This hanging holder stores three spare toilet rolls in a column of round crochet baskets. Each basket has a solid single crochet base, a firm band at the bottom and top of the wall, and an open band of shell stitches in the middle so you can see the rolls through it. Two narrow straps connect each basket to the one above, and the top pair loops over a wooden ring that hangs from any hook or towel bar.
The sample is worked in one color, a soft taupe or mushroom brown, which looks good with natural wood, cream walls and linen towels. The style is calm and natural. It looks like woven storage, but it packs flat when you’re not using it.
All instructions use US crochet terms. Each basket measures 5 in (12.7 cm) across and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. The column of three baskets is 16 in (40.6 cm) from the bottom of the lowest basket to the top rim, and the whole holder hangs about 22 in (55.9 cm) long including the ring.
You’ll work each basket from the bottom up in joined rounds:
- a flat circle for the base
- a back-loop round that turns the edge up
- the wall, with sc bands at the bottom and top and shells in the middle
- a reverse single crochet rim
After that, you work two straps up from each rim, sew the straps to the basket above, and fold the top straps over the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 22 in (55.9 cm) long, ring included
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets with 6 straps, joined into one hanging unit
- Layout: 1 column x 3 baskets, stacked vertically
- Piece size: each basket is 5 in (12.7 cm) in diameter x 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Size before border: wall height of 3.75 in (9.5 cm) above the base fold
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) reverse single crochet rim
Materials
Yarn: Choose a firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend so the baskets keep their shape while holding a roll. Acrylic works too, but it sags more over time. A smooth, plied yarn shows off the shells best. Fuzzy or loosely spun yarns hide the open gaps.
- Taupe (main color): about 95 g / 160 m (175 yd), based on a yarn with about 85 m per 50 g
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook, plus a 4.5 mm hook for gauge adjustments
- Wooden ring, 2 in (5.1 cm) outer diameter
- Tapestry needle
- 4 stitch markers
- Scissors and a measuring tape
- One standard toilet roll for test fitting
The yarn amount includes a margin of about 20% for a gauge test, long sewing tails and small tension differences.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO: back loop only
- rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sp: space
- Rnd: round
- RS: right side
Special stitches:
- Shell: (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same stitch or space.
- Reverse single crochet: Working from left to right (right to left if you’re left-handed), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. This makes a twisted, rope-like edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 15 sc and 16 sc rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
- Each sc round adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of height.
- Each shell round adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Use the bottom basket as your gauge test. Finish it completely before you start the others, and measure at each of these points:
- After Rnd 5 (30 sts): the base is 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across.
- After Rnd 10 (60 sts): the base is 5 in (12.7 cm) across and lies flat.
- After Rnd 13: the wall is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) above the fold.
- After Rnd 17: the wall is 2.75 in (7.0 cm).
- After Rnd 21: the wall is 3.75 in (9.5 cm). A roll should slide in with a little room.
- After Rnd 22: the total height is 4 in (10.2 cm).
If your base is too big: If the base is wider than 5 in (12.7 cm) across, change to the 4.5 mm hook.
If your base is too small: If the base is smaller than 4.75 in (12.1 cm), the roll won’t fit. Change to a 5.5 mm hook.
If the base doesn’t lie flat: A ruffled base means the increases are too loose. A cupped base means they’re too tight.
Basket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds and don’t turn.
- Join each round with a sl st to the first stitch.
- The ch 1 at the start of each sc round doesn’t count as a stitch.
- Put a marker in the first stitch of every round.
Base
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1 and work 6 sc into the ring, then join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc in next st; repeat from * 6 times, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st; repeat from * 6 times, join. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * 6 times, join. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st; repeat from * 6 times, join. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * 6 times, join. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st; repeat from * 6 times, join. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; repeat from * 6 times, join. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st; repeat from * 6 times, join. (60 sts)
The increases move to a different spot each round. This keeps the base round instead of hexagonal.
Wall
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (60 sts) The unused front loops form a neat ridge, and the wall starts to turn upward.
Rnds 12–13: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sts)
Rnd 14 (shell set-up):
- Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join.
- Skip 2 sts, shell in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st.
- Repeat from * 9 more times, but leave out the final sc on the last repeat.
- Join to the first sc.
(10 shells and 10 sc) Each repeat uses exactly 6 sts, and 10 x 6 = 60.
Rnd 15:
- Sl st in the next 2 dc and into the ch-1 sp of the first shell.
- Ch 3 (counts as a dc), then work (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same sp.
- Ch 1, shell in the ch-1 sp of the next shell. Repeat from * 8 more times.
- Ch 1 and join to the top of the ch 3.
(10 shells and 10 ch-1 sps between shells, for a total of 40 dc and 20 ch-1 sps)
The ch 1 between shells sits over the sc from Rnd 14, which creates the open gaps between the shell columns. Each repeat is 4 dc plus 2 ch-1 sps, the same width as 6 sc, so the wall stays straight.
Rnds 16–17: Sl st in the next dc and into the ch-1 sp, then finish the round as in Rnd 15, starting from “Ch 3.” (40 dc and 20 ch-1 sps per round)
Rnd 18 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join, then sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around, and join. (40 sc worked 1 per dc + 20 sc worked 1 per ch-1 sp = 60 sts)
Rnds 19–21: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sts)
Test-fit a roll before you work the rim.
