This hanging holder stores three spare rolls in a neat vertical stack. Three round-bellied baskets hang one above the other on two corded straps that loop over a short wooden dowel, so it takes up almost no wall space.
The look is warm and a little rustic. The baskets use golden mustard bulky yarn in a dense, pebbly single crochet. Each front has a cream tulip with two sage green leaves, which suits a bathroom with plants and wood.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide, 4 in (10.2 cm) deep, and 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall. The finished holder hangs about 21 in (53.3 cm) from the top of the dowel to the bottom of the lowest basket.
You work three oval baskets in continuous rounds from the base up and finish each one with a rolled rim. Then you make two flat straps, sew on the tulip appliqués, whipstitch the straps down the sides of the baskets, and fold the strap tops over a dowel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 21 in (53.3 cm) long including the dowel; the dowel is 10 in (25.4 cm) wide
- Skill level: Easy / Advanced Beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5)
- Hook: 6 mm (J-10) for baskets and straps; 5 mm (H-8) for appliqués
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 2 straps, 3 tulips, 3 stems, 6 leaves
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets, stacked vertically
- Piece size (one basket): 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide x 4 in (10.2 cm) deep x 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall
- Size before border: 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall after Round 19
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) rolled rim (2 rounds)
Materials
Pick a smooth, firm bulky yarn in cotton, a cotton blend, or acrylic. A firm yarn keeps the baskets open so they don’t sag under the rolls. The amounts below assume about 120 m per 100 g.
- Golden mustard (MC): 300 g, about 360 m, for baskets and straps
- Cream (CC1): 25 g, about 30 m, for tulips
- Sage green (CC2): 25 g, about 30 m, for stems and leaves
All amounts include a margin of about 15% for your gauge swatch and differences in tension.
Tools:
- 6 mm (J-10) crochet hook
- 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Wooden dowel, 10 in (25.4 cm) long, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) diameter
- Locking stitch markers (at least 6)
- Large-eye tapestry needle
- Scissors and measuring tape
- Sewing pins
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- MR – magic ring
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitches:
- Picot: Ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook. This makes a small pointed tip on top of a petal.
- Rev sc: Work from left to right (if you crochet right-handed). Insert the hook in the next st to the right, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops. This makes a corded, rolled edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 11 sc and 12 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round with a 6 mm hook. This is tight for bulky yarn on purpose, because a stiff wall holds its shape.
Make one whole basket before you start the others, and use it as your full-size gauge swatch. Check these points:
- After Round 6 (base): the oval is about 6.25 in (15.9 cm) long x 4 in (10.2 cm) wide
- After Round 19 (body): about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall from the base edge
- After Round 21 (rim): about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall. A roll lying on its side should slide in with its top third showing.
- Strap: 64 sts measure about 23.25 in (59.1 cm)
If the base comes out too large, go down a hook size. If it’s too small, or a roll won’t fit, go up a hook size. Change the hook, not the stitch counts, because the strap length is based on the basket height.
Basket (Make 3)
Use MC and a 6 mm hook. Work in continuous spiral rounds and move a stitch marker up to the first stitch of each round.
Oval Base
Foundation: Ch 9.
Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate and work along the other side of the chain: sc in next 6 ch, 2 sc in the same ch as the first sc. (18 sts: 6 along each side + 3 at each end)
Round 2: Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts. (24 sts)
Round 3: Sc in next 6 sts, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 sts, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. (30 sts)
Round 4: Sc in next 6 sts, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 sts, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. (36 sts)
Round 5: Sc in next 6 sts, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 sts, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. (42 sts)
Round 6: Sc in next 6 sts, [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 sts, [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. (48 sts)
In every round, all 6 increases go into the curved ends. The straight sides stay at 6 sts, which keeps the base oval.
Body
Round 7: Working in BLO, sc in each st around. (48 sts) The unused front loops make a crisp ridge where the base turns up into the wall.
Rounds 8–9: Sc in each st around. (48 sts)
Round 10: [Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (54 sts)
Rounds 11–14: Sc in each st around. (54 sts) These rounds form the belly.
Round 15: [Sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (48 sts)
Rounds 16–19: Sc in each st around. (48 sts)
The basket should be about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall from the base ridge. Don’t fasten off. Go straight on to the rim in the Border section.
Tulip Appliqué
Tulip (Make 3)
Use CC1 and a 5 mm hook.
Round 1: MR, 8 sc in ring, pull ring closed. (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16 sts)
Round 3 (petals): Sl st in next st (st 1).
Left petal: (sc, hdc) in st 2, (dc, picot, dc) in st 3, (hdc, sc) in st 4.
Sl st in st 5.
Center petal: (dc, tr) in st 6, (tr, picot, tr) in st 7, (tr, dc) in st 8.
Sl st in st 9.
Right petal: (sc, hdc) in st 10, (dc, picot, dc) in st 11, (hdc, sc) in st 12.
Sl st in st 13, sc in sts 14–16, sl st in first sl st to join.
(25 sts: 4 sl sts + 6 sts per petal x 3 + 3 sc, plus 3 picots)
The sl sts pull in to make the notches between petals. The center petal is taller than the two side petals, and sts 14–16 form the rounded cup base. Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The tulip is about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide x 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall.
Stem (Make 3)
Use CC2 and a 5 mm hook. Ch 5. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook and in the next 3 ch. (4 sl sts) Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. The stem is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long.
Leaf (Make 6)
Use CC2 and a 5 mm hook. Ch 7.
Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. Ch 2 (tip). Rotate and work along the other side of the chain: sc in same last ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, ch 2 (tip), sl st in first sc. (12 sts + 2 ch-2 tips)
The foundation chain runs down the middle and forms a raised center vein. Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Each leaf is about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long x 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
Placing the Appliqué
Flatten each basket so the long sides of the oval become the front and back. Put a folded towel inside so you don’t sew through to the back. Layer the pieces in this order:
- Stem: Center the stem upright on the front, with its bottom end 0.75 in (1.9 cm) above the base ridge.
- Leaves: Put one leaf on each side of the stem base, angled up and outward at about 45 degrees. Tuck the inner tip of each leaf under the bottom of the stem.
- Tulip: Lay the cup base over the top 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of the stem, with the petals pointing up.
Pin everything in place. Sew around the outer edge of each piece with small whipstitches through the basket’s front loops only. Weave in all the tails on the inside.
Make All Pieces
- MC (golden mustard): 3 baskets and 2 straps
- CC1 (cream): 3 tulips
- CC2 (sage green): 3 stems and 6 leaves
Strap (Make 2)
Use MC and a 6 mm hook. Ch 65.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (64 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st in each st across. (64 sl sts)
Fasten off. The strap is about 23.25 in (59.1 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. The sl st row keeps the strap from stretching under the weight of the rolls.
Starting from the top end, mark these sections on the strap:
- Sts 1–8: dowel wrap, 2.9 in (7.4 cm)
- Sts 9–17: top drop, 3.3 in (8.4 cm)
- Sts 18–30: Basket 1, 13 sts, 4.75 in (12.1 cm)
- Sts 31–34: gap, 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Sts 35–47: Basket 2, 13 sts
- Sts 48–51: gap
- Sts 52–64: Basket 3, 13 sts
Check: 8 + 9 + 13 + 4 + 13 + 4 + 13 = 64 sts.
Layout Grid
========= dowel =========
| |
| [ Basket 1 ] |
| |
| [ Basket 2 ] |
| |
| [ Basket 3 ] |
Strap A Strap B
Joining
Finish the rim on all three baskets (see the Border section) before you join anything.
Mark the sides: Flatten each basket with the tulip centered on the front. Put a marker at each side fold of the rim. You should have 24 rim sts across the front and 24 across the back. The folds are where the straps go.
Method: Lay Strap A along the left fold of Basket 1, with strap st 18 at the rim and strap st 30 at the base ridge (Round 7). Using MC, whipstitch both long edges of the strap to the basket.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: The fold runs from Round 7 to Round 21, which is 15 rounds, and the strap section is 13 sts. Work one whipstitch into each basket round. At Round 10 and again at Round 15, put 2 whipstitches into the same strap st. This eases 15 rounds onto 13 sts.
Sew Strap B to the right fold the same way. Then attach Basket 2 to sts 35–47 and Basket 3 to sts 52–64.
Tension: Pull the yarn just snug enough to close the gap. If you pull too hard, the side of the basket puckers and the basket tilts forward.
Dowel: Fold sts 1–8 of each strap over the dowel to the back. Whipstitch the strap end to the back of the top drop. Space the straps about 7 in (17.8 cm) apart, centered on the dowel.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder and measure it. It should be about 21 in (53.3 cm) from the top of the dowel to the bottom of Basket 3, with 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of bare strap between baskets.
Border (Rolled Rim)
Work these two rounds on each basket right after Round 19.
Border gauge: The rim uses the same gauge as the body, 11 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm). That makes the 48-st opening 17.5 in (44.5 cm) around.
Round 20: Sc in each st around, sl st in first sc to join. (48 sts: 24 front + 24 back)
Round 21: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, sl st in first st to join. (48 sts: 24 front + 24 back)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: The opening has the same 48 sts as the base, so the walls rise straight up. The belly widens to 54 sts, about 19.6 in (49.8 cm) around. A roll lying on its side measures about 17 in (43.2 cm) around, so it slips through the 17.5 in (44.5 cm) rim and the rim still holds it. Because each side has 24 sts, the two strap lines sit exactly opposite each other.
Final Blocking
- Put a roll of toilet paper in each basket, lying on its side.
- Mist the baskets lightly with water until they are damp but not wet.
- Shape the belly and rim with your hands so the front curves evenly.
- Smooth the tulips and leaves flat against the curve.
- Lay the holder flat on a towel with the straps pulled straight to their full 23.25 in (59.1 cm).
- Let everything dry completely, then hang it on the dowel.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each basket base has 48 sts and lies flat with a clear ridge
- All three baskets are within 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of the same height
- Each rim has 24 sts across the front and 24 across the back, with an even corded edge
- Each tulip is centered and its three petal points are clearly separate
- The leaves angle up evenly and tuck under the stem
- Both straps have 64 sts and are the same length
- Both gaps between baskets are 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- The dowel hangs level
Troubleshooting
Base cups upward: Your tension got tighter at the ends. Loosen up on the increases or go up half a hook size.
Base ruffles: You have too many stitches for your tension. Make sure each straight side has 6 sts in every round.
Roll won’t fit: Your gauge is too tight. Remake the basket with a larger hook instead of adding stitches.
Basket tilts forward: The straps are sewn too far toward the front. Re-sew them on the true side folds.
Petals look blurred: Pull each picot firm, and make sure each sl st between petals goes into its own stitch.
Straps stretch: The Row 2 sl sts are too loose. Redo Row 2 with a smaller hook.
Care
Shake off dust regularly. Spot clean, or hand wash in cool water. Press the water out in a towel and dry flat, with the baskets shaped around rolls.
Final Notes
Each measurement builds on the one before it. A gauge of 11 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 6.25 in (15.9 cm) base. The body rises to 4.25 in (10.8 cm), and the rim brings each basket to 4.75 in (12.1 cm). Each 13-stitch strap section fits one basket, so the three baskets hang in a 21 in (53.3 cm) column.
Happy crocheting!