The Frost Lattice Table Runner is a crisp, all-white lace runner made of small square motifs set on point. The motifs touch only at their tips. The runner looks like a lattice of diamonds, with open diamond-shaped windows between them. Each short end has three full tassels with rounded heads, one hanging from each end tip.
The only color is a bright white cotton thread, which gives the piece a frosty, snowflake look on a wooden table. It suits Christmas and winter settings, but it works all year.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished runner measures 15 in (38.1 cm) wide and 40 in (101.6 cm) long across the motifs. With the 4 in (10.2 cm) tassels at both ends, it is 48 in (121.9 cm) long.
Construction is simple. You crochet 24 identical motifs of 5 rounds each. You join them on the last round, joining as you go at the corner tips. There is no separate border, because the last motif round is the finished edge. Six tassels go on at the end.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 15 in x 40 in (38.1 cm x 101.6 cm) without tassels; 15 in x 48 in (38.1 cm x 121.9 cm) with tassels
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Size 3 cotton crochet thread (light fingering / lace weight)
- Hook: 2.25 mm (US B-1)
- Number of pieces: 24 motifs, plus 6 tassels
- Layout: 3 motifs wide x 8 motifs long, each set on point
- Piece size: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) per side; 5 in (12.7 cm) tip to tip, blocked
- Size before border: 15 in x 40 in (38.1 cm x 101.6 cm)
- Border depth: 0 in (0 cm), because the motif edge is the border
Materials
Choose a mercerized cotton thread in size 3. Mercerized cotton gives clear stitches, blocks well and keeps the lace points sharp. Avoid acrylic for this piece, because it will not hold a blocked shape.
- White: 120 g (about 360 m / 394 yd) total
- Motifs: about 75 g (225 m)
- Tassels: about 25 g (75 m)
These amounts include a margin of about 20 g (60 m) for a test motif, joining and tassel trimming.
Tools:
- 2.25 mm (US B-1) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Sharp scissors
- Stiff card, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall, for tassels
- Blocking mats and rustproof pins
- Spray bottle with clean water
- Measuring tape or ruler
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sk: skip
- beg: beginning
- rep: repeat
- MR: magic ring
Special stitch, Tip Join: Ch 2. Insert the hook from front to back into the ch-4 tip loop of the finished motif next to it, sl st, then ch 2. This takes the place of the ch 4 at a corner tip and links the two motifs.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete motif first and block it before you start the full runner. Every final measurement depends on this one piece.
Checkpoints (measured gently flattened, before blocking):
- After Rnd 1: about 1 in (2.5 cm) across
- After Rnd 2: about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across, flower shape
- After Rnd 3: square, about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) per side
- After Rnd 4: about 3 in (7.6 cm) per side
- After Rnd 5, blocked: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) per side; 5 in (12.7 cm) tip to tip
If your motif is too big: go down to a 2.0 mm hook and check again. A motif just 0.25 in (0.6 cm) too long tip to tip adds 2 in (5.1 cm) to the runner length.
If your motif is too small: go up to a 2.5 mm hook. If the stitches look loose and gappy at that size, switch to a slightly heavier thread instead.
Motif (Make 24)
Each motif is worked in the round from the center out, with the right side facing you the whole time. Do not turn.
Rnd 1: Make a MR. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 15 dc in the ring. Pull the ring closed, leaving a small center hole. Sl st to top of beg ch-3. (16 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 5, sk next st, sc in next st, ch 5, sk next st; rep from * 6 more times. Sl st to first sc. (8 sc, 8 ch-5 loops)
This round makes the eight-petal flower. Each loop should arch outward without pulling on the center.
Rnd 3: Sl st into first ch-5 loop. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same loop. This is the first corner. Ch 2, 3 dc in next loop, ch 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next loop; rep from * 2 more times, then ch 2, 3 dc in last loop, ch 2. Sl st to top of beg ch-3. (36 dc: 4 corner groups of 6 dc and 4 side groups of 3 dc; 4 corner ch-3 sps, 8 ch-2 sps)
The motif is now square. Each side, between two corner ch-3 sps, holds 9 dc: 3 from one corner, 3 in the middle and 3 from the next corner.
