Plastic bags pile up fast. This holder keeps them in one tidy tube on the wall. You stuff bags in through the open top and pull them out one at a time through the narrower bottom opening. The body is worked in a raised star stitch. It looks like rows of tiny flowers and makes a sturdy fabric that keeps its shape.
The sample is in soft peach, and a periwinkle version shows how well the design works in other colors. A plain single crochet band finishes the top and bottom. A crocheted-over ring at the top lets you hang the holder on any hook, door knob, or pantry peg.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is 5 in (12.7 cm) wide when laid flat and 17 in (43.2 cm) tall. With the tab and ring, it hangs about 21.5 in (54.6 cm) long.
You make the holder in one piece. Start from a foundation chain joined in the round and work the star stitch body upward in joined, turned rounds. Then add the top band and pick up stitches for the narrower bottom band. Finish with a short tab that grips a covered ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide flat × 17 in (43.2 cm) tall; about 21.5 in (54.6 cm) including tab and ring
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 (tube body with an integrated tab; the ring is covered and bound in during the last tab row)
- Layout: Tube worked from the bottom up in joined, turned rounds; seam line at center back
- Piece size: 10 in (25.4 cm) around at the body (5 in / 12.7 cm flat)
- Size before border: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide flat × 15 in (38.1 cm) tall (star stitch body only)
- Border depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) at the top and 1 in (2.5 cm) at the bottom
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted weight acrylic or cotton blend. Acrylic is light and easy to wash. Cotton holds its shape well but is heavier. Avoid fuzzy or very splitty yarns, because the star stitch needs you to see every loop clearly. Star stitch uses a lot of yarn, so buy enough of one dye lot.
- Main color (Peach): 160 g, about 293 m (320 yd)
- Optional alternate colorway (Periwinkle): 160 g, about 293 m (320 yd) per holder, in place of Peach
Quantities include a margin of about 15% for your gauge swatch and small tension differences.
Tools:
– 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– 5.5 mm (I-9) hook for the foundation chain (optional, keeps it from getting tight)
– One metal or plastic ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
– 2 locking stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Spray bottle and a rolled towel for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- hdc – half double crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Star stitch (special stitch):
- First star: Ch 3. Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull up a loop. Insert in 3rd ch from hook, yo, pull up a loop. Then pull up a loop in each of the next 3 sts (6 loops on hook). Yo and pull through all 6 loops, then ch 1 to close. This ch-1 is the eye.
- Next star: Insert hook in the eye just made, pull up a loop. Insert in the back of the last loop of the previous star, pull up a loop. Insert in the same st where the previous star’s last loop went, pull up a loop. Then pull up a loop in each of the next 2 sts (6 loops on hook). Yo, pull through all 6, ch 1 to close the eye.
Each star after the first moves forward 2 stitches.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Star stitch gauge: 24 sts (12 stars) × 8 rnds = 5 in (12.7 cm) wide × 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, with a 5 mm hook.
Single crochet gauge: 16 sc × 16 rnds = 4 in × 4 in (10.2 cm × 10.2 cm).
Before you start, work a flat swatch: ch 25, then work alternating star rows and hdc rows for 8 rows. Measure the swatch in the center, away from the edges.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 8, the tube should measure 5 in (12.7 cm) flat and 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 24, it should be 9 in (22.9 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 40, it should be 15 in (38.1 cm) tall.
– After the borders, it should be 17 in (43.2 cm) tall.
If your piece is too big, go down a half size to 4.5 mm (US 7). If it is too small, go up to 5.5 mm (I-9). For the star stitch, the width matters more than the height. If only the height is off, you can add or remove star and hdc round pairs.

Body
The body is worked in joined, turned rounds. Turning after each round keeps the seam straight and stops the tube from spiraling. Place the seam at center back.
Foundation: With the larger hook (if you’re using one), ch 48. Join with a sl st to the first ch, taking care not to twist the chain. Switch to the 5 mm hook. (48 ch)
Rnd 1 (RS, star round): Work a first star, pulling up loops in the 2nd and 3rd ch of the ch-3 and in the next 3 foundation chs. Then work next stars around until you have 23 stars. For the 24th star, pull up loops in the eye, the back of the last loop, the same ch, the last foundation ch, and the base of the first star (6 loops on hook). Close it and ch 1. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (24 stars)
Rnd 2 (WS, hdc round): Ch 2 (does not count as a st) and turn. Work 2 hdc in each eye around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (48 hdc)
Rnd 3 (RS, star round): Ch 3 and turn. Work the first star into the ch-3 and the first 3 hdc. Continue with next stars around, closing the 24th star into the first hdc as in Rnd 1. Join. (24 stars)
Rnd 4: Repeat Rnd 2. (48 hdc)
Rnds 5–40: Repeat Rnds 3–4 another 18 times. You’ll end after an hdc round. (48 hdc)
You now have 20 star rounds and 20 hdc rounds, 40 rnds in total. Each round adds about 0.375 in (1.0 cm), so the body measures 15 in (38.1 cm) tall and 5 in (12.7 cm) flat. Don’t fasten off.
