This Honey Bloom keychain is a block capital “H” worked in cream cotton with a raised honeycomb texture. Small yellow flowers, round buds, and green leaves are sewn on at the upper left and lower right. A gold key ring hangs from the top-left corner.
The colors are soft and fresh: cream for the letter, bright yellow for the flowers and buds, and leaf green for the leaves. The style is cottage-garden with a little beehive charm. It works on a bag zipper, a set of keys, or as a monogrammed gift.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished keychain measures 3.4 in (8.6 cm) wide and 4.0 in (10.2 cm) tall.
The letter is one single flat piece. You make two lower legs, join them with a chain to form the crossbar, then split again for the two upper legs. One round of single crochet goes around the whole outline. The flowers, buds, and leaves are small separate appliqués sewn on top.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 3.4 in (8.6 cm) wide x 4.0 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate (front post stitches, joining legs, shaped border)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Sport weight (#2) cotton
- Hook: 3.0 mm
- Number of pieces: 1 letter, plus 2 flowers, 2 buds, and 4 leaves as appliqués
- Layout: A single letter H; no main pieces to assemble
- Each leg: 5 sts wide = 1.0 in (2.5 cm)
- Size before border: 3.0 in (7.6 cm) wide x 3.6 in (9.1 cm) tall
- Border depth: 1 round of sc, 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every side
Materials
Choose a smooth mercerized cotton or cotton blend in sport weight. Cotton shows the honeycomb clearly and keeps its shape on a keychain. A fuzzy yarn will hide the raised cells.
- Cream (main color): 12 g, about 30 m
- Yellow (flowers and buds): 4 g, about 10 m
- Green (leaves): 2 g, about 5 m
These amounts include a small margin for the test leg and sewing tails.
Tools:
- 3.0 mm crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers (2)
- 25 mm gold split key ring
- 8 mm gold jump ring and 2 pairs of flat-nose pliers
- Blocking mat, rustproof pins, and a spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- MR – magic ring
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – FPdc2 (front post double crochet 2 rows below): Yarn over and insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the matching stitch two rows below. Pull up a loop to the height of the current row and finish as a dc. Skip the stitch behind the FPdc2 in the current row. Each FPdc2 counts as 1 stitch.
Honeycomb rows: The texture alternates a plain WS sc row with one of two RS post rows.
- Row A (RS): sc in first st, FPdc2, sc in next st; repeat to end.
- Row B (RS): FPdc2, sc in next st, FPdc2; repeat to end.
Both rows work over an odd number of stitches. The posts in Row A and Row B sit in alternating positions, so they stagger and form the hexagon-like cells.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 5 sts and 5 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) in honeycomb pattern. That equals 20 sts and 20 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
You don’t need a separate swatch. Make one lower leg first and measure it as your test piece.
Checkpoints:
- One lower leg (5 sts x 7 rows): 1.0 in (2.5 cm) wide x 1.4 in (3.6 cm) tall.
- After Row 11 (crossbar complete): 3.0 in (7.6 cm) wide x 2.2 in (5.6 cm) tall.
- After Row 18 (letter complete): 3.0 in (7.6 cm) wide x 3.6 in (9.1 cm) tall.
- After the border: 3.4 in (8.6 cm) wide x 4.0 in (10.2 cm) tall.
If your leg is too wide, go down to a 2.75 mm hook. If it’s too narrow, go up to a 3.25 mm hook. If the width is right but the leg is too tall, pull up shorter loops on the FPdc2 stitches. They should sit level with the sc beside them.
Lower Legs
Leg 1
Foundation: With cream, ch 6.
Row 1 (RS): sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (5 sts)
Row 2 (WS): ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc in each st across, turn. (5 sts)
Row 3 (RS): ch 1, work Row A: sc, FPdc2, sc, FPdc2, sc, turn. (5 sts: 3 sc, 2 FPdc2)
Row 4 (WS): ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (5 sts)
Row 5 (RS): ch 1, work Row B: FPdc2, sc, FPdc2, sc, FPdc2, turn. (5 sts: 2 sc, 3 FPdc2)
Row 6 (WS): ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (5 sts)
Row 7 (RS): ch 1, work Row A. (5 sts)
Fasten off and weave in the tail. Check Leg 1 against Checkpoint 1.
Leg 2
Work Rows 1–7 exactly as for Leg 1. Do not fasten off. Turn so the WS faces you.
