This hanging holder stacks three round cream baskets on two crocheted straps that meet in a triangle at the top. You hang it from a single wall peg, and each basket holds one standard toilet paper roll. The baskets have a solid cream base and cream sides with color bands: yellow puffs near the bottom, two green stripes around a row of cream puffs, and a row of sunny yellow shells under a cream rim.
The colors are cream, sunflower yellow, and leaf green, so it looks fresh and a little cottage-style. It suits a bright bathroom with plants and daisies. The pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
Each basket is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall. The baskets hang about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) apart. The finished holder hangs about 24 in (61.0 cm) from the peak of the triangle to the bottom of the lowest basket, not counting the small hanging loop.
You’ll make three identical baskets in the round, starting with a flat double crochet base, then working the sides straight up with no increases. Next you make two long single crochet straps. Last, you whipstitch the straps to opposite sides of each basket and join them at the top.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide x 24 in (61.0 cm) tall, plus the hanging loop
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked vertically, with 2 straps running up opposite sides
- Piece size: each basket is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) in diameter x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall; each strap is 25 in (63.5 cm) x 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
- Size before border: basket side is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall after Round 14
- Border depth: a 2-round rim, 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape well, so the baskets stay round and don’t stretch when you load them with rolls. Steer clear of very soft acrylic, because the baskets can sag.
- Cream (main color): 150 g, about 285 m
- Yellow: 40 g, about 76 m
- Green: 25 g, about 48 m
These quantities include a margin of about 20% for gauge swatches and color tails.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers (at least 4)
– Locking pins or clips for assembly
– Measuring tape
– Scissors
– Wall peg or hook
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- BLO: back loop only
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- MR: magic ring
- rep: repeat
Special stitch: Puff. Yarn over, insert the hook in the stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop to 0.5 in (1.3 cm) height. Repeat 3 more times in the same stitch (9 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through all 9 loops, then ch 1 to close. The puff counts as 1 stitch. On the next round, work into the top of the puff and skip the ch-1 closing.
Special stitch: Shell. Work 5 dc in the same stitch. Each dc counts as 1 stitch, so a shell is 5 stitches.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round.
Make one complete basket before you start the others. It’s your gauge swatch, and it shows whether a roll fits.
Checkpoints:
– After Round 1: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) in diameter
– After Round 3: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) in diameter
– After Round 5 (base done): 5.25 in (13.3 cm) in diameter, lying flat
– After Round 14: sides 3 in (7.6 cm) tall
– After Round 16: sides 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with a circumference of about 17.1 in (43.4 cm)
If your work is too big: go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small: go up to a 5.5 mm hook. A standard roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, so a basket under 5 in (12.7 cm) across will be too tight.
Basket (Make 3)
Begin with cream. At the end of every round, join with a sl st to the first stitch. The starting ch never counts as a stitch.
Base
Round 1: MR, ch 2, 12 dc in ring. Pull the ring closed, leaving a small center hole. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around. (24 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around. (36 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around. (48 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around. (60 sts)
The base should lie flat and measure 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across. If the edge ruffles, redo the round with a smaller hook. If it cups, use a larger one.
Sides
From here on the sides stay at 60 stitches, with no increases.
Round 6 (turning round): Ch 1, sc BLO in each st around. (60 sts) The unworked front loops form a crisp ridge, and the sides start to turn up.
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (60 sts) Change to yellow in the final yarn over of the joining sl st.
Round 8 (yellow puffs): Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, puff in next st; rep from * around. (40 sc + 20 puffs = 60 sts) Change to green.
Round 9 (green): Ch 1, sc in each st around, working into the top of each puff. (60 sts) Change to cream.
Round 10 (cream puffs): Ch 1, sc in next st, puff in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around. (40 sc + 20 puffs = 60 sts) These puffs sit one stitch to the right of the yellow puffs, so the two rows are offset. Change to green.
Round 11 (green): Ch 1, sc in each st around. (60 sts) Change to cream.
Round 12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (60 sts) Change to yellow.
Round 13 (yellow shells): Ch 1, sc in first st, skip 2 sts, shell in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ending the last rep with skip 2 sts and the joining sl st instead of the final sc. (10 shells of 5 dc + 10 sc = 60 sts) Change to cream.
Round 14: Ch 1, sc in each sc and in each dc around. (60 sts)
Checkpoint: the sides measure 3 in (7.6 cm) from the turning ridge. Don’t fasten off yet. Go straight on to the rim in the Border section.
Strap (Make 2)
Foundation: With cream, ch 89.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (88 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st in each st across. (88 sts) Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing.
