This little letter E keychain looks like a pressed garden in your pocket. A dense, deep-green letter is the base. A pale green vine climbs down it, with cream elderflower-style blossoms, pointed leaves and tiny French-knot buds along the way.
The palette is simple: dark forest green for the letter, light green for the vine and leaves, cream for the flowers and buds, and a touch of yellow for the flower centers. A gold split ring finishes it.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished letter measures 3.2 in (8.1 cm) wide by 4.2 in (10.7 cm) tall, not counting the hanging tab.
You’ll work the E flat in rows of single crochet, from the bottom up, shaping the arms by leaving stitches unworked and adding chains. One border round of single crochet and one round of slip stitches give it a smooth, corded rim. After that, you add a hanging tab, crochet the flowers and leaves, and finish with embroidery.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 3.2 in x 4.2 in (8.1 cm x 10.7 cm), plus a 0.6 in (1.5 cm) tab
- Skill level: Easy-Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK (#3) cotton
- Hook: 3.0 mm
- Number of pieces: 1 letter + 3 flowers + 5 leaves (all sewn onto the letter)
- Layout: a single letter E, with the spine on the left
- Letter size before border: 2.8 in x 3.8 in (7.1 cm x 9.7 cm)
- Border depth: 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every edge
Materials
Choose a smooth, mercerized or combed DK cotton. It gives crisp stitches and a firm fabric that won’t stretch on a key ring. Avoid fuzzy or very soft yarns, because the letter needs to hold its shape.
- Dark forest green (A): 10 g, about 21 m
- Cream (B): 4 g, about 8 m
- Light green (C): 3 g, about 6 m
- Yellow (D): 1 g, about 2 m
These quantities include a margin for a gauge swatch and sewing tails.
Tools:
– 3.0 mm crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Sharp embroidery needle
– Gold split ring, 1 in (2.5 cm)
– Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
– Small spray bottle
– Stitch marker
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – sc2tog across an inner corner: Insert the hook into the last stitch of one edge and pull up a loop. Insert the hook into the first row-end of the next edge and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 5 sc and 5 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) in Yarn A with a 3.0 mm hook.
Make a swatch of 10 sc by 10 rows. It should measure 2 in (5.1 cm) square. Because the letter is the only large piece, treat Rows 1–3 of the letter as your second test.
Checkpoints:
– After Row 3: 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide, 0.6 in (1.5 cm) tall
– After Row 8: 1.6 in (4.1 cm) tall
– After Row 11: 2.2 in (5.6 cm) tall; the middle arm is 2.4 in (6.1 cm) wide
– After Row 19: 2.8 in x 3.8 in (7.1 cm x 9.7 cm)
– After the border: 3.2 in x 4.2 in (8.1 cm x 10.7 cm)
If your piece is too big, go down to a 2.75 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 3.25 mm hook. Always check again after Row 3.
The Letter E
Use Yarn A. The turning ch-1 never counts as a stitch.
Right-handed crocheters: Row 1 ends at the left edge, which is the spine side. Left-handed crocheters: your piece will be mirrored while you work. Simply flip it before adding the border so the spine is on the left.
Bottom arm
Foundation: Ch 15.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (14 sc)
Rows 2–3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (14 sc)
Row 3 ends at the left (spine) edge.
Lower gap
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in the first 5 sts. Leave the remaining 9 sts unworked. (5 sc)
Rows 5–8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Row 8 ends at the right edge of the spine. Don’t fasten off.
Middle arm
At the end of Row 8, ch 8. This is 7 chains for the arm plus 1 turning chain.
Row 9: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 6 ch (7 sc), then sc in each of the 5 spine sts. (12 sc)
Rows 10–11: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (12 sc)
Row 11 ends at the left edge.
Checkpoint: The piece is 2.2 in (5.6 cm) tall, and the middle arm is 2.4 in (6.1 cm) wide.
