This little evergreen is a flat Christmas tree you can hang on a doorknob, a cabinet handle, a wreath hook or a nail on the wall. It has three stepped tiers, and each tier carries a row of plump bobbles that look like round ornaments: eight on the bottom tier, six in the middle and four near the top.
It’s made in one color, a deep teal or pine green. Bobbles, eyelet rows and solid rows give it texture, and a rope-like border around the edge keeps the outline crisp. It looks festive without being busy.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished tree is about 8 in (20.3 cm) wide and 11.2 in (28.4 cm) tall. The hanging loop adds about 2 in (5.1 cm) more.
Here’s how it’s built. You crochet the tree as one flat piece in rows, starting from a foundation chain at the bottom tier and working upward to the tip. You then work the trunk down from the center of the foundation chain. Two border rounds go around the whole outline, and the hanging loop is added last.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 8 in (20.3 cm) wide × 11.2 in (28.4 cm) tall, not counting the loop
- Skill level: Intermediate (bobbles, shaping, extension stitches)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 4.0 mm (US G-6)
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: One flat tree with three tiers and a centered trunk
- Size before border: 7.5 in (19.1 cm) × 10.7 in (27.2 cm)
- Border depth: about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on every edge
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton shows off the bobbles clearly and stays flat when it hangs. Soft acrylic also works, but the bobbles will look a little rounder and softer.
- Deep teal / pine green: 50 g, about 90 m (98 yd)
This amount includes a margin for your gauge swatch and small tension differences.
Tools:
- 4.0 mm (US G-6) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- 2 locking stitch markers
- Ruler or tape measure
- Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
- Spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- dc2tog – double crochet 2 together
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitches
Bobble: [Yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops] 5 times in the same stitch. You now have 6 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops. A bobble counts as 1 stitch. Bobbles are only worked on WS rows, so they push out toward the RS.
Ext sc (extension single crochet): Insert hook into the base chain of the last sc you made, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop (this forms the new base chain), yarn over, pull through 2 loops. This adds 1 stitch beyond the end of the row.
Turning chains: The ch 1 on sc rows and the ch 2 on dc rows do not count as stitches.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), 18 sc rows = 4 in (10.2 cm), and 8 dc rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Work Tier 1 as your test. It is short, it shows your stitch gauge right away, and the rest of the tree builds directly on it.
- After Row 1: 30 sc should measure 7.5 in (19.1 cm).
- After Row 8 (end of Tier 1): the tier is about 2.6 in (6.6 cm) tall, and the top edge is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide.
- After Row 16 (end of Tier 2): the body is about 5.2 in (13.2 cm) tall.
- After Row 31 (tip): the body is about 9.4 in (23.9 cm) tall.
- After the trunk: the total height is 10.7 in (27.2 cm).
If Row 1 is wider than 7.5 in (19.1 cm), go down half a hook size. If it’s narrower, go up half a size. If your row height is off but your width is right, the tree will still look correct. Only the final height will change slightly.
Pattern
Tier 1 (8 bobbles)
Ch 31.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (30 sts)
Row 2 (WS, eyelet): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next st, *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 12 times total, dc in next st, dc2tog, turn. (28 sts: 26 dc and dc2tog, plus 2 ch-1 sps… see note below)
Row 2 (WS, eyelet): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next st, *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 12 times total, dc in next st, dc2tog, turn. (28 sts, counting each ch-1 sp as 1 st)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across, turn. (28 sts)
Row 4 (WS, bobble): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next st, bobble, *dc in next 2 sts, bobble; repeat from * 7 times total, dc in next st, dc2tog, turn. (26 sts, including 8 bobbles)
Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (26 sts)
Row 6 (WS, eyelet): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next st, *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 10 times total, dc in next st, dc2tog, turn. (24 sts)
Row 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across, turn. (24 sts)
Row 8 (WS): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (22 sts)
Checkpoint: the top edge measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
Tier 2 (6 bobbles)
Row 9 (RS): Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch (2 sts added), sc in each of the 22 sts, ext sc twice (2 sts added), turn. (26 sts)
This row adds 2 stitches beyond each side of Tier 1. Those extra stitches form the overhanging tier points. The new base measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm).
Row 10 (WS, eyelet): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next st, *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 10 times total, dc in next st, dc2tog, turn. (24 sts)
Row 11 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across, turn. (24 sts)
Row 12 (WS, bobble): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts, bobble, *dc in next 2 sts, bobble; repeat from * 5 times total, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. (22 sts, including 6 bobbles)
Row 13 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (22 sts)
Row 14 (WS, eyelet): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next st, *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 8 times total, dc in next st, dc2tog, turn. (20 sts)
Row 15 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across, turn. (20 sts)
Row 16 (WS): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (18 sts)
Checkpoint: the body measures about 5.2 in (13.2 cm) tall, and the top edge measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
Tier 3 (4 bobbles and tip)
Row 17 (RS): Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, sc in each of the 18 sts, ext sc twice, turn. (22 sts, 5.5 in / 14.0 cm wide)
Row 18 (WS, eyelet): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next st, *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 8 times total, dc in next st, dc2tog, turn. (20 sts)
Row 19 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across, turn. (20 sts)
Row 20 (WS, bobble): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts, bobble, *dc in next 2 sts, bobble; repeat from * 3 times total, dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, turn. (18 sts, including 4 bobbles)
Row 21 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (18 sts)
Row 22 (WS, eyelet): Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next st, *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 6 times total, dc in next st, dc2tog, turn. (16 sts)
Row 23 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp across, turn. (16 sts)
Rows 24–29: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. The stitch counts are 14, 12, 10, 8, 6 and 4.