Checkpoint: each strap is 25 in (63.5 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. At 3.5 sts per inch, 88 sts gives 25.1 in, which is 25 in once the strap relaxes. The slip stitch row stiffens the strap so it doesn’t stretch under the weight of the rolls.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, each using about 33 g cream, 10 g yellow, and 5 g green
- Straps: 2, each using about 7 g cream
- Totals used: about 113 g cream, 30 g yellow, and 15 g green, which leaves the stated margin
Layout grid (front view, top to bottom):
[loop]
/ \
strap A strap B
| Basket 3 | (top)
| gap |
| Basket 2 | (middle)
| gap |
| Basket 1 | (bottom)
Joining
Method: whipstitch with the strap tails, working through the strap and the outside of the basket wall.
Placing the straps: place a marker in stitch 1 and stitch 31 of Round 14 on each basket. With 60 stitches, these two points sit exactly opposite each other, 30 stitches apart. Both land on an sc in the shell round, so neither strap covers a shell.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: the strap and the basket sides share the same 3.5 sts per inch gauge, so 12 strap stitches cover the 3.5 in (8.9 cm) height of one basket wall. Number the strap stitches from the bottom end:
- Strap sts 1–12: Basket 1, from the turning ridge to the rim
- Strap sts 13–21: gap, 9 sts, about 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
- Strap sts 22–33: Basket 2
- Strap sts 34–42: gap, 9 sts
- Strap sts 43–54: Basket 3
- Strap sts 55–88: triangle leg, 34 sts, about 9.7 in (24.6 cm)
Pin each strap at the markers with the slip stitch side facing out. Whipstitch both long edges of the strap to the basket, going through one strap stitch for each basket round.
Tension advice: pull each stitch snug but not tight. If you pull too hard, the basket wall puckers. If the stitches are loose, the basket tilts once a roll is in it.
Top join: lay the last 1 in (2.5 cm) of strap A over the last 1 in of strap B and whipstitch them flat. Each leg is now about 8.7 in (22.1 cm), so the peak of the triangle sits about 8.25 in (21.0 cm) above Basket 3.
Hanging loop: join cream at the top of the overlap, ch 8, and sl st back into the same spot. Fasten off.
Size checkpoint: hang the holder. From the peak to the bottom of Basket 1 should measure about 24 in (61.0 cm), and the gaps should match within 0.25 in (0.6 cm).
Border (Basket Rim)
Each basket gets the 2-round rim right after Round 14, before you join it to the straps.
Border gauge: same as the sides, 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Round 15: with cream, ch 1, sc in each st around. (60 sts: 30 sts on the front half and 30 sts on the back half, counted between the strap markers at sts 1 and 31.)
Round 16: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. (60 sts, 30 per half) Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: the sides stay at 60 stitches from Round 6 to Round 16, so the rim matches the base edge stitch for stitch and won’t flare or pull in. Every pattern repeat divides 60 evenly: 20 puff repeats of 3 stitches and 10 shell repeats of 6 stitches. With 30 stitches on each half, the straps sit on the same stitch in every round, so all three baskets hang level.
Final Blocking
- Before joining, put a toilet roll in each basket, or a jar of the same size.
- Spray the baskets lightly with water until they are damp.
- Shape the puffs and shells with your fingers so they all point up.
- Let the baskets dry completely around the rolls, about 12 hours.
- Spray the straps, lay them flat and straight, and pin them at 25 in (63.5 cm).
- Let everything dry before you join the pieces.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base lies flat at 5.25 in (13.3 cm)
- Every basket round has 60 sts
- There are 20 yellow puffs, 20 cream puffs, and 10 shells per basket
- The rims measure 3.5 in (8.9 cm) high on all three baskets
- The straps are 25 in (63.5 cm) long and the same length as each other
- The straps sit exactly opposite each other, on stitches 1 and 31
- Both gaps measure 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
- The hanging loop is secure and all ends are woven in
Troubleshooting
- The base ruffles: you have too many stitches for your tension. Use a smaller hook for the base only.
- The base cups: your tension is too tight. Use a larger hook, or loosen your dc.
- The sides flare: check that every round has 60 sts. Missing a joining st often adds a stitch.
- The puffs lean or disappear: keep the loops even and the ch-1 closing firm. Skip that ch-1 on the next round.
- The shells crowd together: count the skipped stitches. It’s skip 2 on both sides of each shell.
- The basket tilts: the straps are off-center. Recheck the markers at sts 1 and 31.
- The roll won’t fit: the basket is under 5 in (12.7 cm) across. Go up a hook size.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping each basket around a roll. Don’t put it in the dryer, because cotton can shrink.
Final Notes
Here’s the full measurement chain. A 60-stitch base measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm). The 60-stitch sides build up to 3 in (7.6 cm) by Round 14 and reach 3.5 in (8.9 cm) with the 2-round rim. The 88-stitch straps measure 25 in (63.5 cm), split into 12-stitch basket sections, two 9-stitch gaps, and a 34-stitch leg. Together they make a holder about 24 in (61.0 cm) tall. If you check each stage as you go, the three baskets will hang straight and level.
Happy crocheting!