This hanging holder adds holiday color to a bathroom and keeps spare rolls in reach. A long burgundy backing strip with a cream edge hangs from a towel bar through a built-in slot. Three deep pockets each hold one standing roll.
Each pocket starts with a solid burgundy base and lower wall. The top part is a cream diamond-mesh band finished with a soft scalloped edge. On the front of each pocket sits a layered poinsettia: two layers of cream-edged burgundy petals, four green leaves, and a cluster of seven cream beads in the center.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 28 in (71.1 cm) long including the border. Each pocket is about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across the base and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
Construction is simple and modular. You work the backing in rows of half double crochet (hdc), splitting into two straps to form the hanging slot. You work the pockets in the round from a flat circle base. You make the poinsettia layers and leaves separately, stack them, and sew them on. Last, you sew the pockets to the backing and work a two-round cream border around the backing.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in x 28 in (15.2 cm x 71.1 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 22 crocheted pieces (1 backing, 3 pockets, 6 petal layers, 12 leaves), plus 21 beads
- Layout: 3 pockets stacked in one vertical column on the backing
- Backing size before border: 5 in x 27 in (12.7 cm x 68.6 cm)
- Pocket size: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) base diameter, 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Poinsettia size: about 4 in (10.2 cm) from tip to tip
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on each side
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight acrylic or acrylic blend. It holds its shape in a humid bathroom and washes easily. A slightly plush yarn gives the deep, velvety look shown. The quantities below assume about 180 m (197 yd) per 100 g.
- Burgundy: 300 g, about 540 m (591 yd), for the backing, pockets, and petals
- Cream: 100 g, about 180 m (197 yd), for the border, mesh, scallops, petal edging, and slot trim
- Green: 20 g, about 36 m (39 yd), for the leaves
All quantities include a margin of about 15% for swatching and joining.
Tools
– 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– 21 cream round beads, 8 mm (7 per flower)
– Sewing needle and cream thread for the beads
– 6 locking stitch markers
– Tape measure
– Scissors
– Pins
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- blo – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- rnd – round
Special stitch: Scallop. Work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) all in one ch-5 loop. Each scallop has 7 sts.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Hdc in rows: 16 sts and 12 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). That is 4 sts and 3 rows per inch.
- Sc in rounds: 16 sts and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Make one pocket before you start the backing. It tests both gauges and shows you how the flower will fit.
Checkpoints:
– Pocket base after Rnd 10: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, lying flat
– Pocket wall after Rnd 15: about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall
– Finished pocket: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
– Large petal layer with edging: about 4 in (10.2 cm) from tip to tip
– Backing after Row 20: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide
If your pieces come out too big, go down a hook size. If they come out too small, go up a hook size. If the base ruffles, your tension is loose for sc; go down half a size for the base only. If the base cups, go up half a size.
Backing Strip
Use burgundy. The turning ch-2 does not count as a stitch.
Row 1: Ch 22. Hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (20 hdc)
Rows 2–69: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn. (20 hdc)
Checkpoint: The piece should be 5 in x 23 in (12.7 cm x 58.4 cm).
Hanging slot, first strap:
Row 70: Ch 2, hdc in the first 4 sts, turn. Leave the rest unworked. (4 hdc)
Rows 71–75: Ch 2, hdc in each of the 4 sts, turn. (4 hdc)
Do not fasten off. Pull up a long loop and put a stitch marker in it so it can’t unravel.
Second strap:
Join new burgundy in the 17th st of Row 69.
Row 70: Ch 2, hdc in sts 17–20, turn. (4 hdc)
Rows 71–75: Ch 2, hdc in each st, turn. (4 hdc)
Fasten off. This leaves a 12-st gap between the straps, about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide and 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
Top band:
Put the first strap’s loop back on your hook.
Row 76: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in the 4 sts of the first strap, ch 12, then hdc in the 4 sts of the second strap, turn. (8 hdc + 12 ch = 20 sts)
Rows 77–81: Ch 2, hdc in each st and each ch across, turn. (20 hdc)
Fasten off.
Checkpoint: The backing should be 5 in x 27 in (12.7 cm x 68.6 cm).
Slot trim: Join cream at any corner of the slot and sc around the opening:
– 12 sc in the unused tops of Row 69 (sts 5–16)
– 8 sc along the inner edge of the strap (4 sc for every 3 rows)
– 12 sc into the underside of the ch-12
– 8 sc along the inner edge of the other strap
Join with a sl st. (40 sc) The finished opening is about 2.5 in x 1.5 in (6.4 cm x 3.8 cm).
