These lace curtain panels are made from square star motifs. Each motif has a solid five-pointed star surrounded by airy diamond mesh. When light comes through the window, the stars show up clearly against the open lace.
The sample uses one panel in bright royal blue and one in soft cream, but you can make both panels the same color. The look is cottage-style and works well in a sunny room. All instructions use US crochet terms.
Each finished panel measures 15 in (38.1 cm) wide by 85.75 in (217.8 cm) long from the top border to the tips of the scallops. The tab loops add about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) above that, so the total hanging length is about 88 in (223.5 cm).
Here is how it comes together. You crochet 24 motifs per panel and join them into a grid 2 motifs wide and 12 motifs tall. Then you work a two-round border, add scallops along the bottom edge, and finish with five sewn-down tabs across the top.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished panel size: 15 in x 85.75 in (38.1 cm x 217.8 cm), plus tab loops
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK (#3) cotton
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 48 motifs in total (24 per panel), plus 10 tabs
- Layout: 2 motifs across x 12 motifs down per panel
- Motif size: 7 in x 7 in (17.8 cm x 17.8 cm)
- Panel size before border: 14 in x 84 in (35.6 cm x 213.4 cm)
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on the sides and top; 1.25 in (3.2 cm) at the bottom, including the scallops
Materials
Use a smooth mercerized cotton or a cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape in sunlight, blocks crisply, and shows the star clearly. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they blur the mesh.
- Color A, Royal Blue: 350 g / 735 m (7 balls of 50 g / 105 m)
- Color B, Cream: 350 g / 735 m (7 balls of 50 g / 105 m)
Tools:
– 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers
– Rust-proof pins and blocking mats
– Measuring tape
– Spray bottle
The quantities include a margin of about 20% for swatching, joining, and tension differences.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- BLO – back loop only
Special stitch – Corner (Rnd 5): (tr, ch 3, tr) in the same stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), and 16 rows of sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), after blocking.
Make one complete motif and block it before you start the rest. Check its size at each of these stages:
- After Rnd 1: about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
- After Rnd 2: about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across
- After Rnd 3: about 4 in (10.2 cm) from one star point to the opposite valley
- After Rnd 5: about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) per side
- After Rnd 6: about 5.25 in (13.3 cm) per side
- After Rnd 7: about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) per side
- After Rnd 8: about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) per side
- After Rnd 9: 7 in (17.8 cm) per side, after blocking
If your motif is too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it is too small, go up 0.5 mm. Even 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of error per motif adds up to 3 in (7.6 cm) over the 12 motifs of panel length.
Star Motif (Make 24 per Panel)
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), then work (dc, ch 1) 9 times into the ring. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4.
(10 dc, 10 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 2: Sl st into the first ch-1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 2 dc in the same sp. Work 3 dc in each remaining ch-1 sp. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.
(30 dc)
The ch-1 sps from Rnd 1 stay visible as the eyelet ring at the center of the star.
Rnd 3 (star points): Ch 6. Working back down the chain, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, and tr in each of the next 2 ch. Skip the next 5 dc of Rnd 2, then sl st in the next dc. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. The last sl st lands in the joining stitch.
(5 points)
Each point sits on a base of 6 stitches. The skipped chain at the top of each point is its tip, and each sl st between points is a valley.
Rnd 4: Sl st in the free loops of the first 5 ch of the first point, then sl st into its tip ch. Ch 1. Sc in the tip, then ch 7. Repeat from * to * 4 more times, placing each sc in the tip of the next point. Join to the first sc.
(5 sc + 35 ch = 40 sts)
The chain loops pass behind the valleys and outline a pentagon.
Rnd 5 (squaring): Ch 4 (counts as tr), then (ch 3, tr) in the same sc. This is the first Corner. Work the next 9 sts, one in each st/ch, as follows: dc, hdc, sc 5 times, hdc, dc. Work a Corner in the next st, then work dc, hdc, sc 5 times, hdc, dc over the next 9 sts. Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Join to the top of the beginning ch-4.
