The Linen Lattice holder hangs from a hook and stores three spare rolls. A diamond-mesh back panel carries three round mesh pockets, and a wooden ring sits at the top. The open net looks light, and the solid bands at each pocket’s base and rim keep it firm.
It’s worked in one cream cotton. The natural wood of the ring is the only other color, which suits a calm, neutral bathroom.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide and hangs about 21.5 in (54.6 cm) below the ring. Each pocket is about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across and 5.1 in (13.0 cm) tall.
You work the panel flat from the bottom up, tapering it into a solid strap, and then add an edging. The pockets are worked in the round and sewn on. Last, the strap folds over the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide x 21.5 in (54.6 cm) hanging length below the ring
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted weight (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 4 (1 back panel + 3 identical pockets), plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 3 pockets stacked vertically on 1 panel, with 0.5 in (1.3 cm) gaps between them
- Pocket size: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) diameter x 5.1 in (13.0 cm) tall
- Panel size before border: 5.25 in (13.3 cm) wide x 20.25 in (51.4 cm) long through the taper, plus a 2.67 in (6.8 cm) strap
- Border depth: about 0.22 in (0.6 cm), one sc row plus one slip stitch row
Materials
Use a smooth, firm cotton. It keeps the mesh crisp and won’t sag under the weight of the rolls.
- Cream (main color): 150 g, about 250 m (273 yd)
- Back panel: about 30 g, 50 m (55 yd)
- Each pocket: about 25 g, 41 m (45 yd)
These amounts include a margin for swatching and weaving in ends.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
- Tapestry needle and scissors
- 4 stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Rustproof pins and a blocking mat or folded towel
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- BLO – back loop only
- rnd – round
- [ ] – repeat the steps in brackets the number of times given
Special stitch – mesh loop: One mesh loop is ch 5 followed by a sc into the next loop or stitch. Each new row’s sc goes into the center of the loop below it, so the loops shift by half a loop each row. That offset makes the diamond net.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Solid gauge: 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Mesh gauge: 5 mesh loops across = 5.25 in (13.3 cm), and 6 mesh rows = 4 in (10.2 cm), measured after light blocking.
Make one pocket first as your gauge test. This also lets you test-fit a roll before you start the long panel.
Checkpoints:
- Pocket base, Rnd 5: about 2.4 in (6.1 cm) across
- Pocket base, Rnd 10: about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across
- Finished pocket: 5.1 in (13.0 cm) tall, and a roll slides in easily
- Panel, Row 1: 5.25 in (13.3 cm) wide
- Panel, Row 28: about 18.25 in (46.4 cm) long
If your piece is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm (US 7) hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook. Most US rolls are about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across, so the base must be at least that wide.

Pocket (Make 3)
Base
Work in continuous rounds, and mark the first stitch of each round.
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, then pull the ring closed. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: [Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: [Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (42 sc)
Rnd 8: [Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (48 sc)
Rnd 9: [Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (54 sc)
Rnd 10: [Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (60 sc)
The base should measure about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across. Sl st into the next st to smooth the step at the end of the round.
Solid Lower Band
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (60 sc) The BLO ridge turns the edge so the wall rises straight up.
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sc)
Mesh Wall
Rnd 13 (set-up): Ch 1, sc in first st, [ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st] 14 times, ch 5, sk last 3 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (15 mesh loops: 60 sts ÷ 4 = 15 repeats)
Rnd 14: Sl st in next 3 ch to reach the center of the first loop. Ch 1, sc in same loop, [ch 5, sc in next loop] 14 times, ch 5, join with sl st to first sc. (15 mesh loops)
Rnds 15–18: Repeat Rnd 14. (15 mesh loops each round)
That gives 6 mesh rounds, about 4 in (10.2 cm) of mesh.
Solid Rim
Rnd 19 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in first sc, 3 sc in next loop, [sc in next sc, 3 sc in next loop] 14 times, join. (15 sc worked into existing sc + 45 sc worked into loops = 60 sc)
Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sc)
Rnd 21: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 30 in (76.2 cm) tail for sewing. Height check: 2 solid rounds (0.44 in / 1.1 cm) + 4 in (10.2 cm) of mesh + 3 rim rounds (0.67 in / 1.7 cm) = about 5.1 in (13.0 cm).
Back Panel
Work in rows, turning at the end of each row.
Row 1 (foundation): Ch 22. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (21 sc, 5.25 in / 13.3 cm wide)
Row 2 (mesh set-up): Ch 1, sc in first st, [ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st] 5 times. (6 sc, 5 mesh loops)
Row 3 (half-loop row): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sc in first loop, [ch 5, sc in next loop] 4 times, ch 2, dc in last sc. (4 full loops + 2 half loops)
Row 4 (full-loop row): Ch 1, sc in first dc, [ch 5, sc in next loop] 4 times, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch of turning ch. (6 sc, 5 mesh loops)
Rows 5–28: Repeat Rows 3–4 twelve more times, ending after a Row 4.
Checkpoint: Rows 2–28 are 27 mesh rows, about 18 in (45.7 cm). With Row 1, the panel is about 18.25 in (46.4 cm) long.
Taper
Each taper row narrows the panel by half a loop on each side.
Row 29: Sl st in first sc and in next 3 ch. Ch 1, sc in same loop, [ch 5, sc in next loop] 4 times. (5 sc, 4 mesh loops)
Row 30: Sl st in next 3 ch, ch 1, sc in same loop, [ch 5, sc in next loop] 3 times. (4 sc, 3 mesh loops)
Row 31: Sl st in next 3 ch, ch 1, sc in same loop, [ch 5, sc in next loop] 2 times. (3 sc, 2 mesh loops)
The taper adds about 2 in (5.1 cm).