The stars sit staggered between rounds because each new star round starts from the opposite direction. That gives the scattered-flower look.
Border
The border is a single crochet band at each end. The top band stays open and wide so you can push bags in. The bottom band narrows so bags only come out one at a time.
Border gauge: 4 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) across; 4 rnds = 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Top Border
Rnd 1 (RS, trim round): Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * to * 8 times. Join. (32 sc + 8 sc2tog = 40 sts)
Rnds 2–4: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each st around. Join. (40 sc)
Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why it works: 40 sc ÷ 4 sc per in = 10 in (25.4 cm) around. That matches the body’s 48 star-stitch sts at 4.8 sts per in. Flattened, each side is 20 sc = 5 in (12.7 cm), so the top stays straight instead of flaring.
Bottom Border
Turn the tube upside down. Join yarn with a sl st at the center-back seam in the remaining loop of the foundation chain.
Rnd 1 (trim round): Ch 1. Sc in the next ch, sc2tog over the next 2 chs; repeat from * to * 16 times. Join. (16 sc + 16 sc2tog = 32 sts)
Rnds 2–4: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each st around. Join. (32 sc)
Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why it works: 32 sc ÷ 4 = 8 in (20.3 cm) around. Flattened, each side is 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). The opening is 1 in (2.5 cm) narrower than the body when flat. That holds the bags in while still letting you pull one out with two fingers.
Checkpoint: The tube is now 1 in + 15 in + 1 in = 17 in (43.2 cm) tall.
Hanging Ring and Tab
Cover the Ring
Join the yarn around the 3 in (7.6 cm) ring with a sl st. Work 56 sc over the ring, pushing the stitches together as you go so no ring shows through. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (56 sc) Fasten off and weave in the end.
Tab
Flatten the tube so the seam is at center back. Count 4 sts to the right of the seam on the last top border round and place a marker.
Row 1 (RS): Join yarn at the marker. Ch 1, then sc in the same st and in each of the next 7 sts. That’s 4 sts on each side of the seam. Turn. (8 sc)
Rows 2–6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (8 sc)
The tab is now 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Row 7 (attach ring): Hold the covered ring centered above the tab. Ch 1. For each of the 8 tab sts, insert your hook into the tab st, then over the ring between two covering sc, and work an sc that binds them together. (8 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Use the tail to whipstitch the side edges of the tab to the top band for extra strength, then weave it in.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends on the inside of the tube, following the hdc rounds so they disappear.
- Roll a bath towel into a firm cylinder about 3 in (7.6 cm) thick and slide it into the tube.
- Gently pat the tube flat to 5 in (12.7 cm) wide and 17 in (43.2 cm) tall.
- Mist evenly with water. For acrylic, you can steam lightly with the iron held above the fabric, without touching it.
- Use your fingertips to push each star gently into shape.
- Shape the bottom band so it pulls in neatly to 4 in (10.2 cm) flat.
- Leave it to dry completely before removing the towel.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Body has 24 stars in every star round and 48 hdc in every hdc round.
- Seam runs straight up the center back.
- Top border has 40 sc and measures 5 in (12.7 cm) flat.
- Bottom border has 32 sc and measures 4 in (10.2 cm) flat.
- Tube is 17 in (43.2 cm) tall.
- Ring is fully covered with 56 sc and no gaps.
- Tab is centered over the seam and firmly bound to the ring.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
The tube spirals. You probably forgot to turn at the start of a round. Rip back to the round where it started and turn every round.
My star count is off. Each star after the first must start in the eye and the shared stitch. If you skip the shared stitch, you’ll end up with extra stars. Count 24 eyes before you work the hdc round.
The foundation is tight and puckers. Chain with the 5.5 mm hook, or loosen your tension on the chain.
The top flares. Make sure you worked the sc2tog trim round. If it still flares, go down a hook size for the top border only.
Bags fall out of the bottom. Add one more round: sc 2, sc2tog around (24 sc + 8 sc2tog = 24 sts… worked over 32 sts this gives 24 sts total), then sc 1 round.
The tab stretches. Add a row of sl sts on the back of the tab, or whipstitch it to the top band more firmly.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat over a rolled towel to dry. Acrylic versions can go through a gentle machine cycle inside a mesh bag.

Final Notes
The size of this holder comes from one simple chain of measurements:
– The gauge of 24 sts = 5 in (12.7 cm) gives a 48-st body that is 10 in (25.4 cm) around.
– 40 rounds at 0.375 in (1.0 cm) each make a 15 in (38.1 cm) body.
– The 40-st top band and 32-st bottom band each add 1 in (2.5 cm), for 17 in (43.2 cm) total.
– The tab adds 1.5 in (3.8 cm) and the 3 in (7.6 cm) ring finishes the hanging length.
Check your gauge, count your stars, and the rest falls into place.
Happy crocheting!