Crossbar
Row 8 (WS, joining row): ch 1, sc in each of the 5 sts of Leg 2, ch 5. Hold Leg 1 with its WS facing you and its last row at the top, then sc in each of the 5 sts of its Row 7. Turn. (10 sc + 5 ch = 15 sts)
The 5 chains bridge the open gap and become the underside of the crossbar.
Row 9 (RS): ch 1, FPdc2, sc, FPdc2, sc, FPdc2 over the first leg; sc in each of the 5 chains; FPdc2, sc, FPdc2, sc, FPdc2 over the second leg. Turn. (15 sts: 9 sc, 6 FPdc2)
Over the chain section there are no stitches two rows below, so all 5 stitches there are plain sc. This keeps the underside of the crossbar firm.
Row 10 (WS): ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (15 sts)
Row 11 (RS): ch 1, work Row A across: sc, FPdc2, sc 7 times. (15 sts: 8 sc, 7 FPdc2)
Every FPdc2 in this row has a real stitch from Row 9 below it, so the honeycomb now runs unbroken across the crossbar. Do not fasten off. Check Checkpoint 2.
Upper Legs
First Upper Leg
Row 12 (WS): ch 1, sc in the first 5 sts only, turn. Leave the other 10 sts unworked. (5 sts)
Row 13 (RS): ch 1, work Row B. (5 sts)
Row 14 (WS): ch 1, sc across. (5 sts)
Row 15 (RS): ch 1, work Row A. (5 sts)
Row 16 (WS): ch 1, sc across. (5 sts)
Row 17 (RS): ch 1, work Row B. (5 sts)
Row 18 (WS): ch 1, sc across. (5 sts)
Fasten off.
Second Upper Leg
With the WS facing, skip the 5 sts of Row 11 that come right after the first upper leg. They stay unworked and form the top of the crossbar. Join cream in the 11th st.
Row 12 (WS): ch 1, sc in the same st and in each of the last 4 sts. (5 sts)
Rows 13–18: Work as for the first upper leg. (5 sts)
Do not fasten off. Check Checkpoint 3: 3.0 in (7.6 cm) wide x 3.6 in (9.1 cm) tall.
Border
Border gauge: 5 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) along both stitch edges and row-end edges. The row gauge matches the stitch gauge, so 1 sc per stitch and 1 sc per row end keeps every edge flat.
Edge positions before the border:
- 4 short edges (2 leg bottoms, 2 leg tops): 5 sts each = 20
- 2 outer sides: 18 row ends each = 36
- 2 inner sides of the lower legs: 7 row ends each = 14
- Underside of the crossbar: 5 ch
- 2 inner sides of the upper legs: 7 row ends each = 14
- Top of the crossbar: 5 sts
- Total edge positions: 94
Round 1 (RS): Turn so the RS faces you. ch 1, then work around the whole letter:
- Work 1 sc in each stitch and in each row end.
- At each of the 8 outer corners, work 1 extra sc in the corner stitch (2 sc in that stitch).
- At each of the 4 inner corners, where a leg meets the crossbar, work sc2tog over the last row end of the leg and the first stitch of the crossbar edge.
Join with a sl st to the first sc.
Count: 94 sts worked 1 per position + 8 extra corner sc − 4 (sc2tog) = 98 sts.
Per-edge check:
- Each short edge: 5 + 2 corner extras = 7 sc (4 edges = 28)
- Each outer side: 18 sc (2 sides = 36)
- Lower gap: 6 sc up one inner side, sc2tog, 3 sc along the underside, sc2tog, 6 sc down the other inner side = 17 sts (7 + 5 + 7 − 2)
- Upper gap: the same arrangement = 17 sts
- Total: 28 + 36 + 17 + 17 = 98 sts
Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why the math works: Working 1 sc per position keeps each edge the same length. The extra sc at each outer corner turns the corner without cupping and gives the soft rounded look. The sc2tog at each inner corner removes fullness that would otherwise ruffle. The round is one row tall, 0.2 in (0.5 cm), so it adds 0.4 in (1.0 cm) to both width and height: 3.0 + 0.4 = 3.4 in (8.6 cm), and 3.6 + 0.4 = 4.0 in (10.2 cm).
After the border, each leg is 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide. Each gap is 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1.2 in (3.0 cm) tall. The crossbar is 1.2 in (3.0 cm) tall.
