This little wreath is a quick holiday make. It’s a solid red ring of single crochet with a white satin bow, two shiny red beads, and a gold jingle bell that swings in the center opening. It looks classic on a tree, and it also works as a gift tag or package topper.
The colors are simple: bright Christmas red for the ring, white for the hanging loop and bow, red for the beads and gold for the bell. The style is clean and traditional. Dense stitches give the ring a full, cushioned look, so the trims stand out against it.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished ring is 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across with a 1.25 in (3.2 cm) center opening. With the hanging loop, the ornament is about 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall.
You crochet one flat ring in joined rounds, working the first round over a chain ring. Then you add a single increase round as the border, block the ring and attach the trims.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) diameter
- Center opening: 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
- Total height with loop: about 5.25 in (13.3 cm)
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 1 crocheted ring, plus trims
- Layout: Single ring, hung from the top
- Ring size before border: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) diameter
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), 1 round
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight acrylic or cotton. A tightly plied yarn shows the stitches crisply and keeps the ring firm. Avoid fuzzy yarns, which hide the clean stitch texture.
- Red (ring): 6 g / 12 m
- White (hanging loop): 2 g / 2 m
These amounts include a safety margin. The ring itself uses about 3 g.
Trims:
- 10 in (25.4 cm) of white satin ribbon, 5/8 in (1.6 cm) wide
- 2 red round beads, 10 mm (0.4 in)
- 1 gold jingle bell, 3/4 in (1.9 cm)
- Red sewing thread
Tools:
- 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Sharp sewing needle that fits through the beads
- 1 stitch marker
- Scissors
- Ruler or tape measure
- Pins and a foam blocking mat
- Clear fabric glue (optional)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- inc – increase: work 2 sc in the same stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd – round
- rep – repeat
- * … * – repeat the instructions between asterisks as directed
Special technique: Joined rounds. Each round ends with a sl st into the first sc of that round. Start each new round with ch 1. This ch 1 never counts as a stitch. Work the first sc of the round into the same stitch as the join.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). That works out to 4 sts per inch, and each round is 0.25 in (0.6 cm) tall.
Gauge matters here because the ring needs to lie flat. Each round adds about 6 sts of circumference, which matches the extra distance around the ring when it grows by one 0.25 in (0.6 cm) round. If your stitches run larger or smaller, the ring will cup or ruffle.
The ring is small, so just make it as your test piece and check it against these diameter checkpoints:
- After Rnd 1: 1.75 in (4.4 cm)
- After Rnd 2: 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
- After Rnd 3: 2.75 in (7.0 cm)
- After Rnd 4: 3.25 in (8.3 cm)
- After Rnd 5 (border): 3.75 in (9.5 cm)
Ring too big? Switch to a 3.75 mm (F-5) hook, or tighten the yarn around your finger.
Ring too small? Switch to a 4.5 mm (7) hook.
Ring cupping (edges curling up)? Your rounds are taller than your stitches are wide. Go up a hook size.
Ring ruffling? Go down a hook size.
Wreath Ring
Use red yarn throughout. Leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) starting tail.
Foundation: Ch 18. Join with a sl st into the first ch to form a ring. Don’t twist the chain.
Rnd 1: Ch 1. Work 24 sc into the center of the ring (around the chain, not into it). As you work, push the stitches together so all 24 fit evenly around the chain. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (24 sts)
Working over the chain gives the opening a smooth, rolled edge with no visible chain loops. Lay the piece flat. The opening should be about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.
Rnd 2: Ch 1. *Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st*. Rep from * to * 6 times. Join. (30 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1. *Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st*. Rep 6 times. Join. (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1. Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st. *Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st*. Rep from * to * 4 more times. Sc in last 3 sts. Join. (42 sts)
This round moves the increases by half a repeat. Staggering them stops the ring from turning into a hexagon.
Check now. The ring should measure 3.25 in (8.3 cm) across, and the opening should still be 1.25 in (3.2 cm).
Border
The border is one sc round with increases. It finishes the ring to its final size and gives the smooth, rounded outer edge seen on the finished piece.
Border gauge: Same as the body: 4 sts per inch and 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of depth per round. Don’t change hooks for the border.
The ring has no straight sides, so the border is planned in 6 equal sections, one per increase repeat. Each section starts at 7 stitches and ends at 8.
Rnd 5 (border): Ch 1. *Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st*. Rep 6 times. Join with an invisible join (see below).
Count: 42 sts worked one into each existing stitch, plus 6 extra stitches from the increases, makes 48 sts. That’s 8 stitches in each of the 6 sections.
Invisible join: Cut the yarn, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail, and pull the tail through the last stitch. Thread it onto a tapestry needle. Skip the first sc, pass the needle under both loops of the second sc, then go back down through the back loop of the last sc. Snug the tail until the new loop is the same size as its neighbors. This makes the edge look like one continuous round.
