The Frosted Bloom Tree is a soft, layered Christmas ornament made from three puff-flower granny squares. Each square is turned on point to make a diamond. The diamonds are stacked so the tree gets wider toward the bottom, and a small gold star at the top finishes it.
The colors fade from bright white at the top, to soft cream in the middle, to warm beige at the base. Each square has an 8-petal puff flower, a ring of small openings around it, and a neat single-crochet edge. It looks cozy and neutral and goes with natural, Scandinavian or farmhouse decorations.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished ornament is about 5.7 in (14.5 cm) wide and 10 in (25.4 cm) tall from the bottom point to the top of the star. The hanging loop adds about 2 in (5.1 cm).
All three squares use the same pattern. The small square stops after Round 3, the medium after Round 4 and the large after Round 5. Each square then gets one single-crochet edging round. Next, you make a star with a built-in loop. Finally, you stack the pieces and sew them together.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished ornament: 5.7 in (14.5 cm) wide × 10 in (25.4 cm) tall, plus a 2 in (5.1 cm) loop
- Skill level: Easy+ (puff stitches, granny rounds, simple sewing)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK (#3)
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 4 crocheted pieces (3 squares + 1 star with its loop)
- Layout: 3 squares stacked vertically on point, each upper bottom point placed on the center of the square below
- Square sizes (with edging): small 2.8 in (7.1 cm), medium 3.4 in (8.6 cm), large 4.0 in (10.2 cm)
- Square sizes before edging: small 2.6 in (6.6 cm), medium 3.2 in (8.1 cm), large 3.8 in (9.7 cm)
- Edging depth: 0.1 in (0.3 cm) per side
- Point-to-point diagonals: small 4.0 in (10.2 cm), medium 4.8 in (12.2 cm), large 5.7 in (14.5 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth DK cotton or cotton blend, about 230 m per 100 g. Cotton shows the puff petals clearly and keeps the points crisp. A soft acrylic also works, but the squares may stretch a little more during blocking.
- Color A – White (small square): 8 g, about 18 m
- Color B – Cream (medium square): 10 g, about 23 m
- Color C – Beige (large square): 14 g, about 32 m
- Color D – Gold (star and loop): 5 g, about 12 m
These amounts include a margin for tails, sewing and one test swatch.
Tools:
– 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– 6–8 rust-proof pins
– Ruler or tape measure
– Blocking mat or folded towel
– Spray bottle with water
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- MR – magic ring
Puff stitch (puff): Yarn over, insert hook in the indicated place, yarn over and pull up a loop to about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) tall. Repeat from * 3 more times (9 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 9 loops, then ch 1 to close the puff. The closing ch 1 is part of the puff and is not counted as a separate stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Before making the full ornament, make the small white square and measure it. Gauge only needs to be close, but the stacking depends on the three squares being the right size compared with each other.
Checkpoints (measure flat, without stretching):
– After Round 1: flower about 1.2 in (3.0 cm) across
– After Round 2: square 2.0 in (5.1 cm) per side
– After Round 3: 2.6 in (6.6 cm)
– After Round 4: 3.2 in (8.1 cm)
– After Round 5: 3.8 in (9.7 cm)
– After edging: add 0.2 in (0.5 cm) to the last measurement
Each granny round adds about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) to the width of the square.
If your square is too big by more than 0.1 in (0.3 cm) after Round 2, go down to a 3.25 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 3.75 mm hook. Also check your puffs: tall, loose loops make a large Round 1 flower that pushes the whole square bigger.
Square Pattern (All Sizes)
Make each square in a single color: A for small, B for medium and C for large. Work with the right side facing at all times. Don’t turn your work.
Round 1 – Puff Flower
Make a MR. Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 puff in the ring, ch 2. Work 1 puff in the ring, ch 2. Repeat from * 6 more times. Pull the ring closed, leaving a small center hole. Join with a sl st to the top of the first puff.
Count: 8 puffs and 8 ch-2 sps.
Round 2 – Squaring Round
Sl st into the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp for the first corner. Ch 1. Work 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp for a side group, then ch 1.
Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp for a corner, ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1. Repeat from * 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.
