This hanging holder stacks three round baskets on two sturdy cream straps. Each basket holds one standard toilet roll and stays open at the top, so you can grab a spare roll easily. It hangs from a single peg or hook and takes up no floor space.
The color scheme is cream, raspberry pink and grass green. A row of pink puffs sits low on each wall like tulip buds, with a green puff band just above it. Next comes a band of cream puffs and then a row of pink shells that curve into scallops just under a rope-textured cream rim. The style is cottage-fresh and bright, and it’s tidy enough for a guest bathroom.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures 5¾ in (14.6 cm) across and 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall. The assembled holder is about 18 in (45.7 cm) from the apex to the bottom and about 6¼ in (15.9 cm) wide including the straps.
You’ll crochet a flat double-crochet base for each basket, turn up the wall with a back-loop round, work the color bands, and finish with a three-round rim. Then you’ll make two slip-stitch cords from doubled yarn and sew them to opposite sides of all three baskets. The cord ends overlap at the top to form the hanging point.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 18 in (45.7 cm) tall × 6¼ in (15.9 cm) wide, hanging
- Skill level: Intermediate (puffs, carrying a color, crab stitch)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hooks: 4.5 mm (US 7) for the baskets; 5.5 mm (US I-9) for the straps
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets + 2 straps)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked in 1 column, with a 1½ in (3.8 cm) gap between baskets
- Piece size: each basket 5¾ in (14.6 cm) diameter × 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall
- Size before border: wall height 2½ in (6.4 cm) after Round 13
- Border depth: ¾ in (1.9 cm), worked in Rounds 14–16
Materials
Use a smooth, firm 100% cotton or cotton blend in worsted weight. Cotton holds its shape and doesn’t fuzz in a humid bathroom. The amounts below assume a yarn of about 85 m per 50 g.
- Cream (MC): 200 g / 340 m
- Raspberry pink (CC1): 50 g / 85 m
- Grass green (CC2): 25 g / 43 m
These quantities include a margin of about 15–20% above the tested amounts, so you won’t run short on the last basket or strap.
Tools:
– 4.5 mm (US 7) and 5.5 mm (US I-9) crochet hooks
– 4 stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Tape measure
– Straight pins
– A toilet roll or a 5½ in (14.0 cm) jar for blocking
– A wall peg or hook for hanging
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- BLO: back loop only
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sk: skip
- rep: repeat
- rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitches:
- Puff: (yo, insert hook in st, pull up a loop to ½ in [1.3 cm]) 3 times, yo, pull through all 7 loops on hook.
- Big puff (bpuff): (yo, insert hook in st, pull up a loop) 4 times, yo, pull through all 9 loops on hook. Push it to the right side with a fingertip.
- Shell: 5 dc in the same st.
- Rev sc: working from left to right, insert hook in the next st to the right, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete basket before starting the others. It works as your gauge swatch and shows your yarn use.
- Base gauge: Rounds 1–3 = 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across with the 4.5 mm hook.
- Wall gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), and 18 sc rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
- Strap gauge: 3 chains = 1 in (2.5 cm) with doubled yarn and the 5.5 mm hook.
Base checkpoints:
– Round 2: 1.9 in (4.8 cm)
– Round 4: 3.8 in (9.7 cm)
– Round 5: 4.8 in (12.2 cm)
– Round 6: 5¾ in (14.6 cm)
Wall checkpoints (measured up from the fold line):
– Round 8: ½ in (1.3 cm)
– Round 11: 1¾ in (4.4 cm)
– Round 12: 2 in (5.1 cm)
– Round 13: 2½ in (6.4 cm)
– Round 16: 3¼ in (8.3 cm)
If your base is wider than the checkpoint, switch to a hook 0.5 mm smaller. If it’s narrower, or if a toilet roll won’t drop in loosely, go up 0.5 mm. If the base ruffles, your dc are too tall, so tighten the loop you pull up. If it cups, relax your tension.
Basket Base (make 3)
Use cream and the 4.5 mm hook. The beginning ch 2 does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st to the first dc.
Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 2, then work 12 dc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and join. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, join. (24 dc)
Round 3: Ch 2, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 11 more times, join. (36 dc)
Round 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 11 more times, join. (48 dc)
Round 5: Ch 2, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 11 more times, join. (60 dc)
Round 6: Ch 2, *dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 11 more times, join. (72 dc)
Check that the base lies flat and measures 5¾ in (14.6 cm).
Basket Wall
From here on, start each round with ch 1 (doesn’t count), work the first stitch into the same stitch as the join, and join with a sl st to the first stitch. Every wall round repeats over 4 stitches, which gives 18 repeats in 72 stitches.
Round 7 (cream, turning round): Ch 1, sc BLO in each st around. This is a conversion round: 72 sc worked 1 per existing st, with 0 added. (72 sc)
The unused front loops make a crisp fold line, and the wall now grows straight up.
Round 8 (cream): Ch 1, sc in each st around. (72 sc)
Round 9 (pink buds): Join pink at the start of the round and carry cream along the tops of the stitches, working over it.
Ch 1 with cream, *bpuff in pink in next st, sc in cream in next 3 sts; rep from * around. Join, then cut pink. (72 sts: 18 bpuffs + 54 sc)
To change color, finish the last yo of the stitch before the change with the new color.
Round 10 (green band): Change to green and cut cream, leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail.
Ch 1, *sc in next 2 sts, puff in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around. Join. (72 sts: 18 puffs + 54 sc)
The first sc of each repeat lands on top of a pink bud, so each green puff sits between two buds, like a leaf.
Round 11 (cream puffs): Change to cream and cut green.
Ch 1, *puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around. Join. (72 sts: 18 puffs + 54 sc)
Each cream puff sits directly above a pink bud. Check the wall: it should be 1¾ in (4.4 cm).
Round 12 (cream): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (72 sc)
Round 13 (pink shells): Change to pink and cut cream.
Ch 1, sc in first st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ending the last repeat at *. Join to the first sc. (108 sts: 18 shells of 5 dc = 90 dc + 18 sc)
The shells sit above the green puff columns. Measure the wall: it should be 2½ in (6.4 cm), which is your size before the border.
Border (Rim, Rounds 14–16)
Border gauge: 72 sts = 18 in (45.7 cm) around, or 4 sts per inch (2.5 cm), which matches the base circumference exactly.
Before Round 14, place 4 markers to divide the rim into quarters: one at the first sc and the rest at every 5th sc after that. Each quarter (the round version of a “side”) holds 4½ repeats. Count 18 sts per quarter in each border round.
Round 14 (cream, trim round): Join cream to the first sc and cut pink.
Ch 1, *sc in sc, sk first dc of shell, sc in 2nd dc, sc in 3rd dc, sc in 4th dc, sk 5th dc; rep from * around. Join.
This is a trim round: 72 sc worked 1 per existing st into 72 of the 108 sts (all 18 sc and the middle 3 dc of each shell), with 36 dc skipped and 0 added. Each quarter has 18 sc. (72 sc)
Skipping the outer dc pulls each shell into a rounded scallop while the rim stays the same width as the base.
Round 15: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (72 sc; 18 per quarter)
Round 16: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join. (72 rev sc; 18 per quarter)
Fasten off and weave in all ends on the inside.
Why the math works: The base ends at 72 stitches, and every wall round returns to 72. The shell round grows to 108 stitches, but Round 14 brings it back to exactly 72 by working only 72 of those stitches. Since 72 is a multiple of the 4-stitch repeat, each band divides evenly into 18 repeats with no partial repeat at the join. The rim, base and wall all share the same 18 in (45.7 cm) circumference, so the basket stands straight without flaring.
The border adds ¾ in (1.9 cm): 2½ in + ¾ in = 3¼ in (8.3 cm) total wall height.
Straps (make 2)
Use 2 strands of cream held together and the 5.5 mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 61. Sl st into the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and each ch across. (60 sl st)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing. Each strap measures 20 in (50.8 cm). Doubled yarn and slip stitches make a firm cord with a braided-chain look that won’t stretch under the weight of the rolls.
