This hanging organizer has three lacy cream baskets, one above the other on natural wooden dowels. Each basket is a shallow oval pocket. It is deep enough for folded tea towels, a paperback, glasses or a phone, and slim enough to sit flat against a wall.
The baskets are worked in one color, a soft cream cotton, so the texture does the work. Each one has a solid single-crochet base, walls of stacked V-stitches that form downward-pointing arrow columns, a firm rim band and a small scalloped trim around the bottom edge. Chunky corded side cords and a triangle hanger finish the look.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished organizer measures about 14 in (35.6 cm) wide at the dowels and 32 in (81.3 cm) tall from the top of the hanger to the bottom of the lowest basket. Each basket is 10.5 in (26.7 cm) wide, 2.25 in (5.7 cm) deep and 6 in (15.2 cm) tall.
Construction is simple. Each basket starts with an oval base worked in the round and turns up into walls with a back-loop round. Then come the lace rounds and the rim. A short flap on the back wraps around a dowel. The scallop trim goes into the free loops at the base edge. Three cords and four dowels join everything into one piece.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished organizer: 14 in (35.6 cm) wide x 32 in (81.3 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate (oval in the round, front-post stitches)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton or cotton-blend cord yarn
- Hook: 6 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 6 crocheted pieces (3 baskets, 2 side cords, 1 hanger cord), plus 4 dowels
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets, hung vertically
- Piece size (one basket): 10.5 in (26.7 cm) wide x 2.25 in (5.7 cm) deep x 6 in (15.2 cm) tall
- Size before border: the same as above. The scallop trim hangs below the base edge and does not change the basket’s height.
- Border depth: scallops are 0.75 in (1.9 cm) deep
Materials
Yarn: Use a bulky (#5) cotton or a cotton/recycled-cotton cord yarn. It needs a smooth, firm twist so the arrow lace keeps its shape. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarn, because the baskets have to carry weight without sagging. These amounts assume about 150 m (164 yd) per 100 g.
- Cream: 400 g (600 m / 656 yd) in total
- Each basket uses about 100 g (150 m)
- All three cords together use about 25 g (38 m)
The total actually used is about 325 g (488 m). The 400 g figure includes a margin of about 20% for gauge differences and swatching.
Tools:
- 6 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- 4 wooden dowels, 3/4 in (1.9 cm) across and 14 in (35.6 cm) long
- Tapestry needle
- 8 stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
- Blocking pins and a spray bottle
- A wall hook rated for at least 11 lb (5 kg)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- fpdc – front post double crochet: yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch, and complete a dc
- BLO – back loop only
- FLO – front loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- sk – skip
- rep – repeat
- RS – right side
Special stitch – V-stitch (V-st): (dc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch or space. Each V-st counts as 3 stitches: 2 dc plus 1 ch-1 space.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Sc gauge: 12 sc x 13 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Lace gauge: 3 lace repeats (12 sts) = 4 in (10.2 cm) wide, and 8 lace rounds = 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall.
Make one complete basket before starting the others. It is your real swatch.
Checkpoints:
- The foundation chain of 27 should measure about 9 in (22.9 cm).
- After Rnd 3, the base should measure about 10.5 in x 2.25 in (26.7 x 5.7 cm).
- After Rnd 5, the walls should stand about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 13, the walls should be about 5.1 in (13.0 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 16, the basket should be 6 in (15.2 cm) tall.
If your basket is too big: go down to a 5.5 mm hook. If it is too small: go up to a 6.5 mm hook. If only the lace rounds are too tall, work them with a slightly tighter tension, or leave out one Lace Rnd 2 and add 1 sc round to the rim.
Basket (Make 3)
Oval Base
Ch 27.
Rnd 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 24 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate and work along the other side of the foundation chain: sc in next 24 ch, then sc in the same ch as the first 2 sc. Sl st to first sc. (54 sts: 24 per long side, 3 per end)
Rnd 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each of first 2 sts, sc in next 24 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 24 sts, 2 sc in last st. Sl st to first sc. (60 sts: 24 per long side, 6 per end)
Rnd 3: Ch 1. Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts (5 sts made). Sc in next 24 sts. [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st] twice (8 sts made). Sc in next 24 sts. Sc in next st, 2 sc in last st (3 sts made). Sl st to first sc. (64 sts: 24 per long side, 8 per end)
Stitches 6–29 of Rnd 3 are the front side. Stitches 38–61 are the back side. Place a marker in st 6 and another in st 38.