Rnd 4: Sl st in next 2 dc and into corner ch-3 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work (2 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in same sp. Ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in next corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to * once more. Sl st to top of beg ch-3. (24 dc, 8 sc; 4 corner ch-5 sps, 4 side ch-5 sps, 8 ch-3 sps)
The side ch-5 skips over the 3-dc group of Rnd 3. This opens the lace windows on each side.
Rnd 5 (first motif only, no joins): Sl st in next 2 dc and into corner ch-5 sp. Ch 1, then work (3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc) in same sp. This is the first tip. Sc in next 3 dc, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, (3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc) in next ch-5 sp, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 3 dc, (3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc) in next corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to * once more. On that last repeat, work the final 3 sc into the beg ch-3 and the 2 dc under the sl sts. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (104 sc; 4 ch-4 tip loops, 4 ch-3 side picots)
Count per side after Rnd 5: 3 + 3 + 3 + 1 + 6 + 1 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 26 sc, plus 1 ch-3 picot at the center. The ch-4 tip loops sit between the sides and are not part of the 26.
Weave the center tail through Rnd 1 so the center hole stays neat.
Make All Pieces
All 24 motifs are white and identical. Only the joins on Rnd 5 change.
- First motif: 1, made in full with no joins
- Joined motifs: 23, joined on Rnd 5 with the Tip Join
Layout grid (columns A–C across, rows 1–8 down; each cell is one diamond):
A B C
1 ◇ - ◇ - ◇ <- tassels on top tips
| | |
2 ◇ - ◇ - ◇
| | |
3 ◇ - ◇ - ◇
| | |
4 ◇ - ◇ - ◇
| | |
5 ◇ - ◇ - ◇
| | |
6 ◇ - ◇ - ◇
| | |
7 ◇ - ◇ - ◇
| | |
8 ◇ - ◇ - ◇ <- tassels on bottom tips
A dash is a side-tip join (right tip to left tip). A bar is a top-to-bottom tip join. There are 16 side joins (2 per row x 8 rows) and 21 vertical joins (3 per column x 7 gaps), so 37 joins in all.
Joining
Method: join as you go on Rnd 5, at the corner tips only.
Work Rnds 1–4 of each new motif as written. On Rnd 5, work every side exactly as written. When you reach a corner that touches a finished motif, work (3 sc, Tip Join, 3 sc) instead of (3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc).
How the stitches line up: Each tip joins to exactly one other tip. The chains on either side of the sl st (ch 2 + ch 2) equal the ch 4 of an unjoined tip, so a joined tip is the same length as a free one. No stitches are added or skipped at any join, and each motif keeps 26 sc per side.
Order: Work row 1 from left to right (A1, B1, C1), then row 2, and so on.
- A1: no joins
- B1, C1: join the left tip to the right tip of the motif on the left
- A2–A8: join the top tip to the bottom tip of the motif above
- All other motifs: join the top tip first, then the left tip
Start Rnd 5 at the right tip. Working counterclockwise, the top tip and then the left tip come next, so both joins come up in order.
Tension: Keep the Tip Join sl st loose. A tight sl st pulls the two tips into a pucker. Do not pull the ch 2 tight against the other motif.
Size checkpoint: After row 2, lay the piece flat. It should measure about 15 in (38.1 cm) across and 10 in (25.4 cm) from top tip to bottom tip. If it doesn’t, check your hook and tension before you go on.
Border
This runner has no separate border round. The edge of the finished piece is the motif’s own Rnd 5, so the border is built into every motif.
Border gauge: 26 sc plus 1 picot over 3.5 in (8.9 cm) per side, which is about 7.4 sc per inch (2.5 cm).
Edge counts (the edges meet at the outer corner tips):
- Each long edge, from the left tip of A1 to the left tip of A8: 14 exposed sides (1 on A1, 2 each on A2–A7, 1 on A8). That is 14 x 26 = 364 sc and 14 picots, with 8 free side tips and 7 vertical joins.
