Daisy Window Plastic Bag Holder Crochet Pattern

This plastic bag holder is a slim hanging tube made from sixteen small flower squares. Each square has a solid golden-yellow center surrounded by eight raised cream petals. Small open spaces where the squares meet let the bags inside show through like little windows. Solid cream bands finish the top and bottom, and a yarn-covered ring hangs it from a wall hook.

The sample uses cream as the main color and golden yellow for the flower centers. A second colorway works just as well: soft pink as the main color, with burgundy centers and a burgundy-covered ring. The style is cottage-farmhouse, practical and pretty at once.

The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished tube measures 12 in (30.5 cm) around and 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall. When it hangs, it measures about 19.5 in (49.5 cm) from the bottom edge to the top of the ring.

Construction is simple. You make 16 identical square motifs, join them into a flat 4 x 4 panel, then seam the panel into a tube. You work bands in the round at the top and bottom, and the bottom band narrows slightly to hold the bags. Two short straps attach the tube to a covered ring.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished size: 12 in (30.5 cm) around, about 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across, 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall
• Hanging length with ring: about 19.5 in (49.5 cm)
• Skill level: Easy-intermediate
• Terminology: US crochet terms
• Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
• Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
• Number of pieces: 16 motifs, plus 1 covered ring
• Layout: 4 motifs around x 4 motifs tall
• Motif size: 3 in x 3 in (7.6 cm x 7.6 cm)
• Size before border: 12 in x 12 in (30.5 cm x 30.5 cm) tube
• Border depth: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) at the top and at the bottom

Materials

Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton. Cotton keeps its shape on the wall, shows the petal texture clearly, and won’t stretch out as bags are pulled through. Acrylic also works but will be softer and slightly floppier.

• Color A, golden yellow (centers): 30 g, about 51 m
• Color B, cream (petals, motif edges, bands, straps, ring cover): 150 g, about 255 m
• For the alternate colorway, use burgundy as Color A and pink as Color B. Cover the ring in burgundy, which needs an extra 10 g (about 17 m) of burgundy.

Quantities include a margin of about 15 percent for gauge differences and swatching.

Tools:

• 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
• One metal or plastic ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Blocking mats and rust-proof pins

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
• sp: space
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rep: repeat
• RS / WS: right side / wrong side

Special stitches

• Petal (4-dc cluster over 2 sts): [yo, insert hook in next st, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] twice in the same st, then twice in the following st. Yo and pull through all 5 loops on the hook.
• Beginning petal: Ch 2 (counts as the first leg). [Yo, insert hook in same st, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] once, then twice in the next st. Yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.
• Crab stitch (reverse sc): Working from left to right, insert the hook in the next st to the right, pull up a loop, yo, and pull through both loops.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Make one complete motif before anything else and block it lightly. Every other measurement in this pattern depends on that motif.

Motif gauge: One finished motif = 3 in x 3 in (7.6 cm x 7.6 cm), with 12 sc per side.

Band gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), or 4 sc per inch. This matches the motif edge (12 sc over 3 in), which is why the bands lie flat.

Checkpoints for one motif:

• After Round 1: about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
• After Round 2: about 2 in (5.1 cm) across, from petal tip to petal tip
• After Round 3: about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) square
• After Round 4: 3 in (7.6 cm) square

If your motif is larger than 3 in (7.6 cm), go down a hook size. If it is smaller, go up a hook size. Even 0.25 in (0.6 cm) extra per motif adds 1 in (2.5 cm) around the tube, so fix it now.

Flower Motif (make 16)

Round 1 (Color A): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 15 dc in the ring. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the top of the ch-3. (16 dc) Fasten off Color A.

Round 2 (Color B): Join Color B in any dc. Work a beginning petal over the first 2 sts, ch 4, petal over the next 2 sts, ch 4; rep from * 6 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning petal. (8 petals, 8 ch-4 sps)*

Each petal uses 2 sts of Round 1, so 8 petals x 2 sts = 16 sts, all used. Push each petal toward the RS so it stands up as a rounded puff.

Round 3 (Color B): Sl st into the first ch-4 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp for the first corner. Work 4 hdc in the next ch-4 sp. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-4 sp, then 4 hdc in the next ch-4 sp; rep from * 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch-3. (24 dc + 16 hdc = 40 sts, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps)*

You work these stitches into the chain spaces behind the petals, so the petals stay raised in front. Each side between corner spaces has 3 dc + 4 hdc + 3 dc = 10 sts.

Round 4 (Color B): Ch 1. Sc in the same st as the join and in each st around, working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (40 sc worked 1 per existing st + 8 corner sc added = 48 sc, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps)

Each side has 1 corner sc + 10 sc + 1 corner sc = 12 sc per side, including that side’s 2 corner sc. The ch-2 corner spaces are not counted. Fasten off.

Weave in the Color A tail on the WS of each motif as you go. The cream petals will hide it.

Make All Pieces

• Color A: 16 centers (Round 1)
• Color B: 16 motifs (Rounds 2 to 4)

Layout of the flat panel before you seam it into a tube (each M is one motif, all identical):

Row 1 (top):    M  M  M  M
Row 2:          M  M  M  M
Row 3:          M  M  M  M
Row 4 (bottom): M  M  M  M

Columns 1 and 4 are later seamed to each other, so the tube has 4 motifs around.

Joining

Method: Whipstitch through the back loops only, on the RS, using Color B and a tapestry needle. This leaves a neat, flat ridge of front loops on each side. It also keeps the seams slightly open where four corners meet, which creates the small windows between the flowers.

