Finn is a hanging plastic bag holder shaped like a cheerful fish. He has a solid dark teal cone head, a stretchy cream fishnet body, teal fins edged in burnt orange, a round cream eye on each side and puffy orange lips. Hang him from a hook by his crocheted ring, fill him with grocery bags, and pull them out one at a time through the opening between his tail fins.
The palette is dark teal, cream, burnt orange and a little black. The look is cozy farmhouse kitchen: chunky worsted cotton, crisp single crochet on the head and fins, and an open diamond mesh that shows off the bags inside.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished fish measures about 25 in (63.5 cm) from the top of the ring to the tips of the tail fins. The head base and body are about 8 in (20.3 cm) wide laid flat.
Construction is simple. You crochet the head from the tip down in a spiral, then join cream and work the mesh body straight down from the last head round, narrowing it into a teal opening band. The fins, eyes, lips and ring are made separately and sewn on.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished length: about 25 in (63.5 cm), ring top to tail tips
- Width: 8 in (20.3 cm) flat at the head base
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: one finished item made of 9 components: head plus body (one piece), 2 side fins, 2 tail fins, 2 eyes, 1 lips, 1 hanging ring
- Layout: vertical fish, ring at top, tail at bottom
- Head size: 6.75 in (17.1 cm) tall, 16 in (40.6 cm) around the base
- Body size: about 11 in (27.9 cm) long, relaxed
- Fin size before edging: side fins about 4 in (10.2 cm) long, tail fins about 6 in (15.2 cm) long
- Fin edging depth: 1 round of orange sc, about 0.125 in (0.3 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the cone shape and the mesh without sagging. The quantities below assume about 1.6 m per gram, which is typical for worsted cotton.
- Dark teal (A): 80 g / 128 m (head, fins, bottom band, ring cover)
- Cream (B): 70 g / 112 m (mesh body, eye rings)
- Burnt orange (C): 15 g / 24 m (lips, fin edging)
- Black (D): 3 g / 5 m (eye centers)
All quantities include a margin of about 15 percent.
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) hook
- Plastic or wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
- Tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Scissors and a tape measure
- Small amount of fiberfill (optional, for the lips)
- Pins
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – mesh loop: ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp. Shorter versions (ch 4 or ch 3) are written out where they are used.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round.
Make a test swatch, or work the head through Round 11 and check it before going on. Each later stage has its own checkpoint:
- Head, Round 22 (64 sts): 16 in (40.6 cm) around, 8 in (20.3 cm) flat.
- Head, Round 30: 6.75 in (17.1 cm) tall from the tip.
- Body, Round 12: each mesh round adds about 0.7 in (1.8 cm). Rounds 2 to 12 together measure about 7.7 in (19.6 cm).
- Body, Round 17 (48 sts): 6 in (15.2 cm) flat.
- Body, finished: about 11 in (27.9 cm) from the color change.
If your head is too big, go down half a hook size. If it is too small, go up half a size. Mesh rounds that come out too long can be fixed by tightening your chains. If they come out too short, loosen them. Don’t change the loop counts.
Head (Make 1)
With A, work in a continuous spiral. Mark the first stitch of each round.
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
- Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6)
- Rnd 3: Inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 4: Sc around. (12)
- Rnd 5: [Sc 1, inc] x 6. (18)
- Rnd 6: Sc around. (18)
- Rnd 7: [Sc 2, inc] x 6. (24)
- Rnd 8: Sc around. (24)
- Rnd 9: [Sc 3, inc] x 6. (30)
- Rnd 10: Sc around. (30)
- Rnd 11: [Sc 4, inc] x 6. (36)
- Rnd 12: Sc around. (36)
- Rnd 13: [Sc 5, inc] x 6. (42)
- Rnd 14: Sc around. (42)
- Rnd 15: [Sc 6, inc] x 6. (48)
- Rnd 16: Sc around. (48)
- Rnd 17: [Sc 7, inc] x 6. (54)
- Rnd 18: Sc around. (54)
- Rnd 19: [Sc 8, inc] x 6. (60)
- Rnds 20–21: Sc around. (60)
- Rnd 22: [Sc 14, inc] x 4. (64)
- Rnds 23–30: Sc around. (64)
To keep the cone round instead of six-sided, move the increase in each repeat over by one stitch every increase round. Sl st into the next st to level the spiral. Fasten off A, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Mesh Body (Worked from the Head)
Join B in the last st of Round 30. Keep working in a spiral.
- Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (64)
- Rnd 2: Sc in first st, ch 5, skip 3 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ending ch 5, skip 3. (64 ÷ 4 = 16 ch-5 loops)
- Rnds 3–12: Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep around. (16 loops)
- Rnds 13–14: Ch 4, sc in next sp; rep around. (16 ch-4 loops)
- Rnds 15–16: Ch 3, sc in next sp; rep around. (16 ch-3 loops)
As the chains get shorter, the body tapers toward the tail.
- Rnd 17 (conversion round): 3 sc in each ch-3 sp around. This gives 16 loops x 3 sc = 48 sts. Sl st into the next st to level the spiral. (48)
Change to A.
- Rnd 18: [Sc 2, sc2tog] x 12. (36)
- Rnds 19–20: Sc around. (36)
Sl st into the next st and fasten off. The opening is 9 in (22.9 cm) around, or about 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across. That is wide enough to pull bags through and small enough to hold them in. Load bags by pushing them up through this opening.
Side Fins (Make 2)
With A:
Rnd 1: Ch 16. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 6 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next ch. That is 14 sts along Side A. Work 3 sc in the last ch (tip). Then, working along the other side of the chain, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 6 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next ch. That is 13 sts along Side B. Work 2 sc in the same ch as the first sc (base). Join with a sl st.
Count: 14 + 3 + 13 + 2 = 32 sts. The fin is a pointed leaf shape, about 4 in (10.2 cm) long and 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide.
Fasten off A. The orange edging is worked in the Border section.
Tail Fins (Make 2)
With A:
Rnd 1: Ch 22. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 4 ch, dc in next 10 ch, hdc in next 4 ch, sc in next ch. That is 20 sts along Side A. Work 3 sc in the last ch (tip). Along the other side, hdc in next 4, dc in next 10, hdc in next 4, sc in next ch. That is 19 sts along Side B. Work 2 sc in the same ch as the first sc (base). Join.
Count: 20 + 3 + 19 + 2 = 44 sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st, but work 3 sc in the center sc of the tip and inc in both base sts. Join.
Count: 44 worked once each, plus 4 extra = 48 sts (Side A 20, tip 5, Side B 19, base 4). Each tail fin is about 6 in (15.2 cm) long and 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide.
Fasten off A.
Eyes (Make 2)
- Rnd 1: With D, 6 sc in a magic ring. Join with a sl st. (6) Fasten off D.
- Rnd 2: Join B. Inc in each st. (12)
- Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] x 6. Join. (18)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Each eye is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across.
Lips (Make 1)
With C:
- Rnd 1: Ch 8. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 ch (6 sts). Work 3 sc in the last ch. Along the other side, sc in next 5 ch, then 2 sc in the first ch. Join. (6 + 3 + 5 + 2 = 16)
- Rnd 2: Ch 1. Sc around, with an inc in each of the 3 tip sts and in each of the 3 sts at the starting end (the first sc plus the 2 base sc). Join. (16 + 6 = 22)
Fasten off with a long tail. Fold the oval in half lengthwise and whipstitch the edges together. This makes a puffy lip shape, about 2 in (5.1 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) deep. Add a pinch of fiberfill if you like.