Walls
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, sl st to first sc. (64 sts) This round turns the work upward to form the walls. It also leaves the front loops of Rnd 3 free for the scallop trim.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (64 sts)
Arrow Lace
Rnd 6 (Lace Rnd 1): Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk next st, V-st in next st, sk next st. Dc in next st, sk next st, V-st in next st, sk next st; rep from * 14 more times. Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (16 repeats = 64 sts:* 16 dc + 16 V-sts of 3 sts each)
Rnd 7 (Lace Rnd 2): Ch 3 (counts as fpdc), V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st. Fpdc around next dc, V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st; rep from * 14 more times. Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (64 sts)*
Rnds 8–13: Rep Lace Rnd 2 six more times. (64 sts each round)
Each V sits directly on top of the V below it. Together they make open columns of downward-pointing arrows. The fpdc spines between the columns pop forward and frame each arrow.
Rim
Rnd 14 (conversion): Ch 1. Sc in each fpdc, dc and ch-1 sp around. Sl st to first sc. (64 sts = 64 worked one per existing stitch + 0 added)
Rnds 15–16: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (64 sts) Do not fasten off.
Checkpoint: the basket should stand 6 in (15.2 cm) tall and lie flat at about 10.5 in (26.7 cm) wide.
Dowel Flap
Fasten off. Lay the basket flat with the front facing you, and find the 24 back-side stitches of Rnd 16. They sit directly above the marked back stitches of Rnd 3.
Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn in the first back-side st. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 23 sts. Turn. (24 sc)
Rows 2–6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (24 sc)
The flap measures 8 in (20.3 cm) wide x 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall. Fasten off and leave a 20 in (50.8 cm) tail for sewing.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, in cream (about 100 g / 150 m each)
- Side cords: 2, in cream
- Hanger cord: 1, in cream
- Dowels: 4
Side cord (make 2): Loosely ch 102. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and of each ch across. The cord should measure 34 in (86.4 cm). Fasten off and leave 8 in (20.3 cm) tails.
Hanger cord (make 1): Loosely ch 72. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and of each ch across. The cord should measure 24 in (61.0 cm). Fasten off and leave 8 in (20.3 cm) tails.
Layout grid (top to bottom):
/\ hanger cord over wall hook
/ \
o==============o Dowel 1 (hanger dowel)
| | 3 in (7.6 cm) gap
o==[Basket A]==o Dowel 2 in flap of Basket A
| [ arrows ] |
| | 8.5 in (21.6 cm) dowel to dowel
o==[Basket B]==o Dowel 3 in flap of Basket B
| [ arrows ] |
| | 8.5 in (21.6 cm) dowel to dowel
o==[Basket C]==o Dowel 4 in flap of Basket C
[ arrows ]
~~~~~~~~~~ scallops
Joining
Method: Each basket joins to its dowel by sewing a flap. The baskets then join to each other through the side cords.
Flap seam (stitch to stitch): Lay a dowel along the top of the back rim, centered so 3 in (7.6 cm) sticks out on each side. Fold the flap over the dowel toward the inside of the basket. Row 6 of the flap now lines up with the 24 back stitches of Rnd 14. Whipstitch them together one to one: flap stitch 1 to back stitch 1, and so on through stitch 24. That is 24 stitches sewn to 24 stitches, with nothing added or skipped. Repeat for all three baskets.
Tension: The flap should hug the dowel firmly without bunching. If the dowel rolls freely, your seam is too loose. If the rim puckers, your seam is too tight. Pull each whipstitch snug, but no tighter than the crochet stitches around it.
Cords: Start 1 in (2.5 cm) from the left tip of the hanger dowel. Leave a 2 in (5.1 cm) tail, wrap one side cord once fully around the dowel, and sew the cord to itself with its tail. Run the cord down 3 in (7.6 cm) and wrap it around Basket A’s dowel in the same way. Continue 8.5 in (21.6 cm) to Basket B’s dowel and another 8.5 in (21.6 cm) to Basket C’s dowel. Sew each wrap in place. Repeat on the right side with the second cord, matching each wrap’s height to the left side.