Upper gap
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in the first 5 sts. Leave the remaining 7 sts unworked. (5 sc)
Rows 13–16: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Row 16 ends at the right edge of the spine.
Top arm
At the end of Row 16, ch 10. This is 9 chains for the arm plus 1 turning chain.
Row 17: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 8 ch (9 sc), then sc in each of the 5 spine sts. (14 sc)
Rows 18–19: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (14 sc)
Don’t fasten off. Check that the piece measures 2.8 in x 3.8 in (7.1 cm x 9.7 cm).
Row summary:
| Section | Rows | Height |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom arm | 1–3 (3 rows) | 0.6 in / 1.5 cm |
| Lower gap | 4–8 (5 rows) | 1.0 in / 2.5 cm |
| Middle arm | 9–11 (3 rows) | 0.6 in / 1.5 cm |
| Upper gap | 12–16 (5 rows) | 1.0 in / 2.5 cm |
| Top arm | 17–19 (3 rows) | 0.6 in / 1.5 cm |
| Total | 19 rows | 3.8 in / 9.7 cm |
Border
Border gauge: You work 1 sc into every stitch or row-end. Since the gauge is 5 sts and 5 rows per inch, one row-end is the same size as one stitch. That keeps the edges flat.
Each corner where the letter turns outward is a convex corner: work 3 sc into it, which is the edge stitch plus 2 extra. Each corner where the letter turns inward is a concave corner: work an sc2tog across it, which is 1 fewer than the edges would give.
The E has 8 convex corners and 4 concave corners.
Round 1: Ch 1. Do not turn. Work down the left edge with 1 sc in each row-end. Then work around the whole letter counterclockwise, putting 3 sc in each convex corner and an sc2tog at each concave corner. Join with a sl st to the first sc.
Edge counts for Round 1 (stitches or row-ends worked into):
| Edge | Count |
|---|---|
| Left edge (spine) | 19 |
| Bottom edge (foundation chain loops) | 14 |
| Right end of bottom arm | 3 |
| Top of bottom arm (unworked sts) | 9 |
| Spine, lower gap | 5 |
| Underside of middle arm (ch loops) | 7 |
| Right end of middle arm | 3 |
| Top of middle arm (unworked sts) | 7 |
| Spine, upper gap | 5 |
| Underside of top arm (ch loops) | 9 |
| Right end of top arm | 3 |
| Top edge | 14 |
| Edge total | 98 |
Round 1 total: 98 edge sc + 16 extra corner sc (8 corners x 2) − 4 (one sc2tog at each of the 4 concave corners) = 110 sc.
Round 2: Ch 1. Work a loose sl st in each st around. Join to the first sl st. (110 sl st) Fasten off and weave in the ends.
This slip-stitch round makes the smooth, corded rim. Keep it loose so the edges don’t pucker.
Why the math works: Round 1 adds one stitch of width on each side, so the width becomes 14 + 2 = 16 sts. At 5 sts per inch, that’s 3.2 in (8.1 cm). The height becomes 19 + 2 = 21 rows, which is 4.2 in (10.7 cm). Round 2 adds no measurable size. Each gap loses one border stitch from above and one from below, so the visible slots are 3 rows, or 0.6 in (1.5 cm), tall.
Hanging Tab
With the RS facing, find the top-left corner. Count 2 sts to the right of the 3 corner stitches and join Yarn A in the next st. Work into the sl sts of Round 2.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the same st and the next 2 sts. (3 sc)
Rows 2–6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (3 sc)
The tab is now 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1.2 in (3.0 cm) long. Slide the split ring onto it. Fold the tab to the WS and whipstitch Row 6 to the base of the tab. The folded tab stands 0.6 in (1.5 cm) above the letter.
Flowers (Make 3)
Center: With Yarn D, make a magic ring. Ch 1 and work 5 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the first sc. (5 sc) Fasten off Yarn D.