(44 sts: 8 tr + 36 shaping sts; 4 ch-3 corner sps; 11 sts per side between corner sps)
The Corners fall on stitches 1, 11, 21, and 31 of the 40. The shorter stitches in the middle of each side pull the curved pentagon into a straight edge.
Rnd 6: Sl st into the first corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp. Dc in each of the next 11 sts, then (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner sp. Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Dc in each of the last 11 sts and join.
(60 dc, 15 dc per side; 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Rnd 7: Sl st into the corner sp. Ch 6 (counts as dc + ch 3), then dc in the same sp. Dc in the next dc, then (ch 1, skip 1, dc in the next dc) 7 times. Work (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next corner sp. Repeat from * to * around, leaving out the last corner (it was already made at the start). Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-6.
(17 sts per side: 2 corner dc + 8 dc + 7 ch; 68 sts in total; 4 ch-3 corner sps)
Rnd 8 (diamond mesh): Sl st into the corner sp. Ch 1, then work (sc, ch 3, sc) in the same sp. Ch 4, then sc in the first ch-1 sp. Work (ch 4, skip the next ch-1 sp, sc in the next ch-1 sp) 3 times. Ch 4, then work (sc, ch 3, sc) in the next corner sp. Repeat from * to * around, leaving out the last corner. Join.
(24 sc, 20 ch-4 loops (5 per side), 4 ch-3 corner sps)
Rnd 9 (edge): Sl st into the corner sp. Ch 1, then work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same sp. Sc in the next sc, then 4 sc in the next ch-4 loop. Work (sc in the next sc, 4 sc in the next ch-4 loop) 4 times. Sc in the next sc, then work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next corner sp. Repeat from * to * around, leaving out the last corner. Join and fasten off.
Count per side: 1 corner sc + 1 + 20 loop sc + 4 + 1 + 1 corner sc = 28 sc. That makes 112 sc in total, plus 4 ch-2 corner sps.
At 4 sc per inch, 28 sts = 7 in (17.8 cm). Weave in the ends and block the motif to 7 in (17.8 cm) square.
Make All Pieces
- Color A, Royal Blue: 24 motifs (1 panel)
- Color B, Cream: 24 motifs (1 panel)
Layout for each panel, 2 columns by 12 rows (M = motif):
Row 1: M M <- top (tabs)
Row 2: M M
Row 3: M M
Row 4: M M
Row 5: M M
Row 6: M M
Row 7: M M
Row 8: M M
Row 9: M M
Row 10: M M
Row 11: M M
Row 12: M M <- bottom (scallops)
Block all the motifs before you join them so the edges line up stitch for stitch.
Joining
Method: Slip-stitch join through the BLO, worked on the WS so that a neat ridge forms on the back.
- Make the columns. Place 2 motifs RS together. Sl st through both corner ch-2 sps. Then sl st through the BLO of each matching pair of sc, 28 pairs in all, and finish in the next pair of corner sps. Add motifs this way until a column has 12 motifs and 11 seams. Make 2 columns.
- Join the columns. Place the 2 columns RS together and work one long seam. Join 28 pairs of sc per motif, which is 336 pairs in total. At every horizontal seam, sl st through the joined corner sps to lock the intersection.
Logic: Every seam joins one stitch to one stitch. No stitches are added or skipped.
Tension: Keep the sl sts as loose as the sc. A tight join will pucker the lace, so go up one hook size for joining if needed.
Checkpoint: The joined panel should measure 14 in x 84 in (35.6 cm x 213.4 cm) when lightly stretched flat.
Border
Border gauge: 4 sts per inch, the same as the motif edge. The border adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on each side and on the top.
Rnd 1 (sc): Join yarn in any outer corner ch-2 sp of the panel. Ch 1 and work (sc, ch 2, sc) in that sp. Sc in each sc around. At each seam, skip the joined corner sps, because they are closed by the joining sl st. In each of the other 3 outer corner sps, work (sc, ch 2, sc). Join.
