Terracotta Spiral Trio Hanging Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

This hanging holder stores three spare rolls in a neat vertical stack. Each pocket is a pointed cone covered in diagonal raised ribs that spiral up toward a firm, rolled rim. Two narrow side straps link the pockets, and a tapered panel at the top wraps around a natural wooden ring so the holder hangs from a single hook.

The sample is worked in one warm terracotta (rust-orange) shade. One solid color shows off the slanted ribs best, and the look sits well with natural wood, brass fittings and cream bathroom tiles.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 7.7 in (19.6 cm) wide at the rims and 24.25 in (61.6 cm) long from the top of the ring to the tip of the bottom pocket. Each pocket fits a standard roll up to about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) in diameter.

Construction is simple. You crochet three identical cone pockets from the tip up, add a rim to each, and crochet two flat straps and one tapered hanging panel. Then you sew everything together, with the tab of the panel folded around the ring.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished size: 7.7 in (19.6 cm) wide x 24.25 in (61.6 cm) long, ring included
• Skill level: Intermediate (front post stitches, working in spiral rounds, seaming)
• Terminology: US
• Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
• Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
• Number of pieces: 6 crocheted pieces (3 pockets, 2 straps, 1 hanging panel) plus 1 wooden ring
• Layout: 1 column of 3 pockets, straps on both sides, panel on top
• Piece size (one pocket): 7.25 in (18.4 cm) tall; rim 14 in (35.6 cm) around, 7 in (17.8 cm) wide laid flat
• Pocket size before border: 6.75 in (17.1 cm) tall; top edge 16 in (40.6 cm) around
• Border (rim) depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm)

Materials

Yarn: Use a worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the cone shape, resists stretching under the weight of the rolls, and copes with bathroom humidity. Acrylic works too, but the pockets will be softer and may sag a little.

• Terracotta: about 230 g / 390 m (427 yd)

Tools:

• 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
• 1 wooden ring, about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) outer diameter
• 4 locking stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Pins or clips for seaming

The yarn amount includes a margin of roughly 15% for your gauge swatch and small tension differences. Each pocket uses about 50 g, each strap about 8 g, and the panel about 12 g.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
• BLO – back loop only
• MR – magic ring
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• rnd(s) – round(s)
• FPhdc – front post half double crochet

Special stitch – FPhdc: Yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook. Do not also work into the top of that stitch. One FPhdc counts as 1 stitch.

Special technique – Slant Rule: Every FPhdc in the previous round is an “old rib.” Work across the round like this: hdc in the top of each old rib; work an FPhdc around the stitch right after each old rib; hdc in every other stitch. Each rib moves one stitch to the left every round, which builds the diagonal spiral lines. On increase rounds, work 2 hdc in the top of each old rib instead of 1.

Gauge and Checkpoints

• Rib pattern (hdc and FPhdc, in rounds): 14 sts and 10 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
• Single crochet (rows or rounds): 16 sts and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)

Make one complete pocket before you start the others. It is your gauge swatch, and it tells you straight away whether a roll will fit.

Checkpoints for one pocket:

• After Rnd 8 (40 sts): circumference about 11.4 in (29.0 cm)
• After Rnd 12 (56 sts): circumference about 16 in (40.6 cm)
• After Rnd 18: height about 6.75 in (17.1 cm), measured up the side from the tip
• After the border: rim 14 in (35.6 cm) around; pocket height 7.25 in (18.4 cm)

If your pocket is too big, change to a 4.5 mm (US 7) hook. If it is too small and a roll won’t sit inside, change to a 5.5 mm (US I-9) hook. Keep the stitch counts the same and fix size with the hook only.

Cone Pocket (Make 3)

Work in a continuous spiral. Do not join rounds. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.

Rnd 1: MR, 8 sc in ring. (8 sts)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16 sts)

Rnd 3 (rib set-up): *FPhdc around next st, hdc in next st; rep from * 7 more times. (16 sts: 8 FPhdc + 8 hdc)

You now have 8 ribs. From here on, follow the Slant Rule.