Row 30: Ch 1, sc2tog twice, turn. (2 sts)
Row 31: Ch 1, sc2tog. (1 st) Fasten off.
Checkpoint: the body measures about 9.4 in (23.9 cm) from the foundation chain to the tip.
Eyelet row math: Each eyelet row starts with 3 stitches (dc2tog + dc) and ends with 3 stitches (dc + dc2tog). Each repeat uses 2 stitches. So the number of repeats is (previous count − 6) ÷ 2. For Row 2, that’s (30 − 6) ÷ 2 = 12.
Trunk
Turn the tree upside down with the RS facing you. Along the underside of the foundation chain there are 30 loops. Count 12 loops in from the right-hand corner and join yarn in the 13th loop.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the same loop and in the next 5 loops, turn. (6 sts)
That leaves 12 unworked loops on each side of the trunk.
Rows 2–6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6 sts)
The trunk measures 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide and about 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall. Do not fasten off.
Checkpoint: the total height is 10.7 in (27.2 cm), and the widest point is 7.5 in (19.1 cm).
Border
Border gauge: Work 1 sc per stitch, 1 sc per sc row-end and 2 sc per dc row-end. Work 3 sc at each outer point.
Rnd 1 (RS): Turn so the RS faces you and ch 1. Work the outline in this order, with the counts shown for each section:
- Trunk bottom: 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 4 sts, 3 sc in the last st. (10)
- Trunk side: 1 sc in each of the 6 row-ends. (6)
- Tier 1 underside: sc in the 11 unworked foundation loops, 3 sc in the corner loop. (14)
- Tier 1 side: 5 sc rows × 1 + 3 dc rows × 2. (11)
- Ledge: sc under the inner extension stitch, 3 sc under the outer one. (4)
- Tier 2 side: (11)
- Ledge: (4)
- Tier 3 side: Rows 17–23 give 4 sc rows × 1 + 3 dc rows × 2 = 10, plus Rows 24–30 give 7. (17)
- Tip: 3 sc in the top of Row 31. (3)
Now work down the other side as a mirror image: Tier 3 side (17), ledge (4), Tier 2 side (11), ledge (4), Tier 1 side (11), Tier 1 underside with 3 sc in the corner loop and then sc in 11 (14), and trunk side (6). Sl st to the first sc.
(147 sts)
To check the total: 10 + 2 × (6 + 14 + 11 + 4 + 11 + 4 + 17) + 3 = 10 + 134 + 3 = 147.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. (147 sts) Sl st to the first st and fasten off.
Why the math works: A sc row is about 0.22 in (0.6 cm) tall, which is close to the width of one sc. A dc row is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall, which is about two sc wide. Working 1 sc per sc row-end and 2 sc per dc row-end therefore keeps the edges flat. The 3-sc groups at each outer point let the border turn the corner without pulling. The inner corners get no extra stitches, so the notches stay crisp. Together the two rounds add about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) to each edge. That brings the size to 8 in (20.3 cm) wide and 11.2 in (28.4 cm) tall.
Hanging Loop
Join yarn in the stitch at the very tip. Ch 20, then sl st in the same stitch. Work 28 sc around the ch-20 loop and sl st to the tip. Fasten off and weave in the end through the inside of the loop.
The finished loop is about 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the WS of solid sc rows. Keep them away from the eyelets.
- Lay the tree RS up on a blocking mat.
- Pin the trunk corners, the six tier points and the tip so the width is 8 in (20.3 cm) and the height is 11.2 in (28.4 cm).
- Line up the tier points so they mirror each other across the center.
- Spray until the piece is damp but not soaked.
- With your fingertips, push each bobble up from the WS so it sits round. Don’t flatten the bobbles.
- Lightly pat the eyelet rows so the holes open evenly.
- Let it dry completely before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The tiers have 8, 6 and 4 bobbles, all sitting on the RS.
- Each tier has two eyelet rows, one above and one below its bobble band.
- Each tier’s points stick out past the top of the tier below.
- The trunk is centered, with 12 foundation loops on each side.
- Border Rnd 1 has 147 sts, and the rev sc edge is even all the way around.
- The finished tree measures 8 in (20.3 cm) × 11.2 in (28.4 cm).
- The loop is attached firmly and the tree hangs straight.
Troubleshooting
The bobbles are on the wrong side. You worked the bobble row on a RS row. Rows 4, 12 and 20 must be WS rows. Check your row parity from Row 1.
The bobbles look flat. Pull up each loop to the full height of a dc. Then push the bobbles out from the WS while blocking.
The edges are wavy. Your border has too many stitches. Recheck the 2-per-dc-row-end rule and the 147-stitch total.
The edges cup or pull in. Your border is too tight, or you skipped some row-ends. Go up half a hook size for Rnd 1.
The tiers don’t step out. You missed the extension stitches in Row 9 or Row 17. Each of those rows has to grow by 4 stitches.
The tree leans to one side. The trunk isn’t centered. Count the foundation loops again: you should have 12, then the 6-stitch trunk, then 12.
The tip is blunt. Work the 3-sc tip group into the single stitch of Row 31, not into the row-ends.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat. If the tree loses its shape, re-block it.
Final Notes
Here’s the full measurement chain. Row 1 sets the width at 7.5 in (19.1 cm). Tier 1 ends at 2.6 in (6.6 cm) tall, Tier 2 at 5.2 in (13.2 cm) and the tip at 9.4 in (23.9 cm). The trunk brings the body to 10.7 in (27.2 cm). The 147-stitch border then finishes the tree at 8 in (20.3 cm) × 11.2 in (28.4 cm). If you check each of these points as you go, the tree will block out cleanly.
Happy crocheting!