Hanging Ring (Make 1)
With A, join the yarn around the plastic ring. Work sc around the ring, packing the stitches tightly, until it is completely covered. This takes about 60 sc. Join and fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
Make All Pieces
Component checklist by color:
- A only: head, ring cover, bottom band (worked onto the body)
- A + C: 2 side fins, 2 tail fins (C is added in the Border section)
- B: mesh body
- D + B: 2 eyes
- C: 1 lips
Layout, top to bottom:
[ RING ]
[ TEAL HEAD: eye | lips | eye ]
[ side fin | CREAM MESH BODY | side fin ]
[ TEAL OPENING BAND ]
[ tail fin | opening | tail fin ]
Joining and Assembly
Use whipstitch with the matching yarn tail and sew through both loops of each edge stitch. Pull each stitch snug but not tight. You want the teal pieces to lie flat on the head without puckering.
- Ring: Center the covered ring over the head tip and sew 4 to 5 ring stitches to Rounds 1 and 2. The ring should stand upright.
- Eyes: Pin one eye on each side of the head between Rounds 19 and 24, with their centers about 8 in (20.3 cm) apart measured around the head. Sew around the outer edge.
- Lips: Pin the folded lips on the front between the eyes, at Rounds 23 to 27, with the fold pointing outward. Sew along the folded edge only so the lip edge stays free.
- Side fins: Sew the base end (4 sts) of each fin to the head-to-body seam, one fin directly below each eye. Angle the tips down and outward.
- Tail fins: Sew the base end (6 sts) of each tail fin to Rounds 18 to 20 of the teal band, one on each side, leaving the opening clear. The tips should splay out in a V.
Size checkpoint: Hang the fish. It should measure about 25 in (63.5 cm) from the top of the ring to the tail tips.
Border (Orange Fin Edging)
Work the edging before you sew the fins on (steps 4 and 5 above).
Border gauge: one round of sc in C adds about 0.125 in (0.3 cm) to every edge.
Side fins, Rnd 2: Join C in any Side A stitch. Sc in each st, but work 3 sc in the center sc of the tip and inc in both base sts. Join and fasten off.
Count: Side A 14, tip 5, Side B 13, base 4 = 36 sts. That is 32 stitches worked once each plus 4 extra.
Tail fins, Rnd 3: Join C. Sc in each st, but work 3 sc in the center st of the 5-st tip and inc in the 2 middle sts of the 4-st base. Join and fasten off.
Count: Side A 20, tip 7, Side B 19, base 6 = 52 sts. That is 48 worked once each plus 4 extra.
Why the math works: The long sides are worked one stitch into each stitch, so they keep the same length and don’t ruffle or cup. All the extra stitches go at the two curved ends. At the tip, a 3-sc group keeps the point sharp. At the base, two increases spread the rounded end just enough to lie flat.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the whole fish with water.
- Stuff the head firmly with a rolled towel to set the cone shape.
- Lay the fins flat and pin their tips into points.
- Hang the fish from a hook. Gently pull the mesh downward so the diamonds open evenly.
- Let it dry completely, about 12 hours, then remove the towel.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Head is 6.75 in (17.1 cm) tall and 64 sts at the base
- Mesh has 16 loops in every round, with no twisted diamonds
- Opening band has 36 sts and is 9 in (22.9 cm) around
- Side fins have 36 sts and tail fins have 52 sts
- Eyes sit level with each other and the lips are centered
- Ring is secure and upright
- All tails are woven in at least 2 in (5.1 cm)
Troubleshooting
- The cone looks hexagonal: stagger the increases from round to round.
- The mesh is twisting: you have skipped or doubled a loop. Count 16 loops and use a marker.
- The body is too short: add one more ch-5 round before Round 13.
- The fins ruffle: you have added extra stitches along the sides. Work exactly one sc in each side stitch.
- The fins cup: add one more increase at the base end only.
- Bags fall out: work one extra round in A of [sc 4, sc2tog] x 6 to bring the opening down to 30 sts.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, reshape and dry flat. Re-hang only once the fish is completely dry.
Final Notes
Everything depends on gauge. 16 sc to 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 64-stitch head that is 8 in (20.3 cm) wide. Those 64 stitches become 16 mesh loops, the shorter chains taper the body, the 48-stitch conversion round turns into a 36-stitch opening, and the fins, eyes, lips and ring finish a fish about 25 in (63.5 cm) long. Check each stage as you go and the final fish will match.
Happy crocheting!