The Lavender Trio is a tall, slim hanging holder that keeps three toilet paper rolls within reach. It has one long textured back panel, three rounded pockets stacked down the front, and a ribbed strap that loops over a wooden ring.
It is worked in one soft lavender shade, so the texture does the decorating. The Suzette stitch gives the fabric a pebbly, diagonal grain. It looks rich, but it is easy to work and stays firm enough to hold its shape when loaded.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide and 20 in (50.8 cm) long before the strap is folded, and about 22 in (55.9 cm) from the ring to the bottom edge when hanging.
You work the back panel flat in rows, tapering it at the top. Then you add a one-round border and a ribbed strap. Each pocket is a small cup worked in rounds: a flat circular base, then textured walls. The flattened back of each cup is sewn stitch to stitch onto the panel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide x 20 in (50.8 cm) long, plus strap
- Hanging length: about 22 in (55.9 cm) below the ring
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 4 (1 back panel, 3 pockets)
- Layout: 1 column, 3 pockets stacked vertically
- Pocket size: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) base diameter, 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- Panel size before border: 5 in (12.7 cm) x 19.5 in (49.5 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), 1 round
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape in a humid bathroom and shows the Suzette texture clearly. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarns; the pockets can sag under the weight of the rolls.
- Lavender: 230 g, about 420 m (460 yd)
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outside diameter
- Tapestry needle
- 6 locking stitch markers
- Scissors and a measuring tape
- Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
The yarn quantity includes a margin of about 10% for gauge swatches and sewing tails.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- rep – repeat
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – Suzette pair: (sc, dc) in the same st. In pattern rows you work a Suzette pair in the next st, then skip the following st. Every pair uses 2 sts and makes 2 sts, so the stitch count stays the same. The dc of each pair leans over the skipped stitch, which creates the diagonal pebble texture.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge in Suzette pattern: 16 sts and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Gauge in sc: 16 sts and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Test with one pocket first. It is small, uses every stitch in the pattern, and tells you right away whether a roll will fit.
Checkpoints:
- Pocket base, after Rnd 10: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
- Pocket walls, after Rnd 25: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall from the base ridge.
- Panel, after Row 22: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide and 5.5 in (14.0 cm) long.
- Panel, after Row 66: 16.5 in (41.9 cm) long.
- Panel, after Row 78: 19.5 in (49.5 cm) long.
If your fabric is too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it is too small, go up 0.5 mm. Don’t add or remove stitches. The pocket and panel counts are matched to each other, and changing one breaks the seam math.
Back Panel
The panel is worked flat from the bottom edge upward.
Ch 21.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (20 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. *Suzette pair in next st, sk next st; rep from * 9 more times. (20 sts: 10 pairs)
Rows 3–66: Rep Row 2. (20 sts in each row)
Checkpoint: the panel now measures 5 in (12.7 cm) x 16.5 in (41.9 cm).
Tapered Top
The top narrows evenly on both edges to make the shoulder below the strap. Decrease rows remove 1 st at each end.
Row 67 (decrease): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, *Suzette pair in next st, sk next st; rep from * 7 more times, sc2tog. (18 sts: 1 + 16 + 1)
Row 68: Ch 1, turn. *Suzette pair in next st, sk next st; rep from * across. (18 sts: 9 pairs)
For Rows 69–78, start every row with ch 1, turn, as before.
Row 69: Sc2tog, 6 Suzette pairs as set, sc2tog. (16 sts)
Row 70: Work 8 Suzette pairs. (16 sts)
Row 71: Sc2tog, 5 Suzette pairs, sc2tog. (14 sts)
Row 72: Work 7 Suzette pairs. (14 sts)
Row 73: Sc2tog, 4 Suzette pairs, sc2tog. (12 sts)
Row 74: Work 6 Suzette pairs. (12 sts)
Row 75: Sc2tog, 3 Suzette pairs, sc2tog. (10 sts)
Row 76: Work 5 Suzette pairs. (10 sts)
Row 77: Sc2tog, 2 Suzette pairs, sc2tog. (8 sts)
Row 78: Work 4 Suzette pairs. (8 sts)
Each decrease row works out as 1 sc2tog (2 sts into 1) + pairs + 1 sc2tog. For example, Row 67 uses 2 + 16 + 2 = 20 sts and makes 1 + 16 + 1 = 18 sts.