Make All Pieces
Totals:
– 3 baskets, each using about 45 g cream, 12 g pink and 6 g green
– 2 straps, each using about 15 g cream
Layout grid (front view, top to bottom):
/\ apex: strap ends overlap 1¼ in
/ \ free legs: 6 in each
| [Basket 3] | top tier, 3¼ in
| | gap 1½ in
| [Basket 2] | middle tier, 3¼ in
| | gap 1½ in
| [Basket 1] | bottom tier, 3¼ in
Strap A Strap B
Joining
Method: Whipstitch each strap to the outside of each basket wall using the strap’s sewing tail or a separate length of cream.
- On each basket, mark st 1 (the join column) and st 37 directly opposite it. That leaves 36 sts on each half.
- With pins, mark each strap measured from its starting end: 3¼ in (8.3 cm), 4¾ in (12.1 cm), 8 in (20.3 cm), 9½ in (24.1 cm), 12¾ in (32.4 cm) and 18¾ in (47.6 cm).
- Bottom basket: Place strap 0 to 3¼ in (8.3 cm) vertically over the st 1 column, with its end level with the fold line of Round 7. Pin it at the base and the rim. Put Strap B on the st 37 column in the same way.
- Middle basket: Strap 4¾ in to 8 in (12.1–20.3 cm) goes from the middle basket’s fold line to its rim. This leaves a 1½ in (3.8 cm) gap.
- Top basket: Strap 9½ in to 12¾ in (24.1–32.4 cm) goes on the top basket in the same way.
- Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each of the 10 wall rounds (Rounds 7–16) gets one whipstitch through a wall stitch and the edge of the strap, on both long edges of the strap. That makes 20 stitches per strap per basket. Sewing every round spreads the load across the whole wall.
- Apex: Bring the two free 6 in (15.2 cm) legs together. Overlap the last 1¼ in (3.2 cm) of each strap and sew around all four edges of the overlap.
Tension: Sew firmly enough that the strap lies flat against the wall, but don’t pucker the basket. The rounds should stay level after sewing.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder from a pin. It should measure about 18 in (45.7 cm) from the apex to the bottom basket. The legs form a triangle about 5¼ in (13.3 cm) tall above the top rim. All three baskets should hang level.
Final Blocking
- Spray each basket with water until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Slip a toilet roll or a 5½ in (14.0 cm) jar inside each basket.
- Push the base flat and square the fold line at Round 7.
- Pinch each pink shell into a rounded scallop and push the puffs out to the right side.
- Let it dry completely, with the form still inside.
- Lay the straps flat, stretch them gently to 20 in (50.8 cm), and pin them to dry.
- Steam the strap joins lightly after sewing so the straps lie flat.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 5¾ in (14.6 cm) and lies flat.
- Every basket has 72 stitches in each wall round, with 18 repeats in each band.
- The pink buds, green puffs, cream puffs and shells line up in neat columns.
- Each wall is 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall.
- Each rim has 72 crab stitches with no gaps.
- The straps are 20 in (50.8 cm) and sewn at every wall round.
- Gaps between baskets are an even 1½ in (3.8 cm).
- All ends are woven in on the inside, and the carried cream yarn isn’t showing through.
Troubleshooting
Basket flares at the top: Your shell round is loose, or you skipped the trim in Round 14. Recount to 72 sts.
Basket narrows at the top: Your sc tension on the wall is tighter than on the base. Go up 0.5 mm for Rounds 7–16.
Pink buds sink inward: Push each bpuff out as you go. Keep the carried cream yarn loose behind the stitches.
Carried yarn shows through: Hold the carried strand along the tops of the stitches and work snugly over it.
Holder hangs crooked: One strap is sewn higher than the other. Re-pin from the bottom up using the measured marks.
Straps stretch: Use doubled yarn and a slip stitch row, not a single chain.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and press out excess water in a towel. Reshape the baskets over a roll or jar and let them dry flat.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. A 72-stitch base measures 5¾ in (14.6 cm). The wall keeps 72 stitches and reaches 2½ in (6.4 cm) by Round 13. The border adds ¾ in (1.9 cm) for a 3¼ in (8.3 cm) basket. Three baskets plus two 1½ in (3.8 cm) gaps take up 12¾ in (32.4 cm) of each 20 in (50.8 cm) strap. The 6 in (15.2 cm) legs and a 1¼ in (3.2 cm) overlap complete the strap. If you check each link as you go, the finished holder hangs straight at about 18 in (45.7 cm).
Happy crocheting!