Pocket (Make 3)
Use burgundy. Work Rnds 1–10 in continuous spirals and move a marker up each round.
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc. (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc in 1, 2 sc in next around. (18)
Rnd 4: Sc in 2, 2 sc in next around. (24)
Rnd 5: Sc in 3, 2 sc in next around. (30)
Rnd 6: Sc in 4, 2 sc in next around. (36)
Rnd 7: Sc in 5, 2 sc in next around. (42)
Rnd 8: Sc in 6, 2 sc in next around. (48)
Rnd 9: Sc in 7, 2 sc in next around. (54)
Rnd 10: Sc in 8, 2 sc in next around. Sl st to the next st. (60)
Checkpoint: The base should be 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc blo in each st around, join. (60) This round makes a crisp edge where the base turns up into the wall.
Rnds 12–16: Ch 2 (does not count), hdc in each st around, join to the first hdc. (60) Keep the joins lined up, because that line will become the back of the pocket. Fasten off after Rnd 16.
Checkpoint: The wall should be about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Cream lace band:
Rnd 17: Join cream at the seam. Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in the first st. Ch 5, sk 2, sc in next st, repeat around. End with ch 5, sk 2, and join to the first sc. (20 ch-5 loops)
Rnd 19: Sl st into the first 3 ch to reach the center of the loop. Ch 1, sc in the same loop. Ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat around. End with ch 5 and join to the first sc. (20 ch-5 loops) This round turns the loops into a diamond mesh.
Rnd 20: Sl st into the next loop. Work a Scallop in each ch-5 loop around and join. (20 scallops, 140 sts)
Fasten off.
Checkpoint: The pocket should be 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
Poinsettia (Make 3)
Each flower has one large petal layer, one small petal layer, 4 leaves, and 7 beads.
Large petal layer (burgundy):
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 12 sc, join. (12)
Rnd 2: Ch 8. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working back toward the ring, work sl st, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc (7 sts). Sk the next sc of the ring and sl st in the following sc. Repeat 6 times. (6 petals)
Fasten off.
Rnd 3 (cream edging): Join cream at the base of any petal. Around each petal:
– 7 sc in the free loops of the chain up one side
– (sc, ch 2, sc) in the tip
– 7 sc down the stitch side
– sl st between petals
Join. (16 sc and one ch-2 tip per petal; 96 sc and 6 ch-2 tips in total) The ch-2 makes a sharp point at each petal tip.
Checkpoint: About 4 in (10.2 cm) from tip to tip.
Small petal layer (burgundy):
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 12 sc, join. (12)
Rnd 2: Ch 6. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sl st, sc, hdc, dc, sc (5 sts). Sk 1 sc, sl st in the next sc. Repeat 6 times. (6 petals)
Rnd 3 (cream edging): Work as for the large layer, with 5 sc up each side and (sc, ch 2, sc) in each tip. (12 sc and one ch-2 tip per petal; 72 sc and 6 ch-2 tips in total)
Checkpoint: About 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
Leaf (make 4 per flower, green):
- Ch 8. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc (6 sts).
- Work 3 sc in the last ch.
- Turn the leaf and work along the other side of the chain: sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc (6 sts).
- Ch 2 and sl st in the first ch to make the point.
You’ll have 15 sts plus the point. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Each leaf is about 2 in (5.1 cm) long.
Make All Pieces
Here is the complete list of pieces:
– Burgundy: 1 backing, 3 pockets, 3 large petal layers, 3 small petal layers
– Cream: worked onto the burgundy pieces (slot trim, lace bands, petal edging), plus the border
– Green: 12 leaves
Layout (front view):
+-------------------------+
| Top band [ SLOT ] | Rows 70-81
| |
| Pocket 3 + poinsettia | base at 17 in (43.2 cm), Row 51
| |
| Pocket 2 + poinsettia | base at 9 in (22.9 cm), Row 27
| |
| Pocket 1 + poinsettia | base at 1 in (2.5 cm), Row 3
+-------------------------+
The pockets are placed 8 in (20.3 cm) apart. That leaves room above each one to tip a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) roll in.
Joining
Build each flower:
1. Pin the 4 leaves to the back of the large layer, spaced evenly, so each tip peeks out between two petals.
2. Stack the small layer on top, turned so its petals sit between the large petals.
3. With burgundy, sew through all layers around the center rings.
4. Sew 7 beads in the center with cream thread: one in the middle and six around it.
Attach a flower to each pocket: Center the flower on the front of the pocket, opposite the seam, with its center about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) above the base. The top petal will reach the scalloped edge. Sew around each petal through the cream edging only, so the stitching doesn’t show.