- Top and bottom: 56 (2 motifs x 28) + 2 corner sc = 58 sc
- Long sides: 336 (12 motifs x 28) + 2 corner sc = 338 sc
- Total: 792 sc, plus 4 ch-2 corner sps
Rnd 2 (hdc): Sl st into the corner sp. Ch 2 (does not count as a st), then work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the same sp. Hdc in each st around, working (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in each corner sp. Join.
- Top and bottom: 58 + 2 = 60 hdc
- Long sides: 338 + 2 = 340 hdc
- Total: 800 hdc
Rnd 3 (scallops, bottom edge only): With the RS facing, join yarn in the bottom-right corner sp. Sc in that sp. Skip 2 hdc, work 7 dc in the next hdc, skip 2 hdc, sc in the next hdc. Repeat from * to * 9 more times, so that the last sc lands in the 60th hdc. Sc in the corner sp and fasten off.
(10 scallops: 70 dc + 12 sc = 82 sts)
Tabs (make 5 along the top edge): With the RS facing, number the 60 top hdc from right to left. Tabs sit on hdc 1–6, 14–19, 28–33, 42–47, and 55–60. The gaps between them are 7, 8, 8, and 7 sts, so 30 tab sts + 30 gap sts = 60.
For each tab:
– Row 1: Join yarn in the first st of the tab. Ch 1, then sc in each of the 6 sts. Turn. (6 sc)
– Rows 2–20: Ch 1, sc in each st across, and turn. (6 sc)
Each tab is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide and 5 in (12.7 cm) long. Fold the tab to the WS and whipstitch Row 20 to the back of Border Rnd 1. This makes a loop about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall, which fits a rod up to 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.
Why the math works: Each panel side starts from motifs × 28. Each border round adds exactly 1 st at each end of each side. The final 60 sts divide into 10 scallops of 6 sts, and they also divide into 5 tabs of 6 sts plus 30 gap sts. Width: 56 sts ÷ 4 = 14 in, plus 0.5 in of border on each side, gives 15 in (38.1 cm).
Final Blocking
- Soak the panel in cool water for 15 minutes, then press the water out gently. Do not wring it.
- Roll it in towels to remove excess moisture.
- Lay it flat on mats, working in sections if needed.
- Pin the long edges straight at 15 in (38.1 cm) apart.
- Pin each motif corner so the grid is square.
- Pin each scallop into an even curve, about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) deep.
- Open each star point and mesh diamond with your fingertips.
- Leave it to dry completely before unpinning.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each motif measures 7 in (17.8 cm) and has 28 sc per side.
- All 5 star points are evenly shaped and centered.
- Seams lie flat and the corner intersections are locked.
- The panel measures 14 in x 84 in (35.6 cm x 213.4 cm) before the border.
- Border counts are 60 / 340 hdc.
- There are 10 even scallops along the bottom.
- There are 5 tabs, evenly spaced and securely sewn.
- All ends are woven in along the solid stitches.
Troubleshooting
- The star is lopsided: Recount the 5 skipped dc in Rnd 3 for every point.
- The motif cups: Loosen the chain loops in Rnd 4, or go up a hook size for Rnds 4–5.
- The motif ruffles: Your chains are too loose. Go down a hook size for Rnds 7–8.
- The sides are not straight after Rnd 5: Check that the shaping order is dc, hdc, 5 sc, hdc, dc.
- The panel is too short: Block the motifs a little larger, or add a 13th row of motifs.
- The scallops come out uneven: Recount the top edge to 60 hdc before you start Rnd 3.
- The tabs twist: Sew them down with even tension, keeping the tab straight.
Care
Hand wash cool or machine wash on a gentle cycle inside a mesh bag. Then lay the panels flat and reshape them while damp. Avoid long tumble drying, because the lace may stretch.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. One 7 in (17.8 cm) motif with 28 sts per side becomes a 14 in x 84 in (35.6 cm x 213.4 cm) grid. Two border rounds bring the width to 15 in (38.1 cm), the scallops finish the hem, and the tabs hang the panel.
If your first motif blocks to the right size, the rest of the panel will follow. Enjoy watching your stars catch the light.
Happy crocheting!