The taper adds 12 rows, or 3 in (7.6 cm). The top edge is 2 in (5.1 cm) wide. Don’t fasten off; keep the loop live for the border.
Pocket (Make 3)
Each pocket is a cup worked in joined rounds. The walls are turned each round so the Suzette texture matches the panel.
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, 6 sc in ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, join. (24 sts)
Rnds 5–10: Continue increasing 6 sts per round, with 1 more sc between increases each round. Rnd 5 has 30 sts, Rnd 6 has 36, Rnd 7 has 42, Rnd 8 has 48, Rnd 9 has 54, and Rnd 10 has 60.
Checkpoint: the base lies flat and measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
Rnd 11 (base ridge): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (60 sts)
The unused front loops form a ridge that makes the walls turn upward. You will also use this ridge as the bottom seam line.
Rnds 12–24: Ch 1, turn. *Suzette pair in next st, sk next st; rep from * 29 more times, join with sl st to first sc. (60 sts: 30 pairs)
Rnd 25 (top edge): Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around, join. (60 sts)
Fasten off. Leave a 36 in (91.4 cm) tail for sewing.
Checkpoint: the walls are 15 rounds (Rnds 11–25) and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. A standard roll stands about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) above the rim, as in the finished piece.
Make All Pieces
- Back panel: 1, lavender
- Pockets: 3, lavender
Layout (from top to bottom, with the panel rows each part uses):
[ wooden ring ]
[ ribbed strap ]
[ tapered top, Rows 67–78 ]
[ plain panel, Rows 61–66 ]
[ Pocket 3, Rows 46–60 ]
[ Pocket 2, Rows 24–38 ]
[ Pocket 1, Rows 2–16 ]
[ Row 1 ]
Pocket bases sit 22 rows apart, so they are spaced 5.5 in (14.0 cm). Between the top of one pocket and the base of the next there are 7 free rows, or 1.75 in (4.4 cm). That gives a roll room to tip out.
Joining
Finish the Border and Strap (next section) before sewing the pockets. The border gives you a clean edge to sew against.
Mark the pocket back. Lay a pocket flat with the tail at the back. Pick 20 ridge stitches in a row on the base ridge, centered on the tail. Mark the first and the 20th with markers. These 20 sts form the flat back. The other 40 sts form the curved front.
Bottom seam. Place the pocket on the RS of the panel so the 20 marked ridge loops line up with the 20 sts of the panel row shown in the layout. For Pocket 1 that is Row 2. Whipstitch one ridge loop to one panel stitch, all the way across. That gives 20 stitches into 20 stitches, with no easing.
Side seams. Run the tail up one side of the back section. Whipstitch the edge stitch of each wall round to the end stitch of the matching panel row, sewing just inside the border. Both fabrics have the same gauge, so the 15 rounds (Rnds 11–25) meet 15 rows (Rows 2–16 for Pocket 1). Repeat on the other side.
Top tack. Tack the 20 back sts of Rnd 25 to the panel row they cover (Row 16 for Pocket 1). The flattened back keeps the pocket from tipping forward.
Repeat for Pocket 2 (Rows 24–38) and Pocket 3 (Rows 46–60).
Tension: Sew snugly, but don’t pull so tight that the panel puckers. After each seam, lay the panel flat. It should still measure 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide across the pocket.
Size checkpoint: each pocket front should curve out into a D shape and hold a roll without stretching.