Count: 36 dc, made up of 9 dc per side (3 groups per side), plus 4 corner ch-2 sps and 8 ch-1 sps.
The corners go into every other petal space, so the flower sits straight in the square. The ch-1 sps make the small openings around the flower.
Round 3 – Granny Round
Sl st in the next 2 dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, then work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp. Ch 1. Work 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Repeat from * to the next corner.
Corner repeat: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the corner sp, ch 1, then (3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1) to the next corner. Work this around. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.
Count: 48 dc, made up of 12 dc per side (4 groups per side), plus 4 corner ch-2 sps and 12 ch-1 sps.
Small square (Color A): Stop here and go to the Edging. The square should measure 2.6 in (6.6 cm).
Round 4 – Granny Round (Medium and Large Only)
Repeat Round 3.
Count: 60 dc, made up of 15 dc per side (5 groups per side), plus 4 corner ch-2 sps and 16 ch-1 sps.
Medium square (Color B): Stop here and go to the Edging. The square should measure 3.2 in (8.1 cm).
Round 5 – Granny Round (Large Only)
Repeat Round 3.
Count: 72 dc, made up of 18 dc per side (6 groups per side), plus 4 corner ch-2 sps and 20 ch-1 sps.
Large square (Color C): The square should measure 3.8 in (9.7 cm). Go to the Edging.
Make All Pieces
You need one of each piece:
- Small square (Color A): 1, Rounds 1–3 + edging
- Medium square (Color B): 1, Rounds 1–4 + edging
- Large square (Color C): 1, Rounds 1–5 + edging
- Star (Color D): 1, with loop
Layout grid (on point, top to bottom):
[ STAR + LOOP ]
< A > small, white
< B > medium, cream
< C > large, beige
Each “< >” is a diamond. The bottom point of each diamond rests on the center of the diamond below it.
Star with Hanging Loop (Color D)
Round 1: Make a MR, ch 1, work 10 sc in the ring. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (10 sc) The center measures about 0.6 in (1.5 cm).
Round 2 (points): Ch 4. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch and dc in the last ch. Sk 1 sc on Round 1 and sl st in the next sc. Repeat from * 4 more times. (5 points) The star should measure about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from point to point.
Loop: Sl st up the side of the last point to its tip. Ch 24, which is about 4 in (10.2 cm). Sl st into the same tip to make a loop about 2 in (5.1 cm) tall. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing.
Edging
The edging is worked on each square separately, before joining. This round makes the crisp, slightly raised edge you can see on every diamond.
Edging gauge: 1 sc per dc and 1 sc per ch-1 sp keeps the edge flat, with no ruffling or cupping.
Edging round (same color as the square): Sl st into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, then work 3 sc in the corner sp. Work 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch-1 sp to the next corner, then 3 sc in the corner sp. Repeat from * around, skipping the last corner because you already worked it. Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail on the medium and small squares for sewing.
The middle sc of each 3-sc corner is the corner stitch.
Counts per side. These include both corner stitches:
– Small: 12 dc + 3 sps = 15 sc between corner groups, + 2 outer corner-group sc + 2 corner sts = 19 sts per side. Round total: (15 × 4) + (3 × 4) = 72 sc
– Medium: 15 dc + 4 sps = 19, so 23 sts per side. Round total: (19 × 4) + 12 = 88 sc
– Large: 18 dc + 5 sps = 23, so 27 sts per side. Round total: (23 × 4) + 12 = 104 sc
Why the math works: Each side has G groups of 3 dc with (G − 1) ch-1 sps between them. This gives 4G − 1 sc between corner groups. Each corner adds 3 sc, so the round total is 4 × (4G − 1) + 12 = 16G + 8. That’s 72, 88 and 104 for G = 4, 5 and 6. The sizes go up by the same steps, so the tree tapers evenly.
Joining
Join the squares after blocking (see Final Blocking). Their points and edges will be straight, which makes placing them much easier.
Step 1 – Medium onto large. Lay the large square on point, right side up. Place the medium square on top, also on point. Center the bottom corner stitch of the medium square directly over the large square’s flower ring. Check that both squares share the same center line.