Petals: Join Yarn B in any sc. In the same st, work (ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st). Then work (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in each of the next 4 sts. (5 petals)
Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Each flower measures about 0.9 in (2.3 cm) across.
Leaves (Make 5)
With Yarn C, ch 6.
Round 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sl st, sc, hdc, hdc, sc (5 sts). Ch 1 for the tip. Turn the leaf and work along the other side of the chain: sc, hdc, hdc, sc, sl st (5 sts). Join with a sl st to the first sl st. (10 sts + ch-1 tip)
Fasten off and leave a tail. Each leaf is about 1.0 in (2.5 cm) long. The foundation chain forms a center vein down the leaf.
Assembly and Embroidery
Lay the letter flat with the spine on the left. Pin the pieces in place before you sew anything.
- Top flower: Place it at the top-left corner, where the top arm meets the spine.
- Middle flower: Place it on the spine at the middle-arm junction.
- Bottom flower: Place it near the right end of the bottom arm.
- Leaves:
- one on the top arm, pointing right
- one on the upper spine, pointing left
- one on the middle arm, to the right of the middle flower
- one at the lower-left corner
- one on the bottom arm, between the corner and the bottom flower
- Sewing: Sew each flower around its center with Yarn D. Then tack the petal tips with Yarn B. Sew each leaf down its center vein with Yarn C.
- Vine: With Yarn C and the embroidery needle, chain-stitch a gently curving vine. Start under the top flower, run down the spine past the middle flower, and curve along the bottom arm to the bottom flower. Tuck the vine under the edges of the leaves.
- Buds: Using Yarn C, make short straight-stitch stems of 0.2–0.4 in (0.5–1.0 cm) off the vine near each flower. At the tip of each stem, make a French knot with Yarn B, wrapping the yarn 3 times. Work clusters of 4–6 buds, for about 15 buds in total.
Keep all your stitches inside the green fabric so nothing shows on the back.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the letter until it’s damp, not wet.
- Pin it face down on the blocking mat at 3.2 in x 4.2 in (8.1 cm x 10.7 cm). Use the grid lines to keep the edges straight.
- Put one pin in each outer corner and one in each concave corner so the slots stay square.
- Ease the outer corners into soft, even curves.
- Let it dry completely, at least 6 hours.
- Unpin it, turn it face up and gently puff the petals with your fingertips.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The letter measures 3.2 in x 4.2 in (8.1 cm x 10.7 cm).
- The spine is 1.2 in (3.0 cm) wide including the border, and all the arms are the same height.
- Border Round 1 has 110 sc, and Round 2 has 110 sl st.
- The corded rim is even, with no puckers at the corners.
- The tab is securely sewn and the ring turns freely.
- There are 3 flowers, 5 leaves and about 15 buds, all firmly attached.
- No loose ends show on the front.
Troubleshooting
- The arms slant or curl: Your tension changed between the spine rows and the arm rows. Block firmly, and keep the turning chain snug.
- The border ruffles: Your slip stitches are too tight, or you added extra corner stitches. Recount Round 1 and loosen Round 2.
- The border pulls in at the gaps: You skipped the concave-corner decreases or missed row-ends. There should be 5 sc along each gap.
- The petals flop: Tack each petal tip down, and use a firm cotton.
- French knots pull through: Wrap 3 times, and come back down one fabric thread away from where you came up.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press out the water in a towel and dry flat. Don’t wring it, because that can distort the letter and loosen the knots.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple:
– Gauge of 5 sts and 5 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm)
– Letter before the border: 14 sts by 19 rows, or 2.8 in x 3.8 in (7.1 cm x 9.7 cm)
– Border Round 1: 110 sc, adding 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on each edge
– Finished letter: 3.2 in x 4.2 in (8.1 cm x 10.7 cm), plus a 0.6 in (1.5 cm) tab
If you check each step against these numbers, your little botanical E will come out crisp, flat and ready to clip to your keys.
Happy crocheting!