Attach the pockets to the backing: Place a marker in each row named on the layout grid. Lay the pocket on the backing with its seam centered against it.
1. Choose 18 sts of Rnd 11 centered on the seam. Whipstitch them to sts 2–19 of the marked row, one pocket stitch to one backing stitch. Because the counts match, the base sits flat with no gathering.
2. Sew straight up the wall from each end of that seam, along backing columns 2 and 19, through Rnd 17. That is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm).
3. Leave the mesh and scallops free.
Tension: Sew snugly but loosely enough that the backing doesn’t pucker. Keep each seam one stitch in from the edge so the border can go in cleanly.
Size checkpoint: The backing should still lie flat at 5 in x 27 in (12.7 cm x 68.6 cm).
Border
The border uses cream and two rounds of sc.
Border gauge: 4 sc per inch along every edge. That matches the backing’s 4 hdc per inch across the width. On the long sides there are 3 hdc rows per inch, so 4 sc over every 3 rows gives the same 4 sc per inch.
Rnd 1:
1. Join at the top right corner.
2. Top: 3 sc in the corner st, 1 sc in each of the next 18 sts, 3 sc in the last st. (24 sc)
3. Long side: 4 sc over every 3 row-ends. 81 rows ÷ 3 = 27 groups x 4 = 108 sc.
4. Bottom: 3 sc in the corner, 1 sc in each of the next 18 sts, 3 sc in the last st. (24 sc)
5. Second long side: 108 sc.
Join. Total: 24 + 24 + 108 + 108 = 264 sc.
Counting from one corner’s center stitch to the next, inclusive, the top and bottom have 22 sts each and the long sides have 112 sts each. As a check: (2 x 22) + (2 x 112) − 4 shared corners = 264.
Rnd 2: Ch 1. Sc in each st, working 3 sc in each corner’s center stitch. Join. (264 + 8 = 272 sc)
Counting corner to corner inclusive, the top and bottom now have 24 sts each and the long sides have 114 sts each. As a check: 48 + 228 − 4 = 272.
Why the math works: The edge count matches the body’s own gauge, so the border neither stretches nor ruffles the edge. Each corner gains 2 sts per round, which is just enough to turn the corner flat. The two rounds add 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on every side, which takes 5 in x 27 in to 6 in x 28 in (15.2 cm x 71.1 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends. Run each tail through stitches of its own color.
- Pin the backing flat at 6 in x 28 in (15.2 cm x 71.1 cm).
- Fill each pocket with a roll, or with a rolled towel about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.
- Hold a steam iron about 1 in (2.5 cm) above the work and steam lightly. Don’t press, and don’t touch the beads.
- Open the mesh diamonds and pinch each petal tip to a point with your fingers.
- Let everything dry completely before you remove the pins.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The backing is 6 in x 28 in (15.2 cm x 71.1 cm) and lies flat.
- The slot opening is about 2.5 in x 1.5 in (6.4 cm x 3.8 cm).
- All three pockets are 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with 20 even scallops each.
- The pocket bases sit at 1 in, 9 in, and 17 in (2.5 cm, 22.9 cm, 43.2 cm) above the bottom of the backing (measured before the border).
- Each flower has 6 large petals, 6 small petals, 4 leaves, and 7 beads.
- All 12 petal tips per flower are sharp.
- The border is 272 sc with flat corners.
- All ends are secure.
Troubleshooting
- The pocket base ruffles: Go down half a hook size for Rnds 1–10.
- The pocket is too loose for the roll: Work the hdc walls with a 4.5 mm hook.
- The mesh looks flat or droopy: Pull each sc in the mesh tight before you start the next ch-5.
- The petals curl: Steam them and pin each tip flat until dry.
- The border waves: Change to 3 sc over every 3 row-ends on the long sides, making sure each pair of long sides uses the same count.
- The backing sags under the rolls: Sew the pockets’ side seams higher, through Rnd 18.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. If the beads are sewn on securely, you can use a gentle machine cycle inside a mesh laundry bag.
Final Notes
Every measurement follows from the gauge:
– 16 hdc and 12 rows per 4 in give a 5 in x 27 in (12.7 cm x 68.6 cm) backing.
– The 60-st pocket base comes to 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, and the walls add up to 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
– The 4 in (10.2 cm) poinsettias fill each pocket front.
– The 272-st border brings the holder to 6 in x 28 in (15.2 cm x 71.1 cm).
If you check each stage as you go, the final piece will hang straight. Happy crocheting!