Step 2 – Find the sewing line. Each lower edge of the medium square crosses the large square’s upper edge about 2.0 in (5.1 cm) from the bottom point. That’s after about 12 of the 21 side stitches between the corners. Pin at that point on both sides.
Step 3 – Sew. Use the cream tail. Start at the medium square’s bottom corner stitch and go up each lower edge. Stitch through the back loop of each edging sc and then through the face of the large square, under one strand of the stitch below. Sew 1 corner st + 12 sts on each side, for 25 sts in total. Keep the tension snug but not tight, so the beige square doesn’t pucker.
Step 4 – Tack the hidden point. Turn the piece over. The large square’s top point sits about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) above the medium square’s center. Tack the large square’s top corner stitch to the back of the medium square with 2 small stitches, so the point can’t flip forward.
Step 5 – Small onto medium. Repeat the same steps with the small square on top of the medium square, using the white tail. The bottom corner stitch goes over the medium square’s flower ring. The edges cross about 1.7 in (4.3 cm) from the tip, after about 10 of the 17 side stitches. Sew 1 corner st + 10 sts on each side, for 21 sts in total. Tack the medium square’s top point, which sits about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) above the small square’s center, to the back of the small square.
Step 6 – Star. Center the star over the small square’s top point, with the loop pointing straight up. Use the gold tail to sew around the edge of Round 1 and through the bases of the two lower points.
Size checkpoint: The tree body should measure about 9.25 in (23.5 cm) from the bottom point to the small square’s top point. With the star, it should be 10 in (25.4 cm). The width should be 5.7 in (14.5 cm) at the large square’s side corners.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the back of the stitches in matching colors. Don’t trim them yet.
- Lightly spray each square until it’s damp, not soaked.
- Pin each square on point to its finished size: 2.8 in (7.1 cm), 3.4 in (8.6 cm) and 4.0 in (10.2 cm) per side. Put one pin in each corner stitch.
- With a fingertip, gently push up each puff petal to round it.
- Leave the squares to dry completely, for about 2–4 hours.
- After joining, spray the finished tree lightly once more. Pin the bottom point and the star tip on one straight line and let it dry.
- Trim the woven ends close to the fabric.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every flower has 8 puffs with even, rounded petals
- Corners are sharp, with 3 sc at each corner of the edging
- Side counts are 19, 23 and 27 sts, including corners
- Squares measure 2.8 in, 3.4 in and 4.0 in (7.1, 8.6 and 10.2 cm)
- Each upper bottom point sits exactly over the flower ring below
- No puckering along the sewn edges
- The hidden points are tacked flat on the back
- The star is centered and the loop hangs straight
- The finished height is about 10 in (25.4 cm), not counting the loop
Troubleshooting
Puffs look flat or messy: Pull every loop up to the same height before closing. Make sure the closing ch 1 is snug.
Square cups in the center: Your Round 1 is too tight. Work the puffs taller, or don’t pull the magic ring quite as tight.
Square ruffles: Check that each ch-1 sp gets only 1 sc in the edging and each corner gets exactly 3 sc.
Corners are rounded: Use a full ch 2 at every corner in the granny rounds, and pin firmly at the corner stitch when you block.
The tree leans: Unpin and line up all bottom points, flower centers and the star along one straight vertical line.
The tree is too tall: Your sewing line probably stopped short. Make sure each upper point reaches the center of the flower below it.
The star tilts forward: Add 2 more tacking stitches through the top point behind the star.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat, reshaping the points. Store flat or hang it so the squares don’t crease.
Final Notes
Everything in this pattern builds from the first measurement. The Round 1 flower is 1.2 in (3.0 cm), and Round 2 squares it to 2.0 in (5.1 cm). Each granny round then adds 0.6 in (1.5 cm), and the edging adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm). That gives squares of 2.8, 3.4 and 4.0 in (7.1, 8.6 and 10.2 cm), with point-to-point diagonals of 4.0, 4.8 and 5.7 in (10.2, 12.2 and 14.5 cm).
Stacking each bottom point on the flower center below gives a tree body of 9.25 in (23.5 cm). The star adds 0.75 in (1.9 cm) for a finished height of 10 in (25.4 cm). If your squares match their checkpoints, the tree will come out the right size.
Happy crocheting!