Why the math works:
- The ring needs a finished diameter of 3.75 in (9.5 cm). Its outer edge is π × 3.75 in = 11.8 in (30.0 cm).
- At 4 sts per inch, 48 sts make an edge of 12.0 in (30.5 cm). That’s 0.2 in (0.5 cm) longer than the true circumference.
- The tiny extra length is absorbed by the rounded top of the border stitches. It lets the edge lie flat without pulling or waving.
- The 6 increases per round match the 1.6 in (4.0 cm) of new circumference each 0.25 in (0.6 cm) round adds.
Weave in both tails along the wrong side of the ring.
Hanging Loop
- Cut 20 in (50.8 cm) of white yarn.
- Knot the two ends together.
- Hook one end over a doorknob and twist the other end tightly about 40 times, until the strand starts to kink.
- Hold the middle and fold the strand in half. Let it twist back on itself into a cord about 8 in (20.3 cm) long.
- Knot the loose end so the twist holds.
Final Blocking
Block the ring before you add any trims. Satin ribbon and beads should not be steamed or soaked.
- Lightly spray the ring with water until it’s damp but not wet.
- Lay it on the blocking mat with the right side up. The right side has the smoother stitches.
- Pin the outer edge at 8 evenly spaced points so it forms a true circle 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across.
- Check that the center opening is round and 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across. Gently ease it into shape with your fingers.
- Let the ring dry completely, usually 2 to 3 hours.
- Unpin it. Choose the top of the ring so the round joins sit at the back or at the bottom.
Assembly
1. Attach the loop.
- Thread both cord ends onto a tapestry needle.
- Bring them from front to back through the top of the ring, between Rnd 4 and the border.
- Adjust the cord so the loop stands 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the outer edge.
- Knot the ends tightly at the back, trim to 0.5 in (1.3 cm), and tuck them under nearby stitches.
2. Add the top bead.
- Thread a sewing needle with doubled red thread and anchor it at the back of the ring top.
- Bring the needle to the front at the base of the loop.
- Pass it through one bead, then back down through the ring.
- Repeat once more, then knot the thread at the back.
The bead should sit right where the loop meets the ring.
3. Tie the bow.
- Tie the ribbon into a bow 2.75 in (7.0 cm) wide.
- Trim each tail at an angle so it measures about 1.25 in (3.2 cm).
- Sew through the bow knot to the front of the ring, just below the top bead. The bow should cover Rnds 2 through 5 at the top.
- If you like, add a dot of fabric glue behind the knot.
4. Attach the lower bead and the bell.
- Bring the doubled thread to the front at the inner edge of the ring, directly under the bow.
- Pass it through the second bead, then through the bell’s hanging loop.
- Go back up through the bead and into the ring.
- Repeat once more, then knot the thread at the back.
The bell should hang freely in the center opening and should not touch the bottom edge of the ring.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The ring measures 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across and lies completely flat.
- The center opening is round and measures 1.25 in (3.2 cm).
- The border round has 48 sts and no gaps at the invisible join.
- Increases don’t form visible corners. The outline is a smooth circle.
- The loop stands 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the ring, centered at the top.
- The top bead, bow knot, lower bead and bell form one straight vertical line.
- The bow is level, and both tails are the same length.
- The bell swings freely and jingles.
- All tails are woven in, with no knots visible from the front.
- The ornament hangs straight when you hold it by the loop.
Troubleshooting
The center opening is too large or floppy. The 24 sc in Rnd 1 aren’t packed tightly enough. Pull the starting tail to close the chain ring slightly, then weave it in firmly.
The ring looks hexagonal. Your increases are stacking. Make sure Rnd 4 starts with the half-repeat offset as written.
The ring cups like a bowl. Your rounds are too tall for your stitch width. Go up one hook size, or add 1 extra inc in each of Rnds 3 and 4.
The edge ruffles. Your stitches are too short for the number of increases. Go down one hook size.
The ornament tilts on the tree. The loop is off-center. Move it so it sits directly above the bell.
The bell sits crooked. Sew through the bell’s loop twice so it can’t turn sideways.
The bow droops forward. Add a second tack stitch through the back of the bow, behind each loop.
Care
Spot clean only with a damp cloth and mild soap, and let the ornament air dry flat. Store it in a small box so the bow keeps its shape.
Final Notes
The size of this ornament comes down to one simple chain of measurements:
- An 18-chain foundation with 24 sc packed around it makes a 1.25 in (3.2 cm) opening.
- At a gauge of 4 sts and 4 rounds per inch, each round adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) to each side and 6 stitches around.
- Four body rounds (24, 30, 36 and 42 sts) bring the ring to 3.25 in (8.3 cm).
- One 48-stitch border round finishes it at 3.75 in (9.5 cm).
- Block the ring to that circle, then add the loop, beads, bow and bell, and the ornament is ready to hang.
Happy crocheting!