4/3 to 48. 48 is exactly 4 repeats of 12, so the chevron closes with no partial repeat.
- The top band drops 48 to 40 (8 decreases evenly spaced). A 40-st band is 11.4 in (29.0 cm) around, slightly less than the 13 in (33.0 cm) chevron, so the top stays neat instead of flaring.
- The strap ends sit at sts 1–3 and 21–23. They start exactly 20 sts apart (half of 40), with 17 free sts on each side, so the holder hangs straight.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends before blocking.
- Spray the holder evenly until it is damp, not dripping.
- Roll a hand towel into a tube about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide when flattened and slide it inside.
- Gently stretch the chevron section to 13.1 in (33.3 cm) tall. Line up the peaks vertically.
- Pinch each peak and valley into a crisp point with your fingers.
- Leave the strap and cuff unstretched so they stay firm.
- Let it dry completely, then remove the towel.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every chevron round has 48 sts, with 4 peaks and 4 valleys.
- The peaks stack in straight vertical columns with no spiral.
- There are 11 solid bands and 10 eyelet rounds.
- The cuff has 24 sts and its opening is about 2.2 in (5.6 cm) across.
- The top band has 40 sts and is 1 in (2.5 cm) deep.
- The strap is 3 sts wide, 8 in (20.3 cm) long, untwisted, and attached at opposite points.
- The holder is 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide and 17 in (43.2 cm) tall.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
- Zigzags spiral around the tube: You left out the “sl st in next st” at the start of a round. Rip back to that round and redo it.
- Count is off in an eyelet round: You probably skipped a ch-1 sp in the next Ripple Round. Every ch-1 counts as 1 st.
- Bags slide out of the bottom: The cuff is too loose. Rework Rnds 1–4 with a one-size-smaller hook.
- Top edge is wavy: Check that Rnd 28 has a tr in each valley and 5 sc across each peak.
- Top band flares: Check the 8 sc2tog in Rnd 29, or work Rnds 29–32 with a smaller hook.
- Strap stretches with use: Work a sl st along both long edges to firm it up.
Care
Machine wash cold on a gentle cycle or hand wash. Reshape while damp and lay flat or hang to dry.
Final Notes
Each checkpoint builds on the one before it:
- A 3.4 in (8.6 cm) cuff of 24 sts tapers out to 48 sts.
- Four 3.25 in (8.3 cm) chevron repeats make a 13 in (33.0 cm) circumference, or 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide when flat.
- 21 chevron rounds add 13.1 in (33.3 cm).
- The leveling round brings the body to 16 in (40.6 cm).
- The top band brings it to 17 in (43.2 cm).
- An 8 in (20.3 cm) strap completes the hanging loop.
If each checkpoint matches, the finished holder will too. Happy crocheting!