Strap
Row 32 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in first sc, 3 sc in next loop, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next loop, sc in last sc. (3 sc worked into existing sc + 6 sc worked into loops = 9 sc, 2.25 in / 5.7 cm wide)
Rows 33–43: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (9 sc each row)
The strap is 12 rows, about 2.67 in (6.8 cm). Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail.
Work the Border section on the panel next, before you sew on the pockets.
Make All Pieces
All pieces are made in Cream:
- 1 back panel – about 30 g, 50 m (55 yd)
- 3 pockets – about 25 g, 41 m (45 yd) each
Layout (front view, top to bottom):
( wooden ring )
[ strap, folded ]
[ taper neck ]
[ mesh ~1.9 in ]
[ POCKET 1 ] rim 16.3 in from bottom
[ gap 0.5 in ]
[ POCKET 2 ]
[ gap 0.5 in ]
[ POCKET 3 ] base at panel bottom
Joining
Sew each pocket to the panel with a whipstitch, using the pocket’s yarn tail.
Placement: Lay the bordered panel flat with the right side up. Measure from the bottom edge of Row 1:
- Pocket 3 (bottom): base at 0 in, rim at 5.1 in (13.0 cm)
- Pocket 2 (middle): base at 5.6 in (14.2 cm), rim at 10.7 in (27.2 cm)
- Pocket 1 (top): base at 11.2 in (28.4 cm), rim at 16.3 in (41.4 cm)
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Flatten a pocket and mark 20 rim stitches in a row at the back. That’s one third of the 60-stitch circumference, so it spans 5 in (12.7 cm) and fits inside the 5.25 in (13.3 cm) panel. Center those 20 stitches across the panel. Whipstitch each one to the mesh crossing directly behind it. Do the same with the 20 matching stitches of Rnd 12 at the base. Then tack the wall to the panel at each mesh crossing along both sides so the pocket doesn’t gape.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug, but not so tight that the mesh puckers. The panel should stay flat behind each pocket.
Size checkpoint: The pockets cover 16.3 in (41.4 cm) from the bottom. That leaves about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) of open mesh below the taper.
Ring: Fold the strap over the ring to the back so 6 rows sit on each side. Whipstitch Row 43 to the back of Row 32 and weave in the ends. The strap gathers slightly around the ring.
Border
Border gauge: 4 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) on every edge. On the side edges, work 8 sc for every 3 mesh rows.
Border Row 1: With the right side facing, join yarn at the right edge of Row 31.
- Right side: Work 80 sc evenly down the row ends of Rows 31–2, then 1 sc in the row end of Row 1. (81 sc)
- Corner: Ch 1.
- Bottom: Sc in each of the 21 foundation chains. (21 sc)
- Corner: Ch 1.
- Left side: Work 1 sc in the row end of Row 1, then 80 sc evenly up Rows 2–31. (81 sc)
Turn. (183 sc + 2 ch-1 corners)
Border Row 2: Sl st loosely in each sc and in each corner ch-1 sp. (81 + 1 + 21 + 1 + 81 = 185 sl sts) Fasten off.
Why the math works: 30 mesh rows ÷ 3 x 8 sc = 80 sc, plus 1 for Row 1, makes 81. At 4 sc per inch, 81 sc = 20.25 in (51.4 cm), which matches the side length through the taper. The 21 sc on the bottom match Row 1 exactly. The ch-1 corners turn the edge without adding sc to either side. The strap sides are left unbordered because they fold over the ring. The border adds about 0.22 in (0.6 cm) on each side, so the panel ends up about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide.
Final Blocking
- Soak the holder in cool water for 10 minutes.
- Gently press out the water. Don’t wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove extra moisture.
- Pin the panel flat at 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide and open each diamond with your fingers.
- Put a roll or a rolled towel in each pocket so it dries round.
- Let it dry for 24 hours, then hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each pocket has 15 mesh loops per round and 60 sc in each rim round
- All pockets are 5.1 in (13.0 cm) tall, within 0.25 in (0.6 cm)
- The gaps between pockets are an even 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
- The panel lies flat behind the pockets
- Each border side has 81 sc, and the bottom has 21 sc
- The strap is sewn securely and the ring doesn’t slip
- All ends are woven in for at least 2 in (5.1 cm)
Troubleshooting
- Diamonds look like stripes: Sl st to the center of the loop before each round or row, so every sc lands in the middle of a loop.
- Roll won’t fit: Your gauge is tight. Remake the pocket with a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook and keep all stitch counts the same.
- Panel edges are wavy: You have too many border stitches. Work 2 sc per mesh row more often.
- Rims flare: Work Rnd 21 with a hook one size smaller.
- Panel stretches long: The cotton may be too soft. Re-block it, and don’t overfill the pockets.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then lay flat to dry and reshape the pockets. Keep the wooden ring as dry as you can.

Final Notes
Each measurement leads to the next. A gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) makes a 60-stitch base 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across. That divides into 15 mesh loops for a 5.1 in (13.0 cm) pocket. The 21-stitch panel row gives 5 loops at 5.25 in (13.3 cm), and the border brings the panel to 5.75 in (14.6 cm). Three pockets and two gaps take up 16.3 in (41.4 cm), and the taper and strap finish the 21.5 in (54.6 cm) hanging length. Check each stage, and the holder will hang straight.
Happy crocheting!