Make All Pieces
Make 3 baskets in Taupe. They’re identical through the rim and differ only in strap length:
- Basket A (bottom): 1, with 2 short straps
- Basket B (middle): 1, with 2 short straps
- Basket C (top): 1, with 2 long straps
Layout, top to bottom:
[ RING ]
/ \
[ BASKET C ]
| |
[ BASKET B ]
| |
[ BASKET A ]
Border: Reverse Single Crochet Rim
Border gauge: 15 rev sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). This matches the wall, so the rim won’t flare or pull in.
Rnd 22: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. (60 sts) Fasten off and weave in the tail.
Why the math works:
- The base ends at 60 sts.
- The shell band is 10 repeats of 6 sts, and the conversion round brings it back to exactly 60 (40 + 20).
- The rim adds height but no stitches.
So the top of the basket has the same circumference as the base edge. 60 sts at 3.75 sts per inch is 16 in (40.6 cm), which fits around a 5 in (12.7 cm) circle.
Straps
Count the rim stitches, starting with the first stitch after the join as st 1. Mark sts 1–3 and sts 31–33. These two groups are 30 sts apart, so they sit directly opposite each other, and the jog from the joins is hidden under a strap.
Row 1: With the RS facing, join yarn in st 1 of the rim. Ch 1, then sc in sts 1–3. (3 sts)
Following rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sts)
- Baskets A and B: Work 11 rows in total, for a strap 2.75 in (7.0 cm) long.
- Basket C: Work 28 rows in total, for a strap 7 in (17.8 cm) long.
Fasten off with a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Repeat at sts 31–33. Each strap is 0.8 in (2.0 cm) wide.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch, using the long strap tails. Join one level at a time.
- Stand Basket B on top of Basket A. Line up Basket B’s st 1 with the strap on Basket A’s sts 1–3.
- Lay the last 3 rows of each Basket A strap flat against the outside of Basket B, over Rnds 11–13.
- Stitch to stitch: Whipstitch the 3 sts of the strap’s last row to sts 1–3 of Rnd 13 (use sts 31–33 for the second strap). Then whipstitch each side of the strap down, matching 1 strap row to 1 basket round. Both are sc fabric at 4 rows per inch, so 3 rows match 3 rounds exactly.
- Join Basket B’s straps to Basket C the same way.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch just snug enough to close the gap. If you pull harder, the wall will pucker. The strap should lie smooth, with no ripples.
Size checkpoint: 8 rows of each strap, 2 in (5.1 cm), should show between baskets. From the bottom of Basket A to the rim of Basket C, the column should measure 16 in (40.6 cm): three 4 in baskets plus two 2 in gaps.
Ring:
- Pass each long strap from Basket C through the wooden ring from front to back.
- Fold the last 6 rows, 1.5 in (3.8 cm), down behind the strap and whipstitch them in place.
- Arrange the two straps side by side on the ring.
The free length of each strap is 22 rows, 5.5 in (14.0 cm). It angles in to the ring and gives about 4 in (10.2 cm) of vertical drop.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket with water, or steam it from a few inches away without touching the yarn.
- Fill each basket with a roll wrapped in a plastic bag, or with a 5 in (12.7 cm) jar.
- Use your fingers to straighten the shell columns and even out the open gaps.
- Lay the holder on a towel and pin the straps flat and straight, with the baskets lined up.
- Let everything dry completely, about 24 hours, before you hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 5 in (12.7 cm) across and lies flat.
- Each basket has 60 sts at Rnds 13, 18, 21 and 22.
- Each shell band has 10 even columns with open gaps.
- Each basket is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, and the rolls stand slightly above the rims.
- All 6 straps are 3 sts wide, and the two straps on each basket are directly opposite each other.
- Each gap between baskets is 2 in (5.1 cm), and the baskets hang level.
- The folds around the ring are sewn securely, and all ends are woven in.
Troubleshooting
- A basket tilts: Its straps are sewn at different heights. Unpick one strap and resew it, matching 3 rows to 3 rounds.
- The shell columns lean: Rnd 15 started in the wrong place. Always slip stitch into the first shell’s ch-1 sp.
- The wall flares in the shell band: The chains are too loose. Work Rnds 14–17 with the 4.5 mm hook.
- The roll fits too tightly: Add Rnd 10a: sc in next 9 sts, inc, for 66 sts. Then work 11 shell repeats and place the straps at sts 1–3 and 34–36.
- The rim waves: The rev sc stitches are too loose. Keep them firm, or go down one hook size for Rnd 22.
- The holder spins on the hook: The top straps are crossed on the ring. Move them so they sit side by side.
- The baskets sag after a few weeks: The yarn is too soft. Remake the baskets in a firmer cotton, or one hook size smaller.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the water by rolling the holder in a towel, and let it dry with a roll inside each basket to hold the shape. Don’t tumble dry, because the heat can shrink the cotton and distort the baskets.
Final Notes
Everything in this pattern comes from one gauge, 15 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm):
- That gauge makes a 60-st base 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
- The wall stays at 60 sts and rises 3.75 in (9.5 cm).
- The rim brings each basket to 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- Three baskets and two 2 in (5.1 cm) gaps make a 16 in (40.6 cm) column.
- The top straps and ring bring the full length to about 22 in (55.9 cm).
If the first basket passes every checkpoint, the other two will match it.
Happy crocheting!