Stitch-to-stitch logic: Hold two motifs side by side, RS up. Start in the corner ch-2 sp, match 12 sc to 12 sc, and end in the next corner ch-2 sp. Each seam is 1 corner sp + 12 sts + 1 corner sp, with no stitches added or skipped.

Order:

1. Join the motifs in each horizontal row into a strip of 4 (3 seams per strip).
2. Join the 4 strips to each other along their long edges. Each long seam covers 4 motifs, so you match 4 x 12 = 48 sts one to one, plus the corner spaces.
3. Fold the panel RS out. Seam the free edge of column 4 to the free edge of column 1 the same way to form a tube.

Tension: Pull each stitch just snug enough to close the seam. If you whipstitch too tightly, the seam gets shorter and the motifs pucker. If you stitch too loosely, the tube sags.

Size checkpoint: The flat panel should measure 12 in x 12 in (30.5 cm x 30.5 cm) before you seam the tube. The finished tube should measure 12 in (30.5 cm) around and 12 in (30.5 cm) tall.

Border

The border is two bands, one at each open end of the tube, worked in the round with Color B.

Border gauge: 4 sc per inch, which matches the motif edge.

Top Band

Round 1: Join Color B in the corner sc at any seam on the top edge. Ch 1, then sc in each sc around. Work into the 12 sc of each motif and skip the corner ch-2 sps. Join. (4 motifs x 12 sc = 48 sc)

Don’t add stitches at the seams. Each motif’s 12 sc already includes its corner sc, so 48 is the complete count.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), then hdc in each st around. Join. (48 hdc)

Round 3: Ch 2, then hdc in each st around. Join. (48 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 1, then sc in each st around. Join. (48 sc)

Round 5: Ch 1, then crab stitch in each st around. Join. (48 crab sts) Fasten off.

Place markers in sts 1 and 25 of Round 4, which sit opposite each other. These mark where the straps go.

Bottom Band

Rounds 1 to 3: Work as for Top Band Rounds 1 to 3 on the bottom edge. (48 sts)

Round 4 (decrease round): Ch 1, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog; rep from * 7 more times. Join. (8 repeats x 5 sts = 40 sc)*

Round 5: Ch 1, then crab stitch in each st around. Join. (40 crab sts) Fasten off.

The narrower bottom opening, 10 in (25.4 cm) around, holds the bags gently so they come out one at a time.

Why the Math Works

The tube is 12 in (30.5 cm) around. At 4 sc per inch, that is exactly 48 sts, and 4 motifs x 12 sc also equals 48. Because the band count matches the motif edge exactly, the bands neither flare nor pull in. The only deliberate change is the bottom decrease to 40 sts. Five band rounds add 1.25 in (3.2 cm) at each end, so 12 in + 1.25 in + 1.25 in = 14.5 in (36.8 cm).

Straps and Ring

Straps (make 2): Join Color B in the first marked st of Top Band Round 4, working under the crab stitch round. Ch 1, then sc in this st and the next 3 sts. Turn. (4 sc) Keep working rows of 4 sc until the strap measures 2 in (5.1 cm). Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Repeat at the second marker.

Ring cover: Join Color B (or burgundy) around the ring. Work sc tightly over the ring, pushing the sts together, until the ring is fully covered (about 56 sc). Join and fasten off. The covered ring measures about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.

Attach: Fold the last 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of each strap over the ring toward the inside and sew it down securely. About 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of each strap stays visible between the band and the ring.

Final Blocking

1. Weave in all remaining ends, running each one through at least 2 in (5.1 cm) of stitches.
2. Soak the holder in cool water for 10 minutes, then press out the water in a towel. Don’t wring it.
3. Slide a tube form about 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across inside, such as a rolled towel or a cardboard tube wrapped in plastic.
4. Shape the tube to 12 in (30.5 cm) around and 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall.
5. Lift each petal with your fingertips so it sits raised and round.
6. Let it dry completely, standing upright, before you hang it.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• Every motif measures 3 in (7.6 cm) square with 12 sc per side.
• All seams match stitch to stitch, with no puckers.
• Small open windows appear evenly at every point where four corners meet.
• The top band has 48 sts on every round, and the bottom band ends with 40.
• The tube measures 12 in (30.5 cm) around and 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall.
• The straps sit opposite each other and are the same length.
• The ring is fully covered, with no plastic or metal showing.
• All ends are woven in securely.

Troubleshooting

Petals look flat. Push them to the RS after Round 2 and again when blocking. Make sure you work Round 3 into the ch-4 sps, not into the petal tops.

Motifs aren’t square. Check Round 3: each corner needs 3 dc on each side of the ch-2, and each side needs exactly 4 hdc.

Tube is too big. This usually means the motifs are loose. Remake them with a smaller hook, or tighten the seams slightly.

Band ruffles. You probably added stitches at the seams. Recount Round 1: it must be 48.

Band pulls in. You probably skipped a stitch at a seam. Recount and rework Round 1.

Bags fall out of the bottom. Work one more decrease round: *sc in the next 3 sts, sc2tog; rep from * 7 more times (8 repeats x 4 sts = 32 sc).

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then lay flat or reshape over a tube to dry. Avoid the dryer, which can shrink cotton unevenly.

Final Notes

The whole holder rests on one chain of measurements. One motif is 3 in (7.6 cm) square with 12 sc per side. Four motifs around make 48 sts, or 12 in (30.5 cm). Four motifs tall make 12 in (30.5 cm). Two bands of 1.25 in (3.2 cm) bring the height to 14.5 in (36.8 cm), and the straps and ring bring the hanging length to about 19.5 in (49.5 cm). Get the first motif right and every other number falls into place.

Happy crocheting!