- Each short end, from the left tip of A1 to the right tip of C1: 3 motifs x 2 exposed sides = 6 sides. That is 6 x 26 = 156 sc and 6 picots, with 3 free end tips for tassels and 2 side joins.
- Whole outline: 2 x 364 + 2 x 156 = 1,040 sc, which equals 40 exposed sides x 26 sc.
Why the math works: Every exposed side has the same 26 sc. Every tip has the same 3 sc + ch 4 + 3 sc corner, or its joined match. The zigzag edge has no extra stitches to make it ruffle and none missing to pull it in, so it lies flat after blocking. The 6 sc packed into each corner ch-5 sp make the sharp point.
Tassels (Make 6)
- Cut a 12 in (30.5 cm) tie strand and set it aside.
- Wrap thread 40 times around the 4.5 in (11.4 cm) card.
- Slide the tie strand under the wraps at the top and knot it tightly. Leave the ends long.
- Cut the wraps at the bottom edge of the card.
- Cut a 16 in (40.6 cm) strand for wrapping. About 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the top, wrap it tightly 8 times to form a rounded head. Knot it and hide the ends inside the tassel.
- Trim the bottom evenly so the whole tassel is 4 in (10.2 cm) long.
Use the tie strand ends to tie one tassel through each free ch-4 tip loop at both short ends. These are the top tips of A1, B1 and C1 and the bottom tips of A8, B8 and C8. Knot securely and bury the tails in the tassel.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends along the sc edges, not across the open windows.
- Soak the runner in cool water for 10 minutes. Press out the water gently; do not wring.
- Lay it flat on blocking mats. Pin the outer side tips first, to a width of 15 in (38.1 cm).
- Pin the top and bottom tips to a length of 40 in (101.6 cm).
- Pin every joined tip in a straight line, so each column and row is true.
- Pin each ch-3 picot so the open diamonds between motifs block evenly.
- Let it dry completely, then unpin.
- Steam or comb the tassels gently so they hang straight.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 24 motifs, each with 104 sc, 4 tip loops and 4 picots
- Every motif 3.5 in (8.9 cm) per side and 5 in (12.7 cm) tip to tip
- 37 tip joins, none twisted
- All open windows are matching diamonds
- Width 15 in (38.1 cm); length 40 in (101.6 cm) without tassels
- 6 tassels, all 4 in (10.2 cm) long and level
- Length with tassels 48 in (121.9 cm)
- No visible ends or knots
Troubleshooting
The center bulges. The Rnd 1 ring wasn’t closed fully, or the Rnd 2 loops are too short. Close the ring fully and keep the ch-5 loops relaxed.
Corners are rounded, not pointed. Make sure all 6 sc go into the corner ch-5 sp with the ch 4 between them. Pin the tips firmly when blocking.
A join puckers. The sl st is too tight. Remove it, rework it loosely, and keep both ch-2 sections relaxed.
A column drifts sideways. A vertical join went to the wrong tip. Check the grid and make sure each motif joins top to bottom in the same column.
Motifs are different sizes. Your tension changed. Measure each motif against the first one, and remake any that are off by more than 0.125 in (0.3 cm) per side.
Tassels look thin. Add more wraps, up to 50, using the same card.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent and lay flat to dry, pinning the tips if needed. To refresh the points, press lightly with a warm iron through a cloth.
Final Notes
Here is the chain of measurements. Rnd 1 is 1 in (2.5 cm) across. Rnd 3 squares off at 2.25 in (5.7 cm). Rnd 5 finishes at 3.5 in (8.9 cm) per side and 5 in (12.7 cm) tip to tip. Three motifs across make 15 in (38.1 cm), and eight motifs down make 40 in (101.6 cm). Two sets of 4 in (10.2 cm) tassels bring the total length to 48 in (121.9 cm).
Check your first motif carefully, keep your joins relaxed and block with care, and the lattice will stay crisp and even.
Happy crocheting!