Hanger: Wrap each end of the hanger cord around the hanger dowel just outside the side cords, and sew it in place. The cord forms a triangle that peaks about 6 in (15.2 cm) above the dowel.
Size checkpoint: The distance from the hanger dowel to the bottom of Basket C should be 3 + 8.5 + 8.5 + 6 = 26 in (66.0 cm). Add the 6 in (15.2 cm) peak and the total is 32 in (81.3 cm). All dowels should sit level.
Border: Scallop Trim
The border is worked separately on each basket. It is not worked across joined pieces, so no seam stitches come into play.
Border gauge: 1 scallop takes 4 free loops and hangs 0.75 in (1.9 cm) deep.
Starting count per section: There are 64 free front loops of Rnd 3: 24 on each long side and 8 on each end. Nothing is added at the turns, because the oval has no corners.
Scallop Rnd: Turn the basket upside down. Join yarn with a sl st in the free front loop at the marker (st 6, the first front-side stitch). *Sk 1 loop, 5 dc in next loop, sk 1 loop, sl st in next loop; rep from * 15 more times. The last sl st lands in the joining sl st. Fasten off.
Counts: 16 scallops in total: 6 along the front side, 2 around the first end, 6 along the back side and 2 around the second end.
Why the math works: Each scallop takes exactly 4 loops. Each long side has 24 loops, and 24 ÷ 4 = 6 scallops. Each end has 8 loops, and 8 ÷ 4 = 2 scallops. In total, 6 + 2 + 6 + 2 = 16 scallops, and 16 x 4 = 64 loops, which is all of Rnd 3. The pattern closes evenly with no leftover loops and no squeezed scallop.
Final Blocking
- Weave in every tail, sewing through the stitches it runs along.
- Mist each basket until it is damp, not soaked.
- Stuff each basket with a folded towel to 2.25 in (5.7 cm) deep and 10.5 in (26.7 cm) wide.
- Open the arrow lace with your fingers so each V is centered over the one below it.
- Pin the scallops flat on a towel so they fan evenly.
- Leave everything to dry completely, usually 12–24 hours.
- Hang the organizer and adjust the cord wraps until every dowel is level.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Each basket has 64 sts in every round from Rnd 3 to Rnd 16.
- [ ] Each basket has 16 arrow columns, with every V stacked straight.
- [ ] Each basket is 6 in (15.2 cm) tall and 10.5 in (26.7 cm) wide.
- [ ] Each flap is sewn 24 sts to 24 sts and grips its dowel firmly.
- [ ] There are 16 even scallops on every basket.
- [ ] The dowels are 3 in (7.6 cm), then 8.5 in (21.6 cm), then 8.5 in (21.6 cm) apart.
- [ ] Both side cords sit at matching heights, and every dowel hangs level.
- [ ] All tails are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
The base cups or ruffles: If it cups, your increases are too tight. If it ruffles, your tension is too loose. Redo Rnd 3, or change hook size.
The lace columns slant: You missed or added a stitch at the join. Each round should start with ch 3 directly above the beginning ch-3 of the round before.
The basket sags forward: The yarn is too stretchy, or the flap seam is loose. Restitch the seam more firmly, or add a 5th sc round to the rim.
The scallops are crowded: You worked into back loops or skipped Rnd 3. Work only in the free front loops of Rnd 3.
The dowels tilt: Measure each cord wrap from the dowel above it and resew.
The cord is too short: Your chains were tight. Remake the cord with a hook 1 mm larger.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay the baskets flat to dry, reshaping them over a towel. Remove the dowels before washing, and don’t overload any one basket.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short and checkable. A 9 in (22.9 cm) chain gives a 10.5 x 2.25 in (26.7 x 5.7 cm) base of 64 sts. Those 64 sts carry through 16 arrow repeats up to a 6 in (15.2 cm) wall. An 8 in (20.3 cm) flap holds each basket on its dowel, and 16 scallops of 4 loops each finish the base edge. With the cords spaced at 3 in (7.6 cm) and two gaps of 8.5 in (21.6 cm), the organizer comes out at 32 in (81.3 cm) tall. Check each number as you go, and the finished piece will hang straight and hold its shape.
Happy crocheting!