Border and Strap
Border gauge: 1 sc per stitch along the top and bottom, and 1 sc per row end along the sides. Suzette rows and stitches have the same gauge (16 per 4 in / 10.2 cm), so 1 sc per row end keeps the edges flat.
Border Rnd 1: Continue from Row 78. Ch 1, turn so the RS faces you. Work 3 sc in the first st (corner), sc in the next 6 sts, and 3 sc in the last st (corner). Work 76 sc down the side, 1 in each row end of Rows 77–2. Along the foundation chain, work 3 sc in the first ch (corner), sc in the next 18 ch, then 3 sc in the last ch (corner). Work 76 sc up the other side, 1 in each row end of Rows 2–77. Join with sl st to the first sc. (188 sts)
Stitches per side, counting the middle sc of each corner group as the corner stitch:
- Top: 1 + 1 + 6 + 1 + 1 = 10
- Each long side: 1 + 1 + 76 + 1 + 1 = 80
- Bottom: 1 + 1 + 18 + 1 + 1 = 22
Check: 10 + 80 + 80 + 22 = 192. Subtract the 4 shared corner sts and you get 188.
Why the math works: the border adds 1 st to each edge. The width goes from 20 to 22 sts, or 5.5 in (14.0 cm), and the length goes from 78 to 80 rows, or 20 in (50.8 cm). Along the diagonal taper edges, the 3 sc corner groups and 1 sc per row end are enough to keep the edge flat.
Strap Row 1: Don’t fasten off. Sl st along the top to the 3rd sc of the first top corner group. Ch 1, sc in that st, sc in the next 6 sts, then sc in the first sc of the next corner group. (8 sts)
Strap Rows 2–18: Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO of each st across. (8 sts)
The strap is 2 in (5.1 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) long, with a ribbed texture. Fold it over the wooden ring to the WS. Whipstitch Row 18 to the base of the strap, stitch for stitch (8 to 8). Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Final Blocking
- Wet the finished holder in cool water, then press out the water gently. Don’t wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove extra moisture.
- Lay it flat with the pockets facing up, and pin the panel to 5.5 in (14.0 cm) x 20 in (50.8 cm).
- Stuff each pocket with a toilet paper roll wrapped in plastic so it dries in a rounded D shape.
- Keep the strap loop straight around the ring.
- Leave to dry completely, usually 24 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Panel is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide and 20 in (50.8 cm) long.
- Border Rnd 1 has 188 sts, with flat, square corners.
- All 3 pockets have 60 sts per round and are 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
- Pocket bases start on Rows 2, 24, and 46.
- Pockets sit straight and centered, with no gaps at the side seams.
- The strap is sewn securely and the ring doesn’t twist.
- All ends are woven in at least 2 in (5.1 cm).
Troubleshooting
- Pocket base ruffles: your tension is loose on the increase rounds. Go down a hook size for Rnds 1–10.
- Pocket base cups early: check that each round adds exactly 6 sts.
- Stitch count keeps changing: in each Suzette pair, both stitches go into one stitch, and the next stitch is skipped. Count pairs, not single stitches.
- Panel edges waver: make the ch 1 at the turn snug, and work the first pair into the very first stitch.
- Taper is lopsided: both ends of each decrease row need a sc2tog.
- Pocket sags under the roll: tighten the side seams and the top tack, or use firmer cotton.
- Roll won’t fit: your base is under 4.75 in (12.1 cm). Rework the pocket on a hook 0.5 mm larger.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then dry flat with the pockets shaped. Keep it away from direct shower spray so it stays crisp.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. Gauge sets the pocket base at 4.75 in (12.1 cm) and the walls at 3.75 in (9.5 cm). The panel’s 20 sts match the 20-st pocket back, and its rows match the wall rounds one to one. The border brings the panel to 5.5 in (14.0 cm) x 20 in (50.8 cm), and the strap adds the hanging loop. Check each stage, and the three pockets will line up exactly.
Happy crocheting!