Appliqués
Flower (make 2)
With yellow, MR.
Round 1: ch 1, 5 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. Pull the ring closed. (5 sts)
Round 2: In each st, work (sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc). Join with a sl st to the first sc. (30 sts, 5 petals)
Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail for sewing. Each flower is about 1.0 in (2.5 cm) across.
Center: With cream, embroider 3 French knots close together over the center ring.
Bud (make 2)
With yellow, MR, ch 2, 5 dc in ring. Pull the ring tight so the dc curl into a dome. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch. Fasten off and leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail. Each bud is about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) across.
Leaf (make 4)
With green, ch 7.
Side 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. (6 sts)
Tip: ch 1, then rotate to work along the other side of the foundation chain.
Side 2: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. (6 sts)
Sl st into the tip ch. Fasten off and leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail. Each leaf is about 0.8 in (2.0 cm) long with a pointed tip.
Placement and Stacking
Lay the letter RS up with the lower gap at the bottom. Build each cluster from the bottom layer up: leaves first, then the flower, then the bud.
Upper-left cluster:
- Sew one leaf with its tip pointing up and to the right, so its base will sit under the flower’s upper-right petal.
- Sew a second leaf with its tip pointing down along the outer edge of the left leg.
- Center Flower 1 over the spot where the left upper leg meets the crossbar, with its petals covering the leaf bases. Stitch around the center ring and tack down the tip of each petal.
- Sew Bud 1 to the right of the flower, on the crossbar.
Lower-right cluster:
- On the right lower leg, sew one leaf pointing up and to the right and one pointing down and to the left.
- Place Flower 2 over the leaf bases, about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) above the bottom edge, and sew it down the same way.
- Sew Bud 2 above and to the left of the flower.
Carry the yarn between stitches on the WS only, so no strands show between the cells.
Key Ring
Open the 8 mm jump ring with two pliers by twisting the ends sideways. Pass it through the border at the top-left corner of the left upper leg, catching 2 strands of the border. Add the 25 mm split ring and close the jump ring fully.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends before blocking.
- Lay the letter RS up on the blocking mat.
- Pin the 8 outer corners first to the final size: 3.4 in (8.6 cm) wide and 4.0 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- Pin the outer sides straight, then the inner gap edges, so each gap is 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide.
- Mist with water until damp, not soaked.
- Don’t press the honeycomb flat. Let the raised posts stay raised.
- Let it dry completely, then unpin.
Block the letter before sewing on the appliqués. If they’re already attached, pin around them, never through the petals.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Finished size is 3.4 in (8.6 cm) x 4.0 in (10.2 cm).
- Both legs are 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide and match each other.
- The crossbar sits level, with matching gaps above and below.
- The border has 98 sts and no puckers at the inner corners.
- The honeycomb cells stagger evenly across the whole letter.
- Flowers, buds, and leaves are secure, with no loose petal tips.
- The jump ring is fully closed.
- All ends are woven in on the WS.
Troubleshooting
The legs lean or slant. You may be skipping or adding a stitch at the row ends. Count 5 sts at the end of every row.
The honeycomb looks flat. Your FPdc2 loops may be too short, or you may be working into the top of the stitch instead of around the post. Work around the post two rows below.
The letter is wavy. The FPdc2 loops are too long. Pull them up only to the height of the sc beside them.
The gaps are uneven. Check that Row 8 has exactly 5 ch and that you skipped exactly 5 sts before starting the second upper leg.
The inner corners ruffle. Make sure you worked sc2tog at all 4 inner corners.
The outer corners curl. Use 2 sc in the corner stitch, not 3.
The petals flip up. Tack each petal tip to the letter with one small stitch.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat. Don’t tumble dry, and don’t leave the metal rings soaking for long.
Final Notes
Here is how the measurements build up. One lower leg is 5 sts x 7 rows, or 1.0 in (2.5 cm) x 1.4 in (3.6 cm). The joined crossbar is 15 sts, or 3.0 in (7.6 cm) wide. Before the border, the letter is 3.0 in (7.6 cm) x 3.6 in (9.1 cm). One round of 98 border sts adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm) per side, for a finished keychain of 3.4 in (8.6 cm) x 4.0 in (10.2 cm).
If your test leg matches the gauge, every later checkpoint should match too. You can change the flower colors to suit a friend, or use this layout for other straight-sided letters.
Happy crocheting!