Rnd 4 (increase): Work the Slant Rule with 2 hdc in the top of each old rib. Each repeat is 2 hdc in old rib, FPhdc around next st. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Work the Slant Rule with no increases. Each repeat is hdc in old rib, FPhdc around next st, hdc in next st. (24 sts)

Rnd 6 (increase): Slant Rule with 2 hdc in each old rib. (32 sts)

Rnd 7: Slant Rule. (32 sts)

Rnd 8 (increase): Slant Rule with 2 hdc in each old rib. (40 sts)

Rnd 9: Slant Rule. (40 sts)

Rnd 10 (increase): Slant Rule with 2 hdc in each old rib. (48 sts)

Rnd 11: Slant Rule. (48 sts)

Rnd 12 (increase): Slant Rule with 2 hdc in each old rib. (56 sts)

Each of the 8 repeats now has 7 sts: 1 FPhdc and 6 hdc.

Rnds 13–18: Slant Rule. (56 sts in each round)

These six straight rounds form the upper, nearly cylindrical part of the pocket that holds the roll. Don’t fasten off. Go straight on to the border below.

Why the shape works: You add 8 sts on every other round from Rnd 4 to Rnd 12, which grows the circumference slowly and makes a long, pointed cone instead of a flat base. The ribs travel one stitch per round, so over 16 rib rounds each rib twists about a third of the way around the pocket.

Side Straps (Make 2)

Row 1: Ch 49, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (48 sts)

Rows 2–3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (48 sts)

Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing.

Each strap measures 12 in (30.5 cm) long and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) wide. Mark sts 1–2, 24–25 and 47–48 of Row 3 on both straps. These are the attachment points for the pockets.

Hanging Panel (Make 1)

The panel is worked flat from the bottom edge up to the tab.

Row 1: Ch 29, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (28 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (26 sts)

Rows 3–11: Repeat Row 2. You lose 2 sts per row: 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8. (8 sts after Row 11)

Rows 12–23: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8 sts in each row)

Fasten off and leave a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail.

The tapered part (Rows 1–11) is about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall and 7 in (17.8 cm) wide at the bottom. The tab (Rows 12–23) is 2 in (5.1 cm) wide and 2.7 in (6.9 cm) long.

Make All Pieces

All pieces use terracotta.

• Cone pockets: 3 (about 50 g each, 150 g total)
• Side straps: 2 (about 8 g each, 16 g total)
• Hanging panel: 1 (about 12 g)

Layout grid (front view, top to bottom):

          [ Wooden ring ]
          [ Panel tab   ]
     [   Tapered panel     ]
 S | [ Pocket 1 rim        ] | S
 T |   Pocket 1 cone         | T
 R | [ Pocket 2 rim        ] | R
 A |   Pocket 2 cone         | A
 P | [ Pocket 3 rim        ] | P
         Pocket 3 cone
             (tip)

Joining

Method: Whipstitch with the tapestry needle and the matching yarn tails.

1. Panel to Pocket 1. Flatten Pocket 1 so the rim folds at the marker. The front half of the rim is sts 1–28 and the back half is sts 29–56. Line the 28 foundation loops on Row 1 of the panel up with the 28 back-half rim stitches, one to one. Whipstitch through the panel loop and the back loop of the rim stitch each time. The panel then rises from the back of the pocket, and the front of the rim stays open.

2. Ring. Push the tab from front to back through the wooden ring. Fold Rows 18–23 down behind Rows 12–17 and whipstitch the 8 sts of Row 23 to the 8 sts of Row 12 on the wrong side.

3. Straps. Lay the pockets in a column with their rims facing front. On each side, put strap sts 1–2 over the fold point of Pocket 1’s rim and the matching bottom corner of the panel, and sew them through all layers. Then sew strap sts 24–25 to a fold point of Pocket 2’s rim, and strap sts 47–48 to a fold point of Pocket 3’s rim. Rims sit 23 sts apart on the strap, which is about 5.75 in (14.6 cm).

Tension: Pull every stitch just snug. Pulling too tight puckers the rim. Leaving it loose lets the pockets tip forward once they are full.

Size checkpoint: Hang the holder empty. It should measure 7.7 in (19.6 cm) across the rims and 24.25 in (61.6 cm) from ring top to bottom tip. Each pocket tip dips about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) into the opening of the pocket below and rests on the roll it holds.

Border (Pocket Rim)

Each pocket gets a rim, worked straight on from Rnd 18 before you fasten off.

Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), so 56 sc = 14 in (35.6 cm).

Rnd 19 (conversion round): Sc in each st around: 56 sts worked one per existing stitch + 0 added. (56 sts: 28 front, 28 back)

Rnd 20: Sc in each st around. (56 sts: 28 front, 28 back)

Rnd 21: Sl st in BLO of each st around. (56 sts: 28 front, 28 back) Join to the first sl st with a sl st. Fasten off and weave in the end.

Why the math works: At rib gauge, 56 sts measure 16 in (40.6 cm) around. At sc gauge, the same 56 sts measure 14 in (35.6 cm). The rim therefore pulls in by 2 in (5.1 cm) without any decreases. That gentle draw-in rolls the edge, hugs the roll, and keeps the opening round. A flattened rim is 14 ÷ 2 = 7 in (17.8 cm) wide, which matches the panel’s 28-st bottom edge (28 ÷ 16 x 4 = 7 in). That is why the joining in step 1 goes exactly one stitch to one stitch. The BLO slip stitches leave a neat chain ridge along the top edge.

Final Blocking

1. Weave in all remaining ends along the inside seams.
2. Mist the holder lightly with water until it is damp, not soaked.
3. Push a toilet roll, or a rolled towel of the same size, into each pocket to support the cone.
4. Shape each tip into a neat, centered point with your fingers.
5. Lay the holder flat with the straps straight. Pin the straps to 12 in (30.5 cm) long and the rims to 7 in (17.8 cm) wide.
6. Let it dry completely, then take out the forms.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• Each pocket has 56 sts at Rnd 18 and 8 ribs that spiral evenly.
• Every rim is 14 in (35.6 cm) around and 7 in (17.8 cm) wide when flat.
• Each strap is 48 sts, 12 in (30.5 cm) long.
• The panel goes from 28 sts down to 8 sts, and the tab is closed securely around the ring.
• Strap attachment points line up at sts 1–2, 24–25 and 47–48 on both sides.
• The holder hangs straight, with no twist, at 24.25 in (61.6 cm) long.
• All ends are woven in and nothing shows on the right side.

Troubleshooting

Ribs run straight up instead of slanting: You worked the FPhdc around the old rib itself. Work it around the stitch just after the old rib.

Stitch count grows on plain rounds: You put 2 hdc in an old rib by mistake. Count to 8 ribs and check each repeat.

Pocket tip is blunt or has a hole: Pull the magic ring closed tightly and weave the tail through Rnd 1 twice.

Roll will not fit: Your rib gauge is tight. Remake the pocket with a 5.5 mm (US I-9) hook.

Rim flares out: Your sc rounds are too loose. Work Rnds 19–21 with a 4.5 mm (US 7) hook.

Holder leans forward: The pockets are too heavy for loose seams. Re-sew the strap attachment points more firmly and add a second pass of whipstitch through the panel seam.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat with forms in the pockets. Don’t tumble dry, because the cones may lose their shape.

Final Notes

The measurement chain is short and easy to check. Rib gauge of 14 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 56-st pocket edge of 16 in (40.6 cm). The sc rim pulls that edge in to 14 in (35.6 cm), which is 7 in (17.8 cm) flat and matches the 28-st panel exactly. Straps of 48 sts at 12 in (30.5 cm) put the rims 5.75 in (14.6 cm) apart. Together they give a finished holder of 7.7 in (19.6 cm) x 24.25 in (61.6 cm). Check each stage as you go and the final holder will hang straight and hold its